1800.] Ox Hat Making. 225

of 3-inch plank,(plane-tree is beſt, or any ſuch cloſe graiñed wood) joined together, and tapering from where the men work down io the kettle, which is generally made of caſt lead, and but rarely now of caft iron; the cloſeſt grained wood is preferred, leſt the nap, which is then very eafily hurt, might be injured 5 and a caſt lead kettle in preference to an iron one, left the oil of vitriol(if uſed) ſhould injure the kettle. The baſoned hat is firſt dipped here, and that by degrees, before being completely plunged, leſt the air bubbles, in eſcaping from the folds of the hand, ſhould burft it; it is then allowed to ſoak, and to be well impregnated with the hot liquor, which is ſufficiently done in the time that two or three more are dipping. They now pro- ceed to work it by rolling or unrolling it, one corner of the felt after another, firſt with the hand, and then with a little wooden roller tapering from the middle to cach end, called a pz; taking care to dip the hat previous to each rolling, till at length by thus fulling and thickening for two or three hours, it is reduced. to the extent of the intended hat, as yet preſerving its flat-conical ſhape for thoſe hats on which fine goat?s hair or boiled cod wool (wool that comes of the lambs in the firſt month) is to be ap- plied. After the hat is boiled in the urine and water, and ready for the plank, a certain proportion from 12 to 3 ounces of either of the laſt materials are bowed and laid upon the body at the baſon 5 and then the work“ ats the plank is the ſame; there it is at firſt preſſed gently with one hand,‘and by degrees an increaſed-preſ- ſure is applied, cauſing by this means an agitation of the whole maſs, by which the covering introduces itſelf by that end. next the root, a certain depth into the felt, and is fixed by their ſpi- culæ, in ſuch a manner as not to be eaſily extrated. The hat being now got up to its ſize, and its conical ſhape ſtill preſerved, they proceed' to give it the proper form, which is done by ſhap- ing it with the fingers into the appearance of ſix or eight con- nected rings, each leſſening towards the centre, and then pulling the innermoſt one flat, which forms the top of the crown; it is then put upon a wooden block of the intended ſize of the crown or head of the hat,“ and, thus tying it down with a ſtrong cord, câlled 4 blocking cord, after which, with a piece of ¡ron or cop- per bent for that purpoſe, called a Zamper, they gradually beat down the cord all round till it has reached the’ botiom of the block, and what remains below is pulled flat for the brim. Hav- ing been ſo minute, it will be ſuflicient to work the operations cf tHe plaiter and ſtufi-maker. The bußneſs of plaiting, is laying beaver or hare’s-wool from the back, or both, mixed on to a wool body after it is got up to its ſize. The plaiter or rufer takes it, and after bowing and hardening the material, he has to lay on (and I muſt add, ſtealing a part of the beaver) which(to make it ſtick eaſier) is firſt mixed with the ſame weight of flax, it is

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