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INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
IN MAKING the Excursion in East KENT, mentioned in the Introductory Re- marks to the last District, I appropriated some days, to the examination of this cele- brated Islet;—every acre of which I pro- bably saw(except a small portion on the northern coast), and passed over the several parts, which distinguish its soils and culture. First, in my way, from Canterbury to Mar- gate; next, in making a circuit, through the Island, and ascending the higher grounds, in different places; afterwards, in crossing it,
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2 DISTRICT.
to Ramsgate; and, finally, in taking a view of the southeastern margin, and the Marshes, in my way to Sandwich.
These examinations were made, in the beginning of September. The harvest(in a very backward season) being then in its, height. I was, therefore, able to form a pretty accurate idea of its soils, and their. cultivation; excepting, so far, as relates to the minutiz of management, in putting in the spring crops.
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THE SITUATION of this District is peculiar. There can be little doubt of its having been, heretofore, in reality, what it is now denominated; the sea having, it is more than probable, flowed between it and the main land; and occupied, at high wa- ter, the space that is now filled, by the
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ISLE OF THANET. 3
Marshes, which connect it, on the east and
south, with.the rising grounds of East
Kent.
EXTENT. Considering its oval out- LINE, aS a circle, and estimating its mean diameter at eight miles, it contains, near fifty square miles of surface, or more than thirty thousand acres.
In ELEVATION, on the north and east sides, it is considerably above the sea; which washes it on these sides: and some rising grounds, in the interior of the Island, swell above the sea cliffs. Nevertheless, in ap- proaching it, from the west, the rise is so gradual, that its elevation appears much less, than it really is. Seen from the higher grounds of East Kent, it meets the eye, as a broad plain; or, at most, as(what it may with propriety be called), a gentle chalk- down swell.
The SURFACE is remarkably smooth, and unvaried; especially in the central and western parts.© The upper grounds shelve gently, as it were, beneath the Marshes; and rise, with an easy.ascent, to the central heights. The eastern parts are more broken and rugged; but, even there, the quantity Be
4 DISTRICT:
of surface, too steep or broken, to permit the plow, is inconsiderable: so that almost every acre of its surface may be said to be fit for the purposes of cultivation.
The CLIMATURE, of this small plot of country, is somewhat earlier, than that of the District of CANTERBURY; OWing, probably, to its lying out of the reach of the influence of the hills, that rise to the south of Canterbury; whese base is na- furally kept cool, by the moisture which is necessarily lodged beneath it*: an influence, which, from the cases under notice, appears to be greater, than that of the bleakest ex- posure. The Isle of Thanet is exposed, to every wind that blows: and those from the north and east are poured in upon it, im- mediately from the ocean.
The WATERS may be said to be those of the sea. To the south, the river Stower, in its passage from Canterbury to Sandwich, winds through the flat of Maxsh lands, on that side of the Islet: the area or body of which is, in a manner, free from surface
* See YORKSHIRE, Vol. I. Article CLIMATURE, on this subject.
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ISLE OF-FHANET. 5
Waters. The entire substructure being, in all probability, absorbent, the rain waters are drank up, where they fall.
The SOILS are, pretty universally, what come under the description of CALCAREOUS LOAMS; and are mostly of extraordinary depth, for soils of that nature. On the lower margins of the swells, and on some of the flatter parts of the area, they are from eighteen inchés to two feet deep. Even on the very summits, of the central and western heights, there is ten to fourteen inches of free culturable soil; and this incumbent on loose calcareous rubble! Taken together, it forms, by far, the, best soiled plot of chalk hill, this Island pos- sesses. On the uppermost stages, of some of the more broken heights, towards the northeastern margin, the soi is thinner, and more flinty. But I know no tract, of equal extent, with so large a proportion of good, and so inconsiderable a share of bad land; either on the Wolds of Yorkshire, or on the Downs of Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, Hampshire, Sussex, Surrey, or Kent.
The SUBSOIL, as® well as the entire SUBSTRUCTURE; is probably cHALK.
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6 DISTRICT.
The ROADS, in general, are good; and what renders them more agreeable, to the traveller, they are free.|
The TOWNSHIPS are numerous, and well distributed.
STATE OF INCLOSURE. In this, as in other respects, the Isle of Thanet re- sembles the Wolds of the northern, or the Chalk Downs of the southern provinces; and is, in reality, one of the latter. The whole country lies open; excepting the
immediate environs of villages. Those of
Birchington, Minster, and, St. Laurence have, perhaps, the greatest quantity of in- closed lands. The towns of Margate and Ramsgate may be said to lie open to the Downs. In one or more instances, here, as on the Wiltshire Downs, I observed the remains of neglected hedges!
The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of this favored spot, if we cut off the Marsh lands, which are mostly or wholly ina state of Grass, may be said to be ARABLE CROPS. Of perennial sHEEP WALK I find no notice, in my Journal, nor do I recollect observing a single instance; and of wooDLANDs, and HEDGE TIMBER, Nearly the same may be
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ISLE OF THANET. 4
said; except a few masses, or shaws, of the former; and except some hedgerow elms, in the neighbourhoods of St. Laurence and Minster; on rich deep soils, sheltered from the north.
This nakedness, conspiring with the na- tural tameness of surface, in giving a simi- larity of SCENERY, the Island, itself, is productive of no other beauty, than what other passages of bare chalky downs afford. But, as a PLACE OF VIEw, the Isle of Uhanet is capable of gratifying the liberal eye, ina superior manner.—From the southern decli- vities, the rich and beautiful rising grounds of East Kent are seen hanging, asa picture, before it. And the views northward, and to the west, are equally interesting. The Isle of Shepey—the} the coast of Es- sex, with the almost incessant throng of vessels, which in the busy sea roads to the Thames, are seen stealing upon the view, and passing away, as by a charm, into im- measurable space, furnish a broad, but de- lightful prospect. The eastern view is still more striking; as including, in its offscape, an‘object that few points of view, in this Island, can command,—-the Continent of Europe.
——=
AGRICUL U_Bab.
FARMS. In traversing the country, several capital farms are seen, detached from the villages; the buildings large, and the pieces extensive. But too many of the far- meries are gathered together, in villages, or hamlets; in the manner of other open arable districts."Towards the east end of the
Island, the farms appear to be smaller;.
and the lands to be frequently intermixed. FARM BUILDINGS. Dwet.ine HOUSES are mostly of bricks, or of flints, and covered with tiles. The Barns, com- monly, of weatherboarding,and thatch. On the larger farms, the barns are of extra- ordinary size; very wide, with a range of hovels or sheds, on either side; the same roof covering the whole; reaching from the ridge of the barn, to near the ground, as in West Kent. Some of these enormous buildings, when seen endway, or caught in, particular points of view, have the appear-
—
ISLE OF THANET. 9
ance of Egyptian pyramids, rather than of English barns.
Remarks.‘The excessive consumption _of straw, which these immense roots ne- cessarily incur, is doubtless a serious evil in a country, that is situated, beyond the reach of town manure. If, however, we recollect that the decayed thatch, as it is washed from the roofs, by heavy rains, is much of. it deposited in the yards, and, by this means, reaches the dunghill and the field, and that, the old thatch tinallyfollows it through the same path, the actual /oss, which the land eventually sustains, Is not great. Nevertheless, the temporary with- holding, of an immense quantity of vege- table matter, from the arable lands, is itself an evil; beside the actual waste of decayed thatch; which is hable to be carried away, by the currents of heavy rains, and to be
ww
blown, by the wind, into places, from which it never retufhs to the farm. The danger, which thatch roofs are peculiarly exposed to, with respect to fire, is another reason, why’ they should be discontinued. And,should this country continue to prosper, and improve, during the’ next century, as it has, during
*
10 3 AGRICULTURE.
the present, it is probable, that, long before its close, the practice of covering farm build- ings, with the materials of manure, will be wholly Jaid aside; not in this Islet, only, but in every culturable district of the Island at large.
BEASTS OF DRAFT. These are, in- variably, HORSES; of a heavy breed; but not of the heaviest. Some of them are in a good form, for the farmer’s use. Four of these costly, expensive animals are the PLOW TEAM;—on land which a north-coun- try farmer would plow, with two; and these, of little more than one third of the cost and expensiveness of the Thanet team: would work the lands of the Isle, at less than half the expence, that is bestowed upon them, in the present practice.
IMPLEMENTS. The heavy TURN- WREST PLOw is the only one in use; even on the flattened surfaces, and the gently sloping lands of the Isle of Thanet: and even in working the tallow grounds, for which this Island well deserves celebrity.
In susppLows,“shims” or“ broad- shares’°—for cleaning the surfaces of pulse grounds—* pea and bean grattans”—for
“66
ISLE OF THANET. rr
wheat, or spring crops, this Islet exceeds even West Kent; especially in the va- riety of construction. One, with a straight edge, four feet long, and of proportional strength, which was hung behind a pair of cart wheels, struck me the most. Surely, land in which such an implement, as this, can be worked, requires not four horses to plow it!*
OBJECTS OF HUSBANDRY. On the body of the Island, ARABLE CROPS, and SHEEP, with a due portion of swINE, are the leading objects of the Thanet husbandry. In the Marshes, many catile are seen; but, upon the arable farms, a few cows, teddered*
* On the thin chalky soils of East Kent, in the neighbourhood of Barham Downs, I observed instances of subplows, with shares on a construction, different from any I saw, either in the Isle of Thanet, or in the District of Maidstone. Instead of a straight blade, or shim, as in the Island; or a crescent, or broad share, as in Middle Kent; a large prong, with three or four broad flat tines(resembling those of the common po- tatoe fork, but perhaps four times as large) is drawn horizontally, with the points forward; thus making its way among the flints and chalk rubble, which, in a manner, constitute the cultured stratum of these lands,
better than a continued edge.
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12 AGRICULTURE.
on temporary ley grounds, are the only cattle observable,—in the autumnal season.
The arable crops are
Wheat, barley, oats;
Beans, peas, tares, turneps;° Sainfoin, lucern, clover,&c. Canary seed, radish seed,&c.*
The COURSE OF PRACTICE. No- thing which arose to the eye, in travelling over the arable lands under view, nor any information I gained respecting them, dis- covered what is sometimes called a regular system of busbandry. Indeed, where sain- foin is a common crop, and where a variety of garden crops are grown, there is the less opportunity of adhering rigidly to a fixed routine of crops.
But although there may be no regular succession of crops, in the Thanet hus- bandry, there is a PRINCIPLE OF MANAGE- MENT, evidently observed, here, whicli is much wanted, in the central parts of the county; and, more or less, in almost every district of the kingdom; namely, that of
* There are no Hors cultivated, in the Island;
_ though much of its soil appears to be well adapted to
their culture.
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W exal quar peat been crop med TUM rov MEI
ISLE OF THANET. 13
cleaning the land, for spring corn and ley grasses, rather than for wheat; a prin- ciple which cannot be too frequently, or too strongly urged; as the superiority of MODERN HUSBANDRY, over the old com- mon field practice, hinges almost wholly upon it.
What struck me most unexpectedly, in examining the Thanet practice, was the quantity of FALLOws, that everywhere ap- peared. In part, pulse grounds, that had been plowed between the rows, while the crops were growing, and afterwards shim- med, or underplowed,to rid the surface from running weeds, that had got footing in the rows. But many, or most, of them sumM- MER FALLOWS.
On expressing my surprise, at so unex- pected a sight, in the Isle of Thanet, I was told, by an intelligent farmer, who was attending to his avvest work, that “< jand must Sate a holiday,’—and that ‘it is alwe ays better to be a year too soon, «‘ than too late, with your summer tilth:” supporting his assertion, by shewing me a piece of stubble, the intended crop of which had been dri/led, on land that ought
14 AGRICULTURE. to have been fallowed. The consequence_ was a crop of weeds, rather than of corn: val the surface of the ground being carpeted 7 with hog weed; polygonum aviculare. Pe
TILLAGE. The summer Fattow, Le HORSE-HOED PULSE-CRops, and the TURNE? iad FALLOW, are the means whereby many of the W the lands of the Isle of Thanet are kept in probi a high state of cultivation.— In the autumn fame of 1795, though the season was backward,| SI the fallows, in general, were beautifully ment clean. And many of the stubbles, as well celeb as the clover and turnep grounds, showed throu the soil to be in a state of cleanness and tion, tilth: while some stubbles, and crops then’ than uncut, especially those of wheat, were foul, that, and the land out of tilth, to a degree, that| oats would disgrace any district. And,
SODBURNING appears to be in much use, rows, and good estimation; especially on sainfoin of he leys, previously to their being broken up;{rows whether for wheat, oats, or other crop. oes the the Art. SAINFoIN.| plow
REMARK. This is one of the purposes to| Has, which sodburning is peculiarly applicable. tsen
MANURES. ake principal extraneous t0 be manure, that I perceived to bein common. the in
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50 H O.f)S.
The prevailing Torsoit, on both sides of the Valley, isthe same: arich strong loam: resembling the coomb of West Kent. The UNDERSOIL, on one side, is chalk or chalky rubble, on the other, flinty gravel, in some places of great depth: the sussrRUCTURE, of the one, is calcareous strata, of varied composition; of the other, sand rock: a a substratum common to the sandy wastes of Hampshire and Sussex.
But hops, here, as in the neighbourhood of Maidstone, are, grown on soils of diffe- rent qualities: in the upper parts of the Valley, the ordinary top soil is a much lighter loam, than prevails about Farnham; and, at the lower extremity, they are ex- tended over the margin of the sandy wastes; on lands not worth, for any purpose of hus- bandry, five shillings an acre. This, how- ever, is merely in pursuance of an established practice,—is only falling in with the fashion of the place,—and probably does not repay the contingent expences.
In the neighbourhood of Odiam, I ob- served some flourishing plantations of hops; and wherever there is a rich deep loam, on a loose calcareous base—wherever sainfoin is observed to flourish and endure, there it is
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VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 5X
more than probable, hops may be planted with safety and profit.
SPECIES. There is, I believe, only one variety in cultivation, here; which is known by the name of the FaRNHAM HopP.
PLANTING. In 1791, the plantations of Farnham were increasing; the passion for hop grounds having, then, risen to a degree of rage.
The PREPARATION OF THE SOIL, until late- ly, I understand, has been that of« trench- ing, or double digging. Now; pits are grow- ing into use! owing, I was informed, to a
_ mere incident of practice, in which they
happened to succeed; and, being less ex- pensive than double digging the entire soil, this incident may possibly give a turn to the practice;—whether a good or a bad one, a few years experience will probably show.
In the pisposition and pisTANcE of the hills, the practice appears to have varied, and to be still varying. In the very old grounds, in the immediate environs of Farn- ham, whose origin, I understood, is not now to be traced, the hills stand irregu- larly; not in straight lines! In grounds
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52 HOPS.
of a middle age, they are in rows, with wide intervals, one way(as seven or eight feet) and with the hills, three and a half to four feet apart, in the rows. In one instance, i observed them, nine feet by three. At pre- sent, six feet, square, appears to be the prevailing distance.
The skreens of hop grounds, here, as in Kent, are trained thorn hedges; where the lands are 1NcLosED. Ina few instances, I observed lime trees planted, in close rows, and trained for this purpose.
But, the grounds of FaRNHAM are ina state of OPEN‘ FIELD”’—having doubtless been a common corn field; the pieces being distinguished by narrow lines of grass.
However, in 1791, several young hedges were training; for the intention of* break- ing off the blights;” which are understood to come in the form of mist, or flying clouds, scudding over the surface of the ground; and, it is thought, that tall skreens assist in checking their career, or in breaking their force; so as to lessen, at least, their mis- chiefs, as far as the shelter of the skreen extends.|.
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VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 53
CULTURE OF GROWN HOPS. The outline, with respect to the solL, is this: manure, in autumn: dig the intervals, a
, full depth, in winter: open the hills, and hoe the intervals, early in the spring: break
them up, a few inches deep(in the manner
that will be described) about the beginning
of June: round up the hills, at Midsummer:
and give the whole a superficial hoing, be-
fore corn harvest sets in. Remark. It may here be observed, and
is an interesting fact, in the history of the
hop culture in this Island, that the practice
of FARNHAM, and that of MAIDSTONE, are, in many respects, so very different, as to leave no doubt, on the mind, of their having
had DIFFERENT ORIGINS; or of each having
groped out its own way; the central parts
of Sussex forming the division between the two practices. In West Sussex, about Pet- worth, where hops are in cultivation, the
Farnham practice prevails: while, on the eastern side of the county,about Cranbrook,
the practice of Maidstone is followed.
In the westeri practice, now under'view, there are nO IMPLEMENTS in use; no shims, subplows, or harrows, drawn by HoRSEs;
a
54 HOPS.
the whole being performed by MANUAL LA- BOUR;* and, in performing this, many of the tools, in use, are so perfectly different, in shape and operation, as to show them, de- monstrably, to have been separate inven- tions. The soils,—if we take the coomb of Maidstone, and the strong loam of Farn- ‘ham field,—on which, it is more than pro- bable, the two practices were first intro- duced,—are very similar.. Perhaps, that of Farnham is somewhat more stubborn; and the tools, there in use, are best calculated for such a soil. But they.also are used, on the lighter lands. There is scarcely any trace of the two districts having copied from each other; except, in digging the inter- vals, with three pronged forks, instead of spades; a practice which is common to both.
* TI was told, that team labor has been tried; but that‘¢it would not do.” It may therefore be admitted, that either the soils of this district, or their cultivators, are of too stubborn a nature to admit of the practice: perhaps, the former. If, however, the intervals, or <‘ allies,”‘were to be laid up, in dry beds, before win- ter, there can be little doubt of their being, thereby, rendered mellow enough, to be worked with team im- plements, the ensuing spring and summer.
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 55
The MANURE of this District is pune; which is purchased, at an extravagant price, ‘a guinea a load’’! fetching it out of the country, on every side, where it is to be procured: thus impoverishing the whole neighbourhood. Woolen rags are not much in use, here, as in Kent; but wool(the dirty locks, or trimming,&c. of sheep) is used. These differences of practice arise out of situation: woolen rags are conveyed to Maidstone, by water, at an easy expence; and wool locks are the produce of the
Downs, in the immediate neighbourhood of Farnham.
In DRESSING,(namely, opening the hills and cutting off the old vines), the only variation, which appeared, was that of the crowns of the roots being more ge- nerally left bare, in the Farnham, than in the Kentish practice; under the idea—as I was told by an intelligent hop-ground man —that“the sun draws them out the better,” when they are exposed, than when they are covered with mold. This, however, may be amere popular idea. The fact is probably of more importance, than the reason given for the practice.
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56 H'O Ff 5S.
POLES, here, are chiefly of ash;(but some of alder, sallow, and fir!) culled from the neighbouring woods, and plantations. The price, in 1791, was about a guinea and a half, a hundred, in the wood.
A method of pitinc the poles, in winter, differs from that of Kent; though part of them are set up, in the Kentish manner. In the Farnham practice, they are laid along the ground, horizontally, and formed into triangular piles. To preserve the form of the pile, and prevent them from rolling down, four poles are entered into the ground; namely, two near each end of the pile. These cross each other, at the upper angle of the pile; and are kept in their places, firmly against the sides of the piles, by a fifth pole, thrown in between them. They are less trouble, and less dangerous, than the conical piles of Kent; but seem to be much less calculated to preserve the poles.
In POLING, there is a notable variation from the practice of Kent. The NuMBER in ordinary cases, is two poles to a hill:* and these are DISPOSED, in a_ peculiar
* But see the operations of tying, and shifting poles.
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 57
‘manner; especially where the hills are in thickset rows, with wide intervals. In this case, the disposition is changed, alternately, in the rows. The poles of one hill is set mn the line of the row, and of the next across it; the poles, in the latter case, standing about eight inches from the line,@nd one on either side of it: the ordinary pIsTANCE between the poles being fifteen to eighteen inches, at the bottom: spreading to three er four feet, at the top; the back of the pole being usually placed inward, as in Kent.
The time of poling depends on the emersion or shooting of the vines. In 14791, the pointing, and distributing of the poles in the intervals, the first by men, the latter by women and boys, were going on, in the first week of April; the young shoots, at that time, just beginning to make their appearance. On the 8th of April, some few poles were setting up, on the south side of the Valley, which is somewhat forwarder than the north side; notwithsianding the aspect; gravel, perhaps, being a more ab- sorbent, warmer subsoil, than chalk. On the tenth of May the poles were mostly
58 HOPS.
up; but not wholly: the majority of the plants, then being two or three feet high; some much higher.
The METHOD OF POLING is this: a hole being sunk, of a size, and in a direction suitable to the foot of the. given pole, and about twelve inches below the crown of the root(or fifteen below the level of the in- tervals) with an iron crow, or bar, and the workman. having adjusted the pole, in his hands, so as to make the top spread pro- perly outward, it is punched down, with a single effort. If it do not stand in the true position(a circumstance which seldom hap- pens to an expert workman) it is forced, by hand, until its top be brought into its pro- per situation; when the ground is trodden hard to its root, with the heel. But alter- ing the first position deprives a pole of much of its firmness, and ought to be avoid- ed, as much as possible.;
Tyinc. In 1791, this work commenced, about the beginning of May.
The ninth of May, the grounds might be said to swarm with women and girls, at this work: who, with the men employed in sharpening poles, poling, and hoing or
the
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VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 59
“ becking” the intervals, formed a busy in- teresting scene. While the country, viewed from a distance, had a striking appearance: the whole Valley wearing, at that season, the winterly garb of naked leafless coppice grounds.
The numser or vines, that are usually trained to a pole, in the Farnham practice, are three. Hence, at six feet square, or twelve hundred hills to the acre, and two poles to each hill, the usual number of vines, to an‘acre, are seven thousand two hundred: so that, notwithstanding the hills are placed at shorter distances, here, than in the District or Maipstong, the num- ber of vines, trained, are much fewer. In the plantations of a middle age, in which eight feet, by three feet and a half, are the common distances, or about fifteen hundred and fifty, to the acre, the numbers are nearly the same, as in West Kent: namely, nine to ten thousand vines, to the acre._
In the cuoice or vines, to be trained, much may depend. In the early part of the season, the strongest and cleanest vines are made choice of. But later, when the
60 H OP S$.
vines have run away from the tyers, the forward“ branchy” vines, as well as those that are slender and weak, are rejected, for those which are clean and of a middle growth; namely, about two feet long.
Remark: The reason.seems obvious: the strong branchy vines are difficult to train; and, have probably acquired a pro~ cumbent habit; their natural tendency to climbing being checked, by not having it ex- ercised in the first instance: and the lateral branches weaken, of course, the strength of the leader. Had these forward vines been trained to the poles, at a proper age, the branches, if sent out at all, would doubtless have been, in respect to the leader, com- paratively weak.
In a case, in which there are two vines, of equal growth and strength, and of a pro- per age for training, it may be a moot point, which to cheose. If strong, rather than jall vines, are the best able to withstand the attacks of enemies, and bear a crop with the most certainty, that which is inclined to throw out side shoots, and thereby strength- en the lower part of the stem, becomes the
—— eS een rr
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 6:
proper object of choice. A medium, in this, as in host other disputable matters, is pro- bably the best.
The gpANDs or TIES made use of, here, are rushes(of the species juncus effusus). They are cut about Midsummer; made, or dried, as Hay; and put up, ina sort of mow, under cover, until the tying season, the ensuing Spring; when they are tough, and well adapted to the purpose.
In tTyINc, the workwoman kneels, on ene or both knees, upon the side of the hill; having a bundle of rushes hanging before her, in a sort of bag apron; which, as she kneels, nearly touches, or rests upon the ground. Three bines being selected, and brought to the pole, a rush is put round them, a foot or more from the ground; and, their upper parts being wound, some- what spirally, but with an easy curvature, upon the pole, and with the sun, another rush band is tied, about a foot above the first; more or less, according to the length of the vine in training, and the distance it rises from the pole.
If, at the time of tying, the root be found very strong, and has thrown out a super-
Det
a rrr nti ie
SSS Ee eS NN I eet
62 H'O PS. abundance of vines, eligible to be trained,: a third pole is set up; and, in this case, if nine bines are trained. it On the gist May, the tying was nearly over; the workwomen being then chiefly i employed, in adjusting, and retying the loose df bines, that had been torn from the poles by ml the wind; the vines being; then, about six feet high. ant SHIFTING POLES. This is a tedious 3
and disagreeable part of the hop culture; va andrequires great judgment and experience, Mi to do it with good effect. The operation the is that of removing a weak undersized pole,, overloaded, or likely, from the strength of thi the hill on which it stands, to be overloaded, olf with bine, to a weaker hill, which has a as, strong pole; thus reversing the situations, and and offices, of the two poles. In perform- too ing this operation, the ties are broken, and and the bines laid down, until the poles are int
a changed; when the vines are wound upon to
4 i the fresh poles(not‘very dexterously per- ij tg
im| haps) and tied again, with fresh rushes.| Ti
if. If, at this season of the year, and during a8 a
i‘ the adjustment of the poles, a hill is per- W
aa ceived to be so strong, as to be in danger ary
| Re
i
Wi
ie
ee ee ee
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 6
of overloading two well sized poles, a third pole is set up, and one vine taken from each of the other poles, and transferred to this. In a,year of heavy bine, this appears to be a necessary work. Overloaded poles, broken off by the wind, are not only a loss in them- selves, but are liable to injure others in their fal).
* SPARE VINES. These are left, at the time of tying, to run wild over the inter- vals; and remain at the roots, until about Midsummer; when they are taken off, and the hills rounded up.
REMARKS. The reasons assigned, for this practice, are, that. if they were taken off earlier, they would shoot again; where- as, by letting them spend their strength, and then taking them off and burying the roots deeply with soil, they are subdued: and another, that they help to shade the intervals, before the trained vines are able to do it; and thus tend to keep the ground moist. Suckers, too, are sometimes seen rising, in the intervals; and are considered as assisting in the same intention.|
Whether the abovereasonshaveany weight, or whether they are the true ones for the
64 HOPS:
practice of this District, 1 will not attempt Hol to say. But it appears to me, as being du much more reasonable, that no stated time car should be observed, with respect to the cut- it, ting off these spare vines; but that the pe- nm riod of their growth ought to be regulated,
of OI
by the season, and by the strength and .. i luxuriance; not of the crop in general, but of t
of individual hills; retaining them as regu- rail lators to the growth of the trained vines. cul In a forcing season, let them grow at tel will, to check, as much as in the nature of Pe les their growth they are able to check, the too| In great luxuriance of the crop. On the con- nea trary, in a backward season, check or re~ wh move them; in order to throw up additional fol vigor, into the rising vines.*
« BECKING.” This operation is pecu- hat liar to the department of hop grounds, now ly. under notice. The tool, with which it is on performed, is of a singular construction. th: Jt resembles, in its general form, the mat- cie tock: one end of the head, or iron work;! being an adze, or small strong hoe; the lor other, a fork, or dung-drag; differing, in
Ove
* For fuller remarks, on this head, see the DisTRICT or MAIDSTONE.| val
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 65
wothing, from the ordinary tool with which dung.is usually drawn out of the tail of the cart; except that the tines are somewhat flat, orbroad; as those of the dung drag sometimes are, and ever should be.
he intention and use of the prc is that of breaking the surface of stubborn ground, erg that which has been run together, with rain, and baked by the sun, as well as of cutting, or tearing up, the weeds of the in- tervals. If the tines, or fork end, do not tear up aclod or a weed, the hack is applied. In using it, the workman appears to strike, nearly horizontally; but, in reality, some- what dipping; loosening the soil, three or four inches deep.
The grounds of this department seldom having the summer digging, which is usual- ly given in Kent,(though I observed it in one instance) a more effective instrument, than the hoe, is requisite, to break, suffi- ciently, the surface of strong land.
The usual time of performing this opera- tion is the beginning of June.
The beck is useful, not only in chopping over and loosening the surface of the inter-
vals, in summer; but in opening the hills, VOU. Te
66 HO P.5.
in the spring; being a powerful and effec- tive tool, for this purpose. I have also seen it used, in hacking over the intervals of beans; and, in adry season, it is valuable, in this intention. a
HOING. This operation is usually ap- plied, to cut off the early spring weeds. In an instance, in which it had been omitted, the winter weed, chickweed, groundsel,&c. &c. had evidently seeded, before the time of becking; and the seeds were, of course, let into the soil, by the latter operation. It is usual to apply the hoe, again, between the becking and the harvesting, to prevent the second crop of weeds from seeding.
The weeps of the hop grounds of Farn- ham, the gth May, 1791, were
Winterweed—veronica bederifolia.
Groundsel—senecio vulgaris.
Chick weed—alsine media.
Shepherd's purse—ihlaspi bursa-pastoris.
Fumitory—fumaria officinalis. Dwarf poe—poa annua. Charlock—sinapis arvensis. Cudweed—gnaphalium luteo-album. Dwarf nettle—lamium purpureum. Cleavers—galium aparine.
¢ 2
rls,
——— pre: 5 ee Ne A A TN I NA TN Sa
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 67
Goose foot—chenopodium. Convolvulus—convolvulus arvensis.
vq...[he noes in use, here, vary with the in-
‘téfition, and: the state of the soil. For merely cutting over the intervals, of loose iree soil, a common plain hoe is used; but, where the ground is stubborn, or baked with drought, a three-tined hoe is made use of! The tines flat, as those of the beck: a tool that might frequently be used, with good effect, in the intervals of beans, in a dry season. But, for scraping the surface of the intervals, and rounding up the hills, avery large plain boe—a sharp mud-scraper —is in use; answering the same purpose as the shovel, in the Kentish practice. I have likewise seen this uncouth, but efficient tool used, in cutting over the surface, in the spring, and early summer months. PICKING. The season oF picxine, here, is earlier, even than in the Maidstone District: not, however, from this District being the forwardest, in regard to clima- ture; but because hops are here gathered, in an earlier state of ripeness, than they are in Kent. At the close of the picking, in 1791,0n the 18th September, the hops were F 2
68 HiOuPS:
barely in full condition; had but just ac- quired those CRITERIA OF RIPENESS, which, at Maidstone, are the signal for beginning. What are here termed‘fine hops,’ would in Kent be called“ green hops;” and, if bitterness be the most desireable quality, the“ fine samples” of Farnham are, in reality, no other than hops, gathered, under ripe.
The apparATus of picking is the bin; but different, in construction, from that of West Kent; and smaller: the modern bin being of a specific size, like the basket of Canter- bury; each bag, or bin cloth holding seven bushels. The bag is hung, on studs, set on the inside of a square frame of wood; the two ends of the frame rising somewhat above the bag, to receive the poles; which are here laid, horizontally, upon the ends of the bin; not made to lean against a ridge pole, or horse, as in the Kentish practice.
The worKPEOPLE are, here, much more numerous, in proportion to the quantity of work to be done, than in the Maidstone quarter. The picking is more tedious; and the season of picking js shorter.‘ Fine hops” bear the best price; and every pru-
SE ees a
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 69
dent manager is anxious to make the most of his crop; and, of course, to reap it, while’
*-it is ripening. Wence, in a favorable season,
the principal part of the picking is done, in ten days, or a fortnight. In 1791, the picking commenced on Saturday, the third
of September, and the« sorting’ closed on Wednesday the.fourteenth; the hops then becoming too high coleeens for the pur- chasers of fine hops.
The workpeople are chiefly collected, from the towns of Surrey and Hampshire;: the town of Portsmouth inclusive.
They are divided into pickers and“ pole pullers,’ and formed into sets, as in Kent; and as the nature of the business indispen- sably requires.
In CUTTING THE VINES, and DRAWING THE POLES, the practices of the two districts are similar; except that the vines are here cut higher than in Kent; owing, doubtless, to their being cut, in an earlier state of ripe- ness, and are therefore more liable to bleed, than the vines of riper hops. See Vol. I. p-. 238, on this subject.
Picxinc. he pullers having laid the loaded poles, along the ground, in heaps,
eee Ge
os
‘
v4
70 H OP S.
by the sides of the bins, the pickers lift them, one by one, to the frames, each of which has two pickers; one standing on either side. They begin to pick at the bottom of the pole,* moving it endway as it is picked; and, having finished it, throw it on a pile; in which the unstript poles re- main, until the picking is over.©
Another part of this operation, that marks the practice of this District, still more strong- ly, is that of sorting the hops, as they are picked; particularly in the early part of a favorable season; and,always; when picking «fine hops.” The bin cloth receives the first, or best sort; a basket, which stands by thé side of the frame, the“ seconds;” and frequently a third receptacle is pro- vided, for the‘* brown hops:’’ and some- times a fourth, for the« fliers.”
Beside, the picking is done more accu~
rately, here, than in Kent. The practice of“ sorting” leads to the habit of pick-
* Whereas, in Kent, it is the invariable practice, to begin at the fap.
+ When, I understand, they are universally burnt; and their ashes wasted! Even where dfing is“‘ a guinea a load’’!!
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 7
ing the hops, singly. Even, at the close of the season, when they are picked“ all to- gether,” they are mostly picked, singly; and not stript off the stalks, as in the Kentish practice. Hence, the Farnham hops have fewer leaves in them, than the Kentish hops; even the few that are accidentally torn off, are picked out of the bins.:
Yet the pricEs given for PICKING, are not much higher, here, than in Kent. The ordi- nary price is three halfpence, a bushel; or eight forashilling. In 1791, the crop being under par, two pence a bushel was given, towards the close of the season, with beer: namely, a quart of small beer to each of the pickers; with ale to the pole pullers.
The MEASURING, or rather estimation, is done, in a summary way. Nothing is mea- sured, unless the picker remonstrate against the estimation; which is made by the eye and experience of the steward. Where the ordinary bins, of seven bushels, are in use, the estimate is the less vague, than where bins, of irregular form, and indeterminate size are the receptacles. In proof, how- ever, of the expeditiousness, at least, of this
' it i { t
Tee et ee he z
BOR Toray Pee, ee en eo. =<
72 H.O'P.S.
mode of ascertaining the value of the work~ manship,* I-attended a hop planter(who acted as his own steward,) through one of his“measurings,” where upwards of fifty pickers were employed; and there was only one exception to his estimate.
This mode of valuing the labor saves much time; and is perhaps, on the whole, suffi- ciently accurate; the parties giving and taking, as differences of opinion“arise; and by measuring, occasionally, the judgments of both of them are regulated.
The pickers’ accounts are kept, at pre- sent, is a somewhat complex manner. To- kens of copper, Sine a from one to ten, are given; the number or numbers(if more than one piece is given) corresponding with the number of bushels. At stated times, as every two or three days, these tokens are called in; and, for every twenty bushels, they amount to, a notch is cut on a tally, similar to that of Kent.
‘It is probable that keeping the accounts, by means of tokens, was the original me- thod of Farnham; giving money for the tokens, whenever they are called in; and
Ria rare era aa aes wee
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 73
that the tallies have been copied from Kent, in order to throw the whole season into one account, or general payment.
This being as it may, scoring, for every twenty bushels picked, is far less eligible, than for every shilling earned; as being less ob- vious, and intelligible, to illiterate work- people; requiring a sort of calculation, at the end of the season, to which many of them are rrot competent.
The FINISHING FROLICKS, here, exceed even those of Kent. The pole puller has not a handkerchief, only, but also a shirt (that is, a piece of linen cloth to make him one) given him by the pickers. This is worn, sash-wise, and is ornamented with ribbons. The women, likewise, decorate themselves, with such handkerchiefs, rib- bons, and finery, as they purchase at the shops, to carry home with them. Some of the companies parading the streets of Farn- ham;—perhaps witha fiddler at their head, —singing and shouting, in tones of true licentiousness; the evening being usually closed, by a dance; and always with co- pious libations,—doubtless, to the goddess of hops.
94.: 2 HO RAS
**See Vol. I. p. 261. . ea}
The itinerants, who live at a distance,] are(by agreement) sent home in waggons; ne | forty or fifty, perhaps, in each; with 4 a : fiddler in the midst of them; and with their be if various colors flying. Altogether, a sort of a: if glee and merriment, which, in these deco- the | rous times, is rarely met with; and whether peti ay it be right or wrong, let moralists deter- ef iy mine. for 1 4 fi 38 DRYING. The ordinary KILN, of this 3 1| District, resembles the stove kiln of Kent:* sp | 3—namely, a hollow cube, with one, two, or cel aay three“ holes,’ mouths, or fire-places, in dr an one side of it; the only FUEL, here, being par tb charcoal. No sea coals nor even coke; and bel i ia little, if any, sulphur is used: green, rather ile 4 than yellow, being, here, the desired color: Ur | a“ primrose color,” however, is spoken of Me with some degree of respect. rip : In the neighbourhood of Farnham, there ad || is an extraordinary pile of building, erected st vk for the purpose of manufacturing hops. It al | j( is planned and executed with great judg- W i" ment; and is worthy of the‘attention of an ':- those, who are about. to erect buildings, of ry | oa) this intention.- an ail
Se a
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 75
’ The part that struck me, as being the most estimable, in the coNsTRUCTION of the xiLNns(though differing in other respects from the ordinary form) is that of their being furnished with Two FLooRs, one above the other; with a space of five or six feet between them; so as to give room, for the effluvia of the lower floors, to escape; and for men to work upon them.
In pryiNG, the fresh-picked hops are spread upon the upper floor; and, by re- ceiving the heat which escapes through the drier hops, on the lower one, there lose a part of their moisture; and, when those below are removed, these, on the chamber floor, are let down, through a trap door, upon the immediate floor of the kiln.
This, for hops that are gathered under ripe, as those of Farnham mostly are, is an admirable expedient; and is not, I under- stand, peculiar to the suite of hop kilns, above noticed. In any place, such a plan would be found most eligible, and pay amply, during the early part of the picking season; as well as during moist weather;-in any part of the season. See Vol. I. p..264,
PACKING. The whole of the produce, of Farnham, is put into POCKETS; which are
“6,© 2S.
marked, or rather decorated, with stamped devices, that are altered every year; in order to distinguish the produce of Farnham, from the vulgar growths of the rest of the king- dom; the Farnham planters entering into a bond, not to send any other hops, than those of Farnham, in packages bearing these de- vices.
The MARKET, for Farnham hops, is chiefly the fair of WEYHILL; to which they are carried, by land, between thirty and forty miles! And those which are bought, there, by the London dealers, are carried from thence, back to London, near seventy miles!
This practice, however, is the more re-~ concileable to common sense, when it is known, that the Farnham waggons load back, with cheeses; and that a considerable part of the hops, of this growth, go for- ward, into the West of England, by the waggons, which brought the cheeses to Weyhill.
Another condition of the bond, entered into by the Farnham planters, is not to carry: any hops, into WEYHILL Fair(acci- dents excepted) after twelve o'clock, on old Michaelmas day. Formerly, the hop fair
VALLEY OF FARNHAM. a4
lasted a week, or more: now, under this regulation, only a few days.
GENERAL REMARKS on the FARN- HAM.PRAC TICE,
The first and greatest evil, that reflection aptly suggests, is the waste of land, labor, and manure, that is incurred, by this mode of practice. The crop is not only small, but the quality is weak. Half a ton, an acre, is esteemed as full a crop of“ fine hops,” as five or six bags are, in the Kent- ish practice. In 1791, the crop somewhat below par, six hundredweights were con- sidered as about the medium produce of Farnham: and judging from the« fine samples,” that were shown me, the quan- tity of bitter and aroma, contained in these, could not be estimated at more than one half of what is contained, in a well matured, full-ripe sample, of Kentish hops, or of such fully matured hops, as I saw picking, at Farnham, in the wane of the season: after the sorting, for fine hops, had closed. Estimating the quantities of bitter and flavor by the ordinary tests of the handle and the
78 Es HOPS.
smell, many of the finer leaves of the Maid- stone plantations appear to contain, as much « condition,” as the fine bops of Farnham. And we may safely say, that, ina NATIONAL LIGHT, the practice of Farnham is wrong; as incurring a great waste of the three most valuable things, any country possesses: namely, LAND, MANURE, and LABOR.
Nevertheless, it appears to be the interest, and of course the best policy, of the PROPRIE~ rors of these lands, as well as of the PLAN- TERS, to pursue the practice; no matter how absurd it may be, in itself, or mis- chievous to the interest of the country. The RENTS of the Farnham HOP GROUNDS, and the prices of Farnham Hops, are excessive; —much higher, than they are in Kent.
In 1791, ten pounds, an acre, was not considered as an extravagant price, for grounds of a good growth; twelve or thir- teen pounds were said to be given, by men who make a distinct business of the hop culture; who hire grounds, and work them themselves, or*with assistance. A gentle- man, near Farnhanr(who erected the ex- cellent drying house aforementioned) is said to have advanced his estate, manifold, by
fa
VALLEY.OF FARNHAM. 79
planting hops; keeping them in hand, un- til they have reached their full growth; and then letting them out, in small lots, at the extravagant prices mentioned above. And, with respect to the prices of the hops,—the fine samples of Farnham, frequently, fetch twice the price ef Kentish hops, that con- tain twice the quantity of bitter and aroma.
It will doubtless be said, by the Farnham planters, and the advocates for Farnham hops, that their flavor and color are finer, than those of any other growth. That they are weaker will readily be admitted; and may not their weakness be mistaken for delicacy? I am not, however, sufficiently versed in the art of brewing, to say, that one fourth of the quantity of full ripe, high conditioned, well harvested hops, are equal to four times the quantity of the fine hops of Farnham.
They have, certainly, one very powerful recommendation. They are dear; bear the best price; are ever at the top of the mar- ket. And although this may not always be a sufficient recommendation to gentle- men(by whom, I understand the Farnham
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hops are chiefly consumed) it doubtless has its weight with their butlers.
Upon the whole, however, if through the name of Farnham hops, such a liquor can be produced, as will render malt liquor fashionable, and thereby lessen the present inordinate import of foreign fruit liquors, it will be of less concern to the public, whe~ ther their estimated merits, in producing it, be real or imaginary.
rg
e 2=——EE—S—EESES
THE HEATHS
SeU RR E*Y,&e.
THE KNOWLEDGE, which I have of these barren lands, has arisen in crossing them, in various directions; as, by the great western road, between Staines and Bassing= stoke: by the road, between Bagshot and Farnham; by passing, between Farnham and Petworth, by three different routes; and in going from Petworth to Petersfield. The northern extremity, and the part about Woking, towards Weybridge, f am the least acquainted with.:
The SITUATION of this wide spread waste is in the four counties of Berks, Hants, Surrey, and: Sussex; but chiefly in the two
VOL._FE G
SS TE ae
i$2 HEATHS OF SURREY.| 1 MS latter; and the major part of it in Surrey;| i}| forming a broad blank margin, on the west- Be, fia | ern side of the county. tion !| The EXTENT would be difficult to Sun || ascertain, without actual measurement; the bare 4| outline being extremely irregular. It reaches. shoc ih; from Ascot Heath, in Berkshire, to Bexley into LHe= Heath in Sussex, a distance of, about thirty hov ! He! miles; without any interruption 5 except Hi : a a few inconsiderable slips of cultivated lands, ley 4 that run up into its area; accompany ing the j q H the brooks and rivulets, that have their rise T | within it. These, and other plots of in- tral Hi y closed lands, that indent it, on every side, let Ay render the width altogether uncertain. If mo at| we call the medial width five or six miles, ai v| we shall, I believe, come near enough the ae i PY truth, to give a general idea of the extent; ti || so as. to answer the present purpose. Six afl | miles, I apprehend, is too much for the me- hil ok dial width of death; as it would probably- is include some of those shreds of cultivation, imp above spoken of. I will, therefore, set is down the width of heath, at five miles, and Hes thus estimate the whole, at one hundred lee and fifty square miles; or a hundred thou- Pes
sand acres.‘|
HEATHS‘OF SURREY. 83
The ELEVATION of this tract is ye- . markably small, for lands of this descrip- tion. The principal part of the Heaths of Surrey lie on almost a dead flat; and this barely high enough above the Thames, to shoot the waters, which escape from them, into that river. The southern: extremity, however, rises to a considerable height. Hind Head, in Surrey, Black Down and Bex- ley Hill, in Sussex, are high lands; though they have no claim, as mountains,
The SURFACE is of various casts: the cen- tral parts, as has been said, are mostly flat: the northern and western quarters rise with more billowy surfaces; while, in the south- ern, the surface is broken, in a singular and striking manner. East Devonshire scarcely exceeds it, in the variety and irregularity
41 of its surface: smooth-toped, steep-sided } hills, of every shape; divided by winding irregular vallies; some of them of a strong improveable soil, if there were roads to carry- , away the produce. At present, the Heathy { Heights of Sussex are’as difficult of access, as the mountains of_Merionethshire, or (! Perthshire. ere G 2. a.
_—
mma a—“3= ra Aaa lie i at ih RSS% ae
a SS a ORR ae
84. HEATHS OF SURREY.
The SOIL, of the whole of these heathy wastes, that I have particularly attended to, is a barren sand, or gravel; ehcrusted with the black earth of heaths, of a dry crumbly quality; and,-in general, very thin; the soil, altogether, being. of the very worst quality; especially, on the.low flat-lying lands; where it is inferior, even to that of the Yorkshire Moreland; and much in- ferior to the heaths of the Highlands of Scotland.
The present PRODUCE, if it deserves the name, is a sort of dwarfish, stunted heath; in many places unable to hide the sand, on which it may be said to starve. The flat, between Farnham and Godalmin, is, almost literally, a barren waste, a sandy desert.--Some of the hills, however, haveta stronger heath; and, upon Hind Head, a
singular sort of brushwood issues from one
of the vallies, or dingles, on its side, and
"spreads over part of the hill. It is mostly
composed of shrubby wide-spreading oaks; though not more, pethaps, than four or five feet high; being cut off with the winds, as with an edge tool,, I have, since going
HEATHS OF SURREY. 85
athy ever these wastes, seen similar appearances, d to, on the skirts of Dartmore, in Devonshire. with The other shrubs, in this instance, are ably birch, white leaf(aria theophrasti) haw- the thorn, furze,'&c. The« running furze” ‘ors(a variety of ulex europeus,—or a distinct ying' species of ulexr; see WEST OF ENGLAND) here that mixes freely with tlte heath: a'so the blea- i berry, or whortleberry(vaccinium myrtillus) ds of—and the needle furze(genista anglica).... The LIVESTOCK, which this wide er'ves tract of country maintains, at present, are inted~. > the Those which are most conspicuous, on arve, the barren flat Heaths of Surrey, are small min, mean-looking CATTLE. Ye they must be andy of a quality, intrinsically good, or they could ve’ not exist, on so base a pasture. Their bone ad, a is, in general, remarkably fine. In horn, 1 one color, and thinness of carcass, many of them and resemble, so much, the ordinary longhorned ostly breed, that there can be hittle doubt of their ks being of one and the same race.* And, se what is observable, here the longhorned 1s, a‘: G DBIRy oing* The history of this remarkable variety of cattle
requires to be traced.
Soca i Se oe aaa i: eae‘ '-
86 HEATHS OF SURREY.
breed terminate, to the south. In the neigh- bourhood of Farnham, they are the esta- blished breed: while round Midhurst, the Sussex cattle are in full possession; Hind Head forming the boundary between them.
The number of SHEEP, seen on these barren lands, are inconsiderable; especially, on the more central and southern parts. In the Bagshot quarter, they are more nume- rous.'
The BREED resembles that of the wild lands of the West of England; and they are probably a branch of the same ancient stock. See West or EnGLanp. They are, in general, small, mean, ill formed animals. Their mutton, however, is in high repute. And they are probably well fleshed; having been starved into their present state.
Of razzits, I observed no one instance; on any part of these weak, infertile lands!
But of FISH, I saw several instances; these being a species of livestock in husbandry, which is common to this and the two fol- lowing districts; as well as to the more cultivated parts of Surrey.
The FISH PoNpDs, that are seen, in the dips and hollows, of the flatter parts of this
»
HEATHS OF SURREY. 8
barren tract, appear to be of long standing. The heads or dams, by which they have been formed, bear the marks of age. Some of them are of stones and earth; one I ob-
served of chalk.
The only particular that struck me, in
the economy of these ponds, is the form-
ing of dams, one below another, across the waste water channel; doubtless, as means to prevent the small fish from escaping.
Remarks. Where the soil is worthless, how eligible to cover it with water; and, by this means, to increase the value of the produce, of a given space, perhaps, an hun- dred fold. How many opportunities of this kind are neglected; while rich meadow lands are buried under fish ponds; and fre- quently to the great injury of other valuable lands, that lie below them.
Might not large tracts of this worthless land be profitably covered with deep water: not merely as a source of fish; but to water the dry lands that lie Jower?
On a general view of this extensive tract:
of country, there will be little risque in saying, that, notwithstanding its advantages of situation, with respect to the metropolis,
- TILED
ay rey,
/?;*
/ i
,.{ a te i X et ees: ae] li} coat)| ah| cal gi a] ey| { wh 1) i x+ wee Ti ¥: ie i rf 1] i i I Uh uf Fi) Ym (f| i i LU ; i E ‘4
~ a A eee
ae SO
ewEs
===
88 HEATHS OF SURREY.
it is, in its PRESENT STATE, the most unprofitable, to the community, of any dis- trict of equal extent, in the Island; the mountains on the north-west coast of Scot= land, perhaps, excepted.
t
MEANS OF IMPROVEMENT SUGGESTED,
My only motive for bringing these un- profitable lands before the public, and giving the foregoing sketch of their natural state, and present productions, was to prepare the way for the following suggestions, relating to their improvement.
Having long been aware of the value of the LARCH, as a timber tree; and, seeing it thrive, with sufficient luxuriance, as such, on lands similar to the tract I was then (1791) repeatedly crossing:* observing the
following year(1792) the progress made,
* The instance, which first caught my notice, and led me to the idea of raising larch timber on the waste
lands under notice, occurred on a flat barren heathlet, in the interior of Sussex; on which the larch throve with luxuriance; outstriping any other plant. Since that time, I have seen other instances of a similay
kind.
HEATHS OF SURREY. 89 by this extraordinary tree, in the bleakest situations, and on the inferior soils of the Highlands of Scotland; alse learning, there, the extreme durability of its wood; and con- ceiving the possibility of training the trees for SHIP BUILDING;* my reflections revert- ed, with double strength, to the barren tract, now under view; whose situation is most eligible, as a SOURCE OF SHIP TIMBER:'be- ing equally within the reach of Portsmouth, and the several yards on the Thames: as well as the private yards of the port of Lon- don; from which water carriage might be extended, into every part of the forest: so as to render land carriage, in a manner, un- necessary.
Should it even be found, that Encuisy LARCH Is not quite so eligible, as ENGLISH OAK, for ship building; yet it might, never- theless, be sound policy to use it, in that intention. The oak, to bring it to the size of ship timber, requires a good soil,
* See PLANTING and Rupr: Orn: Vol. I. page 143, See also a Report to the Boarp oF AGRICULT UREs respecting the Cenrra& HicHianps of Scotland,
go HEATHS OF SURREY.
and a sheltered situation; must be raised On CORN LAND; it might well be called the RIVAL of the WHEAT cRoP:—and there is not a sounder position, in rural, or in po- litical economy, than that wood should be confined, as much as possible, to uncultur- able lands; either as being too steep, too rocky, too bleak, or too barren, to bear profitable crops of corn, or herbage.
The arcu, I believe, if planted with judgement, might be planted with certainty, on the major part of the lands under view. And it is highly probable, that, when once a shelter shall have been formed, on the better stapled soils, the weakest might be planted, with success; and, it is possible, might produce wood of still greater dura~ bility, than that grown on the less barren lands.,
The profits arising, from this proposed improvement, to the PLANTER, would be progressive; and, in the end, immense. In the first thinning,(if planted sufficiently close) stakes and fagot wood, of the best quality, would be had. In the second, hop poles, superior perhaps even to those
HEATHS OF SURREY. Or
of the chesnut, would be obtained. After- wards, larger poles, balks, or ufers, for scaffolding, and a variety of other purposes. Next building timber, and boards. And, ultimately, planks, and ship timber.
THE
VALE LANDS
OF THE
WEALD OF SUSSEX,&c.
TO REPEATED excursions, from PET- wortTH, I owe the information I have col-~ lected, respecting these Vale Lands: my observations being more particularly inade, in the WESTERN PARTS of them. I never- theless gained a more GENERAL VIEW, of the District; in a route, taken for that pur- pose, by Pulborough, Billing shurst,and Hors- ham, to Betsworth, in Surrey; from whence, I have had frequent opportunities of ob- serving the NORTHEASTERN QUARTER.
The SITUATION of this well defined NATURAL DISTRICT, is between the Hills
o
*
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 93
of Surrey, and those of Sussex; which bound it; on the north, and the south; with the Forest of St. Leonard(one of the heathy swells that fill up the northeastern quarter
of Sussex*) on the east; and, on the west,
Black Down, and the other barren hills, which form the southern parts of the Dis- trict, last described; lying, chiefly, within the county of Sussex; but, in part, in that of Surrey.
The EXTENT, from the foot of Black Down, in Sussex, to the outskirts of the commons, below Betsworth, in Surrey, and winding, as the Vale Lands bend, round the Surrey Hills, is near thirty miles; and the medial width may be estimated at ten miles: thus giving an area of near three hun-
* The Hearus of East Sussex and Kenr. This barren tract reaches from Horsham to the Weald of Kent. The Forest of Ash Down(next in succession to St. Leonard’s) as well as the Heaths about Tun- bridge Wells, are as bleak and barren as the Moreland of Yorkshire or Westmoreland. Hence this forms ANOTHER HEATHY DISTRICT OF THE SOUTHERN CounriEs; in extent equal to that above described; but it is not so entire, nor, altogether so barren and un- profitable, as the Heath Lands of Surrey,&c.
ee
94 DISTRICT.
dred square miles; or two hundred thou- sand acres.*|
The ELEVATION is inconsiderable; being less, I believe, than that of any vale dis- trict, of equal extent, in the Island. Never- theless, it has ever lain sufficiently above the floods, to keep it free from surface water. I have observed no extent of water-formed land, in any part of it; though there is, here and there, a slip of what is called« brook land,” and though on-some of the flatter, commonable lands, the waters which fall on them, may hang occasionally, for want of proper shores to conduct them off.
The SURFACE is singularly uniform. Excepting the gentle rise of Billingshurst, and the rising grounds about Green, there are few prominent features,—scarcely a bil- low or a break,—to be seen, in any part of
* In looking from the loftier chalk hills of Surrey, a much wider extent is taken into the view. The Forest of St. Leonard, with other lands of a similar nature, and with a tract of broken country to the eastward,—lying comparatively low, with the Downs on either side of
them,—appear as a continuation of the Vale; and is all
comprehended under the vague name of the‘ Wild.”
See the WEALD oF Kent, in Vol. I. p. 336.
nl a, Le——— Sie= a Sa —E Be a eee ne noms
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 95
the area of this extensive tract of ground: which, however, is, in general, sufficiently diversified, especially near the brooks and rivulets, with which it abounds, to shoot off surface water. The margins are more broken; mixing, particularly on the west,| with the heathy hills which bound them. WATERS. In this respect, the exten- sive flat, under view, is remarkably circum- stanced. Lands of a similar description, lying between lofty ranges of high grounds, are generally accompanied by a river; bear- ing some proportionate size, to the extent of the vale, and the height of the hills, that define it. Whereas the vale lands under view, instead of giving passage to waters, collected on higher grounds, may be said to give rise, themselves, low lying as they are, to three rivers; whose branches, at least... have their origin within its area: name- ly, the Morz(and perhaps some slender branches, of the Wey), which falls north- ward, to the Thames; and the Arun and Apur, which direct their courses southward, to the English Channel: the former collect- ing its waters, chiefly, within the limits of murrey, the latter within those of Sussex:
SS ES——= aa » pa are ee ae ee a
g6; DISTRICT,
the division of the counties being near the turn of the water; which, however, is given by so gentle a rising, as to be imperceptible to the eye.:
The SOIL is, almost uniformly, of a clayey retentive nature; except near the extrem1- ties; where the sand hills mix, more or less, with the clayey soils. The low-lying lands are mostly pale, and unproductive; while the rising grounds are generally of a higher color, and a more fertile quality.
Remark. This difference of quality, be- tween the soils of high and low grounds, is observable in other vale districts, and may be owing, not so much to any original dif ference in their natures; as to their respec- tive situations: the one having lain, from the time of their formation, in a drier, the
other, in a moister state. And whether dry-.
ness, or what is usually, and not impro- perly, called warmth, be produced, by ele- vation, or by an absorbency of subsoil, the effect on the productiveness, or fertility of the land, is perhaps similar.
In a state of nature, trees would grow more luxuriantly, and afford a greater quan~ tity of vegetable produce, as leaves, branclies,
' Se——
se
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 97
decayed stems, and roots, in dry and warm, than in cold ungenial situations: and this, alone, would be sufficient to alter the color, texture, and fertility of the rising grounds.
It is very probable, that the topsoils, of the present day, are, more or less, the ac- cumulations of their own produce; accord- ing to the original covering; and the cir- cumstances of situation, substructure, turn of surface, and elevation.
The SUBSOILS of this District I had
few opportunities of examining. But the complexion of the soils, every where, shows them to be RETENTIVE. In examining a sronr QUARRY, towards the west end of the District, I found the substrata of varying qualities; covering a seam of light blue limestone; chiefly com- posed of marine shells, and in blocks, about eighteen inches thick; lying in a watery bed, and a shelving posture; dipping from seven to fourteen feet beneath the surface.
FOSSIL PRODUCTION. This LIME= STONE is sometimes called Sussrx MARBLE, or PETWoRTH STONE; and is cut into chim- ney pieces, hearths, and is used otherwise as a material of building, and furniture.
VOL. II. H
s ac
ne—‘ Pall a =~—- i ee — a-
DISTRICT. ROADS. Excepting the more public:
98
ones; as between Godalmin and Petworth; h Petworth and Horsham(by Pulborough);|| and Horsham and Dorking; and except a f less public one, from the Godalmin road, bo towards the center of the Weald; this ex- we tensive and valuable District may be said to re be at present(was in 1791) without roads.
In every part, I have been in, Janes are suf- ee ficiently numerous, and generally of ample‘i width; frequently wider than is necessary: to but, unless towards the outskirts, and in i some particular parts, the lanes through ii the inclosed lands, as well as the glades i across the commons, lie in their zatural Wl state; worn into gullies, and trodden into Pe sloughs. Even in the spring, and early th summer months, they appear intolerable, th to a stranger; and, in winter, are barely A ia passable to the natives of the country. for
From Petworth towards the center of the
Weald, attempts have been made, to form| fo roads of hard materials. And, it is pro-‘d bable, a sufficient quantity have been bu- nt ried, in the clay and mud, to have formed," under proper management, roads that might A have been travelled, with conveniency, the i
year round,
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 99
This subjeet will be resumed under the head of PROPOSED IMROVEMENTS.
I have to mention, here, an instance of practice, which I observed in the neigh- bourhood of Billingshurst, and which may well be adopted, as a general practice; ese pecially where hard materials are scarce.
That the road may dry quickly, and, of course, to prevent unnecessary wear, the mud(which has a similar tendency as water to rot and injure roads) is scraped off, and suffered to remain, in narrow ridges,(or thinly spread) on either side of the road; until it be sufficiently dry, to work easily, with a hoe, or other light tool: when the Stones, that are necessarily scraped off with the dirt, are separated from it; and, with the hard materials thus disentangled, ruts and hollows are filled up, as fast as ibey are
formed.
This light work is well suited, to worn- down, ahd maimed laborers; and, in the instance under notice, one old man had the care of a considerable length of road; which, under this principle of management, was, in the beginning of April, in the finest con- dition.
H 2
———————————— a a: cabin ee a a
108 DISTRICT.
The TOWNSHIPS of the Weald are, in general, very large; owing, as it would| seem, to the fewness of sites, fit for habita- 4 tions; especially in the early stages of| clearing and cultivation. At present, the i sites of the vILLAGES, and especially of the'
CHURCHES and PARSONAGES, are well chosen. But the fertile rising grounds, on which they are seen, were probably cultivated, long be- fore the rest was cleared; being, in the first| stages of society, scattered villages, or groups of huts, in wide spreading woods; which, in the more advanced periods, were divided among those eligible hearts of parishes. STATE: OF INCLOSURE.«A larée portion of these vale lands remain, in a state of commonage: particularly, on the out- skirts, and towards the extremities of the District: while the more central, and better:
lands, are mostly inclosed; there being, I P believe, no trace, at present, of common‘ fields having ever gained an establishment.- ae: 2 te
The inclosures appear, pretty evidently, to have been made from a state of wood-‘ l
land. Not, however, in the way in which forest lands, in other parts of the kingdom,| have been inclosed; not by following nar-|
WEALD OF SUSSEX, TOA
are row lines of bushes, or underwood, and f wuld clearing up to these, on either side; thus j he leaving crooked hedges, and irregular in-{) ee closures;* but, by leaving broad, straight- 1 the edged hedgerows, with square, or straight- a a a lined inclosures, surrounded with these wide i | borders of wood. il en. ee i hey ReMarxk. This appears to have been yi | aoe aa " done, on the same principle of precaution, y Fe that the coppice hedges of Devonshire were J vs raised; namely, to afford a supply of fuel;| P there being, in the greater part of the Weald, 1, in
| no extensive plots of woodland left: and, ded Ses aan — roadless district, wood, oTOWw-
Th | j i | im. Tal: } "d Th
cl ing within each: towns} lip, Was necessary. i A dj it shows a degree of prudence and fore- ue cast, which does ered t to those who struck Our Out; a Ra established, so valuable a custom. the In Holderness, in Lincolnshire, and in some ‘tet parts of the Midland counties,—where the ig,| woodlands He been improvidently swept ., away, and no provision made, to give the ent.
requisite supply of fuel, in places where tly, coals, peats, or turves, are not to be had,
od but at too great.a cost for farmers and cot- hich tagers to compass,—straw and the dung of oni; eg es¢° lee* See Miptanp Counrizs on this subject.
nal-::
102 DISTRICT.
cattle, are ordinary articles of fuel,—even to this day!
The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of the portion of vale lands, now under con- sideration, may be said to be woop, and ARABLE crops! Excepting the commons, and some narrow slips of BROOK LAND, there is scarcely an acre of NATURAL HER- BAGE, Of OLD GRASS LAND, in a township: and this, notwithstanding almost every acre of the District is fitter for permanent her= bage, than for any other species of produce. The green lanes, every where, are seen in the finest turf. But the inclosures having been formed, from a state of woodiness; and having, ever since, been subjected to the plow(or, if suffered to lie a while to rest, it has been for so short a time, and in so foul and weak a state) they have never had an opportunity of acquiring a thick pro- fitable sward of perennial herbage: and it is, I believe, considered, by their occupiers, as a thing impossible, to bring them into so desirable a state.
Near the village of Kirdford, I observed two or three instances of old sward. But it appeared to have grown into grass,
SS,
WEALD OF SUSSEX. loz
from the forest state. Not the trace of ridge or furrow. The herbage various and good.
This subject, also, will be resumed, in offering hints for IMPROVEMENT.
To speak of the ORNAMENT, of the wide flat of vale lands, now in view, might seem almost ridiculous. Yet there are passages; particularly that between Green and Billingshurst; where the two principal branches of the Arun separate; in which much beauty may be caught; though, with the present roads, it cannot well be en= Jjoyed, by travellers. There is an advantage, in a vale district, which elevated grounds have not; for ifa tolerable foreground can be had, good distances are seldom wanting.
En EEE
MANAGEMENT OF
Eos) wt.
OF ESTATES, or their MANAGEMENT, J learnt little, that is profitable, in this Dis- trict.
Property appears to be much divided: many comfortable places of SMALL OWNERS (the roads to them apart) are seen scattered, on the better lands; but the principal part is in the hands of tenantry.
The prevailing TENANCY, I understand, is that of leases, of fourteen, or twentyone years; especially, on the smaller estates; while on some of the larger ones, the occu- pation remains, at will.
The usual time of the REMOVAL of tes nants is Michaelmas.
The suitpines of farms are, in general, mean. The materials, of the shells, are
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 105
mostly timber; with weatherboarding, or strong laths and plaster, or pannels of brick- work;—of the roof, plain tiles, thatch, and chips! namely, the splinters and shavings of“hoops, and other coppice wares; with which hovels and sheds are frequently thatched.
In the PLAN of rarMERIES, I observed nothing commendable. They are, gene- rally, ill sheltered thoroughfares; such as
NT, are seen, in other recluse, unimproved parts is of the kingdom.
The corn barns, in general, are suffi- d: ciently high, in front, to admit a loaded car- RS riage, beneath the plates; but drop lower, ed, behind; so as only to give height enough, art for the empty carriage to be drawn out.
flay barns are very common, in the 1d, Weald... The foundation masonry; the roof - fixed; being supported, by a sort of slight,
open frame-work.. Some of them are of a
és large size: costing fifty toa hundred pounds, in building. Suppose one, to hold fifty ~ loads, cosis fifty pounds, the annual ex- pence may be reckoned at eighteen pence, if to two shillings, a load. In a difficult hay Are
106 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
harvest, this is no consideration, compared with the advantage of having a safe recep- tacle, for the hay, as fast as it becomes dry; beside the saving, in winter, by having the broken cuts always under cover.
The uepces of the Weald have been mentioned, as broad forest belts; with, of course, a fence, running through the middle, or on one side of the border. The hedge- woods are black thorn, hazel, maples,&c. which are cut, or laid, at the time the cop- pice border is felled; and this is regulated, as in the management of other coppices and underwoods; which will appear under WOODLANDS.
A method of guarding the fresh-made banks of outside fences, against lanes or commons, may be noticed; as being particularly use- ful, in making up decayed parts. It is simply that of setting up long, rough black- thorns, against the bank; laying three or more rods across them, at equal distances; and pinning these, close to the bank, by means of strong hooked pins. This thin covering lasts, until the bank is compleatly firm, and its surface bound by the grasses
————
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 1o7
and weeds; which, by this means, have time, and opportunity, to flourish, and take deep root.
In the cates of the Weald, we fre- quently find the old, and doubtless the ori- ginal, hartree and stay; namely, a forked bough, with one strong arm, set upright, as the hartree(or principal end piece by which the gate is hung), and with a smaller one, rising obliquely, as the stay to the top rail: thus forming the stiffest, and most durable gate.
The method of hanging these gates is equally primitive, and simple; and, for common field gates, where there is not a particular road or thoroughfare, a better perhaps has not been introduced, into mo- dern use. The bottom or foot of the har- tree being reduced to a pin, or wooden pivot, or shod with an iron one,—and the top of it, in like manner, formed into a pin, or round tenon, about three inches diame- ter,—a piece of plank, with a hole through it of a size suitable to the top of the har- tree, is morticed into the post,—or, which is better, when the post is short, is do¥e- tailed into the top of it; and another
Se OE EE eee———-= ee
108 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
piece(answering to the head of the post) is spiked down upon it, to keep it firmly in its place, and to preserve it, and the head of the post, from decay. These pivots are less expensive, and less liable to be out of order, than hooks and thimbles.
WOODLANDS
AND
HEDGEROW S.
THE TWO, here, are under a similar course of management; being applied to the same purposes of TIMBER and UNDER- woop. Hence, in the area of the Weald, though there are no woods, there is much timber and underwood; resembling in de-
scription and management, the extensive°
tracts of inclosed woodlands, on the western margin,
Sussex having been long celebrated for its timber, I gave particular attention, to
(wed,
Cc
we e
ailar | to ER- ald, uch
de- sive enn
for , to
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 109
its growth and management; but gained less information, which was new to me, or peculiarly excellent, than I had been led to expect. The superiority of the Sussex tim- ber appears to be more owing, to the Sus- sex soils being peculiarly favorable to the growth of the oak, than to a uniform supe- riority of management.
Nevertheless, in a country, where timber may be said to have been a staple produce, for ages past, the mode of treatment, that has grown out of this length of practice, is entitled to a scrutiny.
In viewing the practice of the Weald of Sussex, with respect to its woodlands, it will be proper to observe the following arrangement.
The rise of the present practice.
Its outline or general economy. The method of training, now in use. The age of felling.
Valuing and sale of timber.
The method of taking it down. Application of the Weald timber. Converting timber.
Coppice woods.
ee WOODLANDS.
‘Not many centuries ago, perhaps, the whole of the vale lands of the Weald of Sussex were in a state of woodiness. The iron forges, with which its outskirts, for- merly abounded; and the demand for ship timber, during some centuries past, have been the means, probably, of reducing the quantity of timber, at least.
The reason why much of the western, margins of the vale lands remain in wood, while the area has long been cleared, ap- pears to be the greater difficulty of car- riage, which the interior of the vale expe- rienced; whether in conveying charcoal to the forges, fuel and fencing materials to the neighbouring hills, or timber to the ship yard, or other market. Woodland was of less value, in the area, than on the margins; while the lands, in general, were better adapted to corn.
This being as it may, it is evident, that there has been a time, when the clearing of woodlands was carried to excess; either through the success that attended it, on the better lands; or through a temporary rise, in the value of corn lands; or a depression
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 11
of the value of woodland produce; at the time, probably, when the furnaces were ex- tinguished. It is evident, that lands have been cleared, and no doubt at a great cost, which would, now, be more profitable in wood, than in any other produce.
And it is ascertained, by tradition, that at no great distance of time, even timber hag been of little estimation; estates havin been, formerly, bought and sold, without much regard to the timber they bore; and instances are mentioned, in which(pro- bably through a rise in the market) the purchase money has been regained, by the timber alone. This has roused men of landed property, to a closer attention, to. their woodlands, and hedge timber; and this, toa more accurate and regular plan of management.
The GENERAL ECONOMY, or out- line, of this plan, may be conveyed, as fol- lows. The main or ultimate object is Trim BER: Coppice, or UNDERWooD, being only amean to that end. Thus, when a wood of timber is fallen, the shoots from the stools are protected, as coppice woop: and at the fall of this, every seedling plant of
Fa rer
112 WOODLANDS.
oak, that has sprung up, in the interspaces; is sedulously left; to rise for another crop of TimBER: it being an invariable principle of management, with the Sussex woodmen, to reject all sapling shoots, from the stools of fallen trees, as standards, for timber. At the next fall of coppice wood, the timberlings, or“ tellers,’ left, at the first cutting, are thinned, where they are too numerous, and others left; in the vacancies, which were not sufficiently filled, in the first instance: thus, continuing to nurse up seedlings, in the vacancies, and to thin crouded tellers, until the entire ground be occupied, by seminal timber trees: continuing, however, to cut off the underwood, from time to time, so long as it pays for the labor; which, under the present practice of felling timber, prema~ turely, is probably until the fall takes place. Under this routine of management, it is evident, that the Sussex timber woods be- come, in effect, GRoveEs; and its timber, STRAIGHT-STEMMED, GROVE TIMBER. For, growing with great luxuriance, and in a crouded state, the trees shoot up, straight, as pines; with the bark, generally, as smooth and as palely colored, as that of the
2 ae eS pana ec
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 113
beech, or the esculus; and with regular elliptical heads, resembling those of the latter; except that the tops of the Sussex oaks are generally more pointed, and co- nical.
In the woods, now training, there will scarcely be a strong KNEE, or a sharp CROOK, in a hundred acres. And the trees of the hedgerows, being trained, in a similar way, their structure is very much the same; ex- cept that the underwood being less close, strong, and tall,(as it is liable to be brouzed by cattle) the stems are not forced up, so high, as they are in the woods; where twelve to fifteen feet is the usual length of stem; while, in the hedgerows, eight to twelve may, perhaps, be taken as the more common height.
The METHOD OF TRAINING js judicious; being well calculated to give strength, and length of stem. The great error, in training timber trees, where the young plants rise thickly on the ground, is that of leaving too many; and thereby leading them up, weak, and topless.
. The yeomanry of the Weald,—having, i the experience of ages, come at this VOU. TE J
IT4 WOODLANDS.
truth*; and seeing, in each other’s woods, AP the mischiefs, which an overweaning fond- ness, in the owner, for every straight, luxu- a riant teller, no matter whether properly i placed;(thus leaving too many, to the in- io
jury of the whole)—form themselves, into i societies, or CLUBS; Meeting, at each other’s Ar houses, and going over their respective a woods, to point out and correct, their se- 4 veral errors. a
REMARK, This custom, in itself, is suf- a: ficient to establish accurate ideas, on the I subject; and similar meetings, and juridical. Bi
Ing
* ON SETTING OUT TELLERS. Yet, woodmen 0 even of the first experience, in the Weald of Sussex, dj differ in their opinions, respecting the particular man-
3 ner, in which tellers” should be set out: namely,. whether they should be left, zz the first instance, at the be distance, ultimately required; as one to two statute| a rods; or whether they should be thinned, from time to as| time, as their tops enlarge.;
The first gives greater freedom, in reaping the suc- th ceeding falls of UNDERWOOD(and is of course more Cal favorable to a ¢enant who reaps them); the latter, a better tio) choice of TREES, and a greater chance of furnishing, I mas eventually, an even, full, ta// grove of TIMBER. But it; ii
is less calculated to grow knees and crooks, than the prac- tice of setting the standards out, at a full distance, in eth the first instance.
— SSRIS SS TOMA TPS AT a OO Sr NR ra=== Pie, SS———E ceaicceabone See——— eas— i So SES a. en, ae
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 115
Ona. decisions, might have as good an effect, in ond: other matters of rural economy; especially al in the breeding of stock. The annual shows erly of rams, in the Midland Counties, have Ihe doubtless been highly useful, in ripening Into the judgments, of those who attend them. ier's And all public shows, of livestock, have tive a similar tendency; by associating indivi- Ses dual opinions, and(when private interest and passion do not get the better of reason sul-- and general utility) drawing from them the - the most accurate ideas, they collectively afford. dical But they are, by no means, equal to meet- ings of professional men, for the purpose of vimnen going over each other’s flocks and herds, of SEEK, different breeds and ages, to point out, not ae only the individuals, which are proper to Wr, be kept on, to improve the several breeds; tatute but also those which ought to be expelled, ime to as being liable to injure them; beside giving the subject a sort of agitation, which it ed cannot receive, without a free communica- < tion of sentiments and opinions: and this hing, most particularly, when men, whose pre- But it Judices have separate roots, are brought to- aS gether. ey i rs
ae le cc— ae Reg A Pane ee eee ce og i SN ge ar ss— : Bre he=————
116 WOODLANDS.
And hence, would arise one of the many advantages, to be expected, from PUBLIC SEMINARIES.
PRUNING TIMBER TREES. There is a principle of management, adhered to, in the Sussex practice; especially in the train- ing of wood timber; which may be right in Sussex, where not only timber, but under- wood, grows with unusual luxuriance; but which, in countries less prone to wood, might be deemed most improvident; as leaving that to nature, which, as in many other instances, ought to be assisted by art.
A Sussex woodman may be right, in never using the pruning knife; as the luxu-
-rjance of the underwood, there, precludes
the use of it. The impervious thickets, that grow round young timber stands, smother, or check, the tender side shoots, to a cer- tain height; as ten to fifteen feet; and, if this be:a sufficient length of stem, for-a Sussex timber tree, their principle of ma- nagement is right.
But, in training bedgerow trees, this re- ligious principle is, frequently, or uniformly,
WEALD OF SUSSEX. ae
dispensed with. In‘ this case, the young trees are pruned,“as high as a man can reach;’ and if he should mount a ladder, and go a litile higher, the advantage, not only to the trees, but the fences, and the grounds on either side of them, would be increased.
Remarks. A more erroneous, and in- jurious opinion does not exist, in the whole circle of rural management, than that. of leaving timber trees to Nature, in situations where Art has put it out of Nature’s power, to give them the proper assistance; as is invariably the case, with respect to hedge- row and standard trees: and is equally such, in wood trees, where the natural growth of underwood is not sufficient, to force them° up, to the length of stem, that human pur- poses require. What injury, can removing a twig, the size of the finger, from a stem the thickness of the arm, do to the body of a tree, then to be produced? And, under common good management, there is no oc- casion to remove a twig, thicker than the finger, nor to prune a stem larger than the arm; provided the operation be performed, in due time,
118 WOODLANDS.
The argument held out, by the Sussex woodmen, is, that boughs, though ever so small, even twigs, which are cut off, from stem of a tree, cause a“bleeding;” and this is injurious to the“heart.” While a bough of the largest size, which rots off, leaves not even a scar, or a crinkled grain behind; the stump filling up the orifice, until the wound be healed over: and this argument has been so long made use of, until those who apply it, believe it to be true.
But who, in passing through a wood, has not seen the stems of trees using every effort, to overtop decayed stumps; rais- ing their barks and outer growths, several inches, perhaps, without the general sur- face? At length, the bark reaches the end of the stump, or the stump rots down to the bark; where, if it be large, a hollow is formed; convenient, in the first instance, for birds to build their nests in; and, as the decay proceeds, becomes a receptacle for water; the rottenness, sinking, by degrees, until the heart of the tree be reached.
GENERAL REMARKS, on the SussEX PRAC= TicE. The Weald of Sussex has long been
WEALD OF SUSSEX, 119
bs celebrated, for its oak timber; and, of the s excellency of its quality, there cannot be mn the least doubt. But, from an attentive exa- nd mination of the soil, and the management, 4S by which it is produced, I am clearly of tf, opinion, that its superiority may be fairly in claimed, by the former. For, unless in the ce, particular of setting out young stands, with iis sufficient freedom, I perceived no superiority of, of treatment, in Sussex;—compared with be other woodland districts of the kingdom. With respect to the practice of training 1a oak timber trees, from SEEDLING PLANTS,* Ty and scrupulously rejecting sapling shoots, 11S- the propriety, or impropriety, of it de- oral pends, entirely, on circumstances. uIP In a situation, where a sufficiency of seed- nd ling plants can be had, in a few years; and a*« SEEDLING OAKS.’ Woodmen, in different parts OW of the Island, and even in the Weald of Sussex, differ 1ce, in their opinions, respecting the young plants of oak, the which rise in the interspaces of fallen woods; as to fn whether they are wholly seedlings, from acorns, disse-
minated by birds or vermin, or in part suckers, thrown
Cy up, by the more superficial roots of the fallen trees. This matter requires to be cleared up. If the oak
sends up suckers, exposing its roots to the atmosphere
\0# might assist in producing them.
en
er
129» WOODLANDS.
where a straightness of timber, either for the Jouse Carpenter's use, or for planks to be used in ship building; and especially where coppice ware is wanted;—the practice of training seedlings appears to be perfectly eligible. But, in situations, in which the oak is less a native; where a sufficiency of seedlings could not be expected, to fill up the ground, in the course of a few years; more especially where mere coppice wood is of little value(as in the coal countries) and where ship timber is the main object,— training the first shoots from the stools of fallen trees is, indisputably, the most eligible practice.
A Yorkshire wood, trained from the stools, agreeably to the common practice of that county, has an hundred fold the num- ber of cRoox and KNEES, that a wood of the Weald of Sussex has, when trained, agree- ably to the practice of that district, from seedling plants.
Were the several circumstances of the two districts duly weighed, it is more than probable, that both practices would be found nearly right; each being adapted to the soil and situation in which it is established,
from
the
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 121
And it would, of course, be wrong, to trans- plant either of thei, into the soil and situa- tion of the other.
There is, however, one point of the Sus- sex practice; which, though not peculiar to Sussex, might be introduced, with good effect, in many places, whereit is not thought of, or used, at present. This is DRAINING the wet swampy parts of wooDs; so as to carry off surface water, at least; and, in some cases, to cut off the springs. In this, the Sussex woodmen might will be copied, universally.
Accurate management requires, that a crop of wood, as of corn, or herbage, should be even, and full, on the ground; and that every part should be productive.
AGE OF FELLING TIMBER. Either from an extraordinary demand for ship timber, and other timber of size, or from the price which bark has borne, for some time past, or a concurrence of other circum- stances, there is no oak timber left standing, in the Weald of Sussex(except on the de- mesne lands of men of fortune), which, either in growth, or in size, is applicable to the purpose of building ships of burden and
122 WOODLANDS.*°.
strength.“In 1791, there were very few woods of more than half a century stand- ing: and woods, even of less than that age, were then paying, not the debt of nature, but the debts of their owners. The oldest wood, I find particularized on my Journals, was then about seventy years old; and this drew my attention, more particularly, as it was, at that time, making its bow.
I recollect but one estate, on which a re= servation of timber is now making: and, should succeeding possessors be as solicitous to preserve, as the present proprietor is to train up, this estate must necessarily be- come, a century hence, a valuable boon to the possessor and the community. I speak of the PETWoRTH ESTATE.
SELLING and VALUING TIMBER. Large allotments are sold to timbermen, who purchase them standing, take them down, and convert them, for the ship yards.
The sare is generally, by private con- tract; the seller and buyer making their separate valuations; by measuring and es- timating the trees, as they stand, in a ready and accurate manner.
ft ise sles tll hs been tl copy isabout together most§ longa to the haps, p no whe strap 0 apteeat (allows the fi show, square, main st the sli Princip Way,\ The up ilo th with ong es It Measure f
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 12
It is done by means of a LonG Ron, or slender pole, about a statute rod in length; generally, a slender ashen sapling, that has been drawn up, to that length, among tall coppice wood: and its mean thickness is about that of the handle of a hay rake: together with a MEASURING sTRapP, on the most simple principle; the invention of long and extensive practice; being common to the Woodlands of Sussex; and is, per- haps, peculiar to them:: I have observed it no where else in use. It is a long slender strap of leather, graduated and figured, agreeably to what is called timber girt; (allowance being made for the bark) so that the figures and intermediate graduations show, at sight, what the naked timber will square; and the rod gives the length of the main stem, at least; so that, by the help of the sliding rule, the admeasurement of the principal part is set down, in this summary way, with a sufficient degree of exactness. The upper length, if the tree be very tall, also the main bough, or spire, together with one other bough, are estimated, by the eye: it being the practice of Sussex, to measure two principal boughs, or branches,
— sh_— yt pa er (a—_S
a A OE Re OT TOO ET 0 IS
Oe
ere
124» WOODLANDS.|| of the top of a timber tree, up to six inches timber girt.» sli
Two men, accustomed to this mode of"i estimation, will“ view” an extent of tim-~ ber, with very little deviation, as to quan- a,; tity. Hence, the matter of bargain lies ie c with the specific qualities of the wood and mae bark, the situation in which they grow, North- and the fair market prices, at the time of ia sale.|— topal Another simple invention, probably the that t result of the same long continued practice, to, orf has been hit upon, for MARKING the trees, as they thus measured, and set out, for sale. This and, tn is'a light HATCHET, with a broad hammer to be end, and with a letter or other character, husba rising, with a sharp relief, out of the face of| lan, it. The roughness of the bark being struck| cumin off, with the edge of the hatchet, the re-| timber quired mark is imprinted, by one stroke of FOLK@ the hammer. the si The method of TAKING DOWN tim-: entire, ber trees here, is, invariably, that of sawing Ina them off, horizontally, close to the ground:| lad be by means of a long saw, with one or both| ie, On handles fixed on the upper side, in a manner bled rise 4 somewhat similar to that, by which the Fhe, w ff»
WEALD. OF SUSSEX, 125
Inches Jower handle of the pit saw is fixed, at the back: the trees being first dipped in, on the le of falling side, with an axe. tim-‘ Remark. This method of taking down lan- timber is very eligible, in a wood, where a lies fresh supply of shoots, from the stools, is land required; as saving more timber, than the TOW, North-of-England method, of cutting them, me of aboveground, with axes; beside leaving fe top of the stool, level witli the ground; y the that the sapling shoots spring quite an ctice, to, or from beneath, the surface of the soil; ees, as they ever ought. But, for standard trees, ls and, in all cases, where the land is intended aire to be kept in, or converted to, a state of cen husbandry, whether as arable or as grass sake land, this method is very improper; as in- ah curring, not only a waste of land, but of
free timber; compared with that of the Nor- ‘eval FOLK and MipLanp practices, of cutting off
the side roots, and tearing out the crown, ca entire, and adhering to the stem of the tree. wing In an instance, in which many large trees ae had been taken down, in the Sussex man- ie ner, on pasture land, rings of sapling shoots
both had risen, round the stools; which, them- nner an f selves, were not only an additional incum- . tne
cS
y ge» err 7 a y* ee“ es F> f t a eee ig pre v- Se Sia Ee p= a os Beg: 5 am I 8 is ES ee eT ee ae EO- rs = Lt andl a.)—- i
126 WOODLANDS.
brance to the land; but, being large and smooth, and, after rain, slippery as glass, were dangerous to playful horses, or young cattle. Had they been taken down, in the method above mentioned, and the dimples, which this method leaves in the surface, filled up with ant hills, or other roughness of the soil, and grass seeds sown over them, the entire surface would, at once, have be- come sightly and productive.
In the sarKine of the oax, I observed no striking improvement, or deviation, from the ordinary practices of the kingdom, col- lectively. The trees are peeled, about a yard high; and, sometimes, six or eight feet high; while standing; before the axe is laid to them.
‘In the peeling tools, the only particular, that deserves to be registered, is the handle of the larger tool; which is sometimes that of a broken spade or shovel; or is made with the same sort of end, as the handles of those tools are in the South of England; giving both power and ease to the hand of the workman.
The Bark is set up to dry, with unusual care and accuracy. The ordinary trestle,
forme or on tl op wgalnst bark iS huge, t ing put off rai right thin| stem[ the ful The
the We althou large the ti feet m purcha Very fe ton of In t aw lit iralght the hedg be 4S I ly
a ggg OE
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 127
e an formed of forked piles, and horizontal poles, glas, ora cord, as strong rope yarn, fastened to oung the top of a line of stakes, is the stay; 1 the against which the small and middle sized ples,«bark is set, very even and upright; the face, large, thick, coarse pieces of stem bark be- ness ing put over them, as a roof; which shoots hem, off rain water, almost entirely, from the up- e bes right pieces; at the same time shading the thin rinds, from the sun; while the thick erved stem bark is placed judiciously, to receive from the full effects of the sun and wind. col The APPLICATION of the timber of yard the Weald is chiefly to sup BUILDING. For igh; although, at present, there is very little id to large timber left, such is the estimation of the timber of Sussex, that trees, of twenty ular, feet measurement and upwards, are eagerly indle purchased, by the builders. In 1791, I saw that very few trees taken down, of more than a made ton of timber each. les of In the CONVERTING of timber, I and; saw little to instruct, in this District; the d of straight wood trees are sawn up, into planks; the hedgerow trees, where forks, or bends, sual have casually formed, into knees and crooks. stle, It is, L understand, the prevailing practice
reas Sa es 2
ee ig sid cic muetinasin tia-— em= in eee
128 WOODLANDS.
of the District, for the timber merchant, or other seller, to convert, by slitting or squar- ing, the whole, or some considerable part, of the quantity that is offered for sale. This not only lightens the carriage, but shows the growth and quality of the timber.
The COPPICES, or unpDERGROWTH, of the woodlands of the Weald of Sussex, are
of Oak, Ash, Birch, Mountain sorb, Alder, Wild cherry, Sallow, White leaf, Hazel,-Chestnut,* Dogwood.
The acE oF FELLING coppice woods is
twelve years. The wares, into which these woods are
converted, are Hoops, Stakes and Edders, Fagots; as Hurdle Rods. <«¢ Baker’s bavins,” Poles, « Spray bavins,” Cordwood: for fuel, « Brushes,’ for Common charcoal, 7 kindling fires, Gunpowder coal.
* But, query, native, or propagated?
i i fa i el aeY a ft
ee
that of ten years, more or less; as eight to
i {vil in est allow the alt the a ranks conve T' roug don, thirte who d to the They hoop for th Th peeled
ery MTV ed, the l
OAhis stat tose, of WI
at a ER LRN Se hee eis PRO Oy TEE
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 129
i OF Hoops and gunpowder woods are the more Par valuable articles. The species of woods most art, in esteem, for the former, are the ash, the his sallow, the birch, the hazel: for the latter, OWS the alder, the dog wood( cornus sanguinea),
the sallow,(salix caprea). Hence, the oak 1, of ranks low as a coppice wood; being chiefly , are converted to fuel.
The Hoop-rops, are slit, and shaved up rough, in the woods; and are sent to Lon- don, in bundles, of sixty each, and about thirteen feet long, to the hoop-benders; who dress, bend, and sort them; according to the markets, for which they are suitable. The principal part of the Sussex and Surrey
yds is hoops, I understand, go to the West Indies; ht to for the binding of sugar casks. The GuNPOWDER woop is invariably 5 are peeled; being left standing, for this pur- pose, until the bark willrun;* and js char- lers, red, with peculiar care.
* VEGETATION. An experienced woodman has ob- served, that the shoots, from the stools of wood, felled
fuel, in this state of growth, are much stronger, than from val, those, off which the wood has been taken, in the winter |. months; and accounts for it, by the wounds of the latter being exposed, between the cutting and the protrusion
VO Ii: K
130 WOODLANDS.
A most ingenious APPARATUS.(on the principle of the gun-barrel, it would seem), has lately been set up, in West Sussex(and others, I understand, in different parts of Kent) for cHARRING woop, for the use of gunpowder makers, without suffering the atmosphere to communicate with it, during the process.
The price of gunpowder wood, in 1791, was twenty shillings, a cord>* while that of ordinary woods, was only thirteen shillings, The price of full sized wood fagots(four
of the shoots. But the fact is, the shoots are not pro- truded from the immediate margin of the wounded part, but through the sound, firm bark, below it; and although, ‘ even in the winter months, the bark may chap and rise from the wood, a few lines below the top of the stump, this only brings out the shoots, so many lines lower; which is ever favorable to the strength and firmness of the rising sapling. This observation of the woodmen of the Weald of Sussex seems only to corroborate the idea, that the extraordinary shoots of trees and shrub-wood, cut late in the spring, is owing to the previous influence of the atmosphere, on the removed growth. See Nor- FOLK, Min: 34, on this subject.
* The West Sussex cord, or sTAcK of wood, measures three, three and a half, and twelve; or four, four, and eight; according to the uses, for which the wood Is intended.
See; Se£
¥ WEALD OF SUSSEX. 121
nthe feet long, and three and a half feet girt) em) was fifteen shillings’ a hundred(of five (and score); that of spray fagots(very light,— Sof used chiefly for lime burning) five shillings, e of for the same number. ' the The woodlands of West Sussex are, now, ring mostly IN HAND; being occupied by their
respective proprietors; who employ wood- 1791, men, to reap the underwood, and train the hat of seedling tellers. lings, Remarks. Selling underwood, on the (four ground, where timber to be reared from
seedling plants is the object, to dealers, who t pro- have an interest in clearing the groind be- ee fore them, becomes altogether imprudent. me. Tenants have a still greater interest in pre- stump, venting the growth of timber. And being lower; at the discretion, and liable to the unfair ness Of dealings, of an inferior class of agents, is an also objectionable; though of the three, the 1e idea,= cal first to be chosen. fluence > Nor- wood, four, h the
K. 2
[ 132]
AGRICULTURE.
FARMS. In size, the farms of the Weald are of the middle class. They extend from one hundred to three or four hundred acres, each: the larger farms, that include the ordinary admixture of lands, letting(in 1791) from five to ten shillings, an acre; the rents of farms rising from fifty to two hundred pounds, a year: with some few below-and above these limits.
The pian is generally good. The build- ings, are mostly situated within the area of the farm lands: an ordinary circumstance, this, where lands have been laid out into farms, from the forest, woodland, or common state.
The CHARACTERISTIC, as has been inti- mated, is arable land, with the coppice bedge- rows that have been mentioned; but with scarcely any perennial grass lands; some slips of water formed‘ brook lands,” only
WEALD OF SUSSEX, 133
excepted: and this, although the greater part of the lands, the district includes, are more suitable, for wood and herbage, than for arable crops: but most for a due pro- portion of the three.
The FARMERS, or occupiers, of the Weald lands, are YEoMEN and TENANTS. Many of the former, and a few of the latter, are substantial. But the tenantry, in gene- ral, notwithstanding the lowness of their rents, are as poor, weak, and spiritless, as their lands; drawn down, as for ages, they have been, on exhausting crops; without
a sufficiency of stock, or of extraneous nfa-
nures, to make up for this endless exhaus- tion. is With good roads, and a suitable course
of practice, there are men who have sub-
stance, and spirit enough, to raise the Weald lands to twice their present value. WORKPEOPLE. In travelling over the vale lands, under‘view, nothing strikes a person, accustomed to agricultural surveys, more, than the extreme‘Vobinad of its inha- bitants; even though the whole country may be said to be'under a course of arable management! the villages are not only few,
Le ee x i
rrearrae
134 AGRICULTURE.**:
but small; and a man may travel, for miles, without seeing a hamlet, or scarcely a soli- tary road-side cottage. It is no wonder, that the lands are under worked, and un- productive.
The BEASTS OF DRAFT, in the Weald, are oxen and HoRsEs: perhaps, at present, in nearly equal proportions. As hard roads increase, the use of oxen, I am afraid, diminish. Chalk, for lime, is fetched from a considerable distance, to most parts of the District; and unless water carriage should be extended, across the area of these vale lands, it is to be apprehended, that horses, for road teams at least, will increase. Beside, the Weald farmers allege, as a rea- son for keeping so many expensive horses, that they cannot plow with oxen, in a wet autumn, so well as they can with horses; and so long as they use horses at length, and oxen double, their reasoning is good. But it has no weight with the general ques~
tion, with respect to horses and oxen, as
beasts of labor, for the use of a Weald far- mer. ed
The oxen are of the middlehorned class, and what is properly called the“ Sussex
—~
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 135
breed”; which will be particularly mention- ed, in the next District.
They are usually worked in double yokes, without horses before them{a pair of aged oxen being the usual leaders). I met with one instance, however, in which single yokes, with harness added to them, were in use; the yokes answering the purpose of collars, But this, I believe, cannot be said to make a part of the established practice of the District.
The age of work, in 1791, was from three to six or seven years old. But the late ex- traordinary rise in the price of beef, I un- derstand, has carried off most of the aged oxen; and must, in the ordinary course of its effects, reduce the number of working cattle; or prevent their arriving at an age, at which, only, they can he said to be fit for work.
The Horses are of the heavy, cart kind: partly, bred in the country: in part, pur- chased.
The roaD TEAM Of horses, is four to six; of oxen, six to ten. The PLow TEAM, of horses, three or four, at length; of ozen, four to eight. The ox carT is usually
Saas STN EO
i pa
= a
136 AGRICULTURE.
drawn by four. Theyjare driven with the goad; and by the. Yorkshire language!
Muzz_es are in use, for, oxen. at. work, here, as in the WEALD or Kent. Here, I have seen, not only baskets, as in, Kent, but strong mets, used in this intention.
IMPLEMENTS. The waccons of the Weald, as of most vale, deep-roaded districts, are tall and large; with a wide grasp, or span, between the wheels; which are, here, frequently made, with fellies, of six inches broad: narrow wheels, nevertheless, are,also in use... I have measured the ruts of a broad-wheeled_ waggon, full six feet, from out to out; or about five feet and.a half from middle to middle; which is, perhaps, as good a width, for farm carriages,.in general, as can. be fixed upon, for a stan- dard.
Remarks. Broadwheeled waggons, with double shafts, the horses, of course, draw- ing more or less in the broad ruts, are not uncommon, In some parts of the Weald. These, however, for horses in double shafts, and with wheels only six inches broad, and running six feet wide, are far from con- venient. But they aptly suggest the idea,
WEALD OF- SUSSEX. 137
-of adopting broader wheels, running at such a width, that oxen, in long yokes,(or in wide shafts), might tread, with freedom, in broad, smooth, firm, RUT-PATHS; without conten- tion; and with little injury to their feet. The practicability. of this plan ought to be tried; as it promises much, towards rendering oxen permanently useful, on the road.
In the prow of the Weald, I remarked nothing peculiarly excellent. Itisa clumsy swing plow; with a foot, or slider; which is used, occasionally, at least.
The pLow s.epcz is the only implement, now in use, on these vale lands, which struck me, with any degree of force,.or interest. It is one of those simple inventions, which necessity, in the early stages of cultivation, happily struck out. It is merely a forked branch, cut out of the topwood, of a large tree; the two arms of the fork being of equal size, and six or eight inches, in dia- meter; four to six feet long; and, about the same width, at the points: a triangular frame, of similar dimensions, being now raised; a foot or more, above this basement, upon which frame, the plow, or harrows are loaded. The draft is by the stem or’
138 AGRICULTURE. stump of the fork, which is left a foot of It more long, and in which a staple, hook,) wher or other draft iron is fixed.| yom REMARKS. This is not only the most| bye natural sledge, but was, in the day of its| inthe invention, also a most simple road maker, in} they a soft, deep soiled country. It acts as the ridges snow sledge of NorFroLk; and tends to con level and smooth the tracks, and footsteps,| Long of the animals that draw it. And the ope-| amid rations of plowing, and harrowing, being| stag most in use, when the roads of such a coun- are 9 try are passing, from their soft to their firm oly state, this simple implement would give a fo smooth, level, carriage path, for summer| pan travelling; and, even, at this day, might be rah useful in smoothing horse paths, side roads, bt by ways, and roads to grounds; especially a in a stiff soiled country. ri A ROLLER, with a pole, for oxen, I ob- v| served, for the first time, I think, in this| thi District.| We The sLiDING YOKE, of the Weald of Sus- oa, sex, is entitled to a place in these registers;| Tt, as it may frequently be found highly useful, ae in other districts, where the soil is tender;| no
and, most especially, in a wet season.
rere
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 139
ra It is used in harrowing narrow ridges, when the soil i8 too moist, to be trodden, by oxen or horses, drawing upon the land. eS By means of a long yoke, oxen, abreast, draw : ae in the interfurrows; and, to accommodate oe the yoke to the varying widths of the S the ridges, it is formed with two pieces of wood, f to connected by two large staples, moving in babs long sliding mortices, which pass along the ae middle of each piece. The crowns of the being staples reaching through the mortices, they ae are secured, in such a manner as to give tree ‘firm play to the sliders, by means of keys, or sve a strong wooden pins; each slider, or distinct mmer part of the yoke, having a draft iron, a few mnt be inches from the inner bow hole; witha chain roads, or trace passing from that, to the harrow, cially or pair of harrows, bending over the ridge of the narrow land, between the oxen. T ob- PLAN OF MANAGEMENT. The n this OBJECTS, principally held in view, by the Weald farmers, are corn, and rearing cattle; f Sus with some portion of dairy produce. ster's 5 The crops are wheat and oats, with some seful, barley, some turneps, and many peas; but no der; beans! Much foul ley herbage; aH scarcely
any old grass land.
~~ F-=~. en a ae= nt
TAO AGRICULTURE,
In the center of the Weald, where wood- ml land produce is scarce, the furze has of late the years been cultivated, as a crop in hus- a bandry; for fagots, for burning lime; and bs is spoken of as a very profitable crop, on HOU the weaker lands.* as
. The succession, which probably has been pts continued from: the first cultivation of the ie District, is it We
Fallow,| I Wheat, jore, Oats;—now generally succeeded by| some Ley herbage, as long as it will last; then Ihe Oats, fallow,&c.&c.&c.| more
This is‘ probably the oldest, and 1s cer- af Ma tainly the worst, course of management, ing, now in practice, in this Island: except that, broke in which three crops of corn are taken, be- presel tween the cleaning of the land, and leying lying it, or letting it lay down to grass; a practice tbe plo which, I believe, is not entirely unknown to manag the husbandmen of the Weald of Sussex. ing th
lary e
* CULTIVATING FURZE. The seed, I understand, lone tc is usually sown with oats, on foul exhausted land, at the, fi rate of a gallon, an acre. It is either gathered, by wo- an th men, in the neighbourhood, or is purchased, at the shops,“ances,| in London. month fy
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 14t
Woods‘TILLAGE. The whole dependence of Of late the Weald farmer rests, in this respect, on | hus- the sUMMER FALLOW: and if it were made ; and for oats and ley herbage, instead of wheat, P, on it would be sufficient to keep the Weald lands, in cleanness and tillage, s been_ It is conducted in different ways,and with of the great disparity of effect: principally owing,
it would seem, to the Time of breaking up; which is either be- fore, or after, the spring seed time; and, in
| by some sort, to - then The application of the barrow. In one or
more instances, I observed, in the early part 5 cer- of May, six horses and two drivers harrow- t ment, ing, with great difficulty, land that had been| t that, broken up, in autumn or winter, crossed 4 n, be- presently after spring seedtime, and then i eying lying in large rough clods, still green from actice the plow! thus, by one wrong principle of| ywiito management,and in one operation,(reckon-| a ing the wear and tear, as well as the ordi-
nary expence of the team, and the injury cat done to the soil) sinking more, probably, vat the than the rent of the land. In other in- ‘ed stances, however, I observed, later in the* shops,
month, fallows of a similar description; but
a oes===-
gis AGRICULTURE.
which(on principle, or through neglect, or by necessity, the weather being dry and the soil hard) still lay in rough clods, with scarcely a green blade left; and.which, at seedtime, were clean, as well worked gar- den grounds: while a much greater number, partly from breaking them up too late, ana in part from improper treatment, still re- mained as foul, and almost as green, as the foul leys, or oat stubbles, which they suc- ceeded:—the difference, in this case, be- tween right and wrong management, being twice or three times the rent of the land.
In DEPosiTING, ridging, or laying up the soil, for a crop, the farmers of the Weald may claim some merit. The land, in ge- neral, is seen in narrow ridges, mostly of six or eight furrows, some of ten furrows; with suitable cross trenches; so as to keep the land free from surface water: a merit of no light consideration, in a low flat coun- try; where the soil is of a clayey nature, and the subsoil also retentive.
MANURES. The extraneous manure of the Weald is LimE; which is burnt, chiefly from chalk, fetched from the adjacent hills;— notwithstanding the shel/stone, that has been
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 143
ele, mentioned to be found in the District: but ry and it is now become difficult and expensive to » With raise. ch, at The southwest quarter of the Weald is Ga supplied with chalk, in great quantity, from mber, the West: Downs of Sussex; partly, by land e, and carriage, of perhaps ten or twelve miles; il res partly, by the Arun navigation. The north- a the east quarter has its supply, from the hills of °Y Suc: Surrey. The pits, or more properly quar- e, be: ries, of Betchworth, have been worked, time: being immemorial; the chalk having been, for- and, merly, and is still more or less, used in a 1p the raw unburnt state. The quantity which Weald has been removed from these quarries is In gee immense, stly of Lime kilns are seen, on. every common, rows; and in every waste corner, of the District; keep each considerable farm having its own kiln. merit« The fuel is invariably fagots, of brush- coun wood, or furze; except on the Arun navi- re, and gation, where I observed one kiln, for coals. But the lime burnt with coals is, here, as in anure Kent, considered of an inferior quality.* hiefly Remarks. The reason given for the dis- Trees tinction, here, is, that it contains a certain been* See Disrricr or Marpsrong, in Vol. I. p. 88.
%\ iro. RG one R‘6 ae Sante: pce
14d- AGRICULTURE.
quantity of coal ashes; which are not consi- dered, as a profitable manure, on the Weald lands: and, doubtless, they are not of equal value with lime; and, in such proportion as the ashes fill up the bushel(which in measur- ing stone lime is not considerable) an abate- ment of price should be made; wood-burnt lime being free from dross. The method of burning lime with fagots
will be described, in the DisTRICT OF PET-
wortu; where I had the best opportunity of observing it.
The method of applying this far-fetched, and, in many situations, very costly ma~ nure, is disgraceful, to the husbandry of the Weald. The ordinary practice, in the sum-~ mer months, is to set it across the field, in load heaps, and there to let it remain, naked, as it is thrown down, for weeks, perhaps months; until their surfaces, at least, have returned to the very state of chalk, in which it was painfully fetched, from thedistant hills, And, in autumn, presently before wheat seedtime, the practice 1s yet worse. It is then set on the land, in small heaps; which, having lain naked until the lumps have fallen down into checkers, are spread over
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 145
ei the surface, among the clods; where it lies, Veald for days, or weeks perhaps, until it has re- equal-turned toits natural state; without attempt- On as ing to profit by the only advantage obtained ‘asur in burning it: namely, that of incorporating bate- it with the soil, in a state of lime in fine burnt powder. For different methods of apply-
ing lime to land, see YORKSHIRE, MIDLAND Jogots Counties, and West oF ENGLAND: also * Per the District of MAIDsTONE, in these Vo- tunity lumes.
CATTLE. The numser, which the tched, Weald supports, is inconsiderable. In pass-~ y ma~ ing through it,in the summer season, scarce- of the ly any pasture lands, much. less pasturing @ Stitti- stock, meet the eye; unless onthe commons, held, in where young cattle, and-a few. mean starv- naked, ling cows, are seen; as will more fully ap- erhaps pear, under the StaTE or Huspanpry of have the Weald. which The BrEEp is that of West Sussex; which nthill will be noticed, in the next division of the -pheat work, and which is here found in a dege- Ttis nerate state; owing principally, perhaps, which, to the young stock being chiefly reared on have the commons. dover VOL. II. L
_-—_—
— ee ee
146 AGRICULTURE.
In the REARING OF CATTLE, however, there is one point of practice which requires to be noticed; and which, probably, saves the breed from a greater degree of degene- racy,thanthat in which itis found. The calves are reared at the teat;—run loose with the cows: not on the commons, or in the fields, only, but in the farm yards, during the early spring months; the pail being seldom, if ever, used, in the rearing of calves; which are, here, reared, as lambs: a practice fa- vorable to breeding; but ruinous to the dairy.
The sIzES OF DAIRIES are small; six or seven cows being a full sized dairy.
The little parry PRODUCE that is col- lected is butter:. which, I believe, is wholly consumed within the District, or in the market towns that border upon it. The mystery of cheesemaking, is not known, in the Weald of Sussex; highly favorable, as its soils naturally are, to that useful and profitable art.
SHEEP can scarcely be ranked as a species of stock, of the Weald; unless on the wide commons which are found in some parts of it.
eee Se eee a Se
Wever, quires saves rene= alves h the ields, early om, if which ce fa- 0 the
iX or
§ col- holly n the
The wn, in dle, as
1] and
as a ss On some
et
4 WEALD OF SUSSEX. 144
The BREED, seen on these commons in summer, and on the stubbles, and ley grounds, in the winter months, resembles that of the mountains, and commons, of Cornwall and Devonshire; except in that their wool appears to be of a coarser na- ture. They are probably the aboriginal or ancient stock of the adjacent hills; debased in their size, form,and wool, by the baseness of their pasture; which, whether on the commons, or in the inclosures, is ill suited to this delicate, dryland species of domestic animals.|;
The STATE OF HUSBANDRY. As an apology for passing over many general heads of the arable management, and the culture of individual crops, without notice; as well as for presuming to offer the fol- lowing hints, for the improvement of a dis- trict, in which I have not resided; I will, here, bring together a few notices, that I find in my Journals, respecting the prevail- ing practice, in the year 1791; and which, [ fear, has undergone no radical alteration, since that time.
March 29. Western parts of the Weald. «The whole country may be said to be in
Le
————————— Sore SNS ar
148 AGRICULTURE.
a state of arable, or wood land; though much of it is best fitted for permanent grass. The commons and wide lanes are in fine sward. How well the whole District is adapted to breeding, and the dairy. At present, it is disgusting to ride over, and most discourag- ing to farm in. Even at seven or eight shillings an acre, the farmers remain poor, and their farms under stocked. There is, indeed, little appearance of stock, of any kind, in the country.
April 3. Horsham to Dorking. What an immense tract of land, apparently mis- applied. What herds of cattle might be reared, and dairy produce collected, without perbaps any diminution of its present pro- duce of corn. At present, there appears to be no stock! The soil is of course tired out, with an endless succession of arable crops; and without any dung to refresh it.
April 30. West end of the Weald. Rode several miles, without seeing a head of stock, or a person to speak to. A few scattered cottages, on commons and in wide lanes; and, here and there, a mean looking farm house. How so much arable land is worked is astonishing; but it is evidently much
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 149
1 Much
| The underworked. The Weald, at present, is Ward, a poor country; but appears to be rich, in ed to natural advantages.
it is May 2. Towards the center of the Weald. urag- Nine tenths, or nineteen twentieths, of the eight cleared lands, are occupied by arable crops: poor, mostly corn; but with some cultivated her- ees, bage; which is chiefly ray grass; weak, thin, f any and spindling; yet, poor and thin as it is,
the whole is now shut up for mowing! Wha No appearance of a pasture ground, in the the country! except the worst of the weedy
fe leys,—(worn out, by constant mowing),— at which are now undergoing the first plow- a ing for fallows. Scarcely a head of stock, : in my whole ride. Except a few halfstarv- a 4 ed cows, and sheep, on commons! The Le prevailing crops are oats and raygrass,—for able the support of cart horses! And even the sh it value of the little wheat, that is grown, is Rote much of it sunk in the expence of carrying stock it to market. What a field for improve- attered ment!|
ane The roads of the Weald are the worst farm in the kingdom. Except in some few parts, orked they remain in their natural state: formed much of pure clay,—worn into hollows: and
’ al'
Re ee es~ = ea rane==———s oe
150 AGRICULTURE.
sloughs: roughnesses as high as the horses’ knees; and ruts to the axle. With, how- ever, here and there, a few hundred yards of good stone road; which appears to be now under extension. But it goes on so slowly, it may be some ages before it be finished. Not half a load of materials can be dragged to the parts now making. There has been already as many stones, and as ‘much labor, expended, on the road towards Green(not yet a quarter finished) as would have made a broad firm waggon path, the whole way.
May 15. The same. Fallows still break- ing up, from crowfoot leys! One instance _ of cows and calves in a raygrass pasture. The raygrass in full head! The stock, doubtless, starved in the yards, while the grass was spoiling in the field!
May 21. Northwest quarter of the Weald The crops—wheat, oats, and raygrass; with some peas; much fallow, and some barren leys.—A few small old grass inclo~- sures; and extensive commons. Large tracts of woodlands, and many furze grounds. The only stock observed in the inclosed grounds (in riding ten or twelve miles within the
_— Se
Hy
8 a rr I a
WEALD OF SUSSEX. te horse area of the Weald) was one worthless cow how. and calf! Some young cattle and a few yards sheep appeared on the commons. Saw not to be a team at work(except one at some dis- On so tance) nor scarcely a human face; unless It be in the village of Kirdford.
Is can‘fune 24. Area of the Weald. Beginning There to mow poor thin weedy raygrass leys. and ag Not a quarter of a crop; and that over- wards grown. Some attempts at perennial ley. would The weedy tall rubbish still standing to be h, the mown! Two fields, as white as limed fal- lows, with the full blown flowers of the oxeye teak- daisy. The soil, no doubt, having been stance fouled and exhausted by corn crops, was sture, laid down, in that foul exhausted state, and stock, has been mown, year after year, ever since. le the Yet the men of the Weald may argue, from this specimen, that the Weald lands are in- Teald capable of being brought to a.state of pro- sr fitable grass.: oe October 5. Many fields now white with inl; lime,—spread out of small heaps, and lying ts in coarse granules, unbroken, and unmixed| The Dung, in like manner, standing, week after sik week, in unspread hillocks! and, in some n the cases, on fallows, now lying in the rough
152 AGRICULTURE.
grassy unworked state, they ought to have appeared in, the latter end of May, or the beginning of June. What an ill managed District. How much unproductive land it contains.”
IMPROVEMENTS SUGGESTED. It has been shown, in speaking of the ROADS of this District, that a want of facility, in the work of CARRIAGE, is a great bar to ts improvement; rendering the labor of ringing in manure, and carrying out pro- duce, difficult and expensive.
But, in a low, flat, deepsoiled country, destitute, in a manner, of roads, and of ma- terials to form them with, WATER CAR- RIAGE aptly presents itself; and it has not altogether escaped attention.
In 1791, the NAVIGATION of the ARUN had, then, recently been extended to New- bridge, below the junction of its two prin- cipal branches, near the village of Green, towards the center of the Sussex part of the Weald. What appeared to be wanting, was a farther extension to Horsham: either by the windings of the eastern branch of the Arun, or across the more central parts of the Vale, by Billingshurst; and from
i i
Se ee A LL ge . cL =
—— ee
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 153
ai Horsham, through the Surrey part of the
Weald, to the chalk quarries of Betchworth, aged and down the valley of the Mole, to the nd it market of Dorking.
The western branch of the Arun pre- It sents another line of extension, equally ob- abs vious; to pass through the northwestern Yon quarter of the vale, to Godalmin; there, to ag join the Wey navigation; thus opening a na- or of vigable communication bet ween the Thames ‘Pra and the English Channel.
By means of such easy communication, nny, the entire Vale might be supplied with ma= manure, and its products of corn and tim- CAR- ber be carried off, at a moderate expence, 1S Not to the best markets: besides furnishing a
favorable opportunity of bringing road ma- ARUN terials, into the interior of the District. vew- Since 1791, the Earl of Egremont, whose prin- patriotism and benevolence flow in every reel, direction,’ has made the Rother, which falls of the into the Arun, near Arundel, navigable to nting, Midhurst; and has it in view, to conduct a aiher canal, from the Rother navigation, by Pet- sh of worth, and along the western margin of the vatts Weald, to Godalmin, This would render from
154 AGRICULTURE.
the water carriage of the Weald, still more complete.
The probable improvements that have occurred to.me, in traversing the vale lands
now under view, respecting ROADS, are of
a fourfold kind; according to the inten- tion of the given road, and the ree of improvement required, to answer that in- tention.
The present flat lanes are improveable, by two obvious means, without changing the form of their surfaces. These are by doing away the dangerous quicksprings, which frequently occur, on the hangs of hills, by means of UNDER-DRAINS; and re- moving the deeper sloughs, that occur in the bottoms, by means of trunks, or ARCHES; to convey the surface water, to the nearest drain, or ditch.
The next stage of improvement would be, to gather up a wide ridge, or BARREL ROAD, along the middle of the Jane, with the plow; raising it sufficiently at the crown, to shoot off rain water; and smoothing the surface from time to time, especially in the spring, with the harrow and roller: thus obtaining,
OY deg Le Une
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 155
! more
at a small expence, an easy SUMMER ROAD, lige for carriages.: lands The third stage appears to be that of fe of running a WAGGON PATH, along the middle eR of the plowed ridge, or barrel; with dila- Sor tions, or double paths, at the bends of the a road, or in the most conspicuous and con-
venient places, for carriages to pass each Sh other; and with lines of posts on either iis i side, to confine them to the path. nging For the more public roads, a firm solid fe by pathway, seven or eight feet wide, and mgs, strong enough to bear laden carriages, ss of would be required. But, for private or by : a roads, a much less expensive work would pel be found highly beneficial. The method of epee forming the simple waggon paths, here re- earest commended, is described in the MipLanp
CountiEs. They consist of three lines of ldbe, hard materials: one for each wheel; with ROAD, one, between them, for the horses to draw plow; upon.. shoot Had either of these methods, of forming race WINTER ROADS, been adopted; instead of ring,- attempiing to make, at once, wide barrel Ng, roads, of hard materials, fetched perhaps
several miles, the very materials that have
“be ¥ F=a a?
156 AGRICULTURE.
been buried in the mud, in making these attempts, on the outskirts of the District, would have formed sound, firm, waggon paths, across every part of its area; or, at least, along the most public roads.
f, in the Weald of Sussex, or in any country, where it is desirable to work oxen, on the road, in yokes, or double in harness, the wheels of carriages(as has been already suggested) were made wide enough to form convenient paths, for oxen to tread in, and placed at such distance, from each other, as to make them convenient for oxen abreast, to draw in, the advantage, in a public as well as a private light, might be very great. To accomplish it is an object highly worthy of invention.
The last stage of improvement, of the most public roads, would be that of forming WIDE BARREL ROADS, of hard materials, car- ried from the quarries, or the canals, by means of the waggon paths; beginning with the parts where they were found to be most wanted: thus, advancing progressively, from the lowest to the highest degree of improve- ment; without taking one step in vain.
Another public improvement, by which
* these strict,
0n
OF, at
ay oxen, ales, 1 eay 0 form 1, and ler, as reast, ic as preat.
orthy
f the ming , car means h the most from ves
. hich
—===. a a 5———
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 157
the Weald might profit, is that of IncLosING THE COMMONABLE LANDS, which now occu- py no inconsiderable portion of its surface, and which are mostly of a quality, that will make ample returns, for the expences of in- closing and cultivation.
And another, which is more or less re- quisite, in every vale district, is a comMMIs- SION OF SHORES, With INQUESTS, in the several parishes, or districts, which it com- prizes; so as to remove every unnecessary obstruction to running waters; and thereby give each individual an opportunity of free- ing his lands, in the shortest and speediest manner, from superfluous moisture.
The private improvements, of which the Weald of Sussex is evidently capable, are numerous and great: exceeding, I think, those of any cultivated district, I have exa- mined. Indeed it appears to me, that a TOTAL CHANGE of the GENERAL ECONOMY of the District is requisite to its greatest im- provement: namely, that of converting the principal part of its arable inclosures, to pasture and woodlands, and its pastured commons, or the more valuable parts of them, to arable inclosures.
Re ae:- oni—— em a
ath ah te' 2d aha pee
158 AGRICULTURE.
To convey my ideas, with respect to the INCLOSED LANDS, in the clearest manner I am able, it will be requisite to divide them, into three classes; namely,
The deeper better soils, which require only cleaning, to render them fit to be con- verted to a state of perennial herbage.
The soils that require to be deepened be- fore they can be properly brought to that state. And
The weak unproductive lands, that have been mentioned, as having been cleared from thestate of woodland, by mistake; or through circumstances that do not now exist.
The method of leying, turfing, or GRASS- ING arable lands has been so often treated
_ of, in these Registers, that it requires little explanation, here.*
The broad basis, on which its success chiefly depends, is that of cleansing the soil from weeds, through the means of tillage; which, at the same time, by exposing it to the atmosphere, will render it friable, and every way fit, to encourage the tender fibrils of infant herbage.
* See YORKSHIRE, GLOCESTERSHIRE,&C.; also the WEALD OF KENT.
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 159
The choice of herbage depends on the na- ture of the land. The greater the num- ber of distinct species, provided they are of valuable quality, the better chance there is of quickly obtaining a close turf,—in every season of the year. What I should recom- mend, for the Weald of Sussex, would be a small quantity, as one to two gallons of clean-winnowed raygrass; a similar quan- tity of the meadow soft grass(holcus lana- tus) or Yorkshire hay seeds; and of the dwarf poe, or meadow grass(poa annua), or Suffolk grass; with a like portion of the meadow or tall fescue(festuca elatior), if the seeds of it can be procured: also three to six pounds of white clover; with similar quantities of trefoil, and ribgrass.(plantago lanceolata), all of which are to be had at the shops. And besides these, a man who has industry, and the spirit of enterprize in his composition, would collect, and culti- vate, such species of valuable herbage, as he sees flourishing, on the best pieces of the few old grass lands, now to be found in the Weald, and add their seeds to the mixture: even though the quantity were small; for if the soil and situation should prove grate-
160 AGRICULTURE.
ful to them, as doubtless they would, their increase would be certain; while those whose seeds were sown, in greater quan- tity, would dwindle, and give place to them. The chief thing, to be desired, seems to be that of supplying the land with a vartety of species; in order that such as are best suited, to the soil and situation, may have a fair opportunity of gaining a footing; and this can never be done, with so good effect, as in the first instance; when the soil is wholly unoccupied,and when each has a fair chance, to establish itself.
To do equal justice to the several species, the manures, which are used for young her- bage, should either be spread on the surface, or be mixed evenly with the soil; and ought not to be buried with the last plowing for the crop. For, in this case, the strong, deep-rooting plants gain an advantage: and a great art, in producing perennial her- bage, is to encourage the finer grasses; without which a close turf cannot be ob- tained.
With the same view, the young plants should be kept closely pastured, until the
tender species are fully established. One
oa-_ SE ROARS RR ESOT TARTAR AIT RLS OT SE LEE NNR PTE PRET a IP IS MN RRB LN BERRI eal e.:
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 161 1 thet crop of hay, by encouraging the strong - those plants, and smothering or checking the quan- weaker species, is capable of doing irrepa- them, rable injury, for years to come; according to be to the size of the crop, and the age at which uely of it is cut. Pasturing close, with sheep, from suited, the time of the first shoot in early spring, a fair and with the same, or heavier stock,(after ind this the land will bear them) throughout the lect, ag summer, during the first three years, appears wholly to me, from many instances of experience, chance, and numberless of observation, essential to common good management. species, The proper stock, for such young grass ig her grounds, on the tender moist lands of the surface, Weald, would be ewes and lambs, to be d ought fatted in the course of the summer. ‘ng for At the end of three years, or whenever strong, the required sward shall be fully established, ntage: the dairy appears to be the most natural ial her- object, to be pursued, on a large scale, on yr asses the cool moist lands, under notice; which tbe abe resemble, in soil and situation, the best cheése lands of Glocestershire‘and North plants Wiltshire, so nearly, that there can be little l the doubt of their eligibility, in that intention. One See GLocEsTERSHIRE, Vol. II. p. gq. VOL, 11,
aa
162 AGRICULTURE.
The seconp cuass of the Weald lands
are, by far, the most difficult to improve. Their present unproductiveness appears to be owing, chiefly, to a closeness of tex- ture, and a want of depth, in the cultivated mould. - That tillage, properly conducted, and Jong enough pursued, would goa consider- able way, towards removing those evils, there is little doubt. Lime applied to the fresh raised soil; and any gross vegetable produce, plowed under, would greatly assist. If, by any easy process, part of the soil could be burnt, and spread over, and mixed with the rest, it is highly probable the whole might be thereby meliorated.*
The improvement of the THIRD cLAss of
‘Weald lands is obvious, and easy. Clean
the soil, by a fallow, broken up in autumn, or early winter, and sow it, the ensuing au- tumn, with acorns, ashen keys, or any other seeds of trees, more desireable; with or without a crop of corn. Fence securely, and leave the rest to nature,—until the plants require thinning. The success of this summary way of propagating woodlands is
* See YORKSHIRE, Article Sodburning.
ee ne
WEALD OF SUSSEX. 163
Md Tan seen, in the practice of Warwickshire, in the improve, Mipfranp CounTIEs. EATS to The right management of the common of tex. LANDS appears, to me, equally obvious. ltivated Such as are too weak for corn, or profitable herbage, inclose securely; cut down the ed, and brushwood, if any; and plant tree seeds in onsider- the vacancies. The rest, bring intoa course 8 evils, of arable management, as fast as propriety d to the will allow; for having never produced corn, evetable they would doubtless continue to throw lyasss out, under judicious management, abundant the soil crops, for many years. Where trees or 1 mixed strong bushes abound, cut them off, within e whole the surface, and let the land remain, in a state of grass, until they be decayed. For a remarks, at length, ON RECLAIMING FOREST Clean LANDS; see Y ORKSHIRE.
These observations, on the improvement| ae of the Weald of Sussex, are the fuller, as aa they are applicable, not to this particular eed district, only; but, more or less, to every ied vale country. I bring them forward, here; aa because many of them actually rose, in exa- a i mining the lands that are the present sub- sof th ject of discussion; and there is no other lancs'® district, in the Island, to which the remarks, m Me
164 AGRICULTURE.
here offered, can be so fully applied. I am of opinion, that, were the alterations, here proposed, judiciously carried into effect, the rental value of the lands would be nearly doubled; and this at a small expence, com- pared with the greatness of the improve ment.
qd. Tan ns, here ect, the nearly e, COM=
nproves DISTRICT
THE
Bebo TW Or“EH.
BESIDE making the Excursions, men- tioned, in the INTRODUCTORY REMARKS, to the VALLEY or Farnuam, I had a favor- able opportunity, while I had the honor of residing at Perworts, of looking over its environs, and examining the District, which is now the subject of consideration.
The SITUATION of the small tract of country, which. I distinguish by the Dis- TRICT OF PETWoRTH, is between the west- ern quarter of the Weald, or Vale Lands, last described, and that part of the Chalk Hills of Sussex, called the West Downs; extending, eastward, to Pulborough, and
166 THE DISTRICT
westward, to Mipuurst; where it meets with the heaths, or morelands of Sussex; and the fertile and beautiful valley, which shoots, further westward, from Midhurst, towards Petersfield; the District, more im- mediately under view, being chiefly a dila- tion of the same valley; down which the Rotuer falls, with a gentle current, and joins the Arun, in the southeastern quarter of the District.
The ELEVATION of the lower part of the valley is inconsiderable; the tide, I believe, flows within the District; and the south side of the river lies altogether low. On the north side, on which PETWORTH stands, the country rises, with an€asy as- cent, to a desireable elevation; being a chain of uplands, which divide the valley of the Rother, from the vale lands of the Weald.
The LANDS of this District, closely con- nected as they are with those of the Weald, are very different in their nature. The sol, which is most prevalent, and which cha- racterizes the District, is a light sandy loam; resting on a mass of sand, which hardens, as its depth increases; until it assumes the character of a gritstone, or soft sandy
meet Sussex: , Which dhurst, re Im- a dila- ich the ‘it, and quarter
part of tide,| ind the et low, WORTH easy a5- ra chain r of the Veald,
ly con- Weald, ‘he soul, ich cha- y loam; vardens, sssumes . sandy
OF PETWORTH. 167
rock; in which a few egg-shaped, or po- tatoe-form pebbles, hard smooth stones, of extraordinary size,—are bedded.
RemMaRK. Similar stones are observable, in other instances of deep sandy substrata;— a circumstance which appears to be entitled to the geologist’s attention; and their com- position and formation may not be unworthy of philosophical inquiry.
In some parts of the north side of the District, the soil is more consistent, and the subsoil a sandy loam, or brick earth; form- ing land of a most desireable quality.
On the south side of the river, the lands are less uniform; the substrata being, in some cases, retentive; producing cold weak land; with plots of clayey woodland soil; perfectly resembling the Weald lands; and are doubtless detached parts, that have been torn from them.
LA the foot of the chalk hill, which on this side exposes a steep broken cliff, runs a narrow vein of land, of a peculiar nature;— a close, waxey clay; mostly of a dark lead color, while moist; but dries to a lighter, chalky appearance; and is probably a com- pound of dark blue clay, and chalk. It is
168 THE DISTRICT
singularly fertile to wheat; in seasons, when it can be properly tilled, and seeded. Its provincial name, in this part of Sussex, is « Maam’: a name which is probably of ancient application. At the foot of Maam- scot Hill, in Kent, is a similar line of soil; and it is common, perhaps, to situations of a similar nature; as will be shewn, in speak- ing of the CHALK HILLs of the Southern Counties.
In some parts, this vein of land is so nar- row, as to be contained within the width of a single line of fields; but, in a sort of bay, formed by an indenture of the Chalk Hills, including parts of the parishes of Sutton, Bignor, and Bury, it spreads, from half a mile, to near a mile, in width.
The subsoil, or understratum, of this line of soil, is generally a calcareous rock, of varying quality. Nevertheless, the soil is mostly of a retentive nature; requiring to be laid up, in narrow lands; and, when in a state of neglect, is liable to be over-run with coltsfoot(tussilago farfara:) a proof of the coldness of its nature; owing, per- haps, to the waters, which are absorbed by the Chalk Hills and filtered through them,
“s OF PETWORTH. 169
S, Wher.::
J: being checked, by a bed of clay or silt; as af‘- well.as by their own retentiveness.
SSEX, js rE
bly The whole of the District under veiw is nt in a STATE OF INCLOSURE; except
faam- a few small heathlets, and commons; and | soil: except a small remnant of common field, on ons of the Maam soil. peak The PRESENT PRODUCE of the Dis- uenern trict is chiefly corn, and other arable crops; with some extent of“ brook lands,” or 50 nar'- marshes,at the conflux of thetworivers; and idth of a few narrow meadows, on the sides of the f bay, Rother; but with very little upland sward, Hills, or grass land.‘The natural woodlands are utton, inconsiderable; but the want of coppice half a wood is, in some measure, supplied by cul- : tivated furze grounds. his line A country of this description can, in it- ck, of self, have little claim to ORNAMENT. soil is The offscape, however, is generally. good. ring to The views from Petworth Park,—which vhen in equally commands the Weald, the District ver-rill under notice, the rugged front of the wild a proof broken heaths that-have been described, and 5 Oe the strongly featured steeps of the Hills of i by Sussex. and Surrey, lengthening to a very shem, great extent,—though they are seldom beau-
170- THE DISTRICT
tiful, are frequently grand; well according with the magnificence of the house, and with the extensive domains that attach to it.
In the management of ESTATES, I met with nothing of excellence, in the District un- der view. And its management of WOOD- LANDS is similar to that which has been described, in the Wea.p. I therefore pass on to
FARMS, AND THEIR
MANAGEMENT.
THE FARMS are of good sizzE. Many of them below the middle class: some rising to two or three hundred pounds, a year. Their CHARACTERISTIC is arable; except towards the east end of the District, where the marshes are joined with the arable lands.
cording Se, and ch to it , I met ret un- (0OD- as been Ore pass
any of e rising a yea except where arable
OP SPETWORTH: 171 FARMERS. The District, in general,
is occupied by Tenants; several of whom are wealthy, and intelligent. Nevertheless, there are very, few districts of the Island, at this day, in which a larger portion of ill placed prejudice, still remains, than in the northwestern parts of Sussex.
BEASTS OF DRAFT. Opposite as are the natures of the lands of the Weald, and of this District, the species, and proportion, of working stock are the same: namely, HORSES and oXEN, in nearly equal numbers. And the only difference, in the manner of working them, lies in one horse, less, being used in the plow team, here, than in the Weald; except that, here, oxen are more commonly used, in plowing, than they are in the Weald; and, what is inexplicable, as many, or a greater number, are used, to plow light free sandy soil, in the neigh- bourhood of Petworth, as to plow the strong heavy lands of the Weald! I have seen eight oxen, moving a snail’s pace, in stirring a light loamy fallow, which any two of them, with a proper implement, might have done, faster, and better.* Four oxen,
* Nov. 27, 1797. Since the above was written,
—
ss
172 AGRICULTURE.
and two horses, to lead them, I have seen employed, in the same unprofitable manner.
IMPLEMENTS. The waceons run the same most eligible width, here, as in the Weald; namely, five feet and a half, from middle to middle of the ruts. I have seen them in an excellent form: wide, low, convenient, farm carriages.
The pLow in use, here, is of a singular construction; and is common, if not pecu- liar, to the west of Sussex: I have seen it used, by individuals, in other districts, par- ticularly in Surrey; but do not recollect to have observed it, in common use, any where but in West Sussex.
It has a rising beam, like that of the Nor- folk plow, and the turnwrest plow of Kent; but with only one small wheel; which runs upon the land, or soil to be turned; nearly in a line before the coulter.|
An advantage of this plow is that of giving room, under the beam, for stubble or weeds, which may rise before the coulter;
this assertion has been more than verified. Ina PRIZE PLOWING, held at Perwortn, a few days ago, two Sussex oxen, plowed an acre of firm clover Jey, for wheat, a full depth, in less than six hours.|
SoS=
IVE Seen nanner, S run , as in a half, I have e, low,
singular t pecu- seen it S, par lect to where
1e Nor- ‘Kent; ch runs neatly
hat. of stubble
‘oulter;
a PRIZE 0, two
wheat,
DISTRICT’ OF PETWORTH. 193
and to a lazy, or an aukward plowman, a wheel is convenient; especially i in plowing stubborn or stony lands, or in ver y shallow soils, where a nice regulation is required, as it frequently is, in Norfolk. But, for the free loamy lands under notice, a light swing plow in the hands of a man who knew Lane to set and hold it, would, I am of opinion, be more eligible, and more convenient to the plowman, than the tottering unsteady implement, in use. The wheel is liable to be raised, or turned aside, by every clod or protuberance, it meets with; while the top- heaviness, caused by the height of the beam, adds to the unsteadiness. Its best recom- mendation is the lightness and elegance of its appearance.
The OBJECTS of husbandry are chiefly CORN; and EARLY LAmss, for the London market.
The CROPS, in cultivation, are wheat, and barleys with some oats and peas; many turneps,(but no potatoes) much rye and tares, for spring food, as well as for soiling, or ver= dage, in the stable; and with a portion, but small, of cultivated herbage; and this is sel- dom continued, more than one year,
———
174 AGRICULTURE.
The SUCCESSION of these crops, with regard to each other, is not reduced to any regular established order; each manager going by his own judgment, and the parti- cular circumstances that occur on his farm: and(as has been already suggested) on a farm, merely arable, without any regular stock establishment, which requires a fore- cast, beyond the passing year, such fortui- tous management is more eligible, than where a fixed number, and a regular suc- cession, of livestock are kept up.
TILLAGE. The unpardonable waste of labor, that is made, in this part of the Sus- sex management, equal no doubt, in a course of years, to the rent of the lands, has been mentioned; and I have not been able to detect, here, as in Kent, any counterba- lance, to make up for the loss.
The only point of management, with respect to tillage, that met my eye, in West Sussex, as being entitled to particular no- tice, is that of TREADING THE LIGHTER LANDS, WITH THE PLOW HORSES,—when turning the seed furrow in a dry season. Instead of letting three horses, at length, draw in the last made plow furrow, as is
eee
a RIG NRE Nt it iam
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 1975
ara co customary, and in most cases proper, they Bids are made to go by the side of it, and thereby re to tread, and compress, the line of soil they ce returning.| ) fe-This punle principle(for such it may be an called) though not peculiar to W est Sussex, is not sufficiently attended to, in general; : oe but might well be adopted, in every light land at district, in a dry season;—the advantage c tan might, in many cases, more than counter- sila balance, even the expence of an additional ye horse and a driver, in countries where two raste 0
horses, abreast, are the ordinary team. i Sus- MANURE. The species, and manage-
COUNSE ment, of manures are much the same, here, as been as in the Weald; except that, in the Dis- able to trict under view, MARL is more or less used; nterba- and except that, in one instance, I saw the MOORY EARTH of a heathy common, burnt, with in large heaps, for manure. n West The MARt is either an adulterate chalk, ar no- found near the foot of the chalky steeps of GHTER the West Downs; lying between the chalk —When rock and the Maam soil; partaking of them 20500 both; in truth, a marl of the first quality; length,—or a sort of blue mud, or clay, dug out of 4, a8 3| the area of the District; particularly, I
t76 AGRICULTURE.
believe, on the south side of the river. This is said to have been set on, with good effect; while the former is spoken of, as of less value: whereas, the white is more than three fourths of it calcareous; while the blue does not contain ten grains, percent, of calcareous matter!*
Remarks. Surely, the immense mounds of CHALK RUBBISH, which lie, as a nuisance, at the feet of the Houghton quarries(see the SouTHERN CHALK HILLs) on the imme- diate brink of the Arun navigation, might be turned to a profitable purpose.—as ma- nure; particularly, on the banks of the navigable rivers, or canals; not only in the District, now under view, but in the Weald.
* Anazrysis OF Marts. One hundred grains of the white marl of Duncton yielded seventysix grains of calcareous matter; leaving twentyfour of an earthy re- siduum. By other two trials, the proportions were, in one, seventyeight and a half of calcareous matter, with twenty-one and a half of residue; and, in the other, eighty grains of calx, and twenty of residuum.
One hundred grains of the d/ue marl of Hardham yielded eight grains anda half of calcareous earth; with ninetyone and a half of grey, smooth, tenacious silt.
In this District, an impure FULLERSEARTH is like- wise found; and RED OCHRE of a good quality.
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 174
e river A principal use, some will say the only th food one, of burning chalk, and other calcareous of as of substances, for manure; is that of reducing re than them to a state of fine powder; in order that ile the they may blend, more intimately, with the ercent, soil; and, under this idea, even the harder limestones have been pounded, at a great mounds expence, in countries where fuel is scarce. iulisance, The late Lord K aims had a watermill erect- "les(see ed, for this purpose, on the banks of Loch ° Imme- Rannoch, in the Highlands of Scotland. _ might Whether reducing hard limestones, by ane. mechanic force, has ever answered the ex- patie pence, I cannot say. It is, nevertheless, yin the very probable, that chalk would pay, am- >» Weald ply; for the operation. The common bark
mill—the Herefordshire cider mill—a stone wheel running in a stone trough—would,
grains of
gras of I apprehend, crush several loads, a day; earthy fe especially of the broken materials, here ee spoken of. Two plain‘cylinders, working net against each other, on the principle of the ‘i sugar mill, and the oat bruiser, might be Horton| found more’ expeditious and effective. If ath with fixed horizontally, and placed against a asl rising ground, with a road and shedded nee platform, on the upper. side, to lay up the
VOL, i N
178 AGRICULTURE.
dry chalk, and with a pit or vault, below, to receive the reduced materials, there to be skreened, and kept dry, for use, the ex- pence, especially if the cylinders(and per- haps the skreen) were turned by water, or by wind, could scarcely fail of being repaid, by the more immediate, and increas- ed action, of the manure.
- This, however, by way of hint, to those who may conceive themselves sufficiently interested, to give the plan a fair trial. The flints, with which chalks more or less abound, appear to be, theoretically, an ob- stacle to success; and, in moving the rough chalk, they should doubtless’ be thrown aside. Perhaps, smooth rollers, of a suit- able diameter, might reject them; and, if they were set somewhat dipping endway, as an inclined plane, the flints might thus be got rid of: if not, the skreen or sieve
might separate them, as well as the un-— crushed knobs of chalk, which had passed}
with them. Iam strongly impressed with the idea, that the trial should be made, and therefore make no apology for bringing the subject forward, in this incidental manner; especially, as I know no place, where it
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 99
t, below: » Delovy, could be made, with a greater prospect of
re to be extensive benefit. the ex. Lime. On the demesne farm of Per-| nd per- worTH, I had a favorable opportunity of Peles, attending to the method of burning chalk jj t being with fagots.,| Nereas- In speaking of the Weald, I mentioned it,) as a practice of that District, for every far- P| tO thos mer, who holds lands of any considerable i ficiently extent, to burn his own lime. I have ob- i ial. The served no public kilns, either in the Weald, i) OF less or in the District now under view. a , an ob- The kiln, on which I had the opportu- a e rough nity of making my observations, was the i) thrown ordinary kiln of the country: not only the iW {a suit: form, but the size, of these private kilns be- A ; and, ing; very siniilar and probably of long i endway, standing. The form is that of a cask. The HW vit thus diameter of the top and bottom eight feet,)| or sieve in the middle nine feet; the depth ten feet. I the un- the walls are of stone, lined with bricks, and A ad passed three feet and a half, in thickness. The\| sed it floor is irregular. The area is dishing, or ir nate, and hollow, to receive the ashes; a border, or 1 wing the‘ bench,” of strong masonry, about eighteen i} manner inches wide, occupying the outer circle; shih being, in reality, a foundation offset, of that
N 2
180 AGRICULTURE.
width; leaving, however, a gap or opening, on one side, for the eye, or mouth, of the kiln; which is two feet and a half, in width, and four feet or upward, in height.
The mystery of burning lime, with fa- gots, in a kiln of this construction, lies chiefly in“setting the kiln”; which is con- sidered as a thing of so much difficulty, as to render“lime burning” a distinct calling. Ordinary farm laborers have no pretensions to the art. The man, whose practice I saw, was not only a“ lime-burner,” by trade, but by birth and descent; the art having been practiced, by his forefathers, for four generations; and he himself had passed the middle time of life. These cir- cumstances, alone, prove the antiquity of the practice: indeed, no one, I believe, pre- tends to ascertain its origin, in this coun- try.
The art may briefly be said to consist, in building an oven, with chalk, at the bottom of the kiln; and then filling the upper part of it, judiciously, with the same material.
The workman begins, by setting middle- sized blocks, upon the bench, or foundation offset, above described; carrying up the wall,
Opening » Of the | width,
ith fa- mn, lies ‘1S cons ‘uty, ag ( calling, tensions ‘actice| er,” by the art fathers, self had hese cir- Iquity of Ve, pre-
IS COun=
sist, I e bottom pper part aterial.
‘middle- dation he wall,
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 181
nearly perpendicularly, but somewhat lean- ing inward, three or four feet high. The arch, or crown of the oven, is then turn- ed, with the largest of the blocks(some of them containing, more than a cubical foot of chalk) choosing them, for this purpose, long and narrow, and placing the small ends, inward, or downward; being careful to bind, with small pieces; so as to secure, firmly, each ring of the dome, before the superincumbent ring be attempted: thus forming a flat dome, without a center, and without cement.
The dome being secured(at the height of five or six feet from the floor) large blocks are continued to be set, by hand, over the crown of the arch, in the middle parts of the kiln; in order to induce the fire to find its way, upward; the smaller pieces being thrown in, at random, round the outsides; and over the upper surface of the large pieces. But no rubbish, or even fine chalk, is used, to cover up the kiln; as is frequently done, when coals are used, as fuel. In the practice under notice, the top of the kiln is finally covered, with large flat blocks; which, being there only par-
182 AGRICULTURE.
tially burnt, are returned to the kiln, at the next burning.
Each kiln, filled in this open loose man- ner, takes four large waggon loads of chalk, and employs a man, with a boy or youth as an assistant, one day, to fill, or set it.
The difficulty of the art seems to lie in
_turning the arch, or dome, strong enough to bear the superincumbent burden, during the intenseness of the heat; yet open enough, to permit the flames, to pass freely upward. If the draught be checked, above, they fly out, unprofitable, at the mouth of the kiln. Hence, the necessity of setting the central parts; over the crown of the dome, with large blocks, and by hand, so as to promote a sufficient draught, without giving too much liberty to the flames; which ought to spread, as equably as possible, to every part of the furnace.
The fuel, in the case observed, was small fagots, of furze and broom, which had been stacked up dry, near the kiln. A thousand of these fagots are the ordinary allowance, for burning a kiln, of the size described.
They are burnt, as fagots in an oven; the
fire being managed, in the same, or a simi-
acest
Ta
ere- aig QmEtie Shanken ie=. lta salt- a ee= eee AS TDN ag ATE OO PEL ia BREA LEELA eR AO NAT TGP at Fite a sh REE
| DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 183
Dine lar manner. Two men attend the burning; sini which, usually, is continued about twenty~ chalk four hours; more or less, according to cri- eg teria, which practice points out. outh as The established price, for setting the kiln nt and burning, is ten shillings. Reckoning 0 he in the fagots, at the kiln, to be worth five shil- Ough to lings, a hundred,* the whole expence, of ting the fuel and labor, is three pounds. A kiln, enough, of this size, turns out seven cart loads of upward, lime; estimated at eight chaldrons, of thirty- hey fly two bushels each. Hence, on this calcula- te kiln, tion, the expence of burning chalk, with central fagot wood, is seven shillings and sixpence, ie, With a chaldron; or near three pence a bushel. promote The cost of the chalk depends on the dis- Ing. too tance of the kiln from the quarry,—at which nught to a shilling, each waggn load, is paid to the ry part quarrymen, and sixpence(I think) to the lord of the soil. The price of lime, at Pet- as small worth, is seven pence, a bushel.t vad beet housand* The price of fagots, on the ground they grow on, owalce, is three shillings and sixpence, the hundred, of five : score. sorbed.+ ANALYSES of the Duncron cHALKs. By four n; the separate trials, with‘white chalks,”(which are burnt
4 siml- for manure) of different quarries, and taken at different
oP. ae en oie~~
—
184 AGRICULTURE.
The shelstone, or marble, of the Weald is burnt(or rather has usually been burnt, very little of it being now raised, for lime) in a similar manner.* The received idea, here,(at Jeast, in the mind of the hereditary lime burner, whose practice I particularly observed) is, that stone lime, however good it may be for grass land, is not equal to chalk lime, for corn; as it‘“ brings weeds and rubbish;” while“ chalk lime cleans the land.” It is almost needless to add, that he believes wood-burnt lime to be incompa- rably better, for any thing, than lime burnt from the same material, with coals.t
From the foregoing sketch of BURNING LIME WITH FAGOT woop, in the Southern
depths, the residua were, from three to six anda half, percent; the upper strata being the purest.
By two trials, with‘grey chalk,” which is burnt for cement, the residua were twentyfive and twentyseven grains, percent! Yet the lime burnt from this fou/ chalk is esteemed of an extraordinary quality, by stone masons. The indissoluble matter is an extremely fine tenacious silt.
* SUSSEX MARBLE, or PETWORTH STONE. By the marine acid, an hundred grains yielded ninetyt wo grains of calcareous matter, and eight grains of an earthy residuum.
+ See District oF MaipsTonse, also the WEALD
oF SuSSEX, for similar opinions,. ,,
|
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 185
a W ) om Counties, it is pretty evident, that, notwith- ; lime) standing the facility with which it is there d iden executed, it would be hazardous to attempt itary it, in another country, as a new thing, ulatly without having a person, practised in the * Bood art, to set It ae foot. The principle Is eVvi- ae dent, but the difficulty of turning the dome, Cui to stand with certainty, would seem to re- quire considerable experience. eans the This difficulty, it is probable, suggested that be what appears to be a valuable improvement, pole in the art; and which I had lately an op- . burnt portunity of examining, in the District a or Maipstone.* Instead of one capacious BURNING oven, two straight arches are turned, in the Jouthern bottom of the kiln. For this method, there ata tae is a“middle bench,” as well as the side benches, of the West Sussex kiln. In that burnt for I examined, the middle bench was about pai two and a half feet wide; and the archway, fi on either side of it, nearly the same width. ati The arches,(being raised, some two feet above the benches) are turned(part after p, Bythe— part, by a man standing in the bottom of aso the kiln) with three rough blocks of chaik, ae bearing a resemblance(accidentally, or as-
* See Vol. I. page 89.
186 AGRICULTURE.
sisted by a tool) to the ordinary key stone of anarch: a work which is performed with little difficulty; and which the roughest stone mason would, anywhere, easily exe- cute. The filling ofthe kiln, over the arches, is the same as over the oven: care being taken to spread the fire, equally, through every part; which is more easily and effec~ tually done, by two, than by one, fire- place.
These double-arch kilns may be burnt either with wood, or with coals. That which I saw, near Maidstone, had iron grates thrown across, between the benches; on which coals, brought up the Medway, were burnt.
It is here to be observed, that, in the Weald of Surrey, I have seen bricks, and tiles, burnt in kilns, of the first description. The oven, or dome, being formed, with chalk, bricks are set upon it, to receive the fiercest heat, and, on these, tiles. The three materials being, by this means, conveniently, and accurately burnt, with fagot wood.
On the other GENERAL HEADS of the ARABLE MANAGEMENT,| collected nothing, in this District, that requires to be noticed,
*
key Stone Med with ‘oughest ily€xe- earches, re being ‘through and effec. One, fire.
be burnt s, That On grates shes; on vay, Were
at, in the ricks, and scription. ved, with eceive the The three sveniently ; wood.
ps of the 4 nothing: ve noticed,
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 187
here. Nor, in the culture of PARTICULAR crops, did I find any thing, which is new to these Registers;
Except an instance of sowing WHEAT, after turneps, without plowmg! This in- stance occurred in the practice of one of the principal farmers of the District. Part of a piece of turnep ground was plowed, and sowed, in the usual way; the rest was only harrowed, or“dragged;” the seed sown; and covered with fine harrows. The consequence, as related, was a fine crop, and free from smut; while the part, plowed, was not only an inferior crop, but was smutty.
This loosely reported incident, however, only suggests the idea, that light and ab- sorbent soils, which are already in a state of cleanness and tilth, may be injured by a seed plowing; especially in a dry season.
Another instance of practice, however, is well deserving of notice. I saw a very good crop of WHEAT, growing on very light land. It was sown in September; the surface im- mediately dunged; the dung harrowed in, as a top dressing;.and afterwards incor- porated, still more effectually, with the soil,
188 AGRICULTURE.
by treading it in, with sheep; which not only fired the manure; but assisted in giv- ing the desired texture to the soil; beside being serviceable, in checking the ravages of the sodworm.
If it be right to grow wheat, on very light land, these appear to be eligible means, for obtaining a crop.
The HERBAGE of RYE is, here, a common crop; both for eating upon the ground, and for green forage; but chiefly for ewes and lambs.
In the middle of April, 1791, I saw ewes and lambs feeding on rye, which was then nearly a foot high; but the spring was forward. In the beginning of May,. the rye was in ear; yet still sheep were upon it; gathering the tops; and leaving the stubble, the height of the knee.
CULTIVATED HERBAGE. This is chiefly
or wholly CLOVER; and this, I believe, is seldom, if ever, suffered to remain in the ground, more than one year.
The reason given, for not keeping the arable lands, longer, in a state of temporary herbage, is, that the sodworms would de- stroy the wheat crop.
hich not lin giv. ; beside vages of
on Very e means,
common ground, for ewes
AW ewes vas. then ing Was May, the eve Upon wing the
is chielly believe, i in in the
aN the
npora'y wild de=
a
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 189
Remark. If this is really the fact; and
‘no method of preventing their mischiefs, by
clean tillage, or otherwise, can be struck out, the present practice may be right. But
the soil, itself, is well adapted to the Nor-
folk practice, of a crop of clover the first year, and a spring crop of raygrass the se- cond; breaking up the second year’s ley, as soon as the spring shoot of raygrass is pastured off, and fallowing the soil, through the summer, for wheat. A practice which appears to be peculiarly suited to the Dis- trict of Petworth; as the spring shoot of raygrass would be found highly serviceable, in the ewe-and-lamb husbandry, which will be mentioned: and the fallowing might be
still more advantageous, in destroying the
vermin.
SAINFOIN. An instance of sainfoin flourishing op a poor, uncalcareous, sandy spot of ground, within the District now under view, being evidenced, in such a man- ner, as to leave no doubt of the fact,[ made a point of examining the field where it grew, and inquiring into the circumstances that accompanied this interesting incident.
_ the subsoil, at the depth of two feet, is
== ag Eg RS= a~ ss Sab ee er=
190 AGRICULTURE.
a sheer sand, perfectly noncalcareous. The bottom of an interfurrow(about a foot be- low the general surface;—the field then in a state of fallow) was perceptibly calca- reous. Among the topsoil, some knobs, and many specks, of chalklike matter ap- peared; also some flints.
An elderly laborer, who knew the field, and the circumstances attending it, at the time it was in sainfoin, related to me,—that the first year’s crop was very good; full two loads an acre; the second year, too, it was good; but not so large as in the first; that the third year, it never rose to the sithe; and the fourth year, it was plowed up; some pasturage being all that was got from it, the two last years.
With respect to the chalky matter, found»
in the soil, he thinks it proceeds from lime, not from chalk or marl, as he never heard of its being dressed, with either; but the person to whom it then belonged, he says, limed very highly. Nevertheless, some of the knobs I picked up, wear no appearance of their having passed through fire; and the land may, heretofore, have been marled or chalked.°
os~ UR Sem CT eh TION ES Sian ce aaa es— ac ema
a
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 19t
me| This being as it may, it is sufficiently ths be evident, that the two profitable crops of then in sainfoin, which this field produced, was not y calca. the product of the natural soil; but were knobs, thrown out by the calcareous matter, that Mer ap- had been mixed with it. And it is very pro- bable, that all soils, that have been marled, he Held, chalked, or repeatedly limed, will give out If, at the a few crops of sainfoin; according to the 1e,—that quantity of calcareous matter they have re- od; ful ceived.: ', too, it HOPS. There are several small grounds, re first; in the District under view: particularly to the about the village of Byworru, in the plowed neighbourhood of Petworth; and that of Was got Lopswortu, situated at the point, where the three districts,—the Weald, the Sandy , found loam, and the Heaths,—may be said to form mm lime, their junction; and, what is remarkable, heard this small plot of country exceeds them all but the in fertility; being singularized by its grass he says lands, its orchards, and its hop grounds. some of In the MANAGEMENT of hop grounds, the pearalce Farnham practice is followed: and my chief o: and motive for mentioning them, here, is to show marled the eastward extent of that practice. See
the VaLLEY or FARNHAM.
q
192 AGRICULTURE.
ORCHARDS. The township of Bury, on the maam-soil lands, abounds with or- chard grounds. Ina bearing year, several hundred, even a thousand, hogsheads_ of cider are said to have been made, in this parish only.
The TREES are most noticeable. They are much lower, and stand closer on the ground, even than those of West Devon- shire. The filbert bushes of Maidstone, are many of them taller, and stand wider, than the'apple bushes of Bury. They.are chiefly, I was told, of a singular variety, which grows freely, from cuttings, or rather slips, plucked from the boughs; and that may account for the shrubbiness of their growth. This variety is called, there, the‘ sweet apple,” which may be an object of cultiva- tion, in other places.
An instance occurred to me, in the Dis- trict under view, of the hardiness of the apple blossom; at least ina season, when there is a sufficient strength of blow. On the twelfth of May, there was ice, as thick as the half= crown piece; many ash trees were much
injured, by the frost; yet the blossoms of the-
apple remained bright, and in full vigor.
of Bury, With op. r, Several heads of °s IN this
& They Xt On the st Devon. Istone, are ider, than e chiefly, ', which ier slips, hat may t growth, > sweet ' cultiva-
the Dis- the apple n there is ie twelfth the half ve much nisof the vigor
DISTRICT OE PETWORTH. 19;
HORSES. In speaking of the manage- ment of horses, in YorKsuHIRE, I mention- ed an idea, that had been suggested to me, respecting the probable advantage to be gained, by the sPAYING OF MARES; not being apprized, at that time, of its ever having been attempted, to be carried into practice.
In this District, however, it has been car-.
ried into effect. I saw a mare, in 1791, then rising five or six years old, which was spayed, at eight days old, by a colt-cutter, in the neighbourhood of Petworth.
She was a well bred mare, and of a size proper for hunting. The farmer, to whom she belonged, asked seventy guineas for her: a proof that, in his esteem, at least, she had not been injured by the operation.
It is proper to be mentioned, here, that the tenants of the Petworta ESTATE, who are desirous of breeding hunters, or saddle horses, of a superior quality, have the pri- vilege of sending their mares, to the first blood horses in the kingdom, gratis; except the usual fee, to the groom. This is a spe- cies of generosity, which brings its own reward; by furnishing the country with
VOL: 11. O
194 AGRICULTURE.
valuable horses; and by their comparatively high prices enriching the estate. CATTLE. In the WEstT oF ENGLAND, 1 hazarded some general remarks, on the different BREEDS or varieties of cattle, that are at present established in this Island; as well as on their probable origins. The Sus- SEX BREED are there considered, as one of the
purest branches of the native, or ancient
stock of the Island; and as agreeing, in almost every essential character, with the present breeds of DevonsHIRE, and HERE- FORDSHIRE: and I have not, since pub- lishing those remarks, had any reason, to alter that opinion.
In East Sussex, as in North Devonshire, the breed has long possessed the largest size, and, in many respects, the best form; though, on the borders of Kent, as has been already noticed(see WEALD or KENT) some individuals possess too much of the square- ness, and gumminess, of the old short-
horned, or Dutch breed. Nevertheless, as.
has likewise been intimated, there are in- dividuals, in that part of Sussex, and in the Weald of Kent, which are apparently free from that base admixture of blood,and which
= a
2 a Te SL PT ol ree = Se
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 195
Patative are of a size, and ina form, equal to the : best of the South Herefordshire cattle. On NGLAND, the contrary, in the West. of Sussex, as in s, on the the West of Devonshire, a thinness of flesh; ttle, that and carcass, has been the prevailing cha- land; as racter.
The Sus- Lorp MontTacuE(the predecessor of the one of the late Lord) paid much attention to the breed: Of ancient and raised it toa degree of excellence. In reeing, in 1791, I saw the remains of the Cowdry with the stock: among them, eight oxen, in a car- id Here- riage, which were, I think, the finest and We pub- most valuable team of oxen, I have any eason, to where seen. In Sussex, his Lordship is said
to have effected this great improvement,
avonshite solely, by the means of Sussex cattle, drawn ne largest from the eastern parts of the county. But vsitintt a gentleman of Devonshire assured me, that he Gon the North Devonshire breed had some share 7) some in the improvement. And, judging from the e square cleanness, color, and form, of some of the Th ce individuals I saw, this was probably the heless, ai: tania
ian Whatever was the real source of the breed in the of Cowpry, West Sussex has the less to ‘ih fet regret, in the loss of it, since Lorp Ecrer- -dihichd MONT is carrying o the patriot work of 3 2
196 AGRICULTURE.
improvement, with unequalled zeal; and on a broader basis, than that on which it has, heretofore, been pursued, in any part of the Island; and to the PETWoRTH BREED, it is highly probable, the county, and the coun- try at large, will, hereafter, look up for the point of excellence.
His Lordship, having no confined view to direct him, nor any narrow prejudice to warp his intentions, has blunted provincial jealousies, by indiscriminately selecting from the three kindred breeds, of Sussex, HERE- FORDSHIRE, and DEVON, individuals of the first quality; and breeding, from these, as from one and the same stock: keeping steadily in view, the three essential qualifi- cations of cattle; namely, WORKING, the DAIRY, and GRAZING.
To promote this conflux of the purest
blood of the three varieties, and of course’ their general improvement, his Lordship, a few years ago, instituted EXHIBITIONS of cattle, of these breeds; and distributed RE= WARbs, to those who’ produced the most perfect individuals; no matter from which of the three varieties their blood might
happen to spring.
beit Islan thre i MEN Dis here N Was pra belie tice other teared pet North
Zea)+ ani oy ‘hich it by ) part of thy BREED, It j id the coun. K up for the
hed view to prejudice ty fed provineil electing fro SSEX, Herp duals of the m these, a Ks keeping ntial quali ORKING, tle
"the purest d of cours Lordship, 1{BITIONS Of stributed RE; ved the most from which ood might
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 197
The improvement which has been already made(1797) by these truely noble and pa- triotic exertions, is evident, in the young stock now rearing; and the more PuBLIc
-sHows, which, to forward those exertions,
have been appointed to be held, annually, at Lewes, cannot fail, so long as they are conducted, on the same basis, and in the same disinterested, public-spirited manner, to prove a lasting benefit, to tlhe Southern Counties, and the kingdom at large; there being no other established breed in the Island, equal to those under notice, for the three essential purposes of cattle.
In the GENERAL ECONOMY, or MANAGE- MENT Of CATTLE, I noticed nothing, in the District under view, that requires a place,
here; except the method of
Rearino cAtves. In this particular,(as was noticed in the last District) the Sussex practice is singular; essentially differing, I believe, from every other established prac-
‘tice of the Island, at the present day. In
other parts of England, calves are either reared wholly by hand(not being at all permitted to suck their dams), as in the north of YORKSHIRE; or are suffered to
198 AGRICULTURE.
remain at the teat, a few days, and are then fed with milk, gruel, or other nourishing food, in the pail, for several months; until they are finally turned abroad, to grass and water: the process of rearing calves being, —for an obvious reason, that of collecting dairy produce,—different from the more na-
tural way of rearing every other species ~ of domestic animals. Whereas, in Sussex, horses, cattle, sheep, and swine may be said to be reared, in the same manner.*
Before the invention of pails, this was necessarily the prevailing practice; which would seem to have been handed down, in Sussex, from that time, to the present. In early spring, young calves, as young pigs, are seen loose with their dams, in the yards;
and, afterwards, in the field, as foals or
lambs! While the calves are young, the cows afford a greater or less surplus of milk; and, after the weaning of the calves, they are brought, wholly; into the dairy.
* In the MipLAND Countries, and more or less, in other places, it is not unusual to rear bull calves, and perhaps highbred heifers, at the teat; but seldom at their dam’s; ordinary cows being bought in, for this particular purpose, and afterward fatted, as grazing stock.
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 199
The age of weaning is from ten to twelve weeks; when the calves are put, solely, upon grass; without milk, and without wa- ter! Another singular point of practice; which appears to be entitled to attention. The motive assigned, for not allowing them water, is that of preventing their becoming * pig-bellied”: and, while they have a full bite of succulent herbage, especially in a moist season, this point of the Sussex prac- tices is probably well founded; and should be tried, with due caution, in other countries.
SHEEP. This is, naturally, a sheep dis- trict; and it has not only adopted them, in preference to cattle; but has fallen into a routine of practice, to which, by situation also, it is well adapted: namely, that of
providing EARLY GRASS LAMB, or rather
FIELD LAMB, for the METROPOLIS: a prac- tice which is the more profitable, as it is
» confined, I believe, toa few districts. WeEstT
Sussex, and the IsLE or WicuT are the only ones, in which I have particularly ob- served it.|
The sresp, which are applicable to this species of sheep farming, is the Dorsetshire,
200 AGRICULTURE.
or house lamb breed:(see West or ENG LAND).
The PLACE OF PURCHASE is principally, or wholly, Weybill; being brought, to the Michaelmas fair, full of lamb, from Devon- shire, and the other more Western Counties. (See as above.)
The desired TIME OF LAMBING is about a month before Christmas.
Their roop isthe herbage of the stubbles and leys, from Michaelmas to near the time of lambing; and, from thence, on turneps, tares, rye, and other cultivated herbage.
The TIME oF saLeE, I believe, generally commences about the beginning of April; and lasts, during the whole of that month, and part of May; thus supplying the mar- ket, until grass lamb be ready.
The PLACES OF SALE are Smithfield, andthe different markets, in London; particularly, { understand, Leadenhall market: where they are sold by commission BUTCHERS; who take the charge of them, from the farm; slaughter them; and sell the quarters, to the retail butchers; accounting, to the far- Mer, for the gross amount of the sale; to-
es
ie
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 20%
gether with the sale price of the pelt and offal.|
The price which the commission butchers accounted for, in the middle of April, 1791, was seven pence, a pound, for the quarters, with about three shillings a head, for the otial.
But, at present(1797), the early lambs, from this quarter of Sussex, are chiefly, I understand, sold alive, in Smithfield.
The pIsPposSAL OF THE EWES is effected in two ways. Ifa farmer have plenty of food left, after the Jambs are sold off, he’ throws his ewes into a flush of keep, and gives them the ram. I observed ewes(off which lambs had just been taken) with a ram among them, picking off the heads of rye coming into ear, the third of May; and, urged by this stimulating food, they were expected to receive the ram, in about a week from that time. On the contrary, if his food has been expended, on the lambs, he sells his ewes, to those who have a suitable provi- sion made for them.
“.Ewes impregnated, at this early season of the year, become valuable to the HousE LAMB FARMERS; whoeither purchase them,
2.02 AGRICULTURE.
immediately of the field lamb farmer, as his food is exhausted; or of a sort of MIDDLE MEN, who make a business of purchasing the suckling ewes of the latter, as soon as their lambs go off; and, having’ suitable food prepared for them, procure the early impregnation required; afterwards, sup- plying the small house lamb farmers, near London, with such lots as they may want.
Remark. Thus, the practice under no- tice forms a requisite link, in the chain of rural transactions, which supply the metro- polis, with winTER LAMB. Such ewes, as the West of England sheep farmers cannot send up, forward enough in lamb, for that purpose,(and which is necessarily all those that have reared their last lambs) are pur- chased, by the field lamb farmers; who, by fatting their produce, early in the spring, gain an opportunity of bringing them for- ward enough, the ensuing autumn, for the purpose of the house lamb farmer: who continues to use them, as suckling ewes, so long as their milk lasts; and, then, either sells them to the grazier; or sends them back to the middleman; and, by that means,
a
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 203
another prodiice of early house lamb is ob- tained.
What. renders the District of Petworth favorable to this practice, is not so much its being situated, in some degree, between the West of England and the environs of Lon- don, as its being one of the few Districts, in which even the Dorsetshire ewes can be in- duced to receive the ram, soon enough, for the profitable purpose of producing early winter, or Christmas lamb.
SWINE. Another practice, peculiar, perhaps, to West Sussex, as I have not met with it in any other part of the Island, is that of sumimering store swine, in marshes; treating them as a species of grass land, or PASTURING STOCK.
This singular practice I observed, on the
*«brook lands,” at the junction of the Arun
‘and the Rother, between Pulborough and Arundel; and on these, principally, I be- lieve, the practice is pursued, on a large scale.
At the time I had an opportunity of ob- serving it(about the middle of April) the season had barely commenced: nevertheless, then, there were many spread over the area ofthe Marshes, grazing as sheep on commons.
a eee
aspaar—wonein
ELODIE I er
Rial
204 AGRICULTURE.
Beside their own stock, the Marsh far- mers take in joist, or agistment swine, at the low price of half a crown, a head, for the summer; namely, from the beginning of May, to the middle of September: with, however, one shilling a head, more, to the swine herd, for his care and attention: thus paying, for near twenty weeks, fortytwo pence; or somewhat more than twopence, a head, a week.
Pigs of almost every size, and age, and of any breed, are sent to those brook land pastures; but chiefly, I understand, grow- ing store hogs, from three or four, to ten or twelve months old. Even sows in pig are sometimes kept there, until they farrow.
The fences of these Marshes are sewers, or water ditches; which are found sufficient to confine the young hogs; though the older sometimes break away.
From what I gathered on the subject, it appears, that store hogs, which are sent to those Marshes, in tolerable condition, will retain that state, and increase considerably, in size; especially, if the season prove dry. Under these circumstances, the usual im- provement is five to ten shillings, a head.
——
_
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH: 205
On the contrary, if they are sent in, poor, and a wet summer ensue, many of them die of the rot; and those, which survive, make little improvement.
Upon the whole, it appears to me pro- bable, that swine will not be found, in this Island, a profitable species of pastur- ing stock: at least, while the valuable breeds of cattle and sheep, which it is at present possessed of, are to be had, in suificient plenty. Asan attendant on the dairy, the farm yard, and the cottage that has a suf- ficiency of garden ground annexed to it, the hog is a most valuable species of domestic animal.*
* Grass Pork. I must not, however, omit to mention, here, an interesting experiment, made by my Lord Egremont, on fatting porkers, at grass. This ex- periment was made, with the‘‘ white Chinese,”’ a neat small breed of pigs.‘They were put, at six or seven months old, into a suite of fatting deer paddocks, in the month of May, and remained, there, until October; when the pork was firm, finely flavored, and the color peculiarly delicate. This experiment suggests the idea, that, by allowing grazing hogs a small quantity of corn, to give the flesh the requisite me/lowness, pork of a su- perior quality,—and of singular purity,—may be pro- duced.
206.» AGRICULTURE,
A practice of cottagers, in this part of the Island, with respect to the animal under notice, is well entitled to attention, in every other. During the spring and summer months, every laborer, who has industry, frugality,and conveniency sufficient, to keep a pig, is seen carrying home, in the even- ing, as he returns from his labor, a bundle of““HoG WEED;—namely, the beracleum sphondylium, or cow parsnep; which is here well known to be a nutritive food of swine. Children, too, are sent out, to collect it, in by roads, and on hedge banks. And there may be other weeds, if trial were made, that might be found equally nutritious.*
DEER. Another extraordinary practice of West Sussex remains to be noticed.
In every quarter of the kingdom, it has been prevalent, of late years, to dispark, wholly or in part, the deer which had been occupying, unprofitable, no inconsiderable
* Cow PARSNEP.‘The early and rapid growth of this plant has, long ago, and frequently, struck me. Not only swine, but sheep and rabbits, are partial to it. Surely, its cultivation should be attempted, Its seeds are most easily collected. As green forage, for hogs, it could not fail of being profitable.
T
DISTRICT OF PEFWORTH. 207
‘portion of its lands, for some centuries past;
and to supply their places, with sheep: thus rendering the demesne lands of benefit to the public, as well as profitable to their owners.:
In Sussex, similar advantages have been obtained through somewhat different means. Here, instead of driving away the deer, and introducing sheep, the former have been converted to profit. And although the public benefit may not be so great, from venison and deer skins, as from mutton and wool, there seems to be no impropriety at- tached to the practice, of sending the for- mer to market; a practice which is here followed, though not by men of the highest rank, yet by men of good fortune, and the first character.
RABBITS. This diminutive, but in many cases profitable, species of farm stock, is not uncommon, in this part of Sussex. But, here, as throughout every part, I be- lieve, of theSou THERN CouNTIES, they may be said to remain in a state of nature; without fences to confine them. But, surely, on many of the lighter lands of this District, INCLOSED WARRENS, partially cultivated, as
-
a
2.08_ AGRICULTURE.
in the North of England, might be found very advantageous.
STATE OF HUSBANDRY. Seeing the soil of this District, and the peculiar advan- tage of its situation, with respect to the house lamb breed of sheep, the oUTLINE of management appears to be judicious. But a want of due attention to MINUTI#, or particular points of practice, is everywhere evident. In returning to the District, in the autumn of 1791, after having examined, with more or less attention, the several districts between this and the Land’s End, the first notice I find in my Journal stands, literally, thus:—* the foulest plot of coun- try I have seen since I left it!” And this, notwithstanding the unnecessary expence that is betowed on its culture.
IMPROVEMENTS... The first and greatest improvement is, obviously, that of RECLAIMING THE LANDS, from their present: state of FoULNEss. And, in doing this, to adopt a PLow TEAM suitable to the soil; and thus reduce the expence of tillage, to little more than half of what it costs, at present. Two oxEN, ofa suitable age, and seasoned to their work, with one man and
nd
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 209
a proper implement, are abundantly suffi- cient, to perform what I have repeatedly Seen six, sometimes eight oxen, with a man and a youth, or perhaps two men, em-~ ployed upon!*
By UNDERDRAINING, much improvement might be made; especially, on the southern side of the District. I observed many in- stances, in which low moory grounds would pay, five fold, for the operation,—if pro- perly conducted.
By WATERING, still more is to be done, on that side of the river. The calcare- ous brooks and rivulets, that rise, wholly, or in part, at the feet of the Chalk Hills, would pay, amply, for the expence of con- ducting them over the grass lands, that lie low enough to receive them. In 1791, I observed only one suite of grounds, that be-
_mefited, in any sort, by this natural advan-
tage. At that time, however, another smal- ler plot was undergoing the operation. And numberless other sites were aptly placed, to receive it. Even the waters of the Ro- ther, which receives part of its supply from the same source, would, it is highly pro- * See Beasts or LAgour, page 171: VOL. 11. P
es
210 AGRICULTURE.
bable, be found a profitable, as well as a copious, means of this improvement.
Tenants, however, might with great Ju- ness reply, to these proposals—* It would be imprudent,'in us, to set about such im- provements, unless we had some certainty of reaping the benefit of them:” and, doubt- less, the first step towards agricultural im- provements,—is that of GRANTING LEASES. Even the ruinous state of foulness, in which the lands of this District remain, may find some excuse, in the uncertainty of the te- nancy, under which, I understand, they are principally held.
This FOUNTAIN OF IMPROVEMENTS be~ longs to PROPRIETORS; and it is ever their interest, independent of all other considera- tions, to set the example of good will to- wards men, and to sow the seeds of im- provement, upon their estates; that they may take root, grow up, and flourish, with their tenantry; who, on a leased estate, have not only the example before them, but the more powerful motive of their own in- terest, in view.
The rapid decrease in the value of money, that has been going on, for the last twenty
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. art
years(owing to a banefully impolitic in- flux of circulating paper) and the conse- quent nominal rise, in the rents of lands, has deterred many men of landed property: from granting leases, of a sufficient length, to induce spirited tenants, to lay out their money, in the requisite improvements: thus smothering the very principle, which it is their best interest to cherish.
Twentyone years is the term coveted, by an improving tenant; and, when such im- provements, as draining, watering, and mar]- ing are required, a shorter term cannot, in itself, indemnify a tenant. Hence, it is in- dispensably necessary, to the improvement of an estate, on which draining, watering, marling, or any other permanent, or lasting improvement is to be made, either to grant a term of sufficient length; or to make the re- quisite improvements at the proprietor’s own expence; or to indemnify the tenant, for the remainder of such improvement, at the expiration of his term.-
Beside, there is one general argument held out, against leases, of any determinate length, and in favor of letting estates re- main at will, or from year to year, When
Pe
21% AGRICULTURE.
a tenant knows, with certainty, the end of his term, he arranges his plan accordingly, and strives, by every means, to exhaust and impoverish his farm; and, in cases of ran- cor and ill blood, between landlord and tenant, not unfrequently, at his own cost. Indeed, some cases of this kind have fallen under my observation.
These circumstances led me, many years ago, to a principle of management, which, I conceive, ought to be adopted on every estate, which is under leases, for terms cer- tain: namely, that of coming to a clear understanding, with the tenant, three years previously to the expiration of bis term; and either to renew his lease, at that time; or, in case of non-agreement, to look closely to his management, during the remainder of his term: for, until within three years of the expiration of the term, the interests of the Jandlord and the tenant, in the ordinary routine of husbandry, are the same. A te- nant, previously to that time, cannot(unless in a few instances) injure his landlord, with- out, at the same time, injuring himself. But about that time, their interests begin to se- parate. The farm may be in a sufficient
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 213
state of melioration and tillage, to last out the term, with little addition of labor or manure; and it is a matter of indifference, to him, in what state of foulness and steri- lity, it is left; provided his interest, on the whole, has been benefited.‘The conse- quence is, the farm is worth less, to an in- coming occupier, than it would have been, if it had gone on, in the regular course of husbandry.
But obviously true, as this is, it never struck me, until lately, that a RUNNING LEASE might be advantageously forined, on these principles.
Finding, however, an insuperable objec- tion to long leases becoming, more and more prevalent; yet, seeing the sort of necessity, which there is, for giving tenants, on every estate, more than six months’ certainty of their holdings} I was led to apply the prin- ciple, in a way, which, I conceive, may be- come of general utility.
On the two estates, on which I have had opportunities of proposing this species of tenancy, it has been adopted; and, on one of them, has been already carried into effect.
SS
214 AGRICULTURE.
The outline is simply this. A term is granted for six YEARS CERTAIN(or a great- er number, as NINE YEARS, according to circumstances), and, thence, from THREE YEARS to THREE YEARS, so long as both parties shall agree. That is to say, if, at or before the end of three years, neither party do give notice to the other, to quit, at the expiration of the term of six years, the term becomes lengthened to ning YEARS; and if, at the end of six years, no such notice is given, then it is further prolonged to TWELVE YEARS; and so on, CONTINUALLY, until one of the parties shall give the re- quired notice. And, with the still farther security to the tenant, that, at the final ter- mination of the holding, he shall be az- LOWED for the REMAINDER of such IM- PROVEMENTS, as are of a permanent or durable nature, whatever three REFEREES shall deem such particular improvements to be worth, to the succeeding occupier: the general state of improvement resting, of course, with the estate.
The apvanracGEs of a lease of this nature are so obvious, as scarcely to require to be particularly pointed out. On the part of
DISTRICT‘OF PETWORTH. 255
the zenant, they are so evident, that even the most illiterate and unenlightened, to which it has been oftered, has embraced it, without hesitation. He has always from three to six years certainty, before him. At the
‘close of every three years, he has, in effect,
a new lease, of six years, granted him: and this without any anxiety, or wavering of conduct, on the score of uncertainty; without any time being lost, in meetings, attendance, and consultations; and, what is gratifying to a farmer, without the expence of a fresh pair of leases.
On the part of the proprietor, the advan- tages are equal. His estate(except such parts as may happen to be under notice to quit) is in the hands of men, who have an interest in cultivating it, to the best of their abilities: yet it is ever so far under his com- mand, that, in the course of a few years, he can regain possession; whether for the pur- pose of sale, exchange, laying out his estate to advantage, or to increase his rent roll. If, in the latter case, the tenant, on notice given, agree to the required rise, the course of management, and the prosperity of the estate, proceed, uninterrupted.
216 AGRICULTURE.
i The covenanTs of a lease, on this prin- pal ciple, ought, of course, to be governed, by Bs! i the given circumstances of the estate;— its wp
5 soils, situation, and established course of) oM
F management. In any case, it is evident, wa a that the ordinary restrictions, which a lease nu 1 of this nature requires, are comparatively tet
few: but that extraordinary regulations, to 1 take place after notice given, should not tu only be entered into, but diligently enforced;| so that the farm, during the last three years| A of the term, may be brought into the most desireable succESSION OF CROPS; with suit-
able FALLows: and be left, at the expira~ tion of the term, in such a state of CLEAN-~, NESS and TILLAGE, that the succeeding oc-| cupier may be able, without difficulty or| extraordinary cost, to crop and stock it, immediately, and in like manner, as if he had himself occupied it, during the three preceding years, agreeably to the best prac- tice of the country it lies in.
Every department or district requires, and every estate may adopt, a separate CODE OF REGULATIONS, suitable to given circumstances. One which I conceive to be adapted to the Wesr of ENGLAND, and
DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 217
particularly to my Lorp HEaTHFIELD’s ESTATE, in East DEVONSHIRE, I have drawn up with attention.
My motive for bringing the subject for- ward, in this place, is not solely for the purpose of recommending this species of tenancy, to the proprietors of West Sussex; but to embrace the first favorable oppor- tunity of bringing it before the public: as I know no estate, on which it may not be profitably adopted.
< Paarl ne!
ea coree aie 2 Va 8
OF
8 USS Bae
THE SITUATION, of this extraor- dinary passage of country, is between the southern division of the Chalk Hills, and the English Channel: extending, eastward, with a narrow point, to near Brighthelms- ton; and, westward, to near Portsmouth: comprizing the Isle of Selsey, and other islands and peninsulz, towards the western extremity.
The INFORMATION, which I am pos- sessed of, respecting this fertile District, was gained in three different views of it: first, in tracing it lengthway from Bright- helmston, by Shoreham and Arundel, to
= side ati aase
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 219
Chichester, in the wane of April, 1791: next, in an excursion from Petworth, through the more central parts of it, in the middle of May: and, lastly, in acircuit, from Chi- chester, by Bracklesome, to the Isle of Sel- sey, and thence to Chichester and Ports- mouth(on my leaving Sussex, for the Isle of Wight and Devonshire), in the early part of October, in the same year.
The EXTENT, or superficial contents, cannot be readily estimated. The length is about forty miles; and the width, in some parts, three or four, in others, five or six miles; but, to the east of the Arun, it is narrow; and much of the western part is occupied by water. The main body of the District lies, between Arundel and Ems- worth, distant: about seventeen miles; and the medium width, of this part, may be reckoned at five miles-; so that this, alone, contains upwards of eighty square miles; and the whole may be estimated at more than a hundred square miles.
Its ELEVATION, above the surface of the sea, is inconsiderable. Indeed, some parts of it still lie below the level of high water. Much of the arable land does not
ES Bee
2.20 DISTRICT.
appear to lie, more, than three feet, above high water mark; and scarcely any part of the sixtyfour thousand acres under view, rises more than five or six feet, above the level of spring tides. Water is seen stag- nant, in the ditches and sewers, to near the surface of the cultivated lands, in almost every part of the District; the center of the Isle of Selsey excepted.*
The ATMOSPHERE of this District, immediately connected, as it is, with that of the ocean, on one side, and of the Chalk Hills, on the other,(both of them prover- bially pure) is unwholesome: occasioned, probably, by the stagnant waters that in- tersect its area. Agues are prevalent. To agriculture, however, the climature is favor- able: the harvest is forward, and the crops abundant: owing principally, no doubt, to
* The IsLe oF SELSEY. This, doubtless, has once been an island; but is, at present, attached, by a narrow isthmus, to the main land. Nevertheless, during high spring tides, the water which filters through the gravelly beach, that defends the flat country, to the west of the island, makes its way, across the isthmus, into the inlet or estuary, on the north and east sides of the island, This circumstance I had an opportunity of observing,
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 22% Ove the soil; but may not the same putrescent Of effuvia which are imurious to animal health, W, be serviceable to vegetation? Ie The surplus WATERS that fall on the 4 area, and overflow the ditches, either find le their way, into the brooks and estuaries, or st are let out, immediately into the sea, at the ie sluices, formed in the sea fence, which will
be mentioned.
ot) The SOIL of this productive flat of land at is, invariably, a deep, rich loam; except at k the immediate foot of the Chalk Hills, where
‘ it is lighter and less fertile; a mixture of sand and gravel; and, in some parts, mere :‘ beach,” or sheer flinty gravel,
0 The SUBSOIL is more various. Ata ‘- short distance from the feet of the hills, west of the Arun, the flinty gravel dips, : and is covered with the loamy soil, just men-
tioned. Still more towards the sea, the top- soil rests on a paler colored loam; and, on | the coast, the soil, there three or four feet | deep, lies ona bed of marl or chalk; which, at a smal] distanee from the shore, breaks out into the sea; and probably, is the pre- vailing sussTRUCTURE, of the entire flat.
Baie? ear,
22:2 DISTRICT.
GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. It is impossible to view a passage of country, like this, which wears so many marks of its being a creation of the present world,—of its having been formed, since the surface of the earth re- ceived its present configuration,—without suffering the mind to make some attempts towards discovering the means, by which nature’s laws have formed so valuable a production. The levelness of surface, the beach found at the foot of the hills, and the superincumbent silt, mud, or loam(si- milar to that of sea marshes) and the im- mediate vicinity of the sea,—all show it to be the production of that powerful artist: who(a poetic mind might feign) having repented of his work, is now demolishing it. It has probably been of much greater extent, than it is at present. In 1791, the churchyard of Middleton was nearly torn away, and the church itself in danger; be- ing then, but a few yards out of the reach of the waves. At Selsey and Bracklesome, similar depredations were going on, the highest grounds, by giving the greatest re- sistance, suffer the most.
==——== TT a aes= ——— Se MOP ae——s se‘,= es———
ee
= Sa ne ee
SEA COAST. OF SUSSEX. 223
It also belongs to these remarks, to no-= tice a natural phenomenon, which takes place, near the foot of the chalk hill, above Walberton: where, a number of dimples, dry basons, provincially« dell holes,’ have been formed, and are still forming, by some invisible agent: doubtless, by the waters, absorbed by the chalk, and, falling down to the base of the hill, there finding a subter- ranean passage, to the sea; carrying with it, of course, what loose matter it meets with. And, if observations were made, it would probably be found, that the sinking of the surface happens, about the time that the bourns of chalk hills usually break out; the phenomenon, under notice, being pro- bably caused, by a susTERRANEAN BOURN, that break out, into the sea, at the same season.*‘ bie
SEA FENCE. The great PUBLIC WORK of this District is the sea fence, which, in some parts, may be said to preserve its ex- istence, as a culturable country. In the parts, above noticed, where the sea is tear- ing away‘the highest and best lands, no fence I believe is attempted; the water, there, being deep, by reason of the reflux
224 7 DISTRICT.
of the waves, on having met with resistance. And, even could“ grynes” be formed, the recoil would prevent the requisite accumu- a tion of materials, to form the fence.
In some parts, as that mentioned to the west of Selsey, a NATURAL FENCE is thrown up, by the sea. There are not, at least, any signs, at present, of art having been used. This fence consists of a high narrow ridge of flinty gravel; showing a steep face on the land side, of ten or more feet in height; the side, towards the sea, being less steep;— shelving with a gentle slope, under deep water.* The sea rises, of course, to the top of the bank(the gravel having been thrown up by it), and, in tempestuous weather, doubtless, breaks over it. I rode upon it, during a high tide, and a strong southerly wind, when the water rose, to within three feet of the top; while the eye, when riding at the foot of the bank, on the margin of the marshes, could not perceive the waves:
* Resembling, in a striking manner, the artificial bank or“ sea wall’ of Romney Marsh! The bold un- dertaker of that great. work having, perhaps, copied the beach banks, in its neighbourhood.
if
ev
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 20
Wr
even, then, it was four or’ five feet above the level of the marshes.
Remarks. The natural law, by which these gravel banks, or natural sea walls, are formed, appears to be, simply, that of an impelling force, without recoil, or counter- action. The loose gravel, deposited at the bottom of the ocean, is forced up, by the violence of the waves; which, meeting with no resistance, spend themselves, and return leisurely; leaving the gravel thrown up, in the place, or nearly in the place, where they lodged it; every succeeding wave im- pelling it forward, until it reach the extent of their force; and, of course, has been raised to a height, which cannot be over- topped, but- by an effort, equal, or nearly equal, to that which raised it.
In the early stages of growth, of a bank of this nature, every high tide, and every tempestuous wave, breaks over it; and, in this state, it is injurious, rather than useful, to the lands that lie behind it: the wa- ters rushing upon them with double force. Hence, probably, the low flat of marshes, behind the line of beach under notice: the soil and subsoil having probably been torn
VOL. II. ro)
ad
-
226 DISTRICT.
away, by this means, and carried into the estuary, to the eastward of the island.
In this view of the formation of beach banks, it is evident, that no other material, than gravel, or small stones, can be em- ployed. It must be of such a nature, that the waves can move it, with freedom; yet heavy enough to lie firmly where it is lodged; until it be impelled forward, by another wave. It must neither be of a perishable, nor a volatile nature; but such as neither wind, nor water(unless ina violently agitat- ed state) can move. Sand is capable of being forced up, by the sea, as gravel, into banks or, ridges; but, in that state, it only be- comes more liable to the sport of the winds, than it is on a level surface. And unless it be arrested, by natural or artificial means, it is presently blown back into the sea, or scattered over the adjoining lands.*
_ On that part of the coast, under notice, where marl and loam form the shore, or margin of the sea, an ARTIFICIAL FENCE is
* For an account of the MARRAM BANKS, Or na- tural sea walls of the Coast of NorFork, see the Rural Economy of that County, Vol. Il. Min: 106. See also Romney Mars, in Vol. I. p. 392.
er
ats—— a on— a ae ana;
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX 234 > the obliged to be made, at a great expence; to catch what little gravel, or hard materials, each are thrown up by the waves. This is ef- rial, fected by two lines of strong dwarf paling, em- placed a few feet from each other; forming the cases, provincially“ grines,” to retain what- ayy ever is thrown into, them; and, it is pos- ped; sible, that the beach banks, above described, other may have had their origin, in asimilar ex- able, pedient.* This, however, being as it may, ther the artificial fences are not yet sufficient, to 'itat- prevent very high tides from overflowing eng them, to the damage of the country. I saw anks a fine piece of wheat very much injured— - in part destroyed—by the sea having broke rinds, in upon it. ess it Perhaps Marram(arundo arenaria)«or eas, some other marine plant, might assist“in a, oF * These banks reach, from the Isle of Selsey, to Bracklesome, where a Roman Causeway commences: oticg, and it may have been originally formed, to prevent the 2. of flat country, between the landing place and Chichester,’ ,,.° eh, from being inundated. 4 ssc Tradition, however, relates, that, during a violent gale of wind, a gap was torn, in this beach bank; and that, fa after every human endeavor had been employed, in, vain, tural to repair the breach, another tempest‘nadé good the , alsa
defect. This renders it probable, that/it is, originally, a work of the waves.
O2
Cd
ibe
2:28 DISTRICT.
raising the beach, in these parts, more ra- pidly, and firmly, than the grines alone. TIDE MILLS. The inlets and creeks, with which the western quarter of the Dis- trict, in particular, abounds, are frequently turned to a valuable purpose; by which innumerable. situations, of a similar kind, on every coast of the kingdom, might pro- Gt. Yet the tides continue to flow into them, in vain; while river mills are suffered to destroy, or injure, land of the first qua- lity; and prevent the improvement of still more, that might be made highly valuable to society. On the contrary, tide mills, in- stead of wasting land, tend to create it. The method of obtaining a tide mill is, merely, that of running a dam, across the branch of an inlet, or estuary; leaving a narrow passage, generally near one end, and, at this gap or opening, to place the mill. A quantity of water being forced, by the tide, to the upper side of the dam, through valved sluices, made for this pur- pose, a mill pool is formed; and, with the water thus pent up, the mill is worked, until the return of the tide; when the pool, in a few hours, is again replenished.
: SEA COAST(OF SUSSEX, 229 OFre 14s. The foul water, forced up by the-tide, ane’ j being: kept long in a stagnant state, has reeks, 2. 7
Dj time to deposit its foulness; and thus tends, e Dis- 5 eventually, to convert the mill pool, into
ently a marsh, or meadow ground.
Vhich~ Remarks. I do not mean to speak of Kind, tide mills, as being peculiar to this part of ae Sussex; having observed them, in different kee parts of the Island: But, perhaps, there are ulered ten opportunities of erecting them neglect- t qua: ed, for one embraced: indeed, in’ many stil parts of the kingdom, they are unknown: luable and every means of lessening the number of s, in- RIVER MILLS; especially of those turned tL by brooks, and rivulets, in rich vale dis- nill iy, tricts; ought not only to be universally 8 the known, but to be forthwith applied. The ying’ a interests of agriculture, and the welfare of end, the country, demand it.
‘e the For WATER CARRIAGE, the District ed, by is singularly well situated. Each creek has > day its landing place. At Ford, near the mouth spill of the Arun, is a commodious wharf: and th the Chichester has its port or key, within a few rked, miles of it,.
pool, And, in ROADS, it is equally well ac-
commodated. Flinty gravel, the first of
i 5-— SSO— SE 7 Mn ie es observation, in the transient views I took of it, this District appears to comprize the most good wheat land, and to be, on the whole, the most valuable arable district, of equal extent, in the Island. There are dis- tricts of rich fen, or carse land, that, in a favorable season, may equal it in produc- tiveness; but there are few seasons, I ap- prehend, in which wheat, at least, may not be sown, witha degree of certainty, on the lands of the Sea Coast of Sussex.
GRASSLANDS. Of these a four fold distinction may be made. The rich upper- land GRAZING GRouNDs, in the eastern quar- ter of the main body of the District: the cooler, less productive MARSHES, and com- MONS, towards the western extremity: the “* BROOKLANDS’ or embanked salt marshes, by the sides and at the mouths of the estu- aries: and the“sLiprs,” or open marshes, liable to be overflowed, by every high tide, or extraordinary swell of the sea.
)
240_ AGRICULTURE.
The GRAZING GROUNDS are of a singu larly fertile nature. Some of them wear evl- dent vestiges of culture: others appear, as if they had never been broken up, by the plow.
Some of these old grasslands have, of late years, been subjected to aration; the tenants paying a valuable consideration, for the pri- vilege of plowing them.
The siiees are literally saltmarshes. The pools of water, that stand in the troughs and‘dimples, are salt to the taste: yet the herbage is highly saccharine.’ It consists, chiefly, of a short, rigid, bristly grass, like the hard and sheep’s fescues. Being, at the time I saw it, short, without seed stems, thin on the ground, and standing erect; the surface looked bald; and brown, almost,’as a fallow. Nevertheless, these lands are said to carry about''two sheep, an acre; to fat them very fast; and, in no case, to taint them with the rot.
This last is a fact which ought to be duly estimated, by every one, who attempts to explain the nature of that fatal disorder.
CATTLE. This is not a breeding dis- trict.‘The few DAIRY cows, J observed, were of various BREEDS; as Alderney, Welch,
Sings ar ey} as if low, ' late Nants : ri
. The oughs et the Isists, like the ems, , the Ist,as e said o fat taint
to be fempss der f lise )
were
elch,
SEA COAST OF SUSSEx. 24
Sussex. Of the last, however, I saw few. So that the middle-horned variety is con- fined, between the two lines of Chalk Hills. See WEALD oF Kent, Vol. I. page gso.
The FATTING CATTLE, which| saw, on the western bank of the Arun, were like- wise of different breeds; but, in general, of a superior quality: as East Sussex oxen of the largest and best-mold; worth to the grazier, as lean cattle, fifteen to eighteen pounds, a bullock, in 1791: also Pembroke- shire oxen of the first description; with some‘* West Country” oxen—apparently of Somersetshire—of a good quality.
These bullocks are chiefly purchased, and many of them sold when fatted, at fairs or stock markets, held every fortnight in the grazing season, at Chichester, and Arundel.
Of the SHEEP of this District I saw little. When I went over it, in May, the Lamps were gone to market; and, in the beginning of October, the fresh stock of EWEs had not arrived. The practice, with respect to early lambs, I understand, jis nearly the same, here, as in the District or PETWORTH.
The sheep which I saw, in the crazinc
GROUNDS, were chiefly wedders, of the West- VOL. 11. R
at me ST Ee ae TET PLS
242 AGRICULTURE.-
Down breed. There are none, I believe, reared within the District.
SWINE. The BREED, which I observed most prevalent, here, is.the mottled one, that is common to Berkshire, Hampshire, and Surrey; with a mixture of the Chinese, or other Oriental breed.
The only circumstance, that drew my notice, to this species of livestock, in the passage of country under view, was that of seeing them, in the middle of May, scat- tered over its area, in herds, away from ha- bitations, feeding on clover, tares, or other herbage, as a SPECIES Of PASTURE STOCK. Here, sows not only farrow, in the fields, but are said to rear their fares, there, on herbage and water alone!
Remarks. Possibly, there is something in the nature of these rich lands, peculiarly favorable to this species of stock. And the practice of treating them, as mere grami- yivorous animals, having gained an esta- blishment, here, proceeded by degrees, along the banks of the Arun, until it reached the district last treated of; where, meeting with a less fertile soil, it is confined to the brook- lands. See page 203.
i SG Oa TERRI Ta i aa me ss = Se Seren
: SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 242 elit STATE OF HUSBANDRY.® Ih-the obo foregoing sketch, the management of this , District appears, in a favorable point of
‘cae view; and, I believe, in its true light. The shire, dands, in every part, that I more particu- see larly observed, were free from offensive foul-
ness, and appeared to be in a good state of ny tillage: yet the QUANTITY Of TILLAGE given, in the t understand, is not great. that of Remarks. The husbandly state, in which ee this District, in general lies, is probably m hae owing to the absorbency of the soils, and the other depth of plowing, which appears to be com- TOCK. mon to the District; and which’ serves to helds, increase their absorbency; as well’ as to nal the rankness of the crops it bears. The soil,
it is said, is“not given to couch.”‘Tt cer- thing tainly is peculiarly free, from this pest of uliarly arable Jand. And even couch grass, though nd the present, may not flourish, in a soil which grarn bears a rank, close, thickset crop, every year, nesta: or whenever it is not undergoing a course along of tillage, or cleansing crop. It is thin, hed the weak crops, which give encouragement to p with| couch. Nevertheless, there may be some- rook- thing in these marine lands, that is un-
friendly to this weed.
Re
a 0 D ae
24.4 AGRICULTURE.
IMPROVEMENT. There are very few Districts, in which I have seen less to mend, than in the highly favored District under view. Measuring it by common rules, there is evidently a want of grass land, of natural or cultivated herbage, in the area of the principal flat. But a country capable of bearing five quarters of wheat, an acre, every second year, may require its own plan of management. Nevertheless, I am of opinion, that were more land kept in a state of HERBAGE; and, in consequence, a greater number of LivEsTocK maintained, the natural fertility of the soil might be
rendered more durable, than it probably’
will be, by the present exhausting course of management.
This being as it may, there is one great and evident improvement, to be made, on this passage of country: that of rendering it HEALTHY.:
I do not mean to represent the Sea Coast of Sussex, as being very unhealthy. It is but common policy, in those who occupy its lands, to speak of it, as being so. But there are, in reality perhaps, few arable dis-
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 245 aay tricts, of equal extent, that do not enjoy a less t better ai.| istrict It has been suggested, that the degree of rules, insalubrity which belongs to it, be it more nd, of or less, proceeds from the stagnant waters, , area that are suffered to remain, within its area. ipable These waters, not only encourage the pro- PAE) duction of insects, and reptiles, whose pu- 3 own trid remains pollute the air, in summer; but Tam they tend to load it with chilling vapors, in at In a the cooler months. If these are not the sole nce, a causes of its present unwholesomeness, no alned, one will deny that they contribute to it. it be To do away entirely, every appearance of bably: stagnant water, from so flat a surface, might course be found difficult. Yet, 1 am of opinion, that, by pursuing evident and known prin- reat ciples, every difficulty might be so far over- de, on come, as to render the entire District freer fering from surface water, than vale districts, in general, are. , Coast An ACT OF DRAINAGE, with commIs- — Itis SIONERS to see it executed, would, in course, cupy be the first step to be taken.* If merely But s dis* Since these remarks were written, I have been in-
formed that such commissioners are already empowered.
4 _-Saee
24.6 AGRICULTURE,
scowering the brooks and the rivulets, from the estuary or the sluice, up to the ditches and water furrows of the plowed lands, were found insufficient, te draw off the surplus of the water, which falls on the surface, DRAINING MILLS should be employ- ed, to quicken the draught. Tide mills, of a simple construction, might be employed to empty the receiving canals(if necessary) into the estuaries, and the ordinary wind mill of the Eastern Counties* might be made to throw it, with equal facility, into those receptacles; if such should be found necessary.
Filling up the present water fences, and every other unnecessary lodgement, and by these means, giving a free current to rain water, from the interfurrows in which it is collected, to the sea, would be the ultimate object, and the completion of the under- taking.
The cost of this improvement, even sup- posing it to require two sets of mills, would be inconsiderable, compared with the rental value of this plot of rich country. Even humanity, towards the lower class of inha-
* See NorFOLk, Vol.‘II. p. 282.
rivulets ) tO the plowed raw off On the mploy- nills, of nployed -0essatry) ry wind ight be ty, into e found
ces, and » and by to rain hich it is ultimate under-
vent Sips |s, would
‘he rental
, Evell of inha-
SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. a. Ag
bitants, who, by the laws of their country, are bound to abide by it, is a sufficient induce- ment, to effect it. And the increase of the rents of lands might repay the cost, with. tenfold interest. Perhaps, one set of mills, to raise the waters, at the sluices, and throw it into the estuaries, or the sea, would be found abundantly sufficient to effect the required improvement,
Se NE SS ae
\
——— ” 2 eee
Gree
; teh
THE ISLE| i
) Brit
oe«+ broat
ng
as
We kG. ook.|
pol
IN THE MONTH of October, 1791, in is my way from Sussex to Devonshire, I spent} toy a week, on the Isle of Wight; and not only} mel saw, but literally traversed, almost every viel square mile of its surface; by the following No routes, From Ryde, by Wotton Bridge, elt to Newport. Newport to St. Catherine’s, sep, Nighton, St. Laurence(under Cliff;) back, A by Appuldurcomb and Godshill, to New- Ta port. Newport, by Atherton and Ashey Soin Downs, to Brading; back(on the opposite tion side of the valley) by Sandown Marshes and 7 Fort, Lake, Shanklin(parish,) and Ather-| crcl ton, to Newport. Newport, by Caersbrook| hunch and along the Downs, te near Freshwater;| eh back by Thorley(near Yarmouth) Wellow, tha : i Xceed
ISLE OF WIGHT. 249
Green, Shafleet, Newtown, and across the forestyto Newport. Newport, by Gatcomb, and Chale(at* the Back of the Island”) Athersfield, Brixton,&c.; and back across Brixton Downs, by Idlecomb and Caers- brook, to Newport. And, beside these lengtheried rides, I examined, more leisure- ly, the neighbourhood of Newport; finally, tracing the line of country, between New- port and Cowes.
The SITUATION of the Iste or WIGHT is so well known, as not to require descrip- tion, here. It is, pretty evidently, a frag- ment, torn from the main land, in some violent struggle of contending elements. Not only the outlines, but the lands, on either side of the narrow sea which now separates them, answer to each other.
At present, it forms part of the county of Southampton; to which it has long been joined, politically, and to which, by situa- tion, it naturally belongs.
The EXTENT, supposing it equal to a circle of fifteen miles in diameter, is one hundred and seventyfive square miles; or one hundred and tea thousand acres.
In ELEVATION, the Isle of Wight exceeds most, er all, the British Isles, of
250| DISTRICT.
equal extent. The chalk cliffs of Fresh- water, and the rocky heights of St. Cathe- rine, vie with the cliffs of Dover. Never- theless, the north side of the Island, towards the main land, is comparatively low ground. But it is, and ever has been, out of the wa- ter’s way; except at the eastern eXtremity, about Brading, where there are some wa- terformed marsh lands.
Its SURFACE is strongly featured; but no where broken, or rugged; excepting the sea cliffs, to the south and west; and excepting some grotesque sandy hillocks, in the valley between Sandown and New- port. There is, nevertheless, peculiar va- riety, in the configuration of this valuable little fragment: a fair specimen of Albion’s fair self. It might, with little latitude, be said to possess every distinguishing charac-~ ter of the parent Island: bearing its very semblance, in the species and variety of its surface, its soils, and their productions.
What gives greater variety, to the face of this little Island, is a natural bisection; occasioned by a deep narrow valley, which divides it, into two nearly equal parts.
Through the middle of the western divi- sion runs a range of chalk hills, terminating
Fresh, Cathe. Never- Wards ‘ound, le Wa- emity, le Wa=
d; but epting 5 and locks, Ves T Vas luable lbion's de, be larac~ 3 Very of its 1S. 1¢ fave ctlOn§
yhich
divi- ating
ISLE OF WIGHT. 25%
in the Freshwater or Needle Cliffs. The north side of this’s back,” or ridge of naked downs, shelves, with an easy slope, to a flat vale country; resembling the vale Tands of Kent, Sussex, and various parts of England.
To the south of these hills, lies a singu- lar plot of‘country, called«the Back of the Island:’" comprizing about ten square miles of sandy lands; lying 1 In two stages. The upper stage, at the immediate skirts of the Chalk Hills,-has a billowy, varied sur- face; with a weak unproductive soil; the lower, is a flat of rich productive sandy loam. Yet, even this, lies twenty, thirty, or in some places, perhaps, forty feet above the tide: exposing a steep broken cliff; liable to be worn away, by tempestuous seas.
The eastern division is still more diversi- fied. The center is occupied by a chalk swell,(Ashey Down): but it is of small extent, and tame, comparatively with the western heights. To the north of this, is
a weak cold woodland district; varying
however in soil and surface; much resem- bling the upland parts of the wild of Kent and Sussex. See Vol, I. p. 336.
i 252 DISTRICT.
To the south of Ashey Down, lies the gage Valley of Sandown, or Brading, which f sth has been noticed, and which reaches from Ak near the center, to the eastern extremi- hee,& ty of the Island; where it terminates in supe! a barren gravelly flat, round Sandown fort, prot with marshes and mudbanks below Brading.| heigt Thence, along the coast, by St. Helen’s, to| whi Ryde, isan upland, wellsoiled line of country.| feet
On the south of Sandown Valley, the face[olf of the country rises, with a bold ascent, to and the heights of St. Chatherine; or rather a nan chain of heights, which reach from thence natu to Dunnose; appearing with strong moun- at th tain features; large rotund.knolls, sepa- its| rated, by deep sunk vallies, and coombs; and and, towards the sea, by gashes of an ex- hay traordinary kind;—provincially<< chines”;
—resembling the fissures, or dingles, of MS mountain scenery; and, like these, probably, a have been worn by the waters of heavy i rains, rushing headlong down the steeps.|| tall,
This range of heights is cut off, towards| therir the sea, by a line of high perpendicular avery cliff; at whose feet lies an extraordinary gS, passage of country: a narrow slip, it is dit
true; but of sufficient extent, to have en-;
ies the Which 5 from remi- tes in fort, ading., NS, to untry, he face nt, to her a lence ie epa- mbs; n eX nes’; Of ably, \eavy ps. warts oulat ary t 1s ell=
ISLE OF WIGHT. 253
gaged ecclesiastic attention; the church of St. Laurence standing on. this peculiar site.
Judging from the ruggedness of the sur- face, arfd the want of soil, or sediment of superincumbent foul waters, on some of its protuberating rocky parts; as well as the height, which it-rises above the tide, and which varies from ten to thirty or forty feet; seeing, likewise, the height of the cliffs, above it; perhaps two hundred feet';* and the materials of which they are formed; namely rock; and apparently of a similar nature with the large fragments which lie at their feet;—there can be little doubt of its having been formed, by the fracture and fall of the face of the cliff;—the sea having, in all human probability, first un-
* This estimate may be too high. The eye is liable to be deceived, by an ASSOCIATION OF OBJECTS, and to be led astray, as well as to be set right, by com- PARISON. This Islet being small, its hills and its vallies are comparatively large. The hill of St. Ca- therine seen from the environs of Newport, appears a very mountain rising to the clouds; yet the ascent to it is easy, and it is surmounted without difficulty; and
is, in truth, a mere hillock, compared with the interior hills of England.
,
254 DISTRICT. 4 dermined it; by washing out an earthy a stratum, at the base.:| Tea This being as it may, I have no where a observed, so great a variety of fossil, and Th vegetable productions, within so‘small a ms compass. The rock is’of varied quality, geil and seamed with earths of different appear- ant ances. Ina dry wall, which had recently sant been built, with the fragments of the dis-| ate persed rock, scarcely two stones appeared ner to possess the same component parts; the of variety seemed endless. Out of the face of the the cliff, shrubs and herbaceous plants are in g seen, in great abundance; and, to the eye{t glancing over them, the species appear nu- Yer merous. In the cryptogamia tribes, this de passage seems equally prolific.‘The rup- the ture would, of course, disclose many seeds, of that had been locked up from the atmo- Me, sphere, from the day the present surface of sk the earth was formed, to the time: of the it i fracture; and, add to this, not only the ae: marine plants, natural to the shore, but un other plants, partially irrigated with the OF F spray of salt water, may increase the va- T} riety. So that the passage of surface, under eh break
4
eye ‘nue , this rup- eeds, mo- ce of f the y the lt the yas \der
ISLE OF WIGHT. 255
view, is not only interesting to the GEoLo- GisT, but is worthy of the more minute researches of the NATURALIST._ '«The’CLIMATURE, from what infor- mation I gathered, is forward; and appears genial to vegetation; except to that of trees, on the more exposed heights, and on the south side ofthe Island; where the few that are seen, are shorn, in a remarkable man- ner, by the southwest winds. On the Back of the Island(which lies fully exposed to these winds) even the hedges are cut, and in great part perished.
It is nevertheless observable, that a shrub- bery, containing exotic plants, on the bor- der of Sandown flat, and fully exposed to the sea, appeared to be in a luxuriant state of growth. But Sandown Cottage(the late Mr. Wilkes’s) like Mount Edgecumbe, has a skreen of high land, on the southwest; and it is not, I apprehend, sea air, so much as an unbroken, unabating current, which js unfriendly to vegetation. See the West OF ENGLAND, Vol. II. page 35.
The surface WATERS are collected, chiefly, by two small rivers, or well sized brooks; both of them rising out of the
256 DISTRICT.
rocky heights of St. Catherine. One of them passes down the sandy valley, to Brad- ing, at the eastern extremity of the Island; the other, down the. valley which bisects it, by Newport, to Cowes; between which, it takes the form of a winding, riverlike estuary.‘
SOILS and SUBSTRATA. A general idea, of the soils of this Island, has been conveyed, in speaking of its SURFACE. The particulars will best appear, in the following extracts from my Journal.
Ryde Ferry to Newport.* On the coast; and in the vallies about Wotton Bridge,&c. the sor is apparently strong: good wheat land. But, towards Newport, it is a thin- ner, leaner, woodland soil. The sussoit, in some parts, gravel: in others, a light- colored stone rises to near the surface;
large quarries being now worked; appa-
rently, for building materials.
Newport to St. Catherine's, under Cliff, EF eo.
The soils, in this ride, are as various, as the casts of surface. On the brink of the cliff, near Nighton, half the cultivated stratum is stones; a sort of impure flints; and the
~ is® * See the different routes, In page 246.
ee
Ai
ISLE OF WIGHT. 264
One of“higher swells, in general, seem to be of a Brad. calcareous nature; though little chalk ap- sland: pears, ip this quarter of the Island. Black Cts it, Down, on the contrary, is a direct heath: vhich, black vegetable mold, on sand or gravel: erlike a plot ef the morelands of Yorkshire, or of the heaths of Surrey, thrown in, here, as it eneral were to show from whence the Isle was 8 been taken: this being, I believe, the only plot E, The of heath land it contains. lowing Newport to Brading(along Ashey Down.) The sort and supsoir, the very same, as coast, those of every other light, thin-soiled, chalky 8, bc, down, in the kingdom. wheat Sandown to Newport. The whole way, a thin- eight or ten miles(and perhaps three or UBSOIL, four miles in width) exhibits a light-sandy light- soil. To the eastward, very barren, but irface; not.heathy. Towards Newport, it is more appie fertile: tolerably good turnep and barley land. The sussoit, to the east, a thirsty, pee hungry sand: to the west, a flinty gra- g, as tl vel.%s teclif, Newport to Freshwater. An uninter- Hat rupted covering of calcareous loam: mostly nd the of-a pale chalky quality; excepting a few plots, of a stronger texture, and darker
VOL. 11. S
258 DISTRICT.
color; as is seen on the uppermost swells of most, or all, chalk hills! Freshwater, by Newtown, to Newport. The so1u, almost. everywhere throughout the flat, is cold and ungenial. Immediately at the feet of the hills, towards Yarmouth, it is singularly so.. The ley grounds are overgrown with coltsfoot, horsetail; and other cold-soil weeds; with scarcely a blade or leaf of profitable herbage. Neverthe- less, the soil itself has a fertile appearance: to the eye, the very coomb of the District ‘of Maidstone! And though analysis might detect differential qualities, its extreme in- fertility is doubtless occasioned, by the sus- so1L, on which it rests;—a bed of clay. Newport to the Back of the Island. The finest township of land I have passed through is that of Gatcomb(in the valley above New- port): much powerful generous land, pro- ductive of corn or grass.‘The sea-coast flat, is uniformly sand; except a plot, be- low Brixton; a strong retentive soil: the sand, too, varies in fertility. Some of the rising grounds appear to be light, and unproductive; while other parts, about Athersfield and Brixton, if one may judge.
-
t swells
‘wpori, ighout liately nouth, \s are il, and rablade everthe- aranice: District
ymight
me in-
he sub-
lay.
1, The through e New- 1d, pro ea-coast lot, be:
oil: the
o of the it, and about
judge,
ISLE OF WIGHT. 25g
from the wheat stubbles, now upon them, are of a desireable quality;—charming arable land. The susstrata of this flat, as seen
from the sea shore, are various. The im-
mediate subsoil is uniformly sand, or light sandy loam;—in most places, reaching three or four feet deep. Below this, in one place, that-I more particularly examined, are Strata of stones, and colored earths; in another, a deep bed of blue clay. The whole liable to be torn away by the waves; the several strata now appearing fresh and distinct, in the face of a perpendicular cliff; ten to thirty or more feet high.
Eastward of Newport. How various the soil. The hang of the swell, towards the
town, is a rich unctuous clay; the top of.
the hill, cold, pale, gluey, and unproduc- tive. The slope, to the eastward, especially towards the bottom, a light, sandy, gra- velly soil; but with a cold retentive base; the last a characteristic, which seems pretty common, to the northeast quarter of the Island.
Newport to Cowes and its environs. Mostly a gravelly loam; the lower lands, appa- rently, of a stout productive nature: but
52
1bs DISTRICT.
the rising grounds, above Cowes, are weaker; partaking more of the cold Weald lands, of the northwestern quarter. The substra- tum mostly gravel; in some places, eight or ten feet deep of clean road gravel.
In this detail, we see the diversity of lands, which occupy the surface of this Isle, and are enabled to form some judgment of their separate and average values. In the neigh- bourhood of Newport, in the valley above it, and in the flat of the southern coast; also on some of the hills or uplands, parti- cularly those of Nighton, and in different parts of the northeast quarter, we find lands of the first quality. But these make only a small portion of the lands of the Island; and are far exceeded, in quantity, by those which are weak, and under-productive. The quantity of barren land, however, is inconsiderable. On the whole, it may be said, that there are few cultivated districts, in England, of equal extent, whose lands, collectively, are not of equal, or superior fertility, to those of the Isle of Wight.
INHABITANTS. Those who may have attended to the exports of corn, from the
Isle of Wight, may doubt the accuracy of
alia ISLE OF WIGHT. 261
ds, of the above statement, respecting the produc- stra- tiveness of its soils. But its surplus produce ight is to be accounted for, in the fewness of its inhabitants, proportionably to the quantity nds, of its arable lands. There is no manufac- and tory, of any extent, in the Isle: nor any their place of commerce; except Cowes; which, eigh- as such, is inconsiderable. The town of above Newport may be considered, merely, as the ast: residence of tradespeople, to supply the darti- country with extraneous products: and, in orent traversing the country itself, it everywhere ands appears to be thinly inhabited; the villages aly a small, and widely scattered: except at the and Back of the Island, which has been, and in- éhoe deed still is, fully inhabited; though its ht inhabitants may, lately, have considerably ar is decreased.* Bc:; ay be Seeing this, it naturally occurs to an agri- es cultural mind, to inquire, how its harvests lands, are got in? the answer is, by the assistance sei of“ miners,” from the West of England. |* BACK OF THE ISLAND. Thenotice on my Jour- have nal, respecting the population of this passage, stands as the follows.‘* Inhabitants:—seemingly few: large farms, y of and small villages: Kingston is a mere hamlet. Town-
ships:—yet, if one may judge from the number of town-
\
262 DISTRICT.
The PRESENT INHABITANTS, Of this de lightful little morsel of earth, are most re- spectable. There are several residences of gentlemen; and some very old families, that have long been rooted, here. The yeomanry, the larger farmers, and the middle class, throughout, are superior to those of most parts of England, in their appearance, and manners. I had a good opportunity of seeing a large proportion of them collected, at Newport, on one of these occasions, which must, in the nature of curiosity and fashion, bring the whole Island together,—a play. The lower or- ders, too, are well personed, intelligent, and decent in their manners. Those of the Back of the Island, perhaps, are least so. Indeed, they are spoken of, by their more refined neighbours, as a. distinct race; as the simple inhabitants of the back settlements; who
ships, this plot of country has once been populous: there being, still, six churches in it: and it has, probably, had several more; as Walham, Athersfield, Sutton, Barnes, Yexford,&c. This recluse and easily culturable spot, was probably cultivated, early; and heretofore, perhaps, supported many times the number of its present inha- bitants.”’
<<<= P
ISLE OF WIGHT. 262
~
| des live chiefly among themselves; seldom mak- Ure. ing their appearance, even at the capital; Sof and rarely setting a foot off the Island._ lies, The TOWNSHIPS are unequal, in size; Phe or the churches are unequally distributed: he.{,_ the Back of the Island, and the western flat to towards Yarmouth, containing not more their than twenty square miles of surface, com- good prize near half the parishes of the Island, rtion which contains near ten times that extent. 1e of‘The Downs, however, which separate them, ture are probably laid to these lowland town- hole ships.
or-_ The towns of Newport and Cowes have vatid been noticed. The former is a respectable Back market town, and happily situated: on good deed Jand, in the center of the Island, yet within Fad the reach of the tide: the latter a mean sea al port. The town of Yarmouth, which I ap- an proached, but did not enter, appears to be
little more than a village, or fishing town; and that of Newtown(another borough!) isa ey mere hamlet; the ruins of the church lying
ly, had
ie on a narrow headland, between two creeks, Lie ne. e.;...
sot in a low, damp, dirty situation; which was haps, probably chosen, while the flat in which it inha- lies, was in a wild woody state, by pirates,
Sa en lg
264 DISTRICT.
or freebooters; and which is of course de+ serted, in a state of civilized society. ROADS. In 1791, they lay in their na- tural, flat state: there was not a turnpike, or a raised road, in the Island; unless be-
tween Newport and Cowes. Nevertheless,
the cross-country roads were travelable, with carriages: though it has been but of late years, they have been made so. A middle- aged man remembered there being only one chaise, and that for a single horse, in the Island! Now, even quartering carriages are common.
The wayreeves of the Isle of Wight have hit upon a simple, and cheap method, of FORMING QUARTERINGS, in hollow ways, and difficult places, where there was only one narrow waggon track. In these cases, they: have merely pared away the bank, on one side, about twa feet wide; so as to forma horse track, for one of the quartering horses to tread; the other taking the beaten middle path of the waggon track. By this ready alteration; by filling in the ruts, and horse tracks, with hard materials; and paying: some attention to the offlets of water; the roads, in general, are kept in a state, fit to
ae
eS nr
ISLE OF WIGHT. 2.65
be travelled, by carriages of every kind; without toll; and without excessive cost to the country.:|
STATE OF INCLOSURE. Thecuatx HILLs are, here, as they are almost every- where, open. I observed only one break, or large inclosure, upon the West Downs. But the lower margins, or skirts, towards Caersbrook, are inclosed.
The sTONEY HEIGHTS appear to be mostly divided, into large inclosures; except the rich uplands of Nighton, which lie ina state of open field.
The rest of the Island is inclosed; and mostly in well sized fields; except“THE
FOREST, an extensive tract of wild lands,
in the northwest quarter; and except a suite of comMowns, in the northeast division, between Newport and Wotton Bridge; and these were, in 1791, progressively under- going the profitable change, from a state of rough, unproductive, wet, unhealthy com- mons, to that of drained and cultivated ip-’ closures: not, however, by calling in the costly aid of Parliament; but by general con- sent: a strong evidence of the happy state of society, which this little Island enjoys.
eee
i
Soe A st ee ee
Soo aa cal eee eer Car oa eee ser as Seo a
cece eo 7g a Se
266 DISTRICT.
The FEncEs of these inclosures are mostly, or have been, of live shrubs. Many of them are old, as if they had originated in the na~ tural brushwood of the wild lands, and are now wearing out; requiring to be plashed and pruned, to prolong their duration. At the Back of the Island, most of the fences are mere earth walls, or narrow mounds, co- vered with brambles; the perennial shrubs, if ever present, having been cut off, entirely, by the southwest winds(to which they are ‘fully exposed); probably for want of being kept down, in a low, thick, bushy state.
In the eastern division of the Island, there are many young hedges; some of recent inclosures; the woods mostly hawthorn; but, in a few instances, privet(ligustrum vulgare,—the North-American hedgewood) which, if kept pruned down, low, and dwarfish, makes a close, tolerably secure, and sightly fence.
In one or more instances, I observed, on the most barren sandy lands, the furze, kept down, in a low brushy form, with good effect.
On the more bleakly exposed sites, I saw the elder flourishing in the character of a
nostly, then € na~ 1 are shed At Nees 35 00- rubs, rely, Y are eng here cent lor: strlm ood} and cure,
d, on kept e00d
saW of a
ISLE OF WIGHT. 267
hedge wood: as I have heretofore seen it, on the high wollls of YORKSHIRE.
In most parts of the Island, the hedges of lanes are kept down, to the proper fence height, and, in many places, the hedges, between farm inclosures, are treated in a similar manner.
At the Back of the Island, where this precaution is most wanted, it seems to be the most neglected. Prruaps, sloes, dib- bled on the tops, and sides, of the naked moundlets, of that District, would grow, bind the banks together, and give a perpe- tual fence at a small cost.
The ordinary FIELD GaTE, of the Island, is merely a strong bar hurdle; with a stout stake at either end, by way of posts. This is a cheap means of communication. But it is not sightly, nor can it be secure, against resolute stock.,
The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS are, chiefly, cuLTIVATED CROPS, and SHEEP PAS- TURE; with a portion of WooDLANDs;
some FURZE GROUNDS; and an extent of
ROUGH COMMONABLE LANDS; but with very little lowland pasture, or meadow land; except in the environs of Cowes and Mews
268. DISTRICT.
port._And the marsh and fen lands, at the east end of the Island, are 6f small extent.
The woop.anps are chiefly confined, to the northeast quarter of the Island: of which near one third, I apprehend, is in.a state of wood: the vallies are mostly filled with timber oaks; but, in general, they are mossy and of a stinted growth. In the northwest quarter, which is equally, or bet~ ter adapted, to the growth of oak timber, trees are still more affected, by the cold un- broken blasts from the sea; and this may account for the comparative smallness of quantity, in this oakland part. Over the rest of the Island, there are few, if any woodlands, unless about the larger resi- dences, and very little hedgerow timber. On the upper grounds, or even onthe flat at the Back of the Island, there is scarcely a tree; except a few decrepit, half-perished elms, about villages, or the larger farm- steads.
VIEWS. From the latter part of this description, it may be conceived, that the Isle of Wight is destitute of picturable ef- fect; and, in some parts, it certainly is so: no extent of country is uniformly beautiful.
ISLE OF WIGHT. 269
But, whether the Isle of Wight be consi- dered, as a passage, interesting in itself, or as a place of view, commanding distant _scenery; it is capable of conveying ,—to the mind of an Englishman, whose taste is not sé far vitiated, as to render him incapable of being gratified, by the beautiful assem- blage of features which may frequently be caught in the face of his own country,—a high degree of gratification.
The internal beauties of the Isle are chiefly commanded(or might be) from a single point of view: the summit of the knoll, which rises to the east of Newport. The entire circle is highly interesting. The finely surfaced and wooded quarter, to the northeast, with Spithead in the first dis- tance, and the hills of Hampshire and Sus- sex, in the offscape, form a broad, but ne- vertheless, a rich and beautiful view. More to the right, the valley of Brading, with its rugged hillocks, skreened, on the right, by the heights of St. Catherine, with the grounds of Appuldurcomb, hanging on their steep and strongly featured surface, and dis- tanced by the sea, compose a charming pic- ture. Further to the right, the valley of
*
270 DISTRICT.| Gatcomb affords a sweet home view; and de still further, the well featured rising grounds,| of the environs of Caersbrook, with the remains| m of its castle, are finely picturable.| i The remaining compartment of the circle( is filled with a broader view; less adapted, abl perhaps, to the pencil; but.more capable of) the expanding, and filling with grateful and li- fy beral sentiments, the mind of him who con= a templates it. The near ground, of this view,| ¢ is the steep-sided valley, below Newport;] with its river-form estuary, serpentining, in in a happy manner, to its conflux with the| ed narrow sea, that separates it from the New Fe Forest: which, with the estuary of South- ampton, fill the center of the view; the| 5 hills of Winchester rising in the distance.; The rich and varied country, on either‘ hand, spread their fair and ample surfaces; without intruding side skreens, to abridge d the view; and rob the eye of its enjoy- j ments.|‘i In the deep narrow dells, and folding ae ridges, of the southern heights, much inte+ e resting scenery may be eaught, and more the might: be induced. And, in the chinesand_ Do rocky clifts, of these heights, those. who i
ISLE OF WIGHT. 27% i delight in the deformities and mutilations nie of nature(for they can scarcely be called nature’s own productions) may gratify the file: eye, and find employ ment for the pencil. ed, Of wider views, there are two remark- sag able points; one in the east, the other in Mie the western division of the Island. The sis foot of the land mark, on Ashey Down, vi affords the first. From this point, the an- : chorings of St. Helen’s and Spithead, with Ort;.:: the singular intermixture of land and water, I in the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, back- the ed by the Hampshire and Sussex Downs, a are well commanded. the The other point is on Brixton Down;— the a little above the barrow, in whose bowels Be an ingenious shepherd has found a snug ther retreat. From this point the entire Island €s 5_ 1s overlooked: the eye ranging with free- dge dom, over almost every part of its surface: oy- while, on one hand, a boundless sea view, or bounded only by its own convexity, pre- ling sents itself; and, on the other hand, land- fe scapes, whose boundaries also are left, for re the imagination to fix. The principal part of id Dorsetshire, part of Wiltshire, and the en- ho tire southern declivities of Hampshire and
Hie 472 DIRFRICTN*: i Sussex, with the distant Isles of Selsey and i
|{ q Portland, are delineated, in a vast map; i i drawn by Nature’s unerring pencil; and I a communicating to the mind sensations, and i
impressions, which all the maps and land-, te scapes, of men’s making, are unable to pro- i duce. al Remarks. I have here detailed the more striking views of the Isle of Wight: not| merely on account of their beauty or su-! blimity, abstractedly considered; but also I because they are capable of being rendered b useful, to the great end, for which I have C4 long been laboring.—The permanent im-| fi provement, and lasting pee ey of the 1 country.|( The occupiers of lands, as men of every other profession and rank in life, require re~ 5 laxation. And although the needy husband- 1 man, borne down, perhaps, by an excessive y rent, exorbitant tithe and taxes, and a nume~|, Bt rous family, may be doomed to constant, f i} labor, and unremitted attention, there is a p
i i class of men,—by whom the major part of| gi
ie the lands of this kingdom are, at present,,oc~ m0
Pht- cupied,—to whom its improved state of agri- Sob
culture is owing,—and in whose exertions, a
ey ant map; and , and land- ) pro-
more : Not Mr su- t also Jered have Im- the
every rere~ and= sSslve umes istant 2 18.8 art of t OC gti
ONS;
ISLE OF WIGHT. 273
properly directed, the country has to look for farther melioration,x—who are entitled to recreation,—who do, and will; partake of amusements; and it becoines those who are desirous to promote the public welfare, to direct them to such objects, as will at once amuse and instruct.
~ A man who has never crossed the bounds of his native parish, unless in his way to market, may manage well enough, accord- ing to the established practice of his neigh- bourhced. But little hope of improvement can be placed in him. His mind requires first to be improved. And this cannot be more readily, and effectually done, than by conducting him beyond the sphere of his education; and there showing him that the same end. is obtainable by ditferent means: thus leading him insensibly to consider, whether his own means are the best; or whether those which he has seen, are pre- ferable: and out of the comparison may possibly arise those which are more eli- gible than either. Indeed, it is scarcely possible, that a professional man, who has been early initiated in the habits of‘culti- vation, should view an extent of cultivated
VOL. II. Soke iii
2.74 DISTRICT.
country, without receiving some profitable impression,—without having his conception enlarged, his judgment strenethened, his emulation roused, and his mind bent towards the improvement of his native practice.
AGG LGU i
FARMS. The cHARACTERISTIC of farms, here, is arable; with sheep down, to those which lie contiguous to the Chalk Hills.
The size is large. Many capital farms are seen, in different parts of the Island. And, in no part, except perhaps in the Yar- mouth quarter, are small ones observable: even the Back of the Island, which, within memory, had numerous small holdings, is now laid into those of a large size: many a poor man having only the title of farmer left.; 7
This, however, ina public light, might be right, were not the principle over-stretch- ed: farms of a moderate size, doubtless, send more produce to market, than the
sal hai
Ofttabe \Ception ned, his towards
Ice,
farms, those lls. arms Island, e Yar vable: within ngs, 1 many
v
farmer
ioht be te)
retch- btless, n the
ISLE OF WIGHT. 255
same land could, in small holdings, in the hands of the indigent. Principles, in ge-= neral, are good or bad, as they are properly, or improperly applied. In this, and other parts of the Island, farms have not only been enlarged, by an aggregation of small ones; but such as were already of sufficient size, and which had suitable buildings, and
arrangements, for men of capital and spirit,|
to exert them, are no longer the respect- able residences of such men; but are either wholly deserted, or some corner of the buildings is fitted up, fora bailiff, or upper servant.
Remarks. A plurality of farms, as of livings, is bad. One man, holding three or four well sized farms, as some men in this Island, I understand, do, and as many men, in different parts of the kingdom, certainly do, and these, perhaps, lying at a distance from each other, cannot pay due attention to the whole. It may answer the purpose of an individual, as there is only one, in- stead of three or four families, to be sup- ported, by the same extent of land; but, in the deficiency and waste of produce, which, in the nature of the rural profession, will
6 ae
276 AGRICULTURE.
unavoidably take place, the community be- come losers.
SERVANTS. The same inconveniency, and the serious evil to the communitys;which may sometimes result from it, is observable, here, a8 in Sussex. When I went over the Island, the wheat sowing was nearly at a stand; though the season was unusually fa-
-vorable, for this important operation; with which the price of bread is nearly con- nected. Surely, the custom of CHANGING FARM SERVANTS, at MICHAELMAS, might be broken through; especially in the Isle of Wight, where a principal part of them are employed, by so few individuals.
BEASTS OF DRAFT. Mostly Horses. A few oxen are worked; but chiefly, I be- lieve, by gentlemen, or improving farmers; and not in the ordinary practice of the Isle. The plea, for not using them, is a want of grass: not being aware, that working oxen, at least, should be fed in their stalls, with cultivated herbage, green or dry, the.year round; or whenever they are in full work.*
The pLow TEAM is four heavy horses:— even on the lighter lands! in a state of fal-
* See MinuTEs of AGRICULTURE, in SURREY:
nity by
enienoy, iW hic Iable, ver the lyat a ally fa- ny With ly cone ANGING ight by Isle of
‘Mm are
1ORSES, ),| bes rmers; e Isle, vant of r OX, s, with 1¢ year work* s¢3:—
of fal-
REY:
ISLE OF WIGHT. 277
fow!! An unsufferable practice, which may be said to be common to the SournERN CounrTIES,
The Roap TEAM is of five horses. I saw near twenty teams of this length, collected together, at Newport market. Mostly thick, good horses, in high condition.
IMPLEMENTS. The piow of the Isle of Wight appears to be uniform, through- out the Island; and corresponds, nearly, or exactly, with that of the Hampshire and Wiltshire hills, which will be noticed, in the next district. It has two wheels of dif- ferent sizes; that which runs in the furrow being the highest. Its coulter is crooked; has a bend, below the beam; that its blade may range(as it ought) with the. sheath, breast, or stem of the plow; and its plate, or moldboard, instead of being convex, or bulging forward, like that'of the Yorkshire,. or modern plow, is every way hollow! How infinitely various, at present, is the construc- tion of this most valuable of human inven- tions!
Its waGGONn, too, is that of the wEsTERN Division of the CuaLk Hixts. It is large, and runs wide; five feet nine inches being
238 AGRICULTURE.
the common distance, I believe, between the middles of the ruts.
OBJECTS OF HUSBANDRY. The two principal articles of marketable pro- duce are coRN and sHEEP. CATTLE and DAIRY PRODUCE are subordinate objects. Swine, however, appear to be in great number. And, on the stoney heights, some RABBITS are seen. Also a few breeding HORSES, on the appropriated lands; with wild ponies, in the forest.
CROPS in CULTIVATION. The chief MARKETABLE CROP is wheat. Inthe middle of October, an extraordinary proportion was sown; or the ground was, then, pre- pared for the operation; and, chiefly, by fallowing. Barley, also, judging from the quantity in rick, and the reports of infor~ mants, is a prevailing crop; except on the cold Jands, on the north side of the Island. Of oats I saw less appearance; of peas only one small rick; and of beans, only one stubble. But others might have been then broken up, and in fallow, or escaped notice.
Of EXPENDING crops, for the support of farm stock, the herbage of sheep downs is not the least considerable. These are mostly
Veen thy
The le pro- LE and biects, great 8, some reeding 3+ with
e chief
infor
yn the
Island, as only ly. one on then
notice.
ort of
wns 1S nostly
ISLE OF.WIGHT: 279
in clean fine turf; except on the summits of some of the higher swells; which are fouled with furze, and a little heath; in the same manner, as those of Wiltshire and Yorkshire! Owing, perhaps, to their being capped with the same cold weak soil, as the tops of other chalk hills.
Turneps may be considered, as the next object of farm expenditure. In 1791, there appeared a large proportion of this crop; but, mostly, under vile management.
Of clover, also, some considerable pro- portion appeared; but of temporary ley grounds very few, indeed; and of lowland grass, either in a state of pasture, or of mowing ground, the proportion, as has been said, is very small.’
As a substitute for pasture lands, and especially as green stable food, for work- ing horses, ¢ares, I understand, are culti- vated in great quantity. Even in the middle of October, I observed(at a distance) some tall green herbage(apparently oats) cut- ting; and doubtless for this purpose. An instance of sowing winter tares, with black oats, as supporters, occurred. to me: and the reason given for sowing black, in pre-
‘i iH
i i
i,
2.80 A AGRICULTURE.
ference: to white, oats was, that they are less liable to be cut off, by frosts: and this may be a fact.
The most extraordinary circumstance, which arose, in examining the crops of the Isle of Wight, is that not an acre, nor even a plant, of saifoin met the eye! even on the whole extent of calcareous lands, that I traversed! Ido not mean to assert, that there is no one instance of sainfoin being grown, in the Island. But, from the in- quiries made, I learnt that there was, In 1791, very little, ¢f any, then growing!! and the reason given, for this neglect of it, was, that“it soon goes off”: an extraordi-~ nary circumstance,(seeing the nature of the soil) which is only to be explained, in the calcareous lands of this Island having been repeatedly cropped, with this valuable plant; or by some impropriety, in the manage~- ment of the growing crop. See GLOocEs- TERSHIRE,—DzIstTRicT OF MaipsToneE,&c.
With respect to PARTICULARS OF MANAGEMENT, though I find many on my Journal, Iam not prepared with a DE- TAIL: nor may the practice of the IsLE or WicuT require one. Its weald lands re-
y are d this
nce, the ven 1 0n Nat that being > Ns S, In ig}! f it, rdi~ f the 1 the been ant; aves CES , AC, OF yon DE OF re=
ISLE OF WIGHT. 281
semble, in soil and management, those of the Weatps of Kenr and Sussex; its sandy loams, and sheep economy, those of the Dis- STRICT OF PETWoRTH, and the Sea Coast OF SuSsEX; and its Chalk Hills; as well as the principal implements in use, throughout the Island, are the same as those of the HILLS of WILTSHIRE, and Hampsuire; and will be particularized, in the next part of this Volume;—the WesTERN Division ofthe CHALK Hits,
Therefore, all I shall offer further, in this part, will be a few notices, respecting CATTLE, and sHEEP: with a general view of the PRESENT STATE OF HUSBANDRY; and such few suggestions of IMPROVEMENT, as aptly rise out of it.
CATTLE. The sreep of the Isle of Wight(if it can be said to have one) is a campleat medley. Its original stamina, or bases, are evidently the Alderney, Norman, or F’RENCH BREED, and the Devonshire, West Country, or ENGLISH BREED; anda few un- debased individuals, of each of these breeds, are seen; having doubtless been imported: for those which are bred in the Island are of the first description. I saw several small
Ea
P P= E f m—— seca i= i Ba
5 aa '
;
Cosas hi
282 AGRICULTURE.
parcels of young stock, in different parts of the vale districts, on the north side of the Isle; and all of them were of base blood; mongrels of low degeneracy. In one herd, the sire appeared, in all the deformity, which crossing, with distinct and widely estranged varieties, is capable of producing.
REMARKS ON BREEDING. The cattle of this Island strongly evince the impropriety of mixing alien varieties. The first pro- duce of distinct varieties, as of distinct spe- cies, is frequently a valuable MULE. But though the mules of varieties are permitted to propagate, and in this differ from the mules of distinct species; yet, judging from the observations which I have made, in dil- ferent parts of the kingdom, as well as from the meager, ill formed creatures, that are seen in the Island under view, they pro- pagate a degenerate race.
The pescripTIoNs of cattle, seen in the Isle of Wight, beside the few oxen that are worked, are dairy cows,—some rearing caitle (as has been mentioned) and, in the marshes, at the east end of the Island, I observed a few fatting cattle. But, on the whole, the
number is evidently small; and out of pro-
arts of of the lood; herd, vhich nged
tle of priety t pro- t spe- «But nitted n the from in dit- s from at are ' pro-
in the hat are 4 calle gsileS, ved a 2, the pro-
taal |
ISLE OF WIGHT. 283
portion, with the arable lands. The waste of straw must, in course, be great.
The paiRyY pPRopucE of the Island is butter; for Portsmouth, and its own mar- Kets; and skim cheese; for the laboring class.
This part of the Wightish practice has, evidently, grown out of the circumstance of locality, with respect to a market; and is of course proper. Yet, notwithstand- ing the market, for dairy produce, and the want of cattle to consume the straw of the Island, I was well assured, that the number of cows, on the south side or Back of the Island; have greatly decreased, with- in memory; I was told, as ten to one: but if; as three to one, the decrease, on ten
square miles of surface, must be ereat;-
owing to the recent aggregation of farms.
It is to be remarked, however, that the lands, as well as the situation, of that quar- ter of the Island, are better adapted to sheep, than to cattle; and, it is probable, that as the cows decreased, the number of sheep has been augmented.
But the vale lands, on the north side of the Island, are adapted to cows, rearing cattle, and dairy produce; yet, here, I observed at
284 AGRICULTURE.
least one large flock of sheep; with but few cattle, or grasslands to maintain them.
SHEEP. There are two BREEDS and DESCRIPTIONS of sheep, in this Isle: one of them belonging to the Downs; the other to the lower lands.
The first are BREEDING FLOocKsS, of the Hampshire variety: but, from what I saw of them, they are a degenerate kind; small- er, and worse formed, than the true Hamp- shire breed: owing, no doubt, to the prin- ciples of breeding being less understood, or less attended to: as well, perhaps, as to a want of meadows, to force them in the spring.|
In 1791, the South Down breed had made its entry, into the Isle of Wight. I ob- served one large flock, on the Western Downs, which was a motley mixture of the
two breeds; and a good South Down ram,»
among a flock of Hampshire ewes: animals as little alike, in their present states, as the horse and the ass: nevertheless, being, in all human probability, offsprings from the same root, their blood may the sooner, and better assimilate.*
* See West OF ENGLAND, Section SHEEP. Also
eae
ISLE OF WIGHT. 285
The other description of sheep are Dor- SETSHIRE EWES, bought in, for the purpose of providing EARLY, FAT Lamps, for the London market; agreeably to the practice of the District or Petwortu, described aforegoing. These are common to the Island; appearing in numbers, everywhere; except on the higher Downs; and consti- tute the principal part of its livestock.
The time of lambing, here, as in West Sussex, 1s Christmas, or a little after. In the middle of October, I saw a large flock, then full of lamb; folding off turneps, for wheat, on the vale lands, east’ of Newport.
In the management of these flocks, I met with nothing, either from observation or inquiry, which differs, materially, from the practice above referred to.
Of Fo.Lp1NG I observed several instances; afew of them being on fallow, or broken ground; but more on turnep ground; both of them, doubtless, intended for wheat.
STATE OF HUSBANDRY.| Under this general head, I will draw together such
the SouTHERN Drviston of the CHaxx HI ts, in this Volume:
> ae ee re
| > _| ee
“a if f i
286 AGRICULTURE.
notices, relating to this subject, as occurred, in each day’s excursion; and which have not already found a place, in the foregoing particulars.
Southeast quarter of the Island.* Much foul bad farming, in this ride; and several of the bottoms, and lower hangs of the hills, are cold, and rough skinned, for. want of underdraining. The higher slopes are many of them formed into flat stages, with steeps between them, of perhaps eight, ten, or more feet in height. How has the sur- face been moulded into this form?t Ob- served several instances of raftering, or rib- bing, fallowed or broken grounds. The manure, now setting on for wheat, is dung. Saw no appearance of lime being used, in this intention.
Newport to Brading, along Ashey Down. The state of husbandry is similar to that of other chalky districts!
Brading to Newport, up the sandy valley. The turnep crop is shamefully managed, in this Island: not one acre, of ten, appears
* For the different routes, see page 248. + For remarks on thesé extraordinary works of for- mer times, see the next division of this Volume.
— ee
I
ISLE OF WIGHT. 28, q tre J hie to have been hoed. Today, I saw a wag~ t oing gon load of charlock, an acre, where tur-;
neps, doubtless, were intended: and, yester- ich day, not a less burden of the corn bugloss! —(lycopsis arvensis). The extraneous ma-
esc pet 5 NONE
i it :| i | q i, i:
nure is chalk: large excavations appear on q an the sides of the Chalk Hills; and the sandy i ce soils of the valley appear full of knobs, or ta with checkers of chalk. Formerly, much chalk, can(I was told| by a professional man) was burnt into lime; but, now, it is mostly or wholly set on, raw. Surely, a chalk mill Ob- might be invented.* Four heavy horses are bs the ordinary plow team, on this light land The passage! What a crime! The ricks, every- or where, as round as footballs: very globes: i, in turned with great accuracy, and neatness. Through this ride, too, much foul land is wn. seen: the turnep culture is unpardonable; at of and the breed of cattle wretched.+ ley.* See District or Perworth, page 176. a, In t The judgment, it has already been said, is liable reat to be misled, through an association of objects; as well as by unobliterated impressions. The temperament of the mind itself, too, may bias the judgment. I passed fore to the Isle of Wight, immediately from the Sea Coast
of Sussex, whose management is above par; and this
288 AGRICULTURE.
- Newport, to the west end of the Island, along the northern bang of the Chalk Downs. Nothing, in the general management of these hills, struck me, either to commend, or condemn; it being similar to that of other chalk hills!
From near Yarmouth, to Newport, over the vale lands, of the northwest quarter... Much. dung setting on fallows, for wheat; and mostly in a middle state as to ripeness: but some of it fresh from the stable: in a long strawy state! One field thickly chalked. Many of the wheat fallows are clean, and in fine tilth: indeed, the season has been singularly favorable to fallows. But the oat stubbles, and ley grounds,—if such they may be called,—appear foul and weak. This, it is true, is a difficult and dishearten-
might lower the estimation of that of the Island. But my passage, from Portsmouth to Ryde, was pleasant, I had a commodious chaise, from thence to Newport, and 2 comfortable bed, at the Bugle: so that spleen of dis- appointment conld have no share, in the above remarks.
I do not mention these circumstances, lightly, or with the vain thought of entertaining my readers; but to deal candidly with them;, and to awaken the attention of those who may hereafter have occasion, to pass sen- tence on the rural management of a country.
an, and s bein Sut the ich they 1 weak,
learten-
nd. But leasant,| port, ad sen of dise e remarks, ly, or with | but to attention pass sei
ISLE OF WIGHT. 289
ing soil, to farm on. Fallowing for wheat, 'nstead of spring corn and ley herbage, ap- pears to be the great error, in its manage- ment.
Back of the Island. Here, the extraneous manure is“ marl,”—an impure chalk,— which js dug out of the sides of the hills; where extraordinary excavations appear; as if it had been in use, for centuries past. The state of the soil, as to cleanness and tilth, is above par. Observed, on two or three different farms, clean ley grounds. For wheat, the soil is laid up, in narrow ridges; even on the light lands of this flat. But it appears to be the common practice of the Isle, without regard to soil; as it is throughout the West or EncLanp. On the Whole, this part of the Island is in a to- lerably good state of cultivation: owing, perhaps, to its being chiefly in the hands of large farmers; of men who have capital, and judgment, to manage it.
The vale lands, to the northeast of New- port... The arable lands, in general, are un- pardonably foul. Very few good farmers.
Beside the particulars, here adduced, a
deficiency, or total want, of sainfoin, and VOL,{T° U
AGRICULTURE:
2go
water meadows,(no instance of which oc- curred to me) ina-chalk hill country, re- quires especial mention.
The IMPROVEMENTS, whichrise more prominently, out of the foregoing state- ments, are some alterations in the GENERAL ECONOMY, OF preselit PLAN OF MANAGEMENT, of the Island at large, by reducing the quan- tity of arable lands, and increasing the num- ber of livestock. Thus, on the cold vale lands, increase the quantity of permanent grassland,* and the number of cows and rearing cattle: on the sandy loams, increase the proportion of ley herbage; on the cal- careous soils try, at least, to grow sainfoin™; and on the sides of the calcareous rivulets, form water meadows: by these means, en-
* For remarks on this process, see WEALD OF SUS- SEX, page 158. In the Isle of Wight, Isaw. an in- stance, on a large scale, in the Valley of Gatcomb, of
arable lands being converted into perennial herbage, with success; being used as grazing ground: of which there
is little, in the Isle. And the vale lands, which are’
worked at a great expence, and with much uncertainty, compared with the lands of Gatcomb, would doubtless pay better for the change.
+ For the Cotswold practice, see GLOCESTERSHIRE. For that of Kent, see District OF MalDSTONE
in Vol. I. page 155.
ISLE OF WIGHT. 291
: a abling the uplands to carry more stock; and this, perhaps, without any reduction in ; the present quantity of corn. For, though a the number of acres might be less, the in~ Bees crease of manure, and the comparative fresb- a ness of the lands, with respect to corn crops, re might make up, for the deficiency; andthe al advantages, arising from the livestock, be ea so much clear gain. Id val The present Joss of produce, to the com~ nanent munity, and of profit; to the occupiers, or 'S and the proprietors of the lands of this Isle, aay by the unsufferable practice of puowine the e cal- light loamy soils, wirn Four costly, high- fon" fed HoRsEs, call loudly for improvement.‘If vulets the superior practice of cultivating such NS, elle lands, with Two oxen, cannot readily be A Ge:_ established, that of plowing them with an ine TWO HORSES, agreeably to the practice of omb,f half the main land, should forthwith be ey wi adopted. he In its coURSE OF HUSBANDRY, an obvious erty improvement is to’ be made. Instead of Jouhtless fallowing the vale. lands, and growing foul turneps, on the uplands, for wheat, let the aa ground, in every situation, be thoroughly TO)
cleaned, for spring corn and ley herbage;
ryy
J 2
a
2.92 AGRICULTURE.
and sow wheat, after clover; or after pulse, cultivated in rows, with wide intervals, in the Kentish manner.’
And in BREEDING, too, much improve- ment is to be effected; both in cattle and sheep.
Why not propagate the ENGLISH BREED OF CATTLE, pure, and unmixed with foreign blood? The French cow may produce an agreeable variety in park scenery, and fur- nish rich viands for a fashionable table; but from my own experience of this breed, in Surrey, they are of a tender nature; re- quiring indulgent treatment, to keep them in condition: and they appear to be alto- gether unfit, for the cold, weak, vale lands of the Isle of Wight; whatever they may be, for its richer, warmer grounds.
The proper breed of sueep, for the heights of the Island, is evidently the South- Down: not mixed, however, with the dege- nerate breed in possession;—provided ewe lambs, or aged offcast ewes, of the true breed, can be procured, fast enough, from Sussex.
er pulse
rvals, ip nprove- Tae ttle and s CHALK HILLS H BREED/ h foreign oduce an OF THE MORE and fur- able; but sy ae: ae in SOUTHERN COUNTIES. }
ure; re- ep them“ae
healte THESE HILLS stretch out, in different siete directions, and spread, with irregular out- |: lines, through that part of the Island, which they ma forms the subject of the present Volumes— | reaching, from east to west, near two hun- for the dred miles.
ne South: In so great an extent of country, varia- le Sout
hatte tions 1n practice are to be expected. These we b variations have arisen, not altogether out of vided en the circumstances that might attend their * the true first settlement, and the incidents of long ugh fom continued‘practice; but, in some measure,
from the varying nature of their soils. For although there is a striking similarity of soil, on every range of Chalk Hills, in the kingdom, where the Chalk rises nearly to
294 ANALYSIS OF THE SUBJECT.
the surface; yet, in several parts of the hills of Kent al Surrey, the Chalk, especially on the tops of the higher swells, is deeply covered with a strong tenacious soil;—in some places, three or four feet in c lepth.
This circumstance, which I have not ob- served, on any other part of the Hills under view(unle Ss partially, and in a slighter de- eree,.in: the. north’ of Hampshire, and the southwestern quarter of Ww iltshire), added to that of the Kentish and Surrey Downs, being entirely separated from the more southern and western hills, by the barren Heaths of Surrey and Hampshire, render them a distinct object of examination. And the Downs of Sussex, though they agree in soil, with the Hampshire and Wiltshire hills, and are contiguous to the for mer, ditter much with respect to management. The Dorsetshire Hills appear, from what I have seen of them, to be similar to those of Wilt- shire. A threefold division, therefore, is all that is requisite: namely,
The Western Division; comprizing the Downs of Wiltshire and Hampshire::
The Southern Division; containing the West and South Downs of Sussex: and
The Eastern Division; including those of Surrey and Kent.
“> oOo ss ae
wr,
ae*
aie
he hills ecially: leeply
IN
Ibs WESTERN DIVISION
under
THE
pees
ss 7. aia De lie Sheer = rat SE ee AL
| i) |
t de OF THE d the| ad+> CHALK“HILLS more een PREFATORY OBSERVATIONS. ender And ee In THIS BEING the largest Division, and hills, the one that I have examined with the most dite attention, I shall speak of it, in detail; and The confine myself, in mentioning the other Di- | have visions, to the few differential practices that Wilt. have struck me. is all It may be right to notice the SOURCES of INFORMATION, which circumstances g the threw in my way, with respect to this Di- : vision. My first view of it occurred, in tra- or the| velling from London to Devonshire, in the bs early part of July, 1791,—by the way of ago Basingstoke, and Stockbridge, to Salisbury;
where I staid a few days, to examine the country, round this finely situated place; : and from thence, by Blandford, and Dor-~ chester, to Bridport. The next line I made
296 PREFATORY OBSERVATIONS.
across it was, in the middle of September, in the same year, from Mere to Salisbury, and thence, as before, to Basmgstoke. The third was in the middle of October, 1791, from Rumsey to Salisbury, and thence to Bridport. The fourth, in the wane of the same year, from Bridport by Salisbury, to Basingstoke. The fifth, the same road, in 1793. The sixth, in April, 1794, from Pew- sey, down the bourn, or valley, of Ames- bury; thence across the Downs, by Or- cheston and Heytesbury, to Warminster: and thence, by the Deverells and Knoyle, to Shaftsbury. Lastly, from, Devizes, by Everley, Ludgershall, and Andover, to Ba- singstoke. And, beside these lengthened lines, I made a shorter excursion, in June; 1791, from Petersfield, by Alton,&c. ta Farnham.
GENERAL VIEW| OF THIS DISTRICT. In giving a brief account of this wide tract of country, I shall pursue the same
plan, I have followed, on former occa- sions.
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 297
tee) SITUATION. Its northern boundary | The is formed, by the rich lands of Berkshire, 1791 and the vale, or broken valley, of Pewsey, aise which separates it from the Marlborough the Hills: its western, by the broken grounds of Somersetshire,&c.: its southern, by the {0 New Forest; its eastern by the Heaths of adi\ Surrey and Hampshire, and the West Downs Vew- 4 of Sussex. Atnes- The EX TENT of this Division, from y Or- east to west, is near sixty miles; from north Inster; to south, twenty to twentyfive; comprizing hoyle, twelve to fifteen hundred square miles of es, by surface. 0 Bas ELEVATION. It is a striking fact, hened that the Chalk Hills of Yorkshire, of Nor- June folk, of Buckinghamshire, and of the several Xe, to divisions of the Southern Counties, are of a similar height; all of them rising to upland elevations, some of them to what are empha- tically termed heights; but none of them are mountainous: their mean elevations, above thesea, being, to common observation, near] y the same.
SURFACE. It is equally observable, that, in the formation of the areas, or interior surfaces, of all chalky hills, there is a strik-
a ing likeness: rotund knolls, or more length- ae| ened ridges, divided by smoothly sided. val- same lies, of various depths. And in almost every Be range I have examined, the rise on one side
is sudden, and abrupt,—showing a broken
298 DISTRICT.
steep or cliff,—from the top of which the hills sink, in irregular gradation; at length shelving, smoothly, and often gently, into an extended flat; frequently of rich soil.
These circumstances are more dist Inguish- able, where the range of hill is narrow— single—than where acongeries of such ranges are crowded together, disorderly; as they are in the instance more particularly under no- tice; whose varied surface will best appear, in the following extracts from my Journals,
BASINGSTOKE TO SALISBURY. The Chalk Hills begin, with a gentle rise, a few miles before Basingstoke, and continue rising, with an easy ascent, and with intervening dips, for ten or twelve miles, to Popham Beacon; thence falling, with an almost regular de- scent, and for nearly the same length of ground, into the Valley of Stockbridge; leaving, however, some broken high lands, on the left.
The Valley of Stockbridge is narrow; and, on the west side, the Chalk rises ab- ruptly, and reaches to a height, greater, perhaps, than that which has been passed. trom those second heights, which divide the counties of Hants and Wilts, the road, for another distance of ten or twelve miles, sinks gradually to Salisbury;—leaving, as before, some bold high lands, to the left.
The Environs oF Sarispury. Smooth rotund eminences are seen from every point
———
ent
Fe a pn ee 1S PIE a net mtn)
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 209 hich th of view; the towm being happily situated, t length in a wide shallow bason, in the midst of J) Into them; at the conflux of three brooks; each soil. having its accompanying dell; forming one Nguish. river, and one broad, well wooded valley, Trow— below the town. From the lofty site of the anges castle of Old Sarum is a very extensive circle hey are of views: a still wider sea of chalky waves, der no| AMESBURY TO WARMINSTER. Ascend the appear, downs behind Amesbury Park: extensive ournals, naked views, smooth and beautiful. Enter e Chalk the plain, or more level part of the downs, V miles at Stone Henge. The surface gently flow- ”, with ing; tamer even than the high wolds of > dips, Yorkshire, and more extensive. Cross a -acon gentle dip at Orcheston, and leave a fine lar de- valley, on the left, below Chiltern. Sur- th of mount another plain: the surface gently ridge waving, as before. Descend, abruptly, into 1 lands the vale, or broken bason, of Heytesbury
and Warminster; leaving high rugged hills arrow; tothe right. weal: Wa RMINSTER AND TO SHAFTSBURY. From vreater, the su mmit of one of these heights, a striking ‘passed suite Of views are commanded.; One of So- ane| mersetshire is extensive; the others are cir- iota cumscribed, by the Steep and lofty Chalk miles Eee here form a fertile bay of silty isdias soll; in which this and other detached. hil- ° locks rise, as islands; and diversify the sur- Lt face in a singular manner. et Leave the broken environs of Warmin-
300 DISTRICT.
ster; ascend the downs, by a gentle rise; and reach the summit. Most extensive pro- spects! an ocean view: free on every side. Dorsetshire, Somersetshire, and Wiltshire, are overlooked, to an extraordinary extent. The surface of these downs boldly swelling. Descend to a lower stage; and still lower. Leave the Chalk Hills, and drop, abruptly, into the Valley of Knoyle: the very Weald of Kent or Sussex.
Devizes To LUDGERSHALL. The Chalk Hills are seen on the right; lofty,andin some parts rugged, but not uniformly broken into steep cliffs. Much cultivation appears on their sides, and towards their feet, in flat artificial stages, with steep“ linshets” be- tween them. Reach the foot. of the hill, and leave the Vale of Pewsey; entering the“ bourn” or valley of Amesbury; a chalk-hill valley of the largest size. Mount the eastern bank of the valley; overlooking in the ascent, a sequestered arable dip, or branch valley, on the left, and gain the top of the grassy down: another wavy plain, shelving gently southward, to Everley and Sudbury Hill; a high rugged eminence of a nature dissimilar to the surrounding heights; standing between the vallies of Amesbury and Winterbourn, which sink, steeply, on either side of it.
LuDGERSHALL TO BASINGSTOKE. The country being inclosed and wooded, the sur-~
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 30%
tle rise; face is the less discriminable: it appears to Ve pro- be a succession of tame upland swells, di- TY side, vided by dips and shallow vallies, Itshire, PETERSFIELD TO FARNHAM. The steep extent, face of the Downs, on this side, makes an ‘elling, angle; changing from a westward to a lower, northward direction; appearing to termi- ruptly, nate, abruptly, to the north of Petersfield, Weald, in a rugged promontory. From the brink | of this range of cliff, the surface shelves 2 Chalk gently, westward, intoa spacious dip, above In some Alton; sinking, by degrees, into the valley en) Into of Farnham. ars Ol REMARKS. The ARTIFICIAL SURFACE in flat which meets the eye, in different parts of shes| these hills, forcibly arrests the attention. It e hill, occurs on the steeper slopes; which are itering formed into stages, or platforms, with grassy wy; a ane provincially“ Lincuets,” between them. le This form of surface must have been pro- lip, of duced, at great expence, in the first instance, he top or by great length of time, in constantly plain, turning the furrows, downward of the slope. ey ali But as the turnwrest plow has hever, per- ah haps, had a footing, on this division of the Ag Chalk Hills, it is probable, that the stages dy under notice were formed, by hand; at some esury period, when manual labor, either through ly, on
an excess of population, or through the The means of feudal services, was easily obtained.
And the advantages, arising from the ope- e sul
302 DISTRICT.
ration, have no doubt repaid the first cost, with ample interest. The stages, or plat- forms, are equally commodious for imple- ments of tillage, as for carriages; beside retaining moisture, better than sloping sur- faces; while the grassy steeps, between the arable stages, afford no inconsiderable sup- ply of herbage; on which horses are ted= dered, or tended, while corn is on the ground; and which give pasturage to sheep, at other seasons.*
This sort of artificial surface is common, in different parts of the Island; and the an- tiquary might be less profitably employed, than in tracing its origin.
CLIMATURE. The harvests of these hills are late. In the first week of July, 1791, the hay harvest was barely begun: the season, however, was backward. In the middle of September, barley harvest, from Mere to Basingstoke, was at its height: the Downs strowed with harvest waggons: some barley in swath, and some uncut. But the weather had been unsettled.
* In going over the extraordinary site of the CASTLE ©F O_p Sarum, I had an opportunity of observing the great facility with which sHEEP are enabled to graze very steep surfaces; by a faculty, which nature has fur- nished them with, as MOUNTAIN ANIMALS, of short- ening or lengthening their legs, with respect to their bodies, at pleasure: a natural faculty that enables them to stand sideway to the slope; and, in that posture, to feed, with apparent ease, on almost perpendicular steeps.
jae
f Cost, * plat mple- eside ’ Sur n the sup- ted d the sheep,
mon, e an- oyed,
hese July, oun: n the from the some t the
ASTLE ing the ) graze as fr shorts their them eed,
)
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 303
WATERS. These hills are, in a manner, free from surface water. That of rain is imbibed, as fast as it descends. In the deeper vallies, where the mass of chalk is broken, and cleft perhaps to its foundation, the wa- ters, which the hills have absorbed, being checked, by some less permeable stratum, rise in profusion; forming copious brooks of limpid calcareous water,—whose fertiliz- ing qualities will be shown.
SOIL. No portion of the earth’s surface affords the geologist more interesting mat- ter, for his discussion, than the class of lands, now under consideration, The soils of chalk hills, where the chalk has no other super- incumbent load, than the cultured mold, are every where very similar. They are of a loamy nature, pale-colored, and of a depth proportioned to the elevation and surface of the bases, on which they rest..'The summits of the hills are, in general, thinly covered, are, in some instances, almost naked of soil; while the lower stages, and the flatter parts, are furnished with soils of a middle depth; and while the feet of the hills enjoy a deep, rich, and generally friable, sandy loam: such deep rich soils occurring, not only on the smooth or shelving side of the range of hill, but at the foot of the broken cliff; and, what is most observable, where the cliff is of great height,a line of rich, variously colored,
—— ae== RPT ETE as= burnt Xe)
8 SSS SSS SS eS= a
308 DISTRICT.
a village; as Chissenbury, Enford, Fittle- ton, Netherhaven; and, in the widest of these dilations is situated the market town of Amesbury: while Salisbury, the county town, occupies a conflux of similar dila~ tions: the only instance of the kind, the county affords.
The ROADS are everywhere good: even though they only lead to villages. The public roads are in general excellent. Flints set in chalk are the first of road materials.
STATE OF INGLOSURE-.: This] shall be the best enabled to convey, by ex- tracts from my Journals.
BASINGSTOKE TO SALISBURY. The state of inclosure varies. To the eastward, the country is mostly inclosed; much of it in large, square, regular, inclosures. More westward, it is entirely open; as are the tops of the higher hills, throughout. Ex- tensive views, with no other break, than what is given by corn, or flocks; fallows, or the sheepfold.
ENVIRONS OF SALIsBuRY. To the south- ward of the town, there are some well sized, square fields, with good live hedges(at least on three sides) apparently of forty or fifty years growth; yet, extraordinary as it is, many of these fields lie open to the roads! the fences on the sides next to the lanes lying in a state of neglect. And, to the north of the Avon, the country, for many
Fittle. lest ot town ounty dila~ I, the
even The
Flints
rials,
This| NY eX
state |, the it in More re the hc - than llows,
‘outh- ‘sized, t least yr filty 5 It i, ‘ads| lanes ) the many
~
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 309
miles every way, lies open; unless about villages and hamlets, and along the narrow bottoms of the watered vallies. To the eastward of Salisbury, an attempt has been made at inclosure; the ruins of the hedges being still evident: broken banks, with here and there a hawthorn. And similar in- stances are observable, in other parts of these Downs.
REMARK. Are we to infer, from hence, that chalk-down lands are not proper to be kept in a state of inclosure? Or that, where sheep are tended in flocks, and few cattle are kept, fences are not requisite? Or is the foliage of shrubs a natural and favorite food of sheep, and hence, in a country entirely naked of shrubs, and chiefly stocked with sheep, it is difficult to preserve a live hedge from destruction?*
LUDGERSHALL To BasiNGsToKE. The country is wholly inclosed; excepting a few plots, on the right, towards the higher open downs; mostly in large square fields; doubt- less from a state of open down; the hedges, in general, of a middle age: some instances of recent inclosure.
With respect te the present STATE OF APPROPRIATION of this tract of country, the mere traveller is liable to be deceived. From the more public roads, the whole appears
* See Vol, I. page 326: Nore.
310 DISTRICT.
to be ina state of divided property. But, on closer examination, much of it is found in a state of commonage. In the imme- diate environs of Salisbury, there are evi- dent remains of a common field; lying in narrow slips, intermixed, in the South-of- England manner; and, not far from it, a common cow pasture, and a common mea- dow. About Mere, I observed the same appearances.. In the Valley of Amesbury, much‘of the land remains, I understand, under similar circumstances; though they do not so evidently appear, in the arable Jands; which, by aggregation of estates or of farms, or by exchanges among landlords, or their tenants, lie mostly in well-sized pieces. But the after eatage, whether of the stubbles or the meadows, is enjoyed in common. And the grass downs of the com- mon-field townships are in a state of com- mon pasture, the year round; being stinted by the arable lands.
PRESENT PRODUCTIONS.‘Time and experience appear to have assigned, with considerable accuracy, the products suitable to the different soils and their si- tuations. Where the soil is of a sufficient depth, and of a nature, and in a situation, suitable to arable crops, we find these crops prevail: while the higher thinner soils are in a state of perennial sheep walk: and, where the chalk is covered with a cool
en ral
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. R11
| Bi, tenacious soil, we see plots of woodland; ound as between Ludgershall and Basingstoke; Mme. Warminster and Shaftsbury: and, on some Mave of the higher, cool-soiled hills of Hamp- ng shi rire, Wade are prevalent.
b-of- RNAMENTAL APPEARANCE. A ‘lwa great‘arailnity of view is observable, in all mea~ the chalky districts of the Island. The same visual effect, of open naked downs, bears sbury, some afhnity, to that produced, by broad ‘stand, sea views: the first sight is the most inte- 1 they resting. Nevertheless, the grandeur, that arable not unfrequently rises, from extensiveness, tes or and the beauty which, almost everywhere, lords, appears in the nearer views, prevent a sa- sized tiety: beside, there are few minds, that are rer of not exhilarated, if not enlarged, by exten- ed in sive prospects.
> COM It must, however, be some particular and com- chosen point, from whence nothing but an tinted extensive billowy surface appears: broken
wooded offscapes are generally seen; giving character, and distinction, to the Views.
Time
ioned, And‘there are few, in which nearer objects
ilict do not enter; as featured eminences, woods, ; 7 1~ 1 tara Ble Slee 6
ell SI villages, mills, sheep in scattered flocks;
Fit and, in the summer months, plots of corn, L..°°. waving perhaps with the wind, and giving
iation
ops a sort of animation, as well as variety, to
the scenery.
ls are
ah In describing the suRFACE of this tract )
“a of country, its ornamental appearance has
312 AGRICULTURE.
been, in some part, conveyed. The more striking places of view, that I find noticed in my Journals, are the higher eminences of the Hampshire hills; from whence the heights of Farnham, and the interior hills of Hampshire, are seen, on the one hand; and, on the other, the high lands of Buck- inghamshire, and the Marlborough hills; with extensive front views of the Wiltshire Downs; while the nearer grounds are, in some points, extremely beautiful: soft bil- lowy surfaces, broken by irregular masses of woodland, and smaller coppices; hang- ing, perhaps, on the brows and sides of the hills; with which, in magnitude, they often happily correspond. Again, Sudbury hill (near Amesbury) commands a circle of in- teresting views. That to the eastward is rich and extensive; terminating, perhaps, with the Buckinghamshire heights. And, from the upper part of Everley Downs, a still more extensive circle is commanded. To the westward, a lengthened view of the vale lands of Wiltshire, distanced by the hills of Somersetshire, and skreened, on the north, by the Marlborough heights, at hand: with Salisbury plains, and the entire range of the Wiltshire hills, towards the south; distanced by the woodlands of Hampshire; which, with a clear horizon, are probably seen backed by the Isle of Wight.. But, at the time I passed this extraordinary point
Sar’;
WESTERN CHALK HILLS.
313 a fi of view, a haziness obscured the farthest nae distances. 3
[t is almost needless to add, that it would the bein vain to look for the picturesque, in the "hills interior of these uplands: nor do I even find fand; one passage noted, as being highly pictur- ck able. Nevertheless, on their margins, espe- hills cially on their western border, where they shite blend with the broken grounds of Somer- are, I Setshire and Dorset, and form the natural tt bil. boundary of the West or ENGLAND, the Masses country becomes interesting in the detail, hang and abounds with picturable scenery. of the often if ins ard is MANAGEMENT rhaps, ert
And, OF
WIS, a
inded,
of the ES-TAT-E S.
y i
n the
se MY NOTES, on this subject, are neces- range sarily few: they relate to
sot Farm buildings,
shire Field fences. Ea
bly FARM BUILDINGS. In this division it, at of the Chalk Hills, we see the practices of oi the West of England, and of the lower lands
314 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
of the Southern Counties, mixing with each other. On the larger farms, the DWELLING HousE is usually of bricks and plain tiles,— the BARNS, and other orrices, of weather- boarding and thatch; acreeably to the Berk- shire and Surrey practice. While smailer farmeries, and some I have observed of con- siderable size, are entirely of mud and straw, —the West of England cob;—of which YARD FENCES are, almost invariably, and universally formed: their tops being secured with thatch, as the ridve of a root. CorT- TAGES, also, are commonl y’ of the same material, throughout the country. In the upper part of the Valley of Amesbury, I observed several new buildings‘s, formed with blocks of hard chalk: a material which ap- pears(there at least) to be coming into use.
In the plan and construction of farm buildings, the only particular that struck me, as being entitled to especial notice, is the practice ar setting: BARNS UPON PILLARS, in the manner in w Bich eranaries are usually set. I have observed, and not unfrequently, barns of a full size celisadl entirely from the ground, in this way: a practice which has probably originated, in the abundance of rats, with which the bourns, or watered vallies, are infested. Watered meadows are nurseries of them.‘They not only afford sweet roots and herbage, for their food;
oe
S,
‘ith each TELLING tiles,— eather. > Berk- Maller of con- straw, which dy, and “secured Cot- e same In the bury, 1 d with ich ap- Ng nto
of farm - struck otice, 1S [LLARS, usually quently rom the hich has tance of watered yiys are afford ‘foot:
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 315
but the sides of the trenches are convenient places, for their lodgement.
Remarks. In point of expence, the dif- ference between pillars and caps, and a brick foundation wall, may not be great; and the perfect dryness obtained, may repay the extraordinary expence of sills and flooring. Indeed, inthe thrashing floor, there is doubt- less, in a course of years, a considerable saving; beside the refuge which a barn of this kind must afford, to swine at all times; and to poultry, in wet weather.
FIELD FENCES. Some of the otp HEDGES, in the north of Hampshire stand on mounds; and have a mixture of the euonymus and other shrubs; and, like those on the hills of Surrey and Kent, are fre- quently injured, by the travellers joy(cle- matis vitalba): a powerful enemy to hedges.
The MODERN LIVE HEDGE is of hawthorn; and those of a middle age are mostly clean, and full of growth.
The only cuarps of YOUNG HEDGEs are two lines of very low rodded hedge; which, against sheep that are folded, by night, and carefully tended, by day, may be sufficient; but must expose the young plants, to nu- merous accidents.
On the lower stages of the hills, young hedges appear to be raised, without much difficulty, but on the higher more exposed sites, the hawthorn, perhaps, does not rise,
316 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
quick enough, to get out of the way of enemies; nor furnish itself, sufficiently, to give the required shelter, in such situa- tions.
Remark. If it be right, to inclose the more exposed heights, the BEECH, I am of opinion, would be found a most eligible hedgewood. In the Highlands of Scotland, I have seen beechen hedges equal, as fences, to brick walls; and, being kept pruned on their sides, are perhaps superior to them in point of shelter.
The DEAD FENCE, principally, or solely, in use, is a hedge made with naked hazel rods, interwoven among stakes, in the wattle manner. Many thousand rods of this fence are seen, in travelling across the country: notwithstanding the materials, to some parts, are to be fetched many miles; the expence of making considerable; and the duration short. Two such hedges, with a line of young beeches, set between them, would be a fence, in perpetuity.
The HEDGEROW TIMBER of this tract of country is, of course, inconsider- able. The recently planted, and middle- aged hedges are free from it. In the north of Hampshire, some oaks are seen, in the hedgerows; and, in the vallies, elms are common: also willow pollards; not only in the hedgerows, but by the sides of the main conduits, in the areas of the meadows.
RS.
el) tly, ty|
2 situa.
ose the Lam of eligible
‘otland,
S fences, ‘uned on them in
“solely,
1 hazel > wattle is fence untry; ne parts, expence duration Jine of would
of this onsider=
middle:
ne nor in the Img are t only of the
ALOWS,
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 317
In a country, destitute of coppices, win- LOW POLLARDs must be found highly useful; as furnishing a supply of stakes, and of rods, and rails, for various purposes of husbandry.
WOODLANDS AND
‘ PLANTING.
THE NORTH of Hampshire is well wooded. Mostly in a state of coppice, for fuel, hurdles, and dead hedges. Some oak timber is observable, on the lower red-soiled lands, and, even on the higher grounds, stooping stunted oaks are seen; but in situa- tions altogether improper for them. If it be right to attempt to grow TIMBER, in these situations, the beech, would, undoubtedly, be found preferable to the oak.
With respect to PLANTING, the Wolds of Wiltshire and Hampshire remain in the same state, in which the Wolds of York- shire were, twenty or thirty years ago. From Everley Downs, I observed some rag- ged clumps of stunted firs; the almost only attempts at planting,’I did observe: unless about places, with a view to ornament: and except an instance or two, between
318 WOODLANDS.
Salisbury and Basingstoke, of recently form- ed belts, or skreen plantations, in which the beech appeared conspicuous.
RemMARK. This appears, to me; Je most eligible kind of plantation, for these bleak naked hills; especially those in nuke more central parts of Wiltshire, where coppice wood, and coals, are equally far to be fetch- ed; where wood may be said to be the na- tural fuel of the country; yet, at present, without a coppice wood, to supply its wants. In Salisbury, there is a spacious place called the“ wood market”: and, formerly, every township must necessarily have had woodland.
AGRICUL TUR&.
FARMS. The puan of farms, as of townships, is in some measure given, in the nature of the country. Under the pre- sent system of management, every farm requires a portion of arable land, of sheep walk, and of meadow.‘The great incon- veniency, of this distribution of the lands, is the situation of the farmery; which is necessarily placed, on one side of the arable ._lands; and that side the lowest.
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 319
form.| To obviate, in some degree, this incon-
ich the veniency, barns have been scattered, on the
higher Downs, where these are in a state of
fia aration; to prevent the length of carriage, eak
ef corn and manure, Which is otherwise more requisite. I have observed sheep ponds,
Pplee near these barns, which, with their sheltered etch-| yards, are capable of being rendered ser- le na- viceable to sheep, in severe weather. resent, REMARK. On every extensive estate, it Wants, is highly probable, sites, eligible for HitL called, FARMS, might be found. See IsLeor Tua- every NET, in page 41. adits The sizes of farms are extremely various. Many large ones are seen, in every quarter of the tract of country under examination. Nevertheless, in every“bourn,” small far- meries are observable. Where perennial sheep. walk, and the fold, make essential parts of the plan of management, farms of sufficient size, to maintain flocks large 3 enough to employ distinct shepherds, are as of doubtless most eligible. But, in speaking ell, Ill of sHEEP, it will be shown, that such is the e pre power of invention, when urged by natural r fart necessity, that even the lowest class of far- sheep mers are enabled to keep sheep, and fold incol- their arable lands, with a degree of pro- Jands, priety. ich 18 Upon the whole, this division of the Chalk rable Hills may be deemed a most desireable coun-
try, to farm in. Sound sheep walks: arable
134; as oblitera ted oO;
t '
oerfectly resembli ng the hi oh wolds of York- ¥
I(se te v
1 ful] ider-
and
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 331
euires so much do the different ranges of ae Hills, in England, resemble each +14,
WATER MEADOWS. To gain a ge- reral idea of the wate:‘ed grounds, of this quar ter of the sland was the principal motive for my st»pping 19, to examine the en- virons of Salisbur y,in the summer of 1791; and for my passing through the Valley of Amesbury,-as well as of viewing the cele- brated meads of Orcheston, in the spring of 1794.
I cannot convey the information, which I received on this subject, more intelli gibly, than by transcribi: 1g the notes of my Jour- nals. It is not my intention to treat the subject, analytically, in this place. Were I even prepared for the task, Mr. Davis’s Report, of the practice of WILTSHIRE, to the Boia OF AGRICULTURE, would, in some measure, preclude the necessity of per- fort ming it.
Previously to the detail, it may be pro- per to observe, aha the most accurate prac- tice is found, where the cout itry lies open; and where the prevailing soil, of the uj p- per grounds, is of a dry, absorbent quality; and unfriendly to natural herbage; and, of
course, where permanent grass grounds, or nado lands, are confined to the narrow bases of the vallies. In the north of Hamp- shire, where a cooler more retentive soil is
Q
33% AGRICULTURE.
not unfrequent, the meadowy bottoms of vallies are mostly suffered to remain, in their natural flat state. For, here, the ex- traordinary expence of forming them pro- perly, so as to give water its full effect, was not necessary; and, therefore, they lie, in an unprofitable state: frequently occu- pied by flags, and other coarse aquatics: the produce being not of one fourth of the value, of that of the best formed meadows, in the environs of Salisbury, and in the
Valley of Amesbury.
Between BASINGSTOKE and SALISBURY.
1791. Fuly 4. The vallies that wind among these hills are deep, and their bases narrow; but mostly flat, and meadowy: some of them in a state of neglected swamp; occupied by sedges, and other aquatics. But, more generally, they are firm; and are wa- tered, with limpid brooks!
1793. March 29. Throughout Dorset- shire, and more particularly through Wilt- shire and Hampshire, the vallies between the Chalk Hills are watered, with the sheer brooks, that severally belong to them. The effect, now, fully appears, and is far beyond any thing I had conceived: superior, even to the best effect of the slate waters of Devonshire. The appearance, at this time,
stalily
WESTERN CHALK HILLS.
not of a few particular pints, but of entire vallies, is that of rank wheat, in the spring. The grass, now, beginning to be folded off, with sheep; as rye, in Surt rey or Sussex! The soil is mostly thrown into ridge and furrow: wi= deep floating trenches,‘on the tops of all tl eridges: Ww hether long or short. Query, a oe water, retained in these deep trenches, convey nutriment to the soil, and substrata? ar give them, more readily, a plenitude of moisture? or whence their apparently unnecessary dimensions?
4s
ENVIRONS OF SALISBUR
1791.“fuly 5. Walk up the bourn, to Stratford. The: hagadows are less than a quarter of a mile, in width: lying every way flat; and, towards the town, very low: in some parts, a mere swamp: the water level with the flat surface of the ground. The herbage mostly coarse aquatics: even the bog bean /men yanthes 1 oe tta) is abun- dant. On the sides of the} fescue luxuriates. But the a on the whole, is of little value.
To these f fenny grounds, succeec inon stinted cow pasture: ve glected: the surface siesta by rushes.
But, above this, are some charming Watered grounds:
fs) mG
334 AGRICULTURE.
furrow: evidently artificial. Large deep Hoating trenches, on the ridges; narrow drains, in the furrows. One of them is a common meadow—* Lammas land.”
Many of these meadowsare still unmown: the water is now on one of them; stealing its way, unseen, among the orass.
Willow pollards are numerous, in all these meadows.
Walk down the valley of the Avon, below the town, to Ivychurch. A rich flat of land: nearly, I apprehend, a mile in width: evi- dently water-formed: level from side to side: and with little descent, down the val- ley; the Avon serpentining through it: with Jateral branches, natural or artificial, spread- ing the water, so as to irrigate,—provincial- ly“«drown,’’—the entire flat. Almost every fence ditch is a conductor: and others of
considerable size, as six to eight feet wide
eal
‘> cross the areas of the inclosures. From these, by means of small lifting flocdgates, the
oO
acting trenches are filled.
The whole valley may be said to be thrown into convex beds; about ten yards in width. Some pasture grounds are less regularly acclivated; but every thing, with- in the level, appears to be more or less watered.
The natural herbage, on the margin of the valley, above the level of the water, is short, and of a harsh nature: that of the
TITS yp:
now; at 4 o>) a
enue poe, the marsh and other bent gras: i ealing| an ttre cl ation ae
t| the meadow fescues: the lo»
: bratensis, here put tting on very d C
A et nces. On the e sid es of the: | J} a
nd dite
t land:| poe(ee ik are common: also the
mag a XK] LUCcagaody
| v rue(thalictrum flavum) and the ide to water dock. O 1e meadow I observed was ne val- almost shaded over, with the common dock; with which appears to be a prevailing weed of read the well formed grounds; and almost the iiclal- only one. t every The soil is mostly a deep loam; the sub- hers of| soil, in the lower of the walk, a Hinty t wide,| gravel.
these,| Not one third of these meadows are yet os, the mown: the water now on some of the un-
mown grou
to be- what an excessive cost must these
n yard ight into Hae present:
3 P a} are less and setting floor og: ates
» witll ,) path=‘=
Le eEeMmpankine the river or Hon) emobank me bX I iV eC]
1B) q
| i
ft an|
Fh
Ih) q
336 AGRICULTURE.
pe
was so great and spirited a public work executed?
The meadows of the Avon, above the town. The valley still continues wide. The whole watered; and, mostly, in high, wide, convex beds; now loaded with luxuriant herbage. Scarcely any yet cut! Theentire flat forms one great machine of water-work: pools, floodgates, and water-courses of various di- mensions.
VALLEY OF AMESBURY.
1794- April 26. The upper part of the valley lies open to the downs; except a narrow slip of“ dry grounds’—old grass inclosures: no watered meadows; the banks of the river, here, lying high above its chan- nel.. But might not the slopes be watered, in the Devonshire manner?
The base of the valley widens, at Chisen- bury; where watered grounds begin. At Enford, a dilation of the valley is filled with “water meads.” Large flocks of ewes and lambs are now in them. The grass mostly folded off: some yet untouched.
Willow pollards are common in all these meads.
Near Netherhaven, observed some very wide, high, watermeadow beds: formed, doubtless, at a great expenice.
:.= hee i tSoaiaamiae> Eas ali oan rae= ag_
Work
lowy vhole nvex age, rns ools, Is di-
f the pt a ras annks chan- tered,
lisenl . At with 05 anid nostly
| these
very med,
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 337
Pass Durrington: numbers of sheep are now seen, in the meadows of this valley.
Environs of Amesbury. An extensive flat of tine meadows near the town.
Raygrass, now, the predominant herbage: the prevailing weed, the dock. Nota ma- rigold, nor a cardamine, to be detected: a proof of the soundness of these grounds.
The soil, a lightish-brown loam,—the subsoil, white earth; from one to two and a half feet dee».
The beds are very irregular: from five to thirty yards wide; and not often darallel. The smallest of the floating trenches mea-= sure nine inches deep, and twelve inches wide, at the bottom.
The river is, now, pent up, almost level with the surface of the meadows. A main conduit runs on the outside of the flat of water-formed land; conveying water not only to the meadows of Amesbury, but to those of the valley, below. On the inner side of this main conduit, a smaller chan- nel is cut, to feed the working trenches, of the particular meadow through which it passes. Other conductors pass down the mid- dle, or wind through the area of the flat, to supply the interior parts. The whole a SYS- TEM OF CIRCULATION,—very much resém- bling that oftheanimal system: see MIDLAND CounNTIES, article WATERING Mrapows-
VOL. Lr, Z
338 AGRICULTURE.
REMARKS.‘The meadows of AMESBURY, as well as those of the Avon, are proper subjects of study. It should be recollected, however, that the waters of chalk hills are tractable,—are not so liable to high floods, as ordinary brooks; which would not so well admit of“‘ hatches, mains, and carriers,” —would tear the works asunder; unless guarded with extraordinary care. How ad- vantageous, where calcareous water is thus under command! And how long the ad-
vantage has been reaped, in this division of.
the Chalk Hills; and in this, only.
The** Lonc-crass MrEaps” of ORCHESTON.
It will be right to premise, that my visit to these meadows, at so early a season,—the 26 April(1794) was a matter of circum- stance, rather than of choice; and all, I ex- pected to gain by it, was a general idea of their situation, their soil, and the formation of their surface, or the manner in which the water is applied to them; with little hope of ascertaining the herbage. But I happen- ed to find them, in a peculiar state; and a sketch of what struck me, in the cursory view I took of them, may be useful, to those who shall hereafter examine them, at a more favourable season.
SBURY, Proper lected ills are floods, not so rlers,” unless OW ad is thus the ad- sion of,
} ESTON,
NY Visit n—the
circum:
ll, Lex- ‘idea of ‘mation nich the le hope happen , and 4 cursory| afl, 0 em, a
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 339
» The situation of these grounds is a gentle dip, or shallow valley, formed by smooth easy swells of the Downs;—such a passage, as is frequently seen, towards the heads of vallies, in every chalk-hill district.
The soil, too. is a pale-brown loam; si-
milar to the soils usually found, in the bot- toms, between such chalky swells. It was, at the time I saw it, as firm and dry, as the Downs on either side of it.
The surface remains as nature left it: no artificial. formation, whatever, appears to have taken place. The part, which receives
- the benefit of the water, is merely a dilation
of the base of the valley; which, above and below this expansion, contracts, so as to give no width of Space, for the water to lodge upon; the sides of the valley shely- ing down, immediately, to’the channel of the rivulet: whereas, the surface of the mea- dowy part is level, or inconsiderably dishing.
This open part of the valley, containing some four or five acrés, is cut into four com partments, by cross fences. The uppermost includes, merely; a natrowing point of the dilation; and appears to be used as a pas- ture ground. The lowermost has, formerly, been inclosed; but the hedges having been neglected, it now, in effect, lies open to the downs. It nevertheless appears to be still used, aS a mowing ground. The two mid- dle divisions, containing only two or three
Z2
bd
aii if
Ne : ft > Mb)
| Br. f nd|} e | jai i & A
a Nee an
Te
340 AGRICULTURE.
acres, are those of which fame has long spoken in mystic language.
The water, by which such wonders have been wrought, is one of those periodical springs, that appear to be common to the chalk hills of this Island: similar to the GypsrtEs of Yorkshire, and the BourNns of Surrey and Kent.
The water of Orcheston usually breaks out(at some distance above these meadows) about Christmas: but, in 1794, not until within a few weeks before I saw them; and, then, the supply must have been inconsi- derable; as it only entered the middle mea- dows, with a feeble stream, the day I went over them; when a narrow slip of the up- permost ground, was deeply covered, with pale-colored, chalky water; as we fre- quently see similar hollows, in times of floods. The three lower grounds had lain,
- entirely dry, until that time: a circum-
stance which had not, I was told by:an elderly laborer, who has frequently mown in these grounds, been known within me- mory.
The herbage, at that time, and under these circumstances, was.as follows.
It varied in the different compartments, and appeared, throughout, in irregular plots.
Much of the lowest meadow,(and some small parts of the other) was thickly co- vered with a species of alppecurus, or fox-
tail ten ner or. the aud Mu | spl
Ste
5 long 5 have lodical to the o the
f }
Ns of, f
oreaks dows)
/
t until
ee
1; and,"| 1Consi= emea:
| went Ie up- , With @ free
mes of
ad lain,
ircum=
by all mown in me
{under
tments, f plots. | some ly(0° yr low
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 341
tail; which, in stature, resembled the pra- tensis, or meadow foxtail} but, in the man- ner of its growth, the geniculatus, or marsh, or flote foxtail. Some of this grass was then in head,—a few individuals in blow; and from two to two and a half feet high. Much of that which had not yet shot up its spikes, was from twelve to fifteen inches high: having the appearance, at some di- stance, of a very full crop of grass,—at this early season!
In the middle meadows, a soft open-blad-
.ed grass prevailed; apparently an agrostis, or bent grass; but not having then sent up its panicle, its particular species did not ap- pear.* This grew in small upright bunches, without any apparent aptitude to trail. The next most prevailing plant, in this compart- ment, was the mild, or creeping crowfoot (ranunculus repens) with some plants of the common crowfoot(ranunculus acris) then very tall and luxuriant.
The interspaces, of these tall plants and bunches of herbage, were in a manner bare; saving some scattered plants of nettles, com- frey, scorpion weed(myosotis scorpioides),
* In 1797,—By the information of a person, who
went to gather specimens of the herbage of these méa-
dows; presently before hay harvest,—* the springs did
not rise, as usual”; and he found them insa state of pas-
| turage;,“the grass not being good enough to mow”. The season dry.*
f-
342 AGRICULTURE.
and groundivy:—the last is a natural inha- bitant of dry banks; and isa strong symp- tom of the absorbency of the subsoil.
These grounds, I was told, are mown every year: sometimes twice. My infor- mant has cut three loads, an acre. The her- bage hangs together, as wool:—* hard work to mow it;—very long, Sir;—five feet high;—fourteen feet long.” But he spoke in the tone of enthusiasm; and pro bably by rote.
To gain full information respecting these extraordinary grounds(for such they doubt: less'are) they should have a day’s examina~ tion, presently before they are mown. The occupiers should be apprized,—proper tools be provided, to search beneath the surface, —and ample specimens of the subsoil, the soil, and the herbage should be taken. A specimen of the water, taken at the season, when it is known to be most beneficial, would likewise be requisite, for the purpose of analysis.
Remarks. By far the most important part of the information, that my transient view of these celebrated grounds afforded me, is the manner in which they are water- ed. Noart appears to be used; except that of diverting the rivulet, from its narrow channel, on one side of the meadow, and spreading it over the area, in one continu- ous pool of srAGNANT’ WATER! Not on the
| WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 342
Inge scientific principle of cIRCULATION; but on
symp: the more simple and natural one of rLoop- ING; agreeably to the obsolete practice of nowh FLOATING UPWARDS:* a practice which, it lors is highly probable, was once prevalent, in her- this part of the Island. The term“ prown- hard inc’, which is now inaptly applied to the -live modern practice, strongly corroborates this Mt he suggestion. Seeing the natural flatness, of | pros the vallies of these hills, little art is wanted, | to produce the required stagnation. And it these may be further conceived, that, where the loubt,= substrata were open, and suffered the re- mina maining moisture(after the body of the wa- The| ter was Jet off) to drain away, quickly, from tools the roots of the herbage, so as to permit face,| them to act, presently after the water was il, the| discharged, vegetation was rapid: whereas, nA.|“in places, where the. subsoil retained the aso, water, in the soil, it not only prevented a ficial, quickness of vegetation, but chilled the roots poe of the better herbage; and brought aquatic weeds in their stead. ortant These circumstances would naturally lead insient to some expedient, for getting rid of the su- ded‘ perfluous moisture of the soil, as quickly as water possible; and none was more apt, or more that easily obtained, than that of throwing the row soil into ridges, in the: manner in which it and now lies. Indeed, where the substrata are tinue, Pree, vy the»* See Mipranp Counrigs, Mip: 27. : ¢
344 AGRICULTURE.
retentive, this expedient seems essentially necessary, to the advantageous operation of water. The steep sides of hills are bene- fited, in a similar way. See West or Enc= LAND.
But where the substrata are sufficiently permeable, to suffer the superfluous water of the soil, to pass off quickly, so as toallow the roots of the herbage immediate power of action, such an expedient, if we may judge from the single instance before us, may not be necessary: may even be injurious.
A brief Sketcu of the GENERAL MANAGE- MENT of the WATERED GRrRouNpDs of WILTSHIRE.
The principal sEASON OF WATERING is the latter part of autumn, and the early part of winter. It begins soon after Michaelmas, and continues until between Candlemas, and Ladyday,—when the meadows are laid dry, for the EWES AND LAmBs; which continue in them, till about‘ George’s tide’; the latter end of April.
The meadows are then shut up, for HAY; and occasionally watered, as the season may require.‘hey are always mown once, and sometimes twice, for hay.
The arrercrass is invariably expended on cows: it being an universally received
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 345 ei opinion, which is probably founded on ex- is perience, that water meads, es they are i highly salubrious to sHEEP, in early spring, are danger ous to them in the summer | months. A remarkable fact: if such it is. tly ij The cows remain in the meadow, until the cr season of watering. ow SHEEP. The myriads of sheep, that are Mo ae AiGeenble on these hills, in the summer dye months, and, in the vallies, in the spring, fot||=. cannot fail to interest the agricultural tra- veller. The NuMBER is immense; and, by reason of the nakedness of the country, they are all seen. 7B The BREED, which has, perhaps, for cen- of turies, been in full possession of this Divi- sion of the Chalk Hills, appears, evidently, to be a variety of the horned sheep, of the G Is western mountains. See WEsT or ENG- mart LAND, Section SHEEP. nas,| They are distinguishable, from the sien and varieties of thisbreed of horned sheep, in their yy fe: size,and particularly in their height; being of nue the tallest sheep in the island. They are the also to be distinguished by the closeness of their horns, and the uniformity of their AY: heads; as well as by the nakedness of their nay barrels; theunder part being free from wool; nd having only a thin ¢overing of short ely hair. led_ They are remarkable for an evenness of=} ee form; which, in the-best flocks, is, even i oe s pir a Pie:=
346 AGRICULTURE.
now, above mediocrity; fifty years ago, i they were, doubtless, the highest bred sheep,| eas in the Island. They are not only well ap formed, and well fleshed, but are able to wi travel far to their food, and to bear the fold. na Their wool, too, is of a good quality. Their bl color is uniformly white;—or some very ane few, wholly black!* be
The principal objection to this breed of sheep, on thin-soiled high lands, is their V size. Were it not for the watered grounds, D they could not have been so long supported; I nor could they, perhaps, without them, have A ever been brought to their present size.| H
The Southdown breed(which will be men- t tioned under the next Division of the Chalk tt Hills) are, at present, contending for the pos- a session of these enviable heights; and there I is little doubt, I believe, of their being sin- gularly entitled to them.
The riocxs are chiefly of breeding ewes; it having been long the practice of the west-
*Coror OF SHEEP. It isastriking fact, in natural! history, that of the different breeds of English sheep, though the male and female are perfectly white, and their
ancestry the same, perhaps, fog several generations, they are liable to produce a lamb that is entirely black. t Whereas, in most or all other species of anitnals, the t color of the offspring usually partakes of that of the sire h and that of the dam, jointly; being mottled, or of a shade between them. And, with respect to the faces and legs°s of English sheep, this is generally the case’; while the th
fleeces are wholly white, or wholly black.
; WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 949
a| ern Division of the Chalk Hills, to furnish the -‘ eastern Division with wedder lambs; as will
: appear in speaking of that Division: into“™ to
which, also, the Southdown breed, is now : making its entrance: so that the long esta- er| blished breed of Wiltshire and Hampshire
ay are routed, in every quarter; and may soon be extinct." of:- On the MANAGEMENT Of SHEEP, a cursory hett view of a country cannot afford full intor- nds, mation. Nevertheless, one who has.a know- ed ledge of the general subject, and who is; lave| accustomed to make observations,: catches many particulars of practice, which a mere en- traveller is lable‘to miss.. By observing alk the Wiltshire flocks, at different seasons, 0S: and by conversing with intelligent shep- lere| herds, who occasionally fell in my way, I sin- have gained, I find, sufficient imformation, to give a sketch of wes;| The Economy of the EWE FLocK. The et-| rams are admitted, in October; with the
intent of giving the lambs the full advan® tage of the water meads; that they may acquire an early luxuriance of growth: not altogether, through a flush of milk, from the ewes; but by being permitted to par- take of the-choicest morsels, of the, rich her bage, which these watered grounds altord; especially the flote fescue, which grows by
the sides of the trenches, and the raygrass,
*
348 AGRICULTURE.
23 a
with which the whole abounds: it being customary to suffer them, to run before the ewes; by leaving narrow. passes, between the hurdles, to permit the lambs, and re- strain the ewes.
At night, they are folded, on the arable lands, in the neighbourhood of the mea- dows; the ewes having hay given to them, in the fold; to correct the succulency of the herbage:: while the warmth of the fold, at this early season, is probably of advan- tage to the lambs.
‘During summer, the ewes and lambs have the best of the cultivated herbage, of the leys that have been mentioned; with tares, or other green food, in the fold, at night: every endeavor being used, to force the lambs, forward, to the greatest size possible, for the seen FAIR Of WEYHILL(held at Michaelmas) where the wedder lambs are mostly sold. With this view, they are suffered to suck the ewes, all the summer; being weaned only a few weeks, before Michaelmas; when the best of them are put to rape, or other forcing food, to fill them out, for market: the worst being kept on, for store wedders; and are put out to winter feedage, in the low grounds, with the ewe lambs, the first winter, at the high price, I understand, of six or seven shillings, a head, from Michaelmas to Ladyday.
— Ww FY ra
ay
WESTERN. CHALK HILLS. 349
The culled or offcast ewes go chiefly, I believe, into Somersetshire; to be fatted on the‘* moors,” or marshes, at that eounty.
The young ewes are kept on the higher downs, the year round; hay stacks being seen scattered, on the lis for their relief, in winter.
The sHEEPFOLD of this country is set
out very large; especially, perhaps, for ewes
and lambs. One, for seven hundred ewes, or large, lambs(or three hundred and fifty Ae in July) measured fiftyseven yards, by fortytwo; which give more than three square yards, to each, or near seven, to a couple.. And being usually fed, in these spacious folds, they probably experience little, if any, inconveniency, either from the confinement, or the want of food, during the time they are thus beneficially employed, in fertilizing the land.
The sHEEP RACK, made use of, in these large folds, is simple and eligible. Its form is nearly that of half a hollow cylinder, of about eighteen inches in diameter, and six or eight feet long. It is formed, either of rods, or of laths, bent in the manner of a waggon tilt, or awning; spaces being left for the sheep to get at‘the ter which rests on the ground,—its natural basis; where it is effectually protected, from aucs by this simple guard. Several of these racks are
placed, in different parts of the fold, pre-
aie->.»*AGRICULTURE.
viously to the sheep being admitted. They are cheap, readily filled(by turning them on their backs) and easily removed.
In the coMMON=FIELD TowNnsuIpPs, where the farms are many of. them small, and the lands lie interm#xed,—and where it would be in a degree impracticable, for individuals to keep separate flocks, and graze and fold their own lands,—“ Town Fiocxs” have been established.
To these, each occupier has the right of contributing a number of sheep, propor- tioned to the land he occupies: and the joint flock of each township are placed un- der the care of one principal shepherd; who, with respect to his flock, considers the entire township as one farm; depasturing, with them, the downs, the lower grounds, and the meadow lands, in common; and fold- ing them, on every man’s land, according to his right, or agreeably to the established regulations of the township.
Theory may suggest, that endless diffi- culties, and disputes, must necessarily arise, from individual properties, and separate in- terests, being intermixed and rendered com- mon. But the long established practice, under notice, serves to show, that, where a common compact. is requisite, to secure the interests of individuals, men’s minds, seeing the reason and fitness of the regulation, be- come reconciled to. small difficulties, and
eee
a
#
op
WESTERN CHALK HILLs. 351
are satisfied to give and receive, recipro= cally, as circumstances require.:
CATTLE, The cows, observable in'this District, are mosh ge! the long=horned BREED; and those of'thelarger farmers are, some of them, good of*this®sort. But a gréat mixture and diversity are seen; few of them being bred in the country. Those of the smaller farmers, are many of them very mean.
‘They are kept on the downs, in com- MON HERDS; each township, or hamlet, having its cow-herd; who drives them to the downs, tends them there, and brings them back, in the evening, to be milked; distributing them among their respective owners, who take the charge of them durin the night; the herdsman collecting them, ‘in the morning, by sound of horn: a cus- tom, probably, of many centuries standing. I have seen a hundred head, at least, in one of these*‘ town herds.”:
In summer, when the weather is sultry, the cows remain in the house or yard, and are fed, there, ,with grass and weeds, col- lected, for. them;—or are suffered to drop their dung unprofitably, in lanes or other shady places,—during the heat of the day; and are driven to the down, in the.cool of thaeyening,=. 5
STATE OF HUSBANDRY. The out- LINE Of-mandgement appears to be well'
352 AGRICULTURE.
suited, to the soil, the climature, and the present state of inclosure; and, 1n some in- stances, the EXECUTION is highly commend- able;—the soil clean, and in good condi- tion: while, in many others, it is equally reprehensible; the leys occupied by weeds; with but little nutritious herbage, to sup port the flocks, that are pining away upon land, which, under proper culture, would afford them an ample maintenance. The wheat stubbles, too, are often seen, in a state of extreme foulness: and this, not- withstanding the crops of wheat, on the ground, generally look well: the dung and the fold, both of which are mostly expended on this crop, more especially the former, enable it to surmount all difficulties, of foulness in the soil. But the crop removed, the land reverts to its former state of un- roductiveness.
The IMPROVEMENT, whieh strikes most forcibly, in a cursory view of these hills, is that of CLEAN TILLAGE; which, perhaps, can only be effected, by a change of the present unwieldy pLow, and extrava- gant plow TEAM.‘There is little if any land,| apprehend, witbin the District now under consideration, that might not be per- fectly well plowed, with two horses, and a proper plow: I mean, after it is once re- claimed from its present state of foulness.
If the loose nature of the Chalk-Hill soils
| the e in- end. yndi« ally
v
ods«
y Up pon yuld The In a not the and ided ner, , of ved, “Ue
rikes hese hich, ange “aVae “any
now
pel nd a
% he*
WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 353
require that they should be bound together, with roots, to secure the wheat erop, let them not be: the roots of couchgrass; but those of raygrass, white clover, trefoil, or some other useful’ plant;‘in the manner, light sandy lands are held together, for that crop, in NORFOLK. Dibbling the seed, into the whole furrow of clean raygrass and clover leys, either by hand, or by a dibbling roller, ought to be tried, with attention.
BREAKING uP the higher powns, that have been, time immemorial, in a state of pasturage, especially those which are now partially overgrown with heath and coarse herbage, would strike most observers, as an obvious improvement.
This, however, appears, to me, too im- portant a subject, to be decided upon, with- out very mature consideration: and the pro- priety, or impropriety, of doing it, in aay case, may depend on a variety of circum- stances.
There are, doubtless, tracts of land, on these hills, that ought to be changed, from. their present unproductive state. The one, which struck me most, lies between Peters- field and Alton, in the eastern quarter of the Hampshire Downs. It is of consider- able extent. The soil a deep loam, on gravel,—on chalk! Its present produce is heath and bushes. By cultivation, it might’ be rendered of three times its present value,
VOL. 11. Aa
354 AGRICULTURE
to the community. And there may be other tracts of a similar nature.
Even on the more ordinary Downs. of Wiltshire, especially on the higher swells, there are lands that oa in much pro- babilfty, be improved; particularly those, on whicha light, black, spungy, vegetable mold prevails: not however by tillage, I apprehend; but by singing off the heath, and other rubbis} 1, W hich at present occupy much of the surface; and, ee. by LIME and HEAVY ROLLING. A trial, at least, ought to be made.
But, in regard to the firm, clean, produc- tive sheep dow ns, which cover a very large portion of the upper parts of these hills, it might be difficult, perhaps, to devise means of Tendering t them more valuable, in any other state, than that in which they are, at present;—more especially, while the coun- try remains under its present system of management: improved they doubtless may be; particularly with the SHEEPFOLD. But fies is limited, and slow in its progress, and is peculiarly valuable to. the ARABLE LANDS.
OD
e/
pe fee es THE Swale
+h-
a SOUTHERN DIVISION ctaDIe.
OF THE eon JNU)
)\ least,||‘TT AY 2 CHALK HILLS. roduc- y I¢ rve es~ SN eS=; ‘lls. i THIS NARROW tract of country shoots
ens eastward, from the Hampsuire Downs: ea having the rich flat of the Sea Coast oF ams SUSSEX, to the south; with the sandy-loam tno a| District oF Petwortu, and the WEALD cr OF SUSSEX, on the north; being terminated es to the east, by the ine LANDs of PEVEN- : But SEA. See is.
es The EXTENT, from east to west, we 3 fifty to sixty miles; the earl h—three to 5 six miles; the superficial contents—two to
is
three hundred square mj
QUare tiili 22 The ELEVATION of this ra inge of-hills is similar to that of other chal]
uk. downs: and, lying along the sea coast, their exact heieht might e
ght easily be ascertained.
Th SURFACE, too, th 1ey resemble other
chalk hills: except that the narrow range, Aae2
356 DISTRICT.
now under view, are separated, by deep vallies, into five distinct compartments: the waters collected in the District of Petworth, and the Weald of Sussex, finding passages to the sea, through these vallies.
Remarks. What affords interesting mat- ter of reflection, to the GEOLOGIsT, the col- lecting surfaces have a natural tendency, to bring the waters towards these passages; so that no Jake, or collection, is formed, in
‘any part of them.
Were the vallies worn, by waters, origi- nally pent up, behind the hills, while the chalk was yet ina soft papous state? or did the same force, which separated the line of chalk, rend the clay and sand, while yet plastic; and did the closing of the chasms, give the present inclination of surface?
This is not a singular, though a striking case. The extraordinary outlet to the waters of the Vale of Pickering(see YORKSHIRE) as well as the rents, in the limestone heights, on its northern margin, are‘of a similar nature. In like manner, too, the Valley of Amesbury receives the waters of the Vale of Pewsey. The Medway, below Maid-
° x
stone, is let out, through the Chalk Hills.
of Kent, in a similar way: also the Stower, below Ashford; and the Mole through those of Surrey, at Dorking.
It is difficult to explain, on rational prin- ciples, the existing form of the earth’s sur-
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 357
face: yet how interesting is the subject, to those who inhabit it. If the nature of the materials of which it is composed, the vege- table productions it bears, and the animals it nurtures, are important subjects of in- quiry, surely, what the inhabitants of the earth may well term THE FACE OF NATURE, cannot be indifferent; especially to those whose station in life is to cultivate iti:‘to turn every portion of it to the profit of the species; and to suit every part to its most profitable purpose.
The hills, under view, give rise to ano- ther train of ideas, which relate to the for- mation of the earth’s surface; and belong to what might be termed the process of agi~ tation, which gave it the present form. The Downs of Sussex, and the opposite hills of Surrey and Kent, appear to have been im- pelled, in different directions. The hills of Sussex dip southward; shelving down to the rich lands of the coast; which probably rest on their skirts; the north side of these hills showing a steep broken cliff.
On the contrary, the hills of Surrey dip, northward, with a gently shelving surface, towards the Thames, and with a high bro- ken cliff, to the south; the low, vale dis- trict of Horsham Separating these two strongly featured ranges of high lands; which are prominently conspicuous to each
35 DISTRICT.
other; though they are placed nean twenty miles asunder:
The hills of England, most. generally, shelve southward, or eastward; seldom to the north or west. Thus, the mot and Wolds of Yorkshire; the Chalk Hills of 3uckinghamsnire, and;Hertfordshire; the Cotswold Hills of Glocestershire; and the Chalk Hills of Wiltshire’ and of Sussex,—
k ken steeps, to the oe or west. The hills of Kent and Surrey, the Isie of Wight, and and other h pees in he recollect ion, are€X- ceptions to this more gene ral rule.
A GEOLOGICAL Map of England, shaded somew hat agres eatilye to the sketch, 1 have given of Yorkshire, sho wing, not only its mountain, upland,‘and vale districts, but giving an adequate idea of their elevations, and casts of surface, would, in the instant, be a valuable acquisition to science. And. whenever the government of this country shall turn their attention to the country it- self, such a ma sight, the alevati on, the turn of surface, the waters, the soils, and the substrata, as they relate to AGRICULTURE, will be found to be an acquirement of considerable value.
A sketch of its AGRICULTURAL DEPART= MENTS I have attempted, with a degree of SUCCESS.
=
or maps pointing out, at|
ded lave y its
but lions, tant, And, ntry ite It, at >, the they to be
RES e Ol
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 359
THE four Vautigs, which separate the Sussex Downs, are those of Arundel, Shore- ham, Lewes, and Seaford. The part which is included between the Hampshire hills, and the valley of Arundel, is called the“« west ‘““powns:—the other four divisions—the ‘“‘ SOUTH DowNs”;——probably, in contradis- tinction, to the Downs of Surrey; which, as has been shown, are situated to the north of them.
To speak of the soutH powns, with greater ease and precision, it will be conve- nient to subdivide them, into the middle or main downs, included between the vallies of Arundel and Lewes; and the east downs, comprising the two smaller compartments, to the eastward of the valley of Lewes.
The INFORMATION, which I gained, respecting this department of the Chalk Hills, was gathered, in repeated excursions from PETwortTuH, and.was confined to the three most westerly, or principal divisions. The two, to the eastward, which are com- paratively small, I had not a favorable op- portunity of examining.
The SOILS of the Sussex Downs vary, from black, spungy, vegetable mold, toa strong, deep, flinty loam: this division par- taking, in the nature of its soils, equally of the eastern and the western Divisions: being, in this particular, a mean between them. The most prevailing soil, on these, as on all
eee= wes
———— eee ee ear ee.
" REET EE aa PT=—
360 DISTRICT.
other chalky downs, is a light-colored cal- careous loam.
The SUBSTRUCTURE aoe irs, in the different QUARRIES, which are worked, on the sides of the cliffs. Hiee quarries of oes in the upper part of the val- Jey of Arundel, are the most considerable; as they are favorably situated, on. the imme- diate bank of the Arun navigation:* the chalk being wheeled, by hand, down an easy descent, from the rock to the ge These eves show a uniform mass of chalk, from
one to two hundred feet in depth: the face eae kept, nearly perpendicular. The whole is thrown down, by hand, with- out blasting; and is convey ed tothe barges in large Beane(with two small\ wheels) carrying a quarter of a ton, each; the chalk being weighed into the barrows.
By ANALYSIS, with the marine acid, three specimens, taken from the upper, the middle, and the lower strata of the loftiest of the Houghton quarries, yielded as follows: the upper and middle strata afforded only one grain of residue, each! the lower stratum three grains,—a grey, sub-tenacious silt. The inconsiderable portion of indissoluble matter, of the great mass of these rocks, is of a brown color, and fine enough to insi- nuate itself into the pores of the paper.
* See the WEALD OF SUSSEX.
ee
—
= aa)
a a ne xn eee||
— lomo
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 36
It is to be observed, that, when chalk is
intended to be burnt into lime, especially
with wood, the blocks and larger pieces, only, are used. The rubble and smaller
pieces, which break off, in quarrying, are unsaleable; and are thrown aside, as rub-
bish: hence, the immense mounds, which
are noticed, in the District or PeTworrn,
as a proper subject, for experiment: See
| page 176.
The quarries of Duncton, in the moreim- mediate face of the northern cliff and from which the western extremity of the Weald of Sussex is supplied, with chalk, for lime, disclose, on the contrary, a variety of strata. The upper parts of the steep are composed of‘* white chalk’, which is burnt. for ma- nure, and answers to the white chalk of the Houghton quarries;(the hill, here, being much higher, than at Houghton): beneath this, is a deep stratum of“ grey- chalk”, which is burnt for cement, and is of a su- perior quality, for this purpose: and, be- low this, is a bed of« marl’’;—a still fouler chalk: the more immediate base of the hill being the“ maam” soil, which is particu- larized, inthe District or PErwortru.
REMARKS. This species of STRONG CAL- CAREOUS soIL* is not peculiar to the West
se,
* By ANALYSIS, the MAAM SOIL(or black“ wheat land”) of Duncton(at the immediate foot of the hill) yielded
362 DISTRICT.
Downs of Sussex, but is to be found, per-
laps; ina greater or less qual ae, at, the
foot of every h a— cliff of this Island. { have observed it at the foot of the Betch- worth hills, in cit: Maamscot and Wrotham hi.ent, at the foot of the Hampshi re‘ the Wiltshire hills, by Warminster. Where- ever the height of the cliff is greater, than he depth of the mass of chalk which forms it, this species of soil, which appears to be its natural adjunct, is probably to be found, at its base.
It may be observed, that, in one of the quarr ies of white chalk, in the of the face of the steep, above Duncton, a thin stratum, or list, of tl in thickness, runs, nearly taking a somewhat wav pe across the middle of the quarry. I Thad ¢ some thing of the a ppearance of fuller’s earth; but is cal- careous. The quarrymen salt it©** marl flour.” It is a species of calcareous fossil, I have not noticed, elsewhere: at least, not ia similar situation.*
S
—_ noe Ba = —) aot
{ O te
IIs 1
q&
hree or four inches rizontally, but
Ds
Q
onl ly seven and a half grains,—while that of I LG (of a browner color, and interspersed with granules of G nay afforded fortyfive and a half grains, percent, of alcareous matter. The residue, of both, brown silt: that of the latter being the finest, and most tenacious. * By ANALYSIS, with; the marine actdy an hundred grains of this fossil yielded fortyone grains.of calcareous
qe Air 5] Agr+f lis, near Petersfield, and of
etch-
and F the d of lere- than
tobe| ound,
5 cal- marl ssil,| Not
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 363
»
STATE:;OF.. INCLOSURE::|‘These downs being little more than a si ngle range of hills, they are chiefly laid to the town-
hi them. Hence, even
the small v age inclosures, which are seen on most other chalk hi ik are here,'except in a few ji Instances,\ Wiz imriitg,.
The PRESENT RODUCTIONS BOGE this tract of hill count me are similar to eho of the western Division. The va..irs con- tain meadows, and marsh lands—provin- cially«brook lands.’ Thestoi— an duowsR STAGES Of the HILLS, bear arable crops. The Tops of the HILLS are sheep walks: are of fine turf; but with a mixture of‘furze and beath. And some of the sTEEPER su RFACES,
cat pend©
earth; leaving fiftynine grains of impalpable matter; rese embling ful ler’ s earth, but somewhat darker Calcwed.
For analyses of the cHaLtks of Duncron;’ sce the District oF PETworTH, page 182.
The“‘ Marx” of Deans Woop, on ee opposite side of the hill(mentioned in page 237.) yields ninety- eight grains, perce: nt, of calcareous matter.
"The“MARLS” of the spa COAST(see page 226.) yielded as follows: a specimen taken from an undis- turbed Beet in the face of the beach, pres ently after being left by the tide, and then in a state of firm paste, yielded(having| been previously dried) ninetysix grains,
—another specimen, picked up loose on the be: ach, in the tide’s way, ninetyeight and a half grains, percent being of course a ch alk of the purest, and most valuable quality; yet suffered, century after century, to lie in a
tate of neglect, rd useless to. the species! nee as above.
364 DISTRICT.
especially of the West Downs, are hung with wegod.
In the light of ORNAMENT, this range of chalk hills differ, little, from the York- shire and the Wiltshire Downs: excepting that the sea, here, generally enters into the view; and excepting a lovely passage, round Findon,(a well soiled, well sheltered flat, or midway stage, of the compartment be- tween the vallies of Arundel and Shoreham) which is one of the most habitable situa~ tions, I have any where observed, upon the chalk hills of England. In other respects, whether we view the abrupt broken cliffs, or the summits which crown them, or the opposite margins, shelving to a rich vale district, the South Downs, the Downs of Sur- rey, and the Wolds of Yorkshire, are the same. The passages of country, between Shoreham and Brighthelmston, between Croydon and Epsom, and between Beverley and Driffield, have a striking similarity in their appearances.:
The most interesting cIRCLE OF VIEWS, that caught my eye, on these hills, are seen from the West Downs, above Arundel park. Two of them are singularly grand, and
yarious in feature. On the one hand, the:
wooded declivity, from Arundel to Good- wood, spreads, as a foreground. Chichester, the Isle of Selsey, and the rich lands of the coast, compose the center of the view: the
3
With
range York. pting 0 the ound flat, It be- cham) situa- on the pects, clits, r the
vale {Sur- re the tween tween erley
ity in
EWS, e seel park. , ald d, the 00d: ster, f the . the
|
|
}
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 36.
sea, and the Isle of Wight rising proudly Out of it, the distance: Spithead, with its shipping, forming a clear and interesting part of the picture. On the other, the finely broken grounds of Petworth and Pul- borough appear at hand, partially skreen- ing the vale of Horsham, backed by the Lethe Hills, which form a prominent and striking feature; Box Hill, and other hills
of Surrey, appearing in the furthest dis- tance.
WOODLANDS.
THE PRINCIPAL part of the Wood- lands, of these hills, hang on the southern declivity of the west powns; with some on the northern steep, of the same com- partment.
These woods are chiefly BEEcH; but with a mixture of oak, and Asn.
Near the foot of the southern hang, above Walberton, is the finest GRovE oF BEECHES, { have any where observed. The trees are thick on the ground, and tall, beyond com- parison. Many of them are fifty feet, in the stem; as clean, and almost as straight, as gun barrels. In 1791, the largest size was four feet In girt; and if they remain, in
366 WOODLANDS.
the crowded state in which they then stood, their future growth must necessarily be re- tarded.‘The soil is a dark-colored loam;
the subsoil—calcareous rubble, on a deep bed of marl: a true beech and sainfoin soil.
In thinning, oer rather culling, one of the beech woods. above Slindon, I observed,
that the WARE, cut out, was chiefly raILs, and other scantling, for the Northambers Jand COLLIERIES.
The durability of beech timber, in water and moist situations, being now well un- derstood, these woods will, no doubt, be henceforward of great value. And there are many sites on the chalk and limestone hills of this Island, on which it would pay am- ply for propagation.
The oak, and the asn, do not thrive, on the higher parts of these hills. The former bo stunted, and mossy: uae the latter is eaten up, with the canker. The beech is the natural timber tree of chalk hills: es- pecially, in bleak, exposed situations.
AGRIGULTURE.
THE MAIN OBJECT I had, in going over this Division of the GHalk Bille: was that of gaining some knowledge of its SHEEP,
——
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 64 toad, which have, of late years, grown into high Ne Te estimation; and are, still, 1 rapidly spre ead= Jams ing over the southe rn parts of the king-
N;| Oo© deep dom. I am, therefore, unprepared for a soil. DETAIL of its HUSBANDRY; and shall only f the Notice a few GENERAL HEADS. ved, It may here be remarked, that, before AILS the Woodlands of Sussex. were cleared, the Sy ia eee: oe Se i ihe range of hills, under notice, had probably
little, if any comm unication, with those of vater Surrey and Kent. Hence, in some part, the hice difference in their practices. The“practica : of the hills of Sussex as well as of their out- t, be::; Le skirts or margins, on either side of them, ¢| 5|<} hills resembles, in many par ticula s, that of the te Western Divisionof the Ghallati lie:; and the still more western fice icts of the Island. : FARMS. Ina cursory examination of eon| 4] | these hills, and judgi: is from the simi larity. yy mer:: pee oar ha ra ee } cil Cc SIZ LW 3 O LilJ y) shee 3 Wt i fa und great size of th e flocks o p, which é 1 ie everywhere meet the eye, they wo uld seem ch 1s
to be w holl y disided,; into lar ge farms. But a many of the flocks, here, as on the western hills, are paroch ial or ageregations of the flocks of small farmers, w hose| lands lie con- tiguous, or intermixed,
Ney‘ertheless, farms: of sufficient extent, and with a happy union of sheep walk, arable lands, and marshes, are to be found, in different parts of these hills* And some
that* The farms of AppLesHAM, and NortTH SToK Ey
eal nga 3
ee™ a a LS SS— ae Aw
368 ,/ J AGRICULTURE.
that are too extensive, for individuals to cultivate, with propriety. I have been well informed, that, on one estate, there are three farms, of a thousand pounds, ayear, each.
FARMERS. From what I have seen of the larger occupiers of these hills, they are not only opulent, but intelligent: husband- men of the highest class.:
The BEASTS OF DRAFT are in the greater part, I apprehend, Horses; but with a large portion of OXEN, of the Sussex breed.
IMPLEMENTS. On the middle cr main downs, the TURNWREST PLOW is solely in use. But, generally, I believe, of a lighter frame, than the ordinary one of Kent. On the Brighthelmston downs,| saw one, 1n barley seed time, worked with two horses: not abreast with reins; but driven, at length. On the east downs, I understand, the same plow is prevalent.
PLAN OF.HUSBANDRY. The great OBJECT, to which every view of the South= down farmer appears to be directed, 1s SHEEP. The hill lands may be said to be appropri- ated to them. A large portion, more than one third of these lands, is kept in a state of perennial sheep-walk: and a very con-
the property of the Earit or EGRemonrT, and occu- pied by Mr. Geri, and Mr. SAYER, are of this de- sirable cast; and there are few farms, in the kingdem, under better management.
Se
roe
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS._ 36g
siderable part of the arable crops,—as tur- neps, rape, tares, rye, and ley herbage,—are cultivated for their Maintenance; and are intermixed with corn crops, as the wants of the flock require: there being, I believe, no established, regular course of PRACTICE followed. What distinguishes this division of the Chalk Hills, from the western division, with respect to the sheep husbandry, is its want of water meadows, for their spring food: of course, a greater exertion is requisite to be made, on the arable lands, for their due Support, at that season. The grass of the brooklands comes too late, for this purpose; and is chiefly, I believe, applied to grazing.
SHEEP.-The NUMBER, maintained on-
these hills, is greater, in proportion to their extent, than that of the Western Division: not altogether on account of the compara- tive smallness of the breed: but a greater proportion, of the arable land, is at present, appropriated to sheep, here, than on the Hampshire and Wiltshire hills.
The osjects, of the sheep husbandry, on the Sussex Downs, at present, are those of rearing wedder lambs; for the hil] farmers of the Eastern Division of the Chalk Hills, and other parts of the South of England;— also ewe lambs, for spreading the breed, over the Western Division, and other parts; and aged ewes, for the same purpose. Alsoa
VOL, 11. Bb
————= a aD
Ps NES a
370 AGRICULTURE.
few store wedders; for folding, oneyear: they being generally sold, at eighteen months old; and chiefly, I believe, to the Kent and Surrey farmers. But, since the great demand for this breed has taken place, fewer wedder-teg flocks have been kept, than formerly: breed- ing flocks being now found more profitable.
The BREED varies. On the West Downs, a wild-looking, base-bred sort are seen: mostly white faced, and various as to horn; having the same mongrel appearance, as the mountain sheep of the WesT oF ENGLAND: and they are, probably, the unreclaimed native stock of these hills; retaining their miscellaneous state, for want of selection; and their comparatively small size, with respect to the Wiltshire sheep, for want of watered meadows: this breed commencing eastward of the valley of Lavant, with which the watered meadows, of the western hills, end:—a strongly corroborating evi- dence, that the present size of the Wiltshire breed has been obtained, by that forcing spring food.*
Some apology, for the inferiority of the West Down breed, may also be found, in the downs themselves; which are of an infe- rior quality, and remain, more, in the un- reclaimed forest state, than any other passage of the western, or the southern Chalk Hills.
Eastward of the valley of Arundel, and to
* See page 347.
: SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 34
wih| the easternmost extremity of this Division, a We breed of sheep are found, of a description, stint very different from:those of the West Downs or this; til‘idely, from tl f the etep au stl more Wi ao rom those o 6 F Western Division,—in stature, frame, coror; iii and wool: though, by no means, so select; in al id uniform, in these respects, as the Wilt-: ») snire breed.:| This distinct breed of sheep is well known, Norns In many parts of the South and’ West of 148 the England, by the name of the South Down LAND:| breed., laimed| The individuals, as has heen intimated, > their| differ somewhat, in their frame and wool; ction; and more in their countenances. What may with| be considered, as the true Souru Down ant of SHEEP, I conceive to be of the following eneing description. The carcass thick; yet some- » With| what loose; owing toa deficiency, behind yestern the shoulders. The legs of a middle length, if evi- and the stature, altogether, of the middle Itshire height;(between the small heath sheep, orcing that are found in various parts of the Island, and the Wiltshire breed). The bone of the of the legs rather large; yet their flesh is of a good inthe quality. The head and neck thick, and short. 1 inle- The fleece remarkably close, and fine; and heune long, considering its fineness: particularly sage full, on the neck; giving the head a muffled Hills. appearance. The face and legs black, or ndto dark grey. The head invariably poled, or hornless. Bb e
WV
AGRICULTURE.
a| I
But, in looking over the flocks of these Downs, great deviations, from this standard, are observable; particularly, in a thinness of carcass, an openness ot fleece, and in the color of the legs and face. On exa- mining, with some attention, the flocks on what may be called the Brighthelmston compartment of the South Downs, beside remarking on the unevenness of their form, I took the following notice of their color: —about half the ewes, with white or slight- ly colored, one fourth, with mottled, and one fourth, with black, legs and faces. Some of the Jambs, with mottled carcasses. And, on examining two separate, and large flocks, on the adjoining compartment, included be- tween the vallies of Shoreham and Arundel, I observed a similar disparity, and want of evenness, in frame, and color.
Of the origin of the Southdown breed, or how long it has been confined to the nar- row limits, within which, until lately, it has been kept, I have never heard the least in- timation. On my first view of it, in 1791, it appeared to me a matter of surprise, that a breed, so very different, in many essential properties, as well as popular marks and distinctions, from every other, I had, then, more particularly examined, should have found their way into, and retained exclusive possession of, this small tract of country. But having, since, seen the breeds of the West
tee=
—? wes UCU CHOU eOULSMALUCOD]ES' CC DD
—
os
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 273
“thes ie of England, and bestowed much thought inness on the different varieties, that appear to have nd in sprung, from the native, or ancient breed of eval the western mountains, I see nothing in the ison South Down sheep, to show, that they are nian not, merely, a variety of this original stock, a, Nor can I discern any other characteristic, Rtn in the poled, grey-faced sheep of the South rt Hams of Devonshire, and the poled, grey- slight. faced sheep of the South Downs of Sussex, aa than what soil, or rather food, and clima- Sane 4 ture, may have given. There appears to me Ani| nothing, either in the size of the carcass, or F-| the length of the wool, which these may not bree have effected. And I have no doubt of a ed be-| breed of sheep, resembling that of the South undel, Downs, being, even yet, to be raised from vant"| individuals which might be chosen, from | the unreclaimed flocks of Devonshire and ed, 0 Cornwall., he Mat The present quality of the wool of the jj tt has Southdown breed, may either have arisen east In” from the fineness of the Southdown pastu- 11791, rage; or from the original selection, through se, tha which the variety was propagated; or from esse its having, since, been the fashion of the dis- rks aud trict, to breed it. Even to this day, wool (, then, and bone are the two points aimed at, by Id have Southdown farmers, even of the higher cclusive| class.* ¢ ountty:* 1797. In passing and repassing DARTMOOR, re West_ this summer, since the above remarks were written, I
i. AGRICULTURE.
Whatever attention may, heretofore, have been bestowed on this breed, it was pretty evident, at the time I first examined it, on its native hills, that little attention had, for some length of time been paid to it: even the best flocks, Ithen saw, were veryuneven; and, evidently, in a state of neglect.
About, and since, that time, some consi- derable attention has been paid to it; espe- cially on the East Downs. But with what success, I am not able to speak, with suffi- cient knowledge of the subject: not having had a favorable opportunity of examining the new variety, on its native ground. And as there appears to be doubts, as to the na- ture of the improvement, yet effected, I forbear to risk any remarks of my own, on. this part of the subject.
All I can say, from my. own knowledge, of the general subject is, that, in the breed at large, there is very great improvement to be made; and that he who unites, in the best manner, the four essential qualities of HILL SHEEP; namely, fine close wool, well- flavored mutton, an inclination to fat early, and a sufficient strength of frame and con-
paid particular attention to the sheep that fell within my view; and distinguished several individuals, which so much resembled, in frame and color, the Southdown sheep of the above description, that they might well have deceived the eye, even of a Southdown farmer.
. t Particularly, I believe, by Mr. ELtmAn, of Glynde, near Lewes.
or Fs co o>. wy
rh——
Eg oh RT nee Hn gE LS rent em Lary| Pree
—_—_ 7 or sF-—|— ay Th a
® have pretty it, on ad, lor even eves
cOnsi- epe- h what N suff. having mining And| he na- ted,| Nn, on
vledge, breed vement in the ities of| Welk| t early, nd col thin my which so uthdown
ht well*
net.
Glynde,
4 see a te a
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 375
stitution, to stand the fold, will, in my Opi- nion, be the best friend te his country.
T cannot refrain from noticing, here, with some concern, the evident jealousies, and a degree of contention, which exist, between the SourHpown, and the Romnrey Marsu breeders; as if each were contending for the whole country! whereas, these two breeds, in their present states, are calculated for two opposite descriptions of soils and situations. The South Downs, for upland arable districts, to grow fine wool, and fill the fold, in situations which require it. The Romney Marsh, for rich low lands, to pro- duce long wool, and to throw into the mar-
ket the greatest quantity of mutton, with
the least bone and other offal, without re- gard to activity or strength of frame. And it is to be feared, that, by endeavoring to accommodate their flocks, to both these de- scriptions of country, they will render them improper for either.
The present breed of the South Downs is admirably adapted to every department of Chalk Hills, and Limestone Heights, in the kingdom; and, particularly, to those that are destitute of watered meadows: they
having been long moulded to that descrip-
tion of country: and the first step towards their improvement is, evidently, that of making them evenly good with the best. of the established breed: without refining too
376 AGRICULTURE.
much, or copying, implicitly, the principles of improvement, that have been applied, with happy effect, in meliorating a breed, which is suited to a different purpose;—excepting so far as relates to filling up the deficiency of the fore quarter.
The DEscRIpTIoN of FLocxs has been in- timated, as being that of breeding ewes; with a few small wedder flocks, for folding; but with very few, if.any, fatiing flocks; except in the brooklands, or marshes.
EWE FLocks. The usual size is five hun- dred. For although the larger farmers keep a thousand, fifteen hundred, or a greater number of breeding ewes, they seldom, I believe, place more than five hundred in one flock, or under the care of one shep- herd. And the town flocks I found divided, in the same way.
The rams, which I saw, were not well chosen: and I was informed, by an intelli- gent shepherd, on the Brighton quarter of the Downs, that little cost, or even atten- tion, is bestowed on them. The uneven- ness of the flocks is, therefore, a necessary consequence of neglect.*
The time of admitting the rams would seem to vary, with situation, or climature: for, in 1791, there was nearly a fortnight
* When I went over the District, in April, the rams were among the ewes and lambs, in heads, as male deer are seen, 1n parks, at the same season.
* paige ee
ae Oe. Ree
ciples With which pting lency
n In- wes; ing 5
locks
hun- Keep eater m,| d in hep- ‘ded,
well telli- er of tten- -Vell- ssa
vould ture: ight
rams
» deer
ie een
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 247
difference, between the eastern banks of the Arun, and the bleaker heights of the Brighthelmston quarter, in
The time of lambing. Ladyday is spoken of, as the usual time of commencing. But,
on the tenth of April, there were lambs, on
the western quarter of the South Downs, three weeks or a month old. The majority of the lambs are dropped, in the early part of April; continuing to fall, until the latter end, or the close of that month. On the 27th April, many of the ewes still retained their lambs.
The ewes of this breed mostly bring single lambs: but not unfrequently twins.
The foods of ewes and lambs, in this meadowless District, are various: as turneps, rape, raygrass, and perhaps rank wheat. The ewes, when I saw them, were mostly low in condition; but the lambs, in general looked well: an evidence of the South Down ewes being good nurses; thou oh not a proof: for ewes, in general, when fed chiefly on turneps, will bring their lambs forward, while they are, themselves, sinking in condition.
Folding. Ewes and lambs are seldom folded, until the lambs have gathered some strength; as at ten days or a fortnight old; and, then, on clean sward, or ley grounds; shepherds objecting to folding them on
ay
378 AGRICULTURE.
fallows, or broken ground, until after shear- ing time; unless the weather be very dry. A superior manager keeps two folds stand- ing: one on grass, the other on fallow; and drives his flock, to one or the other, as rain or dry weather directs: an accuracy of management, which others might copy; the expence of an extra number of hurdles being its only inconveniency;- while the advantage, in some seasons, may be great. On the north side of the West Downs, I met with a striking instance of the stoutness of the South Down, or“ blackfaced” sheep, in regard to the fold. In this, and other instances, in that quarter, they are pas- tured, from the first shoot of spring, until autumn, upon the higher downs, and folded, sometimes every night, on the maam soil, at the foot of the northern steep!* up which they have to climb, in the morning, and perhaps a mile to travel, on the top of the hill, before they reach their pasture. I know no breed of sheep, of a superior uality, except the South Down, or the Norfolk, which is capable of enduring such hardships." Nor, perhaps, could even the South Down breed support it; unless under a principle of management, which is com- mon to this division of the Chalk Hills, and
* See District OF PETWORTH, in page 167.
shears y dry, tand- low: I’, as y of PY rdles the eat, ins,| tess leep, \ther pas- tntil \ded, soll, vhich and * the
er lor - the such 1 the inder lt
and
| |
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 379
marks it strongly, as a distinguishing cha- racter, from the practice of the other Di- visions.
Instead of feeding them, in the fold, as is done, on the Wiltshire Hills(see page 349.) they are* suppered up with somethin good,” before they go to fold. Thus, in the instance noticed, and at the time I observed it, the middle of June, they had their fill of clover, trefoil, tares,&c. below hill, in the evening, before they went into the fold: in which they have leisure to chew the cud; and to digest their aliment, during the hours of rest. And, in the morning, their stomachs being emptied, they are not only able, but eager, to climb the hill, to their daily pas- ture.
On the Middle Downs, their supper food, I was informed, during a principal part of the year, is RAPE; which is sown, from time to time, for this purpose: a practice, peculiar, I believe, to this division of the Chalk Hills of the Southern Counties.
In the SHEPHERDING of the South Down tlocks, the following are the few particu- lars, which occurred to me. ~ Between the lambing, and the commence- ment of the fold, the ewes are“ tailed,” or trimmed, behind: an operation, which ought not, in any district, to’be neglected. (See YORKSHIRE, On this particular). And during this interval, namely, at ten days to
380 AGRICULTURE.
a fortnight old, the male lambs, that are not intended to be kept tor breeding, are cas- trated.
The shepherd’s dog, of the South Downs, is stout, active, and intelhgent: guarding his numerous flock, from the unfenced corn lands which surround them, with great cau- tion, and severe labor; especially, where the surface is flinty. Being on his legs, the day long, his feet get battered, and full of corns, so as to render his services of short duration: rarely standing full work, more than three years.
The shepherd's crook is, here, in common use; and is found in its best form.
The time of weaning the LAMBs is about the middle of July.
Their TREATMENT varies. The wedder lambs, and such of the ewe lambs, as are in- tended for sale, at the ensuing Michaelmas, are put upon early sown rape, or other. nu- tritious food, to fill them out, for market.
The ewe lambs, intended for breeding, are allowed less forcing fare; being gene- rally kept from the ram, the first autumn; and are usually confined, to the higher Downs, until they are eighteen months old; when they are united with the ewe flock.
IMPROVEMENTS. The SoutnH Downs, as well as the Sea Coast of Sussex, do the agriculture of the county much credit. There are not many districts
ql
EEE—= Sistas
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS, 381
in the kingdom, in which there are fewer great and obvious improvements to be made, than in these two.:
In: TILLAGE, lit ds true, something is to be done. In the eastern parts of the main Downs, f saw much foul underworked land: the biennial thistles, so conspicuously dis- graceful to the Dorsetshire hills, being pre- dominant. But these were probably the lands of small village farmers: for the larger farms, I went over, were in a high state of cultivation.
The want of saINFOIN, even on the larger
_farms, is, to me, the least reconcileable part
of the South Down husbandry. Thealmost only piece, I particularly observed, was on the higher thinner lands; yet the crop was good; the plants even and full of vigor.
Perhaps, the last generation cropped the lower better lands, and the present are creep- ing higher up the hills. Or perhaps, sain- foin, which will not bear to be pastured, in summer, without great injury, is less con- venient, in the SHEEP HUSBANDRY, than the clovers, raygrass, and trefoil; and it cer- tainly is most eligible, when cATTLE are the pasturing stock: and this may, in some Measure, account for its infrequency, on the Wiltshire hills, the calcareous lands of the Isle of Wight, and the South Downs.
But, surely, a certain portion, for hay, would be valuable. And if it were sown
eo
SS ene
or
————
weal
382| AGRICULTURE.
with cLovER, even on lands that may have been formerly cropped, it could scarcely fail, from the nature of its growth, to be found profitable. See vol. I. page 156.
In regard to WATER MEADows, the South Down farmers ought not to be re- proached, for a want of them: because na- ture has not furnished either proper land, or suitable water, to make them with. This single ridge of hills has no lengthened val- lies, with broad waterformed bases, as those of the Western Division; nor, if they had, are they supplied with copious streams of cal- careous waters, to irrigate them: excepting the valley of Lavant; and that is watered.
The dissecting vallies, that have been mentioned, can scarcely be said to belong to the Chalk Hills. The waters, which pass through them, are chiefly collected, from clayey and sandy surfaces; some of them the astringent ouzings of heathy soils, or peat bogs: and the brooklands or marshes, themselves, have doubtless been. formed with materials, washed from these surfaces; with, perhaps, a valuable mixture of marine silt, or sea mud.
It aptly occurs, however, that the waters of the valley.of Amesbury, are mostly col- lected, in the vale of Pewsey, a sandy dis- trict. But the vale of Pewsey is beset with chalk, on almost every side; and its own base is probably calcareous. The principal
ohn
SS eee ee 4
na- ind, Chis Val- hose had, cal- ting red, een r to pass rom hem Or hes, med OCS| rine
ater cole dis ith wn pal
SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 383
part of the waters that pass down:the val- ley of Amesbury, it is more than probable, has filtered. throug) chalk: whereas those which escape, through the vallies of Sussex, have most of thei passed through less fer= tilizing strata.
The great body of the water, absorb- ed by the Chalk Hills of Sussex, is doubtless conveyed, through subterranean. passages, to the sea; to which these hills have been said to dip. Nevertheless, some part of it, as has been mentioned, in the DisTRicT oF PETWORTH, Is discharged at the feet of the northern cliffs, and passes into the Arun: and the whole line of cliffs, no doubt, have a similar discharge.
Hence, the waters of these rivers are not wholly destitute of the calcareous principle; and it certainly belongs to those, who have large properties, in the marsh lands through which they pass, to ascertain their quality; and to try, by forming them into steep- sided beds, and throwing the water on, in the Wiltshire manner, whether they are, or are not, proper subjects of improvement.
Lastly, with respect to the ROUGH DOWN LANDS, which cover a part of the summits of the Sussex, as of other, chalk hills, bear- ing furze, heath, and the coarser grasses,— as well as the finer sHEEP Downs, of the lower stages,—it appears to be a matter of doubt, whether they are, zn general, capable
384 AGRICULTURE.
of much improvement. It was an obser- vation of one of the shrewdest farmers, on these hills;—and may be generally un- derstood,—that the old down lands bear : drought, much better, than new ley grounds: a good reason for letting them remain, and endeavoring to improve them, in their pre- sent state. Nevertheless, some of the deeper lands may be best adapted to arable crops.
Ober. rmets, y n= bear unds: 1, and ‘pre- eper ‘Ops,
THE
EASTERN DIVISION
OF THE
CHALK HILLS.
THE SITUATION of this extensive range of heights may be gathered, from what has been conveyed, in defining the districts which lie adjacent; the line of hills, under view, stretching through the central parts of Surrey and Kent.|
The EXTENT, from west to east, is near a hundred miles: reaching from the heaths of Surrey, to the South Foreland, between Deal and Dover. The width is irregular: but, considering the length, the variations are small. It is, inno part, I ap- prehend,(except near the eastern extremity) more than six miles(even including the faces of the southern cliffs, and the chalky loams that form its northern outskirts), nor less than four. Five miles may be considered as the full average width: and its superficies
VOL. II. ec
= me AE a ek Lett TSE RCW No” Scat Pimp
386 DISTRICT.
may be estimated, with sufficient accuracy for the purpose here intended, at five hun- dred square miles.
In ELEVATION, the hills of Surrey and Kent resemble other chalk hills. Their height, from end toend, is similar; though not uniformly the same. The eastern ex~ tremity is high land; as appears in the cliffs of Dover. The hills of west Kent, however, are probably of much greater ele- vation. From the top of Maamscot hill, to Sevenoaks, the descent is great; and, from thence to Tunbridge, the fall is not mu h less: beside the descent from‘Tun- bridge to the Nore.*
SURFACE. The eastern, as the south- ern Division, is broken into compartments, by rivered vallies. Yirst, by the Wey and its valley, at Guilford: next, by the val- ley of the Mole, between Dorking, and Leatherhead: again, by that of the Darnt, at Farningham(between Sevenoaks and Dartford): next, by that of the Medway,
*« KnocKHOLT BEEcHes,” which grow on this part of the Kentish hills, are an evidence of its supe- rior elevation. For, although they stand in a deep chalk pit, showing only their tops above the surface of the hill, they are seen at an extraordinary distance, on every side. A telegraph erected near them, might commu- nicate with a great part of Kent and Surrey; and with parts of Sussex, Essex, Middlesex, Hertfordshire, and, perhaps, with the hills of Buckinghamshire and Ox-
fordshire.
dracy, hun
urrey Their ough | X= | the Kent, r ele t hill, and, 1S not Tun-
yuth- \enits, y and - ali Darnt, s and dway,
+ on this ts supe: ep chalk a of tie mn every ‘ommu- id with ip and,
d Ox-
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 387
between Maidstone and Rochester; and lastly, by that of the Stower, between Ash- ford and Canterbury..
“These several compartments vary, some- what, in surface. The prevailing cast is that ofa single ridge; witha steep face, to the south; the north side shelving, gently, tawards the Thames; and pretty uniformly, throughout.
The southern cliffs are less regular: in some parts, they are mere precipices. In others they are covered with soil, or break into culturable stages. In the most eastern compartment, the chalk unites, in a loose irregular manner, with a line of ragstone heights; and, in the more western, with sand hills.
But of the principal compartment of Sur- rey, eastward of the valley of the Mole, the general surface is flatter, and is broken into ridges and vallies; which afford shelter, and render the country habitable.
The opportunities, which I have had, of obtaining INFORMATION, respecting this Division of the Chalk Hills, are nume- rous. My residence, in Surrey,* was on the border of the principal compartment, last mentioned: a quarter which is the most familiar to me. The westernmost point, too, I have viewed, on every side. The part, between the Wey and the Mole, I am less
* See Minures of AGRICULTURE, in that county. a Cece
388 DISTRICT.
acquainted with: though there is scarcely any part of the hills of Surrey, or of west Kent, which I have not formerly been led over, by diversion, or in travelling.
My knowledge of the west Kent hills, however, has lately been renewed, in a less incidental manner. In October last, I crossed them(for the intended purpose of information) between Bromley and Se- venoaks; and, in the same month, between Wrotham and Farningham.
The middle Kent hills I examined, with some attention, in repeated excursions, from Maidstone; and have traced the outlines, on both sides, of the whole compartment, between the Medway and the Stower.
The more eastern parts, between the Stower and the sea, I have likewise viewed, in different points; during my excursion, in east Kent, in 1795. First, in examining the northern skirts, in the Barham quarter: next in crossing over the higher parts, be- tween Deal and Dover, and between Dover and Hithe; and, finally, between Hithe and Canterbury: thus gaining a general and comprehensive idea of the entire range; from end to end.
The CLIMATURE of these hills varies, with the elevation and turn of surface. In 1795, the harvest, on the exposed heights, between Deal and Hithe, was near a fort- night behind that of the Isle of Thanet: and the high single ridge, of the central
ately EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 389
Eig parts of Kent, is later than the more de- en led pressed, broken, and better sheltered lands of Surrey; the warmer parts of which are hill something, but not much, behind the vale In a Jands that border them: last, The surface WATERS, collected by "pose these hills, are few. The rivers, which dis- 1 Se- sect them, are chiefly drawn from the ex- ween tensive vale lands, to the south of them. The only constant stream, I believe, which with| is collected from the hills, is that which rises , from in the easternmost compartment(chiefly lines, perhaps in the vallies of the ragstone ment, heights) and winds down the charming val- | ley of Bishop’s Bourn; joining the Stower, the| below Canterbury. ewel, But, in different parts of them, periodical sion, springs, or“ BOURNS,” rise at particular ining seasons. That which issues from the deeper Ae: vallies of the hills of Surrey, and enters the 5 he- head of the river Wandle, at Croydon, some-
Nes times takes the character of a brook, of con- Hithe siderable size; more particularly, when the preceding season has been rainy.
eneral ee ae Beside the periodical springs, which rise
rag within the areas of the hills, there are con-
| tinual discharges, at their outskirts, on either a side. Those, at the feet of the southern ; 4 steeps, are in general small; emitting little 5 8| more, perhaps, than the rain waters, which oe| the steeps themselves absorb: while those !
| on the opposite side are copious; as being
390 DisTRICT:.
fed, probably, by the principal absorption of the hills; whose base and retaining strata, as well as their surfaces, doubtless, incline the same way. Westward of Croydon, par- ticularly at Carshalton, a river of water is continually rising.
Remark.‘The natural history of chalk hills, particularly what relates to the waters they absorb, and discharge, whether perio- dically or continually, is a fit subject for philosophical inquiry. One law appears to govern the whole: and this, perhaps, would not be found difficult to explain. It is not merely a subject of curiosity, or abstract science; but is connected with agriculture. The waters of chalk hills are of a singularly fertilizing nature; and the manner in which they are absorbed, filtrated, impregnated with the calcareous principle, collected, and discharged, cannot be deemed uninteresting to the student in rural knowledge. If, by any discovery of science, they can be brought more under command, or rendered more ge- nerally applicable, than they are at present, the research may become highly beneficial.
It may be observed, here, that, in dif- ferent parts of these hills, there are wells of three hundred feet in depth, and. passing through onecontinuous mass of chalk. Butno one, that hascome to my knowledge,exceeds that depth; even though sunk from the sur- face of the higher swells. This isan evidence,
g |
a
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 391 run| of some authority, that the mass or stratum trata, of chalk, of which these hills are formed, does neline not much exceed that depth: an evidence Par| that is corroborated, by the thickness or ter is height of chalk, which shows itself, in the
. faces of different cliffs; so far, at least, as halk the eye can judge. By the assistance of in- aters struments, the exact thickness of chalk, of erio- different hills, in this Island, might be ascer- t for| tained., ars to Judging from the remarkable uniformity vould in their several heights, as they appear in Snot the face of the country, it is probable, they tract have had the same origin,—are fragments of ure,| the same stratum, or extended mass, of cal- arly| careous matter; which, there is much rea- hich son to believe, is of submarine origin,—is nated composed of animal substances, deposited, | and or otherwise accumulated, at the base of sting some great ocean,—an Atlantic of a former f, by world, or past arrangement of the earth’s uoht surface. Such, at least, appears to have se been the opinion of the GREAT NATURALIST ent(Linneus): and extravagant as the idea Feil seems. when it first strikes the mind, it be= \ dif comes more and more reconcileable to rea- ae son, the more it is examined.| sig| The SOILS of the range of hills, now ‘i| under view, differ much, in the aggregate, ENO aa Ae.
“ from those of the other Divisions. The tops
ects::=‘. of the higher swells, instead of having a thin
a chalky loam, or a thinner coat of black ve-
Ne,
392 DISTRICT.
getable mold, are generally covered with a tenacious clayey loam, of a dark brown color, and extraordinary strength; and, in some places, of great depth; as three or four feet: being generally mixed with flints; especially, perhaps, near the surface; which, after harrowing, will in some instances, ap- pear covered with them.
This may be considered as the prevailing soil of the upper parts of the hills; espe- cially, where the surface is flat: while, on
sloping surfaces, the soil is generally a thin,
pale-colored, chalky loam; and, on the lower skirts of the hills, a deeper loam, of a somewhat similar nature, prevails. Be~ tween Croydon and Epsom, there are some thousand acres of this desireable soil;— deep, rich, friable, calcareous loam.
On the contrary, the opposite cliffs are, in many parts, destitute of soil; except where the face of the hill has slid down, and carried with it the soil of the summit; lodging it, on stages, or with steeply slop- ing surfaces, on which the ruRNWREST PLOW gains an instable footing: and for these, possibly, it was invented.*
* The TURNWREST PLOW is used on surfaces so extremely steep, that, on being overturned! the plow, horses, and perhaps the plowman, have been known to roll down, from the top to the bottom of the hill.
But, surely, sites of such a degree of steepness are
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 393
Pe)
The SUBSOILS likewise vary. On the
upper parts of the hills, a red or chocolate- colored earth, which is of a clayey nature, and which dries to a sort of rubble, is com- monly seen incumbent on the chalk; form- ing the base of the cultivated mold. In other places, a chalky rubble intervenes, between the soil and the chalk rock; which however, in other instances, rises to the cul- tivated soil; even where this is of inferior thickness. » ROADS. The more public roads are in general good. Materials of the first quality (flints and chalk) being everywhere in plenty. But the village roads, since I first knew these hills, were mere wagon tracks, through woods, narrow lanes, and hollow ways; with few places, in which even two carts could pass each other: and this was formerly the case, in many parts of the Island. a9
Remarks. Hence, the probable origin of ‘* BELL TEAMS, A constant alarm was necessary, to apprize the respective drivers of each other’s approach: and no one was less likely to be neglected, than that which was given by the mere motion of the team. But to continue to load horses with bells, on wide open roads, and in open daylight, fitter subjects for PLANTING, than for the plow. The
clays are well adapted to the oak, the chalky loams to the beech.
304 DISTRICT.
is perfectly ridiculous; and, on public roads, may well be deemed a nuisance.
TOWNSHIPS. Where the hill lands form a single ridge, as in many parts of Kent, they are chiefly divided, between the lines of parishes, which run on either side of them. But, in the more habitable parts, as in the Banstead quarter of Surrey, the hills, or chalk lands, are themselves laid out into townships: a mode of distribution which reaches into the western parts of the Kent hills. Also, towards the eastern extremity, where the chalk lands are broad, and the surface somewhat broken, a similar distri- bution prevails.
STATE OF INCLOSURE. In this re- spect, the eastern differs, much, from the other Divisions. The greater part of the hills, under view, are INcLosED. There is nevertheless, much oPpEN pOwn: especi- ally on the sides, and lower parts of the hills; where the soil is of a loamy, chalky nature; what may be properly called the true chalk-down soil: and this, it may be said, is everywhere kept in an open state! while the parts, which are covered with strong clayey soil, are chiefly inclosed:— not only on these hills, but in the north of Hampshire, in the Western Division.
Remark. How is this prevailing dis- tinction, with respect to the present state of inclosure, on soils of different descriptions,
ic roads,
I! lands arts of "el the er side parts, ‘y, the ald out Which e Kent emity, id i listri- S re= n the of the ere 13 specs f the halky d the ay be state! | with el= wth of
‘ise te of 1005,
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 395
to be accounted for? Sheep are kept, in- discriminately, on both: and the plow is equally employed on each. See the Isie of THaneT,—the HiLzs of WILTSHIRE,&c.
In PRESENT PRODUCTIONS, this Division differs from the other two, chiefly, in its growing a much greater proportion of woop. A considerable share of the clayey lands, high-lying as they are, and resting on chalk, an absorbent base, are too wet, cold, and ungenial, for arable crops! being chiefly in a state of wood. On the Boxley and Detling hills, in the central part of Kent, there are tracts of woodland of very great extent: such as the Wilds of Kent and Sus- sex cannot equal. And even on the more habitable parts of West Kent and Surrey, woodlands prevail.
Nevertheless, much of the strong land, everywhere, jis kept under ARABLE CROPS: as are most of the chalky lands: with, how- ever, a small portion of perennial sHEEP WALK. But this, I believe, is on the de- ciine.
In the vallies, and about farm houses and villages, on the strong cool soils, there are OLD GRASS LANDS; but not in any great proportion. And, in Kent, Hops are more or less grown, on the hill lands.
On a high broad summit of the Surrey hills, there is a tract of HEATHLAND; greater
396 DISTRICT.
in extent, perhaps, than that of all the chalk hills of the kingdom united.
The APPEARANCE of a country, di- versified in surface, and amply wooded, as are the hills under view, cannot fail to in- terest: especially, where the vallies are cleared, and the hills remain capped with woods, which bend over their brows, and fall with irregular outlines down the sides of the vallies: passages of beautiful scenery, which not unfrequently meet the eye, in crossing the more secluded parts of the hills of Surrey.
The pisTANT views, which are com- manded from this range of hills, are various, and extensive. Those from the Boxley and Detling hills, in Kent, have been noticed. The hills of Surrey afford, among many others, one remarkable point of view;—San- derstead hill, near Croydon: from whence is commanded the upper and principal part of the wide Vale of London; closing with the well featured grounds of Windsor; whose castle rises, boldly, and distinctly, to the eye,—though placed at near thirty miles distance.
a
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 997 he chik try, di. Buk= Ha ESTATES. to in-| €S are had (igh| ON THIS HEAD, I have had few op- oe portunities of collecting information.— io PROPERTY is much divided; especially s-in Kent; where the tenure of gavelkind benery, eager aerere:§ hi‘| prevails: while, in Surrey, the YEOMANRY; hill I believe, are few; or nearly extinct. a‘In the FARM BUILDINGS of these | hills, there is little that differences them, COM) f from those of the vale districts, on either Hs, side of them.(See District or Marp- j and STONE,&c.) They are, still, chiefly con- tied, structed of woop: the covering materials many being THATCH, OY PLAIN TILES. Sal On the hills of Surrey, I have observed an hence ingenious method of LAYING PLAIN TILES, [part so as to give vent to the steam of a brew- with| house. Instead of placing them close, in whose the usual manner, a space of two inches was o the left between every two tiles: thus making miles the covering sufficiently open, to let out
the steam; yet close enough,(when the pitch is not too flat, nor the guage too long) to shoot off rain water.
There, too, I have seen a species of HIP TILES, in an eligible form: namely, a tri- angle, with the three corners cut off, and
398 ESTATES.
the lower end, or base, somewhat rounding. The length about a foot, and the width, at the base, the same. The whole is hollow, as a ridge tile: the depth of the hollow, at the base, being three inches: with a nail hole, near the upper point.
DRINKING POOLS are formed, on these hills, with cHaALK and LIME; and in some instances, are fed artificially, as in YorkKsuire. But not in the regular and systematic manner, which is there praticed. No instance of practice fell under my ob- servation. But the outlines of the method which is followed, on the hills of Surrey; I understand, from good information, are these.|
The bason being formed, agreeably to the situation, and the intention, it is bot- tomed, or lined, with a coat of chalk, six or eight inches thick. This being beaten with rammers, so as to give it a degree of firm- ness, and smoothness, a grout, or batter, of pounded chalk, and lime hot from the kiln, is prepared, and spread regularly over the surface of the chalk; covering it, perhaps, half an inch thick. When the first coat of cement is suficiently dry, another(and per- haps another) is added. Thus closing the pores of the chalk, and glazing the bottom of the bason; so as to make it perfectly tight; and, at the same time, effectually preventing the mischiefs of earth worms.
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 399
For a sheep pond, railed round, to pre- vent cattle and horses from stepping into it, {as is frequently seen) this slight covering may be sufficient.
FIELD FENCES. The oLp HEDGEs, throughout this Division of the Chalk Hills, I believe,(as well as in the north parts of Hampshire) partake of the Danmonian mound fence(see West oF ENGLAND); appearing as Devonshire hedges, in ruins: the mounds being in general, low, wide, and irregular.:
Remark. These mounds, perhaps, were eriginally, no more than accumulations of soil, te encourage the growth of hedge- woods, on the thinsoiled lands; without any view of increasing the fence; and they may, since, have been increased, by flints, and the roots of weeds, gathered off the lands. This being as it may, the shrubwood, raised on these mounds, not only answered the pur- pose of fences; but, at: the same time, af- forded a supply of materials for hurdles, dead hedges, and fuel, on every farm. The practice, whatever may have been its origin, was singularly well adapted to these bleak, unsheltered heights.
AT present, many of these old hedges are wearing out; owing, perhaps, to negligent management: many of them having, doubt- less, been injured, or destroyed, by the white
400 ES TAF BS.
climber, travellersjoy, or virginsbower /cle-
matis vitalba), which is suffered to overtop the hedgewoods, and form arbors on their heads! Yet this, being a perennial plant, might be checked, at a trifling expence, compared with the mischiefs it is capable of doing, in a state of neglect—in this its na- tural situation and soil.
MopDERN HEDGES are of hawthorn, plant- ed in single-rows, in the usual manner; and, on the deeper soils, they thrive with luxuriance; notwithstanding the extraor- dinary treatment they are subjected to. When a hedge of this kind is cut, it is usually felled to the ground, and a full- bottomed dead-hedge set upon the stubs! as if to prevent it, effectually, from rising again.
Remarks. This, under ordinary cir- cumstances, might be improper: but, in a country where sheepare the pasturing stock, and where they have no other shrubs, than those of the hedges, to satisfy their natural cravings, it appears to be singularly eligible, if judiciously executed: for a sufficiency of shoots are found to make their way, up- ward, through the spray of the dead hedge- wood; which defends them from the bite of sheep, without the expence of a double line of fencing.
Some skill, no doubt, is requisite, to form a dead hedge of this intention. Forming
= et Pane ocak
Ver(len OVertop ON ther | plant, xpenice, able of its na-
plant annner+ Je with xtraor= ted to, It is 1 full- tabs! rising
Yy cit it, Ina stock, , than natural ligible ency of AY, Up hedge- he bit doulle
pform ming
FLEE ES ee ate
ST>
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 4ot
the base, with long sprayey materials, so as to reach across, or between the stubs, and hang over the ditch(in this case mostly shallow) yet thin, or Open enough, to suffer the shoots to rise freely through them, would seem to be the proper outline of pFactice.
This practice, I recollect, struck me, on my first observing it, as being most absurd, and ridiculous: yet, on due examination, it is found to be one of those simple expedi- ents, which necessity, in the infancy of arts, and long experience, in their riper years, have happily struck out.
WOODLANDS.
THE SPECIES of woodland, which pre- vails on these hills, is COPPICE, OF UNDER-= Woop, generally having a few oaK TIMBER TREES Scattered among it; agreeably to the practice of the southern and western coun- ties; and, more or less, of the midland pro- vinces; constituting what is emphatically
~
called a wood, in distinction to grove, and coppice. And, beside extensive woods of the above description, the hills of Surrey, more par- VOL. II. Dd
402 WOODLANDS.
ticularly, are strowed with small plots of coppice; provincially“ syaws 3 which, at once, give shelter to stock, and afford a supply of hurdle and hedge materials: con- veniences, which every chalk-hill district might profit by; yet which no other, than this under view, sufficiently possesses. See IsLE oF THANET, and the WILTSHIREHILLS, in these Volumes; also Corswoip HIL.Ls of GLOCESTERSHIRE; and the Wo Lps of Y ORKSHIRE.
The PRODUCTS, or wares, of the larger woods, are made to vary with their situations. In Kent, Hop PoLEs are the prime object: and the AGE OF FELLING, there, is twelve to eighteen years. In Sur- rey, STAKES, EDDERS, and other FENCING MATERIALS, HURDLES, Hoops, and FAGOT woop, are in demand; and, there, the AGE OF FELLING is seven to ten years: a plan of management, this, which extends, I believe, fifteen or twenty miles, on every side of the metropolis; and has probably been handed down, from the time when wood was its chief article of fuel.
is la
a eae ae, ee aad — nox a
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 403
Plots of
ich, a
ford 4
S: con. AGRICULTURE. district
r, than
. See IN a tract of country, an hundred miles
HILLs, in length, it is scarcely possible, that a uni-
) Hints formity of practice, even su pposing the prac-
OLDS of tice of the whole to have had the same origin,
should be found, after the series of centuries
of the which these hills, probably, have been in a th their_ State of cultivation. Yet the eye, in a cur- are the sory view of them, perceives little variety LLING, of management: except towards the eastern In Sure extremity; where the Thanet, or East- med| Kent practice extends, More or less, over makin the hills: a practice which is evidently ofa are, the different growth, if not of a different root, ears: from the present practice of the West-Kent ao and Surrey hills.
extends,
; FARMS.| The major part, of the lands ey of these hills, is laid out into farms of the realy most desireable sizer: namely, from one to two cr three hundred pounds, a year.
In a country, where the sheepfold is the farmer's dependence, for his arable crops, and where parochial flocks are not formed, a small farm is less eligible, than one which is able to maintain a flock, large enough to employ the attention of a regular shep- herd.
fe whe
Dde
RP SMTP, REPRE NS TEENIE CIT A- a a eit
404 AGRICULTURE.
.| On these hills; however, I have not met
1 with any instance of the over-sized farms,
|| which are observable, more or less, in every
.: other department of Chalk Hills, in the
ee kingdom.
ay BEASTS OF DRAFT. These are, in-
ony| variably, Horses of the black cart breed:
Hat four of them being the usual PLow TEAM? i
|!! even on the lighter loams, where two| ae are fully sufficient. On the deep, strong,| |«‘ cledgey” lands, on the Boxley hills, in (/ Hy Kent, I have seen six such horses working,| , i with‘great difficulty; owing to causes that will be explained.
The IMPLEMENTS in use, on these 3 hills,(excepting so far as the East Kent a| practice reaches) are the more ordinary and| slain ones of English husbandry. On the bills of Surrey and West Kent, there are no drag plows, as on the Western Hills; nor any shims, broadshares, stricking plows, or nidgets, as in Middle and East Kent.
REMARKS. This not only shows the tor- pid state in which English agriculture has nit remained, for a century or centuries past, my||(the situation, climature, and soil, with re- wi; spect to the hills of East and West Kent, moet: b similar, yet their present widely va- i 1}| rying practices have been established from:
Hf time immemorial); but evidences, in a strik- et ing manner, that the practice of East and an Middle Kent is either of foreign growth,
NOt inet | farms n every in the
re, ii. breed: TEAM:! re twWo strong, ills, in orking, es that
- these Kent ry and On the 2 are no Iss nor ys, OF
the tor ure has es past vith re- t Kent, lely ya ed fom asttik- st and rowth,
EASTERN CHALK:= HILLS. 405 or owes its rise to local circumstancés, which do not, at present, exist.| The practice of the VaLe of G1 OCESTER, I have conceived to be of monastic rise;* and, in comparing the methods of harvest- ing beans, in GLocEsTERSHIRE, and the Districr of MaIpsToneg, it seemed to me probable, that they have both had the same origin.-- And it appears te be equally probable, that other points of the Kentish practice, and the various implements that are peculiar to it, may either have been in- vented by the clergy, or the lay officers of the church, who turned their attentions to rural€oncerns; or have been introduced, from time to time, by those who have been resident on the Continent; or by foreigners residing within the metropolitan diocese."
THE TURNWREST PLOW is common to these hills. But, in Surrey, it is confined to the hill lands; the lower skirts, on either side, being plowed with swing, and one- wheel plows, in use on the vale lands adja- cent: while, in Kent, the turnwrest pre- vails, on every soil and surface, to within a few miles of London.
Beside the good properties, already al- lawed this extraordinary implement, an-
* See GLOCESTERSHIRE, VOL. I. page 196. t See Vou. I. page 130.
406 AGRICULTURE.
other remains to be noticed; and which has probably introduced it, upon the hill lands of West Kent and Surrey. It is peculiarly adapted to the strong flinty soils, which prevail on the tops of these hills, from east to west: and, most especially, where such soils hang on steep surfaces.(See page 392-) In soils of such a nature, a winged, or a fin share could not work, with propriety, in any state; but, more particularly, when stif= fened by a dry season. Its singular strength, too. is well adapted to this stubborn soil.
The OUTLINE of MANAGEMENT, over the whole of this Division of Chalk Hills, is that of keeping the lands(the small portion of grass Jands excepted) in grain crops and sheep food, alternately. Corn ard sheep being the principal opjects.
The MARKETABLE crops are wheat, bar- ley, oats, some peas, and, in the eastern yarts of Kent, beans,—even on the higher, thinner lands!
The consuMPTIONAL PRODUCTS are lur- neps, tares, ley herbage, with the perennial grass, which the small portions of meadow, pasture, and sheep down afford.
The couRSE OF PRACTICE is unfixed: on the lighter lands, turneps, or tares, are the cleansing crop: on the stiffer, tares, or sum- mer fallow, for wheat, isin use: the clover crop, or other ley herbage, following either wheat or barley, according to the state of
h has lands larly rhich
e Llir- ‘ental
adow,
ds ol re the rs lover either ate of
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 407
tillage and cleanness of the lands, on which these crops are sown.
TILLAGE. The same extraordinary method of using the turnwrest plow(name- ly, that of forcing open the plow-furrow unnecessarily wide) prevails on the hills, as on the vale lands of the District of Maid- stone(see Vol. I. page 74.) On the hills of Surrey, I think it is not left quite so wide. But on the Middle-Kent hills, and in the instance mentioned under the head IMPLEMENTS, the width was near two feet, that of the plit, or plow slice, being twelve inches, and its depth eight inches. It. is no wonder, then, that, in such work, in such a soil, six horses should find full em- ployment.
Remarks. What probably adds much to the stubbornness, and gluey texture, of these strong flinty lands, is their being laid flat, with the turnwrest plow; without ridges to shoot off, or furrows to carry away, the waters which fall on them; even where this retentive impermeable soil is two or three feet, in depth! If they were plowed equally deep, as they are at present, and laid up, in convex beds, of seven or eight feet in width, with deep interfurrows, and cross trenches, to take off superfluous rain water, they would not be so liable to run together, into a close compact mass, as they are, under their present treatment.
408 AGRICULTURE.
BEFORE I lose sight of the TrURNWREST PLOW, it may not be amiss to mention the difficulty which attends the HoLpiNG of it, by those who have been habituated to com- mon plows, only; and, most especially, by those who have been accustomed to the swing plow, drawn with the horses at length, walking in the last-made. plow- furrow; and, of course, leaving an unin- terr upted sight, forward, for the plowman. It is not the intricacy, and obstruction of
the view, caused by four horses drawing dou-
ble, with two sets of splinter bars, nl a tall“ gallows,” and huge beam, rising up before the eye, nor the complexness of the implement rendering it difficult to regulate, but the aukwardness experienced in turn- ing the soil to the left, which is the chief cause of difficulty.
As I have repeatedly recommended the turnwrest plow, for absorbent soils, lying on steeply ee surfaces, it may be right to convey some hints, respecting the me- thod of holding the KENTISH PLOW, to those who may wish to make a trial of it, on lands of that description.
A plowman who has been accustomed to the swing plow, only, should first use it, as the common plow, with the wrest continued on the right-hand side; until he becomes habituated to the effect of wheels, and has made himself master of the implement, and
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 409
ry nk a Ks, the manner of regulating it. This accom= “of i plished, let him turn the wrest to the left- ts| hand side, and continue to use it as a left- ae hand plow, until he has: subdued the force ved of habit(until he has learnt to walk with mune| his left foot foremost, and to keep his eye ; at‘ on the right-hand side of the plow beam); Se od which he will effect, much sooner, by these Whit means, than he can, by beginning with it, Man. as a turnwrest plow, and changing the wrest On of at every end. And horses, that have been dou- accustomed to draw, at length, in the plow- ud a furrow, require a similar mode of training. £ up MANURES. The hill farmer’s chief de- the= pendence is on the’$HEEP FoLD. His YARD late,| MANURE, except what arises from team uM| horses, is of an inferior quality; being little chief| more than straw, trodden down by a small, \ inadequate portion of lean strawyard stock. ithe. The strong“cledgey” lands are com- lying monly CHALKED: a practice which is pro- right=|) bably of ancient date; and may account, Ba a in some sort at least, for the flints, with those_ which they are generally mixed. lands. Remark. These lands, and their natu- ral alliance to chalk, with which they appear ed to to be ordinarily connected, form a subject + which is well entitled to geological inquiry. ined SEMINATION. This varies with the ymes situation. In East and Middle Kent, the hi“stricking plow’ is in use; even on the and
)
EE——- m,=——= nl ny da — 4: ip oan ya
410 AGRICULTURE.
strong lands: while, in West Kent and Surrey, the soil is prepared for sowing, and the seed covered, with the ordinary plow and harrows; agreeably to the prevailing practice of the kingdom at large: there being, in the established practice of the western parts of these hills, no instance of cultivating, either corn, or even pulse, in rows.‘The bean and pea culture, of East and Middle Kent, may be said to be as little known, on the Hills of Surrey, as on the Wolds of Yorkshire.
In the HARVESTING of mown cory, the practice of Surrey differs, in like man- ner, from that of East Kent: each part falling in, with the practice of the vale countries, which border uponit. In Surrey, barley and oats are universally carried, im- mediately out of swath, without being tied up in bundles, and formed into piles, or shucks, as they are, in the East Kent prac- tice; and(which is highly interesting) as they are, in Devonshire and Cornwall; which are situated at an Opposite extreme of the Island: the intermediate space, of more than a hundred miles in extent, having no knowledge of the practice.
On the cuttuRE and MANAGEMENT of PARTICULAR CRops, upon these hills, little requires to be said; as they partake of the practices already described.
I and 2; and plow ailing there F the ce of e, IN Rast little n the
ORY, nali- part vale Tey, , m- "tied s, Or yrac- g) a val; Teme e, of
aving
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. AIL The TURNEP CULTURE is, in gene-
ral, well conducted: and, on the drier lands, is prevalent; being chiefly depended on, for sheep food, in the winter season.
For spring and summer food, TARES are a prevailing crop. On the Middle-Kent hills, I have seen them used, in different ways: namely, folded off, as they stood, in the GLocESTERSHIRE manner; mown, and given in racks, or cages, within a fold, on the land already cleared, as in the WILT- SHIRE practice; and, in one instance, I ob- served them pastured off, as clover, or other cultivated herbage; the flock going over them, a second time, when a fresh shoot was ready to receive them.
SAINFOIN is much more prevalent, on this, than on the other two divisions of the Chalk Hills of the southern counties. It is grown evel on the deeper clayey lands, with success. These lands having been chalked,and perhapscontain, zaturally,some
ortion of calcareous matter, the roots are led down, to the chalky substrata, and bring into action and use, what otherwise might, for ever, have lain dormant and unpro- fitable.
On the Hills of Surrey, its usual puRA~ tion is fifteen to twenty years.
Of CATTLE these hills are in a manner destitute; excepting a few cows, kept for a supply of milk and fresh butter.
© iE ee a a ee
Pen areas RE re co SEE cr tS— a nr oT ei
——
ae
ee
412 AGRICULTURE.
In BREED, they agree with the vale lands, that skirt them: as, in Kent, the Welch; so in Surrey, the Staffordshire, are most prevalent:“ Staffordshire heifers” finding their way to this the farthest limits of the Jonghorned breed: the Cuatx Hitts of SURREY, as the Heaths of Hampshire and Sussex, being a BOUNDARY, between the LONG and the MIDDLEHORNED BREEDS.
The Suffolk and the Alderney breeds are also found, on these hills.
SHEEP. It has been already conveyed, in speaking of this species of livestock, in _ the other two Divisions of the Chalk Hills, that the pEscriprions of FLocxs, in this Division, are those of rearing, and fatiing WEDDERS.‘
The BREED, formerly(as has likewise been intimated) was wholly that of the Wiit- shire and Hampshire hills. But, during the last ten years, the Sussex or South Down breed have been gaining a footing, which they aré likely to hold: as being a more natural, and, of course, a more bardy, va-~ riety; that is to say, have been less forced, from their native, or long inherited quali- ties, and habits, than what may be properly styled the watermeadow variety: both of them being, probably, from the same root. See West oF ENGLAND.
The AGE oF PURCHASE is that of lambs; whose ages vary, somewhat, with the breed;
aye ce-_~~-h7
| | | EASTERN CHALK: HILLS. 412 Tans, both breeds being bought in, about the same Melby time; namely, MicHaELMAS: when those > Most| of Wiltshire are about nine, those of Sussex Inding about six months old. Of the The pLacr OF PURCHASE, for the former, Ls of| is chiefly Weybill, for the latter, the fair of e and Lewes. N the. The Economy, or plan of management, S, of these WEDDER FLOcKs, has been, hereto= ds are fore, that of folding them, two summers, | and fatting them, the ensuing winter and eyed, spring. But the South Down breed, I be- ck, in| lieve, are more generally fatted, at two Hills, years old: turneps, hay, and cultivated her- this bage being the usual materials of fatting. ting In the sHEPHERDING of sheep, I met with little, that is rare or interesting, on this ewise Division of the Chalk Hills. Wilt- In folding, the ordinary calculation is ir the“ three sheep to a hurdle.”‘The hurdles Din of these hills(which are formed of hazel hich rods, in the wattle or fleak manner) are of different lengths; as seven to nine feet: | more 2 ner but the stakes’do not stand at more than fred seven feet and a half, on a par: so that, on be this calculation, each sheep has a space of ee eighteen or nineteen square feet: which is a opetly narrow space, for large sheep; and I have oth ot measured a fold, for two hundred six- tooth Wiltshire wedders, which was pitched | twentyfour yards, by twenty: thus allowing ys near twentytwo square feet, to each sheep. sree;,
414 AGRICULTURE.
It will be right to mention, here, as a caution to shepherds, and arable-land sheep- farmers, an alarming incident, which oc- curred to a valuable flock of sheep, some years ago, on these hills..
A field of thin chalky loam, had been sown, the preceding summer, with the seeds of weld(reseda luteola, or dyersweed), and with a small portion of turnep and rape seeds, by way of giving some sheep food, the ensuing spring, and which had been eaten off, in the beginning of April(agree- ably to a practice then not uncommon on the hills of Surrey) leaving the weld to stand on for a crop, without further care.
But the soil having been made fine and full of condition, for the crop, and the seeds of the“redweed,” or poppy(with which the ground was infected) being thereby set in action, so as to injure the crop of weld, —three hundred and fifty prime fatting wedders were turned upon it, to eat out the young herbage of the poppies; which was then(the beginning of May) ina tall gross- growing state; rising In tufts, six or eight inches high. 5
The shepherd, not being aware of the danger, left his flock, for a short time; and, on returning, found the whole struggling on the ground! many of them foaming at the mouth: all of them much swoln. Be- ing a faithful shepherd, and doating on his
ae F ats|—~.
es 4 2 sheep. Ch oe. » 5OMe
! been > seeds ), and tape ) food, | been agree On on ald to are, and seeds which by set weld, latting out the ich was | gross of elt
» of the ne; al ruggils ming at In. Be-
oon his g on hi
*
EASTERN CHALK HILLS. Ars
flock, he was seized with a degree of frenzy; and had not their owner’s son™ fortunately entered the field, at the juncture, the whole flock(worth near six hundred pounds) might have been lost. But, by rousing them with dogs, getting them upon their legs, and driving them toa high, airy ground (the weather being warm, and the field of accident hanging to the sun), only five of them suffered.
SWINE. The BREED is mostly of the large, spotted, Hampshire, or Berkshire va- riety; or a sub-variety of this breed, called the“ tunback,” from the regular curvature of the spine.
In the ratTine of swine, I met with two particulars of practice, on the hills of Surrey, which are entitled to notice, here; they being new to these Registers.
In one of them salé was mixed with their food, in the proportion of a pint to every two bushels of barley meal; under an opi- nion, that it kept them from disorders, forwarded their fatting, and added to the delicacy and flavor of the pork.
In the other, the meal or flour, whether of barley, peas, or other grain, was given to them, dry;—and this in the practice of one of the largest and best farmers, on these
* Mr. Wittiam Asupy of Woodmanston, in the Banstead quarter of the Hills of Surrey.
Oe ee
scenes se titted ee oneieaptiiateomtensteitar meciacemeeneemeent ee
44 AGRICULTURE.
hills;—under a conviction, resulting from experience, that the practice is less waste- ful, than the ordinary one of mixing water with the flour, and forming them into grout; which, in winter, is liable to be frozen, and, in summer, to be baked, to the sides of the troughs.
POULTRY. The Hills of Surrey have long possessed a breed or variety of FowLs, which are, there, called the« five-clawed breed,’ and are generally known, as Dork- ing fowls. They are of a large size, of a white or yellowish color, and are distin- guished from most or all other breeds, by a double claw, behind. They are fatted very highly and are sold at extraordinary prices; being, there, a profitable article of farm- yard produce.
END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.
> tom Wasi Water Prout: 1, and, oF the
halve OWLS, lawed Dorh- , Of a istin- bya very es: ACN
INDEX.
TO THE
érwo VOLUMES.
A
WERICULTURE, District of Maidstone, i. 50.
———————, I, of Than.ii. 8.
» Weald of Sus- sex, li. 132.
——_—_-——., District of Pet- worth, il. 170.
—, Sea Coast of
Sussex,-H. 232.
, Western Chalk Hills, ii. 318.
——_—_—__——., Southern Chalk Hills, ii. 366. —, Eastern Chalk Hills, ii. 403.
Analysis of Corkstone, i. 12. — Ragstone, i. 15.
—— Hassock, i. 16.
Boxley Chalk, i.
ee
88. N.
Subjects of Sci- ence, remarks on, i. 172,
————-~=— Marls of the Dis- trict of Petw. ii. 176. N.
Duncton Chalks, iil. wegen.
tome———.“Sussex Marble, li. 184. N.
—Houghton Chalks
il. 360.
«¢ Maam”’ Soils, ii. 361./N. Weald of Sussex,
li. 104.
>
=»West.Chalk Hills,
iil. 313.
—, Eastern Chalk Hills, 11. 397.
Bulbous Rape, or Rutabaga, or Swedish Turnep, 1. 139-
Burning Chalk with Fagots,
li. 179.
C
CALVES, the Sussex Me- thod of rearing, il. 197.
Calves, on.pasturing them without Water, ii. 199.
Canary Seed, ii. 31.
CanTERBURY, DisTRICT of, i. 396.
Cattle, District of Maid- stone, 1. 3216
, the Weald of Kent, 1.350.
sae On the Piesh.of,.1- 352. N;
» a remarkable In-
stance of Debasement, i.
, Isle of Thanet, 11.35.
——==; Heaths..of. Surrey» &c. i. 85.
, Weald of Sussex, ii.
145.: ——, Distr. of Petw-11.194 —————, Sea Coast of Sussex,
li, 240.
——., Isle of Wight, 11.281 , Remarks on Breed- ing, il. 282.
—, West Chalk Hills, if. 3 5M
, East Chalk Hills,
11, Ad DB. Chalk, the Method of Burn- ing with Fagots, rhea eta Cuack Hi ts, il. 293- , Western Di- vision of, il. 295. Southern Di- vision of, ll. 355. , Eastern Di- vision of, il. 385. sf-on_...their Structure and Formation, ii. 390.- Chalk Mills, proposed, 11. 176. Charring Gunpowder Wood, a new Method of, ii. 130
ing them ll, 19h, i
ST RICY of Maid. of Kent, sh of, j.
able Th. sement, 1, anet, iiss, of Surrey,
Sussex, ii,
etw.11,194 of Sussex,
Ht, 11.281 on Breed.
halk Hills, halk Hill,
od of Burn ts, tl 179, Western Di- a, Southern Di 1} ae Basten Di ABC,
on thelt
d Formations et “aet W 00h { Of, ih if
INDEX,
Cherries, District of Maid- stone, 1. 306.
Chesnut of Kent, i. 42. N.
Cider, District of Maidstone, 1. 317.—of Petw. ii, 192.
Clover, Dist. of Maid. i. 145.
———, on pasturing, the first Autumn, i. 147.
» Isle of Than. ii. 34.
——, Dist. of Pet. ii. 188.
Clever Seed, Remarks on Harvesting, i. 149.
Color of Sheep, Note on, ii. 346.
Compost, on forming, i. 87.
Converting Timber, ii. 127.
Coppices, Dis. of Maid. i. 40.
Coppice Plantations, Dis- trict of Maidstone, i. 43.
Coppice Woods, Weald of Sussex, ti. 128.
Cord of Kent, its Dimen- sions, 1. 42. N.
— West Suss. ii. 130. N
Corkstone, i. 12.
Couchgrass, Remarks on, as a Weed of Arable Land, li. 243.
Covenants, District of Maid- stone, 1. 28.
Course of Practice, District of Maidstone, i. 69.
—
» Isle of Thanet, ii. 12.
» Wealdof Sussex, il. 140.
» District of Petworth, ii. 174.
>o. Coast of Sussex, ii. 238.
» Western Chalk Hills, ii. 324,
» South-
era Chalk Hills, ii, 369.
Course of Practice, East Chalk Hills, ii, 406.
Cowdry Breed of Cattle, ii. 955
Cfiterions of Ripeness of Hops, i. 234.
Dryness of Hops, i. 268.
Qualities of Hops, i. Za2.
Cultivated Herbage, Isle of Thanet, ii. 34.
Distr: of Petworth, ii. 188.
Customs of the Hop Har- vest, 1. 258.
D
DAIRY, Dist. of Maidst. i. 522.
——-» Weald of Suss. ii. 146
DairyProduce, Isle of Wight, li. 283.
Deception of Vision, Note On; li. 253.
Deer, as a Species of Farm Stock, Instance of, ii. 206.
District of Maips?. i. 1.
Dist. of CanTERB. i. 396.
*‘Distsof Petw. ii. 163.
Drainage of Romn. Marsh, 1507.
Dritt Huspanpry, ge- neral Remarks on, ii. 16.
Drinking Pools of the Hills of Surrey, ii. 398.
Drying Hops, District of Maidstone, i. 263.
» Valley of Farnham, ii. 74.
Drying House, for Hops, i.
260.
Eeg
INDEX.
Drying House, District of Canterbury, 1. 409. Duncton Chalk Quarries, ii. 361. Dung,on theQualities of,i.87.
E
EASTERN Cuatx Hitts, W385.
Embankment of Romney Marsh, i. 367.
Enemies of young Hops, i. 198.:
————= grown Hops, in the Spring, 1. 225.
— Hops in Summer,
1, 228:
Hops, District of Canterbury, 1. 402.
Estates, Dist. of Maid. 1. 25.
, Weald of Sus. 11.104.
, Eastern Chalk Hills, 11. 397%
Experimenting; Instance of its Utility, il. 236.
F FALLOWING, general Re- marks on, 1. 82.
Faliows, Isle of Tha. il. 13. » Weald of Sussex, ii.
14]. Farms, Dist. of Maid. i. 51. , Weald ot Kent, i.
———~, Isle of Thanet; ii. 8. a» Wealdsof Sussex, i. 132.
, Dist.’of Petw. 11. 170 ——, Sea Coast of Sussex, N. 232.
Farms, I. of Wight, 11. 274. , West Chalk Hills, ii. 318. , South Chalk Hills lis(367% , E. Ch. Hills, 11. 403. , Remarks on the Size of, 1: 275. FaRNHAMVALLEY Of,ii.45. Practice,. general Remarks on, ii. 77. Fen Sheep, Note on, i. 380. Fences, Dist. of Maid. 1. 34. , West Chalk Hills, 11, 35. , E. Ch. Hills, 11.899. Filberts, District of Maid- stone; 1. 306. Fish, Heaths of Surrey, ii. 86 Flax Seed, on grinding, for Cattle,&cs i. 323. Fold of Wiltshire, ii. 349. Surrey, il. 413. Folding, Isle of Than. ti. 36. +o. Gh. Hills;.41.977. Fossils, Dist. of Maid. i. 10. Fowls, Dorking, ti. 416. Fruit Ladders of Kent, i. 314. Fullersearth, Distr. of Maid- stone, i. 18.
CA 1
, District of Petworth, ii. 176. N.
Furze, Method of Cultivating in Sussex, ii, 140. N.
G GATES, Weald of Suss. ii. 107. Gavelkind Tenure, its Uses, i. 26. pip, JES POON, EEG IS instanced, 1.$4.
INDEX. Gazle Wine, Methodofmak- Hedge Border, Remarks oft, ae 1. 318. ll. 101% Geological map suggested, Hedges, oars Tict of Maid- li. 358. stone, i. 35. -— Remarks on the» Weald of Sussex, ii. format ion of Romn. Mar. 106 1. 361.—, East Chalk Hills, ii, - on the 399:
Sea Coast of Sussex, ii.
on the Outlets of Rivers, ii, 356. on the Origin of Ch.Hills, ii. 391. ral Renerks. on;~ i.
Grass Pork, instance of,
N.
Banks, on their For- eee i 225;
nes, Sea Coast of Sussex,
oe a Ty, zTavel
Hi HARBLEDOWN, Valley of of, i. 398. Harvesting, Dist. of Maid 1. 97. --, Isle of Thanet, il. ey
East Ch. Hills, with oe li. 410. Hassock of Kent, i. 16. Hay Barns, Weald of Sus- Sex, ll. 105- Stack Cover, described, 1. 166. Heatus or Surrey,&c. ii. 81. Hey of Sussex and Kent, -93.N.
Hip Tiles of Surrey describ- ed, il. 397- Hoes, Valley of Farn. ii. 67 Hogs, on feeding them in Orchards, i. 312. N. Hoop Rods, ii. 129. Ho op Culture, improvements of, suggested, 1. 292. Hopkiln, District of Maid- stone, i. 261. , District of Can- terbury, i. 410. » Walley of Farn- ham, il. 74 Hops, Dist. of Maid. i- 170. » Dist. of Cant. i, 397- ——, Valley of Parn. ii. 51. , Dist. of Petw. ii. IgI. Hornbe am of Kent, i. 41. N. Horse Rake of Kent, i. 105. Horses, Dist. of Mai di 1. 320. » 1. of Thanet, ii. 34. —, Dist. of Pet. ii. 193. Houghton Quarries, il. 360. House e-Lamb Farming, Re- marks on, li. 202.
I
IMPLEMENTS, District of Maidsténe, i e 58.
, ON a PUBLIC
REPOSITORY Of, i. 66.
——,Isle of Thanet,
ii. 10.
Se er ee ae
INDEX.
Implements, Weald of Sus- Sex, cls: ——, District of Pet- worth, il. 172. —, Sea Coast of Sussex, ll. 234. » Isle of Wight,
27. ——_—————, Western Chalk Hills; ai. 320, —.SouthernChalk
Hills, ii. 368.
» Eastern Chalk Hills, ii. 404.
Improvement in the Bean Culture proposed, i. 132.
—- in harvesting
Seed Clover, i. 149.
—, by raising fresh varieties of Sainfoin, 1.156.
————-—, by charring Flop: Poles, i227,
——_——-—- of the Hop Cul- ture, suggested, i. 292.
—- in the Dist. of
Maid. considered, i. 329.
—- of Rivers, an
instance of, i. 341. N.
- in the Weald of
Kent proposed, i. 354.
Romney Marsh
suggested, i. 383.
——-, Isleof Thanet,
1.438.
—o
-, Heaths of Sur- rey,&c. i. 88.
-, Weald of Sus- sex, suggested, ii. 152.
-» by grinding Rubbish Chalk,suggested, li. 176,
ee
» by temporary Ley-, Districtof Petworth, li, 189.
Improvement, Dist. of Petw. ii. 208.
-, by running Leases, proposed, ii. 213.
—-——, Sea Coast of
Sussex, il. 244.
-, Isle of Wight,
li. 290.
-—-—, by laying out Hill Farms, West Chalk Hills, ii. 319.
———-——, West Chalk Hills, ii, 352.
————-, South Chalk Hills, ii. 380.
-, by planting
the steeps of Chalk Hills,
li. 392. N.
-, by ridging ** cledgey”’ Soils, ii. 407.
Inclosing Chalk Downs, Re- marks on, ii. 309.
Inland Navigation of Sussex, Tin 52:
Iste or THANET, il. 1,
~ Selsey, Note on, ii.
220. ———s WIGHT, li. 248.
K KENT Husbandry; Re-
marks on its Origin, ii, 404:‘ Knockholt Beeches, ii. 386. N. L LAMBS, early, District of
Petworth, ii. 199. Lanes, on Pruning, i. 20.
Of Pty, runnin
nn} In Il, 213, ast of
‘Wight,
ing out Chalk
t Chalk h Chalk
planting Uk Hills, ridging ll, 407, ns, Re. Sussex, i Ui
ote ON, Il,
ih, 248,
District 0!
7 14) 1, 20.
INDEX.
Larch recommended for the Heaths of Surrey,&¢. ii 88.
Leases, from three Years to three Years, proposed, ii. 215,
Lime Furnace, Remarks on, lag 27.
Limekiln of West Sussex, ii.
179. Limes, on Chalk and Stone, lee N
—, District of Maid- stone, 1. 89. » Weald of Kent, 1,
348.
———, Opinions on those of Chalk and Stone, in the Weald of Kent. i. 349.
=-———, on burning, with Wood and Coal, Weald of Sussex, ll. 143.
—, the Method of burn- ing, with Fagots, li. 179
Liming, a superior Method ob Ay go.
» Weald of Sussex, ii.
144. 4 Linseed, on grinding, for Cattle,&¢. 4.323.. Linshets, Remarks on, ii. 301.
Baise of Rates, Dist. of Maid. SRA
wan Corn,Methods of, 1. 107.
————- Hops,&c. Remarks on, i. 283.
Long‘Grass Meads, il. 338.
Lucern, Culture of, Dist. of Maid. i. 152.
—, Remarks on its na-
tural Soil, 1. 154.
—, I. of Thanet, ii. 33.
M
MAAM Soil of the District of Petworth, ii. 168. —-, General Re- marks on, ii. 361. Marivstonez, Districr of, t. ie Manures, District of Maid- stone, 1. 85. ,|. of Thanet, il. 14. ——-—, Val. of Farn. il. 55. -, Weald of Sussex.. Hi. 714.2. ==, dvisthick; of. Pet- 7onthrd 11,175. , Sea Coast of Sus 6X 5}115:23 Fe
5 -—, West Chalk Hills,
ll. 3@7.
———>, East; Chalk Hills, ll. 409.
Markets, District of Maid- stone, i. 114
—-, West Chalk Hills, li. 323.
Marl, a valuable discovery of, ii. 236.
Meadows, watered, West Ch. Hills, ii. 331.
Measuring Strap, forTimber described, 11. 123.
Mildew, Remarks on, 1. 431.
Mills for grinding Chalk, proposed, il..176.
, Tide, Remarks on, ii. 226.' 8
Mould of Hops, Remarks on,
1. 233. Mound Hedges recommend- ed, for Romn. Mar. 1. 386. Mules of varieties, Remarks on, ib 282,
eipaaenaee-aceiertmeneiae
INDEX.
N NIDGET, i. 63.
O
OAK; on the natural clima- ture of, 1. 216. N.
-—, Seedlings, Remarks on, iy 119, NE
Oevst House, i. 260.
Oats, Dist. of Maid. i. 125.
—, Isle of Thanet, ii. 28.
Objects, Dist. of Maid. i. 67.
, I. of Thanet, ii. ro.
, Weald of Sussex, ii.
130: ———, Dist. of Pet. ii. 173. ———, Sea Coast of Sussex,
Ne2 34,
, 1. of Wight, ti. 278. » West Chalk Hills, ii. 324. , South Chalk Hills, li. 368.
» East Ch. Hills, ii.
406.
Occupiers, District of Maid-
stone, 1. 53. , Weald of Sussex,
Pees:
i. 133%
——, District of Pet-
worth, ll. 171.
—, Sea Coast of Sus- SOX, 11;9293%
Ochre, District of Petworth, li.-1Z0:0N;
Oil Cake, a Material of fat- ting Sheep, i. 327.
Oil Mill examined, i. ORE
Orchards, District of Maid- stone, 1. 303.
» District of Pete
worth, il. 192.
Orcheston Meadows, ii. 338.
Ox Muzzles, Remarks on, 1. 347. and ii. 136,
Ox Paths, Remarks on form- ing, with broad wheels, ii. 136.
P
PEARS, District of Maid- stone, 1. 305.' Peas, Dist. of Maid. i. 133. » various Methods of Harvesting mentioned, i.
134.:
-——, Isle of Thanet, ii. 29.
Pebbles of Sand Hills, Re- marks on, ii. 167.
Pedestals, on forming, i. 33.
PerwortuH, District Of, il. 164.
Picking Hops, District of Maidstone, i. 240.
» District of Canterbury, i. 407.
» Valley of Farnham, ii. 67.
Plain Tiles, a Method of lay- ing, 11. 397.
Plan of Husbandry, District of Maidstone, i. 67.
—, Isle of
Thanet, ii. 11.
» Weald
of Sussex, ii. 139.
, District of Petworth, il. 173.
., Sea Co.
of Sussex, 11. 234.
, West
Chaik Hilis, i1. 323.
:» South Chalk Hills, it. 368.
a
AW, rks Oh,
n form. eels, ii,
Maid. 143. ods of ned, i.
ll, 29, Is, Ree
ih 3
oT of, ict of niet of ey of of lay District ie of Weald District 7
pe Wi West
South
oy
INDEX.
Plan of Husbandry, East Ch. Hills, ii, 406.
Planting Coppices, District of Maidstone, i. 43.
———- Hops, Dist. of Maid, 111Qk.
District of Canterbury, 1. 399-
Val. of Farn-
ham, il. 51.
Planting Orchards, 1. 308.
Plew Sledge, a simple one described, ii. 137.
Poles of Hops, District of Maidstone, 1. 210.
——, Dist. of Cant. 1. 400,
, Val. of Farnh. ii. 56.
Pond of the Surrey Hills, de- scribed, ll. 398.
Poppies dangerous to Sheep, il. 414.
Pork, from Grass, instance of i. 205. N.
Potatoes, Remarks on their natural Habits, 1. 142. Poultry, East Chalk Hills,
ii. 416.& Prospects, Remarks on, ii. 272%; Pruning Timber Trees, in the Weald of Sussex, il. 416. Pusiic EsTaBLISHMENT, its use, as to Implements, ¥, 00. PusiicSeMINARIES, their use, as to operations, i. 77.
,a further instance, i. 102. , another
advantage, ii, 116,
Q
QUARRIES of Duncton, ii, 361.
ee
ii. 360.
of Houghton,
R
RABBITS in a State of Nature, in the Southern Counties, il. 207.
Radish Seed, il. 31.
Ragstone of Kent, 1. 14.
Rats, a Method of Taking,
i= LTO,
, on destroying byMeans of a County Rate, 1. 113.
Rearing Calves, the Sussex Method of, il. 197.
Remarks on River and Ca- nal Navigations, 1. 21.
on Coppice Planta-
tions, 1. 44.
, general, on planting
Coppice Woods, i. 49.
- on a Pusiic Re-
posiTory of ImMPLE-
MENTS, i. 65.
— on PUBLIC SEMI-
NARIES, 1. 76.
: on a Plurality of
Implements, i. 79
— on Fallowing, i. 82.
— on forming Com-
post, i. 87.
— on Liming, 1. go.
on destroying Sod-
worms;, by Fallowing, 1.
95-
on destroying Rats, by a County Rate, 1. 113.
INDEX.
Remarks on Country Mar- kets, for fat.Cattle, i. 115.
on the Quantity of
Seed Beans, 1. 128,
— on Harvesting Beans
in Kent, and Glocesier-
shire, i. 130.
on the Nature and
Habits of the Potatoe, 1.
142.
on Harvesting Sced
Clover, i. 149.
» general, on the Per-
manency of Clover, as an
Arable Crop,.i. 151.
on the natural Soil
of Lucern, i. 154.
— on sowing Clover
with Sainfoin, i. 156.
on the Habits of
Sainfoin,on different Soils.
1. 15%
on Cultivating Sain- foin, on non-calcareous Lands, 1. 162.
—— onthe cold Soils of the District of Maidstone, i. 164,
——— on analyzing Sub-’ jects of Science, i. 172. on the Varieties of
Hops, i. 182.
on manuring Hops, i. 205.
on charring the Feet of Hop Poles, 1. 217.
on branching Hops. is 224.
— on shovelling the Intervals of Hops, i. 228. on the Mould of Hops, 1. 233.
on the Season of picking Hops, i. 237.
Remarks on. the Hop Har- vest, 1. 258.
—, general, on Hops,
as a Species of Farm Pro-
duce, i. 288.
on Grafting, i. 310.
——— general, on the Hus- bandry of the District of Maidstone, i. 328.
on Ox Muzzles, i.
eed
-———on the Formation of Marsh Lands, 1. 359.
———, geological, on the Formation of Romn. Mar. 1. 3Gr.
—— on the Herbage of Romney Marsh, i. 373.
— onthe Aphis of the
Hop, 1. 401.
— on the Causes of
Blights, 1. 404.
— on forcing Hops, i.
406.
on Straw, as a Co- vering of Buildings, ii. g. —, general, on the ' Dritit HusBanpry, li.
16.
on taking Tithes in Kind, ii. 24.
on employing Chil- dren in sheafing Corn, ii. 25
— on sodburning Sain- foin Ley, ii. 33.
———— on the Origin of the Kent Sheep, ii. 36.
on the Hop Cult. of Maidst. and Farnh. ii. 53.
on branching Hops,
ii. 60. on the spare Vines of Hops, ii. 63.
—
INDEX.
Remarks, general, on the Farnham Hop Culture, ii.
i7-
on covering infer- tile Lands, with Water, ii. 87.
on the Accumula- tion of Soils, ii. g6.~
on the Coppice Bor- ders of Sussex, il. LOT.
on Wood Clubs, ii.
¥ 114.
on pruning Tim-
ber Trees, 4. 117:
general, on the Sus-
~ sex Management of Wood- lands, 11. 118.
—— on“‘ Seedling’? Oaks, li. 13: IN;
on taking downTim-
ber Trees, ii. 125.
on the Vegetation of fallen Coppice Woods, ii. 129. N
—— on the Disposal of Woodland Produce, ii. 131
on forming Ox Paths with broad Wheels, ii. 136.
————— on the Plow Sledge of Sussex, as a simple Road- maker, ii. 138.
-on Wood and Coal burnt Limes, Weald of Sussex, li. 143.
, on the large Pebbles of the Sands of Sussex, ii. 167.
on Treading the Soil with the Plow‘Team, ii.
175°
on grinding Chalk, il. 176.
on temporary Leys, Dist, of Petw. ii. 189.
Remarks on the Field and House-Lamb Husbandry, il. 202.
on Swine, as a Spe-
cies. of pasture Stock, il.
205.
, geological, on the Sea Coast of Suss. ii. 222. on the Formation.of Beach Banks, ii. 225.
on Tide and River Mills, ii. 229.
on the Utility of Sci- ence, in Agriculture, ii. 237
on Swine, as a Spe- cies of Pasture Stock, il. 242.
on Couchgrass, as a Weed of arable Land, iL 243.
on Rural Scenery, ii. 272.
on the Size of Farms, 1ss27'5<
on Breeding, 1i. 282. on Surveying a Dis- trict, 11.:287.7 Ni
on the artificial Sur- face of the Chalk Hills, ii. 301.
on inclosing Chalk- Down Lands, ii. 309. on Beech Hedges, ii,
316.
on planting Coppice Belts, on Chalk Hills, ii. 318.
on the Lime Fur-
nace, ll. 327.
on the want of Sain- foin, on the West Chalk Hills, ii. 329.
—— on the Origin of
EAE aI
sei
| f i a : q
en Sg ee
INDEX.
Sorming Water Meadows,
il, 342 on Town Flocks, ii,
350.
3 geological, on the Outlets of Rivers, ii. 356. on Maam Soils, ii.
361.
on the Structure and Formation of Chalk Hills, ll, 3.90.
on Bell Teams, ii.
393.
on Chalky Soils be-
ing kept open, i. 394,
: on the Hedges of the
East. Ch. Hills, if. 399.
on the Treatment of
Hedges, on the Hills of
Surrey, ii, 400.
» general, on.‘esta-
blished Practices, and the
Caution requisite in mak-
ing Improvements, ii. 401.
on present Practices, and the Origin of that of Kent, ii. 404.
—— on the Stubbornness of««Cledgey”’ Soils;ii.407.
on holding the Turn-
wrest Plow, ii. 408.
on** Cledge,”? a¥ al- lied to Chalk, ii. 409.
Ripeness of Hops, Criterions Of; 1.234.
River Navigations, Remarks on, i. 21.
Rivers, Instance of Improve- ment of, 1. 341. N.
Roads, Distr. of Maid. i. 20.
»‘Weald of Kent, i.
343:
» Romn. Mar. i. 365. w———, Isle of Than. ii. 6.
Roads, Weald of Sus. ii. 98. , Sea Coast of Sussex, ll. 229. ———, I. of Wight, it: 264. » W.Ch. Hills, fi. 308 —,E. Ch. Hills, ii. 393. Road-smoother, a simple one, in Sussex, ii. 138. Romney Marsh, i. 356. Rye Herbage, District of Petworth, ii. 188.
S
SAINFOIN, Culture of, Dis- trict of Maidstone, i. 155.
Sainfoin, on raising fresh Varieties of, i. 156.
» On raising it with
Clover, i. 156.
, its Habits, on dif-
ferent Soils, i. 159,&c.
» Isle of Than. ii..31.
» On uncalcareous Sand, District of Petworth, fil. 189.
, 1. of Wight! ii. 280. —., West Chalk Hills, ii.
as
> S. Ch. Hills, ii. 381. —, E. Ch. Hills, ii. 418.
Sanderstead Hill, View from, ii. 396.
Scenery, Remarks on, ii. 272.
Sea Coast of Suss. ii. 219.
Sea Fence, W. Suss. ii. 223.
Sea Mud, its Use as a Mae nure, i. 374. N.
Sea Wall of Romney, i. 3676
Seedling Oaks, Remarks on, il, 119. N,
Semination, District of Maid-~ stone, i. gl.
i 68,
Sussey,
I, 264,
Th 308
i* 393. le one,
56. tt of
INDEX.
Semination, I. of Than.ii.15. -, East Chalk Hills,
ll. 409.
Servants, District of Maid- stone, 1. 55-
> on Changing, Sea
Coast of Sussex, 11, 233.
,Isleof Wight, ii. 276.
Sheép, Dist. of Maid. i. A205. , Romn. Mar. i. 378.
, Isle of Than. il. 35.
-——, Heaths of Surrey,
&c. li. 86. —, Weald of Sussex, il.
146.
w———, District of Petworth, ll. 199.
~—a—-——, Sea Coast of Sussex, li. 241.
——, Isleof Wight, ii. 284. a, W Ch. Hills, ii. 3.45. , S. Ch. Hills, ii. 369. 7h. Ch. Bills sii. 412.
, on their natural Food, i. 326. N. , on their grazing
steep Surfaces, ii. 302. N.
, suflated, by Poppies li, 414.
Sheep Downs, West Chalk Hills, ii. 330.
Peant
* South Chalk Hills, on breaking up, li.
383. Sheepfold, West Chalk Hills,
il. 349: » East Chalk Hillis,
li. 413. Sheep Rack of Wiltshire, ii.
349-
Shepherd’s Crook of Sussex, li, 380.
Dog of Sussex, 11.
380,
aon z~
Shims, Isle of Thanet, it. 10,
Shucks of Kent described, i. 103:
Size of Farms, Remarks on, i. 278
Sliding Yoke of Suss. li, 138.
Sodburning, in Wood! i. 41.
a Sainfoin Ley,
il. Bie
Soto, Dist. of Maid. i.g3. ———-, an Enemy of
young Hops, i. 199.
Soils, District of Maidstone, i. 8. andi. 71
——, Weald of Kent, i. 342.
——, Romn. Marsh, i. 361.
——, Distr. of Cant. i. 398.
—-, Isle of Thanet, il. 5.
=——, Valley of Farnh. 11. 49.
, of the Heaths of Sure rey,&c. il. 84.
——, oe of Suss. il. 96.
, Distr. of Petw, ii. 166.
wess,. Ged COdst“er SUSSEX; ii, 221.
—, Isle of Wight, ii. 256.
==, Wo Ch, fils, 0. 303.
—e 9. CH Pius; Ie 359.
soe BE. Ch. falls, ii. 30%;
——, on their Accumula- tion, li. 96.
South-Down Sheep— Ede"liz 37 Ts
SouTHERN Diets of Chalk Hills, ii. 355.
Sparrow Traps described, i
6
Spayed Mare, an Instance of, ii, 193»
Spearwort, as a Name of the Rot of Sheep, 1. 375. N. Stack Guard of Kent, de-
scribed, i, 166.
SS ee
INDEX.
Stallions, gratis, an Instance of, ii. 193.
State of Husbandry, District of Maidstone. i. 328.
— 5 isle OF Thanet, ii. 37.
» Weald
of Sussex, ii. 147.
» Dist. of
Petworth, ii. 208.
» Sea Co. of Sussex, ii. 243.
—» Isle of Wight, ii. 285.
meV.(eh,
Fiills, ii. ge7,
Strap, for measuring Tim- ber, ii, 12g.
Stricking, Operation of,i.118.
Stricking Plow, i. 63.
Stubble Rake of Kent, i. 105.
Succession, District of Maid-
stone, i, 69.
, 1. of Than. ii. 12. —, Weald of Sussex, ll. 140.
—, District of Pet- worth, il. 174.
—, Sea Coast of Sus- SEX, 11..238.
» West Chalk Hills,
li. 324.
—, East Chalk Hills li, 406.
Sugar Bakers’ Lime, i. 13.N.
Sulphur, as a Coloring of Hops, i. 266.
Surface, artificial, Remarks on, il. 301.
Sussex, WEALD Of, ii. 92.
Swine, District of Maidstone, 1. 424h
-——-, Isle of Thanet, ii. Bc.
~——-, Dist. of Petw. ii, 203.
Swine, a Species of pasturing Stock, ii. 203.
——-, Sea Coast of Sussex, ll. 242,
——-, Remarks on, as a Spe- cies of Pasture Stock, ii. 242.
——-, E. Ch. Hills, ti, 415.
T
TALLY of Hop. Planters Dist. of Maidstone, i. 252.
——., Dist. of Canter. i. 409.
—— of Farnham, ii. 72s
Tares, Culture of, District of Maidstone, i. 137.
» E. Ch. Hills, ii. arr.
THaner, Ise of, ii. 1.
Thatch, Remarks on, ii. g-
Tide Mills, Remarks on, ii. 225.
Tillage, District of Maid- stone, i. 73:
» Isle of Than. ii. 14.
———, Weald of Sus. ii. 141.
» Dist. of Petw. ii.174.
————, Sea Coast of Sussex, Wy 236:
———.,, West Chalk Hills, ii. B26,
,£. Ch. Hills, ii. 407.
Timber Trees, Remarks on taking down, ii. 125.
Tithe, Remarks on taking in Kind, ii. 24.
Town Flocks of Wilts, ii.350,
Town Herds, Wilts, ii. 351.
Training Woods, Weald of Sussex, ii. F13.
Turneps, District of Maid-|
stone, i. 139.; ————-, Isle of Than. ii. 30.
anters | 252, . 409, De
istrict
All, I, 1,9, Ni, li.
Maid-
ii, 14. We 14t i114. Sussex,
ills
IL, 407. rks on
>}: king in
INDEX.
Turneps, Eastern Ch, Hills, ATE;
Turnwrest Plow, 1. 60.
, on its Ori- gin and Use, il. 392.
» further on its good Qualities, ii. 405. » Remarks on holding, ii, 408.
V
VALLEY of Farnuam, li. 45.
Vegetation of Stubwood, Re- marks on, ii. 129. N.
Ventilation, Remarks on, i. 84.
Vermin, Dist. of Maid. 1.110.
Vermin Trap described, i. 113.
Views, from Boxley Hills, i. 23.
ee Isle of Thanet, ii. 7.
——-, Isle of Wight, ii. 268.
——-, Wilts Hills, ii. 311.
- from the West Downs of Sussex, ii. 364.
-———- from Sanderstead Hill, ii, 396.
W
WAGGON PATHS pro- posed, for the Weald of Sussex, li. 155.
Walnut Trees of extraordi- nary Size, i. 304. N.
Water Meads, West Chalk Hills, 11. 331.
Wearp of Kent, i. 335.
WEALD of Sussex, il. 92.
Wesr. Cu. Hitts, il. 295.
Westminster Abbey built with Kentish Stone, i. 13.
Wheat, Dist. of Maid. i. 116.
—, Isle.of Than. ii. 26.
> Dist, Of Pet. 1387.
———, Sea Coast of Sussex, il. 238.
——, West Chalk Hills, i. 328.
Wicur,[ste of, ii. 248.
Wild of Kent and Sus. i. 335.
Wireworm, District of Maid- stone, 1, 93.
—, an Enemy of young Hops, i. 199.
Wood Clubs, Remarks on, li, 114.
Woodlands, Distr. of Maid- stone, 1. 39.
» Weald of Kent,
i. 346.°
—, Weald of Sus-
sex, li, 108.
—, West Chalk Hills, ii. 317.
——_————, Southern Chalk Hills, ii. 365.
ane, Rastern Chalks Hills, ii. 401.
Woods, on Training, ii. 113.
Wool of Romney Marsh, 1. 378,-N.
Woolen Rags, a Manure of Hops, i, 202.
x
YOKE, sliding, described, i. 138.
ee ern nee Cam NL RE Rs IR ga aes RE
— a
| | : }
ten Ea Vabee : Pe ne
-? 2 ors 2
eas ae
-} 7 a ee a a er per apy ao ee a EE
oa
=
irate
ht
>— = ane
i futh wAbonachi
0 cm
& “ay 1 es Fe eee ee- EE a SS eS EOS So re esa oO,|
~ Colour& Grey Control Chart anes
Blue Cyan Green Yellow Red Magenta White me GleyRianeen= Greys Grey 3 Grey 4 Black